UKC

Will be spending time in Leicestershire on and off while my youngest settles into a new job. I have a 1993 guide to Leicestershire Climbs and wonder how many of the crags described still have access and how good is the climbing.
Any folk have any ideas/advice?

In reply to bonebag:

Your original guide with updates in red: http://www.leicesterclimbs.f9.co.uk/

Maybe some newer stuff here: http://www.leicestershireclimbs.co.uk/ with links to modern social media.

In reply to bonebag:

Just drive an extra hour to the peak or churnet Leicestershire is sh*t (apart from some esoteric bouldering venues if you like that sort of thing or the brand which is very weird but ace).

In reply to bonebag:

Access is an ongoing issue at most of the Leics crags but there's plenty that's worth a look!

Slawston Bridge was one of my favourite ways to spend a summers evening when I was at Uni in Leicester, it's way better than going down the wall.

Craig Buddon is cool, access sketchy but keep a low profile and it's ok.

The Brand is absolutely brilliant- go there! Feels so weird ringing to get permission but they're lovely people and the house and garden are worth the trip by themselves.

Hangingstone Quarry has great climbing but a terrible access situation. Once you're in the quarry you'll never get caught but crossing the farmers field is a bit nerve racking. Try not to walk down the road to the crag obviously looking like a climber!

If you boulder hard Forest Rock is great and no access issues. Very limited below V6/7 though.

Hope you enjoy it!

In reply to bonebag:

As a new(ish) Leicester local, I think the two answers above have it pretty well summarised.

If it rains, then climbing wall wise Loughborough bouldering wall is well worth the drive. There is a so-so wall in Beaumont Leys Leisure Centre (just North of Leicester city centre) and there is also now a brand new wall just south of the city centre: http://apeindex.rocks/. I went for the first time yesterday and thought it was ace, although it is still a work-in-progress.

Enjoy Leicestershire!

In reply to bonebag:

I've had some fun times bumbling around on Beacon Hill, on that weird soapy rock.

In reply to spidermonkey09:


I nearly got shot making that journey! Not intentionally, but I was bushwhacking through the little forested bit and the farmer was out shooting rabbits at the time.

In reply to bonebag:

Lots of nice little venues perfect for an evening out, the boulders around the Cademan Wood area make for a great evening of getting lost in picturesque surroundings. So quality MTB routes round there as well if you are in to it.

In reply to bonebag:

I used to like Markefield, not sure about access though, was a long time ago.

In reply to JimmAwelon:

Thanks Jimm. Will take a look at these.

In reply to bonebag:

Thanks guys. So many of you with lots of positive info. Looking forward to getting out to see for myself : )

In reply to bonebag:

There's that big newish slate quarry. I'm sure someone knows it's name.

In reply to silo:

Charnwood Quarry

Perhaps?

In reply to bonebag:
I would highly recommend Slawston bridge, like already said on a nice warm evening, it's an great little place.

The rest of the rock in Leicestershire is a bit particular but worth trying out. There are some good things out there and it's worth a shot before you bolt it up North bound.

And despite the lack of quantity it is possible to boulder, sport and trad climb all within reasonable walking distance of one another.

In reply to Emilio Bachini:

Thanks Emilio.

In reply to Emilio Bachini:

The pub in the village is also good for beer and food.