In reply to andyt33:
Reading this thread, I get the impression that your particular approach to climbing and coaching might not suit everyone, it seems very focused on only certain aspects that aren't critical for everyone.
I had a really good session with a coach, and this is how it went:
He asked me what my goals were; I said I wanted to be doing the big E3s on Gogarth the coming summer. Not bothered about sport or bouldering, indoors for training only. I wanted to be able to get the most out indoor training to enable me to do big, scary routes that require having a fair bit in reserve. I was climbing E2 at the time.
This lad was a great all-round climber IMO. He'd done stacks of E5s onsight (maybe E6? not sure about headpointing), 8a or more on sport, and had a degree in sports science. He's done most or all of the routes I was on about, and knew what was involved: enough stamina to hang on to greasy holds while fiddling in awkward gear, and be able to carry on doing this for about an hour with the only the odd rest here and there. For someone who can already boulder V6, campusing etc ain't going to help.
The coach spent some time with me in the bouldering wall, observing technique and strength, and said: your strength's fine and your technique's good (I'd been climbing about a decade) - you need to get fit (and keep up your strength). Then we spent some time in the lead wall doing stamina drills, with him explaining the purpose and assessing what level I was at. He put together a report with an outline training plan (he'd have done a week-by-week plan with a review session for more money), which I followed and got loads out of training that winter.
As it happens, the following summer, although I wasn't working, it rained every f*cking day, I got nothing done and my training went down the toilet. But the following year I used what I'd learnt, and now I've done all the target routes and a bunch of E4s, and I think the indoor training (which is very sporadic and pretty relaxed) has really helped.
What I'm trying to get across is that not everyone is bothered about the level of absolute difficulty they can achieve. I find sport climbing soul destroying, I just can't handle the boredom and frustration of falling off the same holds over and over again. But even for someone like me, a good coach can help me reach my goals of climbing harder - move up from E4 to E5 onsight.
Hope that's useful.
Post edited at 11:56