UKC

Currently sat on the ferry back from France after 2 weeks climbing and exploring the Languedoc region.

Finally got around to a sport multipitch which I think we managed fairly well with no rope tangles and a quick turn around (vital when the rock was starting to get to hot to touch!)

We set ourselves up each with a sling attached to 3 screw gates, one using a fig 8 on bight which is attached to the belay loop. The other two are on the remaining loops and attached to a gear loop out of the way while climbing. These two can then be quickly attached to the belay anchor. The second was also set up with a longer sling so that at the belay point they were out of the way for the leader to set off climbing.
Any thoughts on this setup? There seems to be a lot of different methods out there.

In reply to samnbuk:

That works and is pretty safe - how were you belaying the second up? A good variation is to set-up as you describe, except use the knot in the sling as your master point. You put your belay plate into this in guide mode, and clip into it yourself using a lanyard. Your second can come up, sit on the plate, give you their plate so you can put them on lead and then set off, taking your plate with them to return the favour at the next stance. Works OK for leading in blocks too, as you can belay without the rope enabling a quick turn-over.

In reply to samnbuk:

How about a quickdraw to the bolt, clip it and turn into a clove hitch. Extra biner to the other bolt and belay device there in guide mode. When the second arrives to the belay, another draw to a bolt and clove hitch.

After which either can start the next pitch.

Those really safety focused could use lockin' biners instead of the draws. And if no tat or chain between the anchor bolts, well a quickdraw could be used to link the 2.

In reply to samnbuk:
Bin the screwgates. Just carry one for your abseil device. Light wire gate on a cowstail into first bolt. Then either clove hitch rope onto other bolt with qd or join the bolts together with a quickdraw. I quite like the second set up as you can belay direct off the second bolt. It's fast, simple and safe.

In reply to samnbuk:
Sounds like that much of the time the belayer would either have slack in the sling to her belay loop, or be uncomfortably hanging from it. But maybe I've read it wrong. I would have used the rope to connect the belayer to the sling. I also couldn't quite see how one could lead in blocks unless the bolt hangers could take two screw gates (the leader's and the second's) - again misreading by me.

I often use a belay rig - a sling with all carabiners AND the reverso hanging from it. Most of the time banshee-style using a bowline on a bight for the "powerpoint" off the lower bolt, and a clove in the sling for the upper bolt. This is super quick and leading in blocks is easy.

Photos here: http://people.bath.ac.uk/dac33/high/6TheBelay.htm#bansheebelays

In reply to samnbuk:

Anything that simply and securely fixes you to the chains is fine. Personally I prefer the rope or occasionally quickdraws, depends what the plan and set up is but the detail doesn't matter a jot so long as it's safe and you're happy with it.
jk

In reply to samnbuk:

Quickdraw on each bolt, clove hitch each with a bight of rope between, overhand knot and screwgate on the bight on which goes the gri-gri to belay the second.....sorted.

In reply to samnbuk:

I think the easiest thing you can do to keep quick whilst sport climbing is have your second follow through into the next pitch. When they get to your belay point you just chuck them any quickdraws you still have and they keep climbing.

In reply to samnbuk:

Most recently I used the rope for anchors. I clove hitch onto both bolts and leave a some slack rope between the bolts. I tie a figure of eight on a bite in the slack. I attached the belay device to the figure of eight and belay the second up in guide mode. Obviously when swapping leads. But I've used slings before. I'm not sure the time is very significant for me whichever method I use, the vast majority of the time will be spent climbing, and possibly abseiling.