UKC

Hi,

A couple of years ago I did a new route in Lester Mill quarry (direct up the wall between 10metre crack and On Reflection). I must have briefly mentioned it to Les, then promptly forgot about it.

On getting the new guide I was chuffed to see it has been put in as Tom's Route HVS 5a and showed this off to a mate! He went to repeat it, had a nightmare and said it was E2 5c. I went back and repeated it yesterday and thought maybe in between the two!

Anyone else done it? I'd be keen to know how far out my guess of a grade is! And it's well worth a visit to do... It's a nice, steep, crimpy face. Perfectly clean (never really gets dirty) and currently quite chalked up. Good rock and good (slightly spaced) gear. Good for a star (probably just loses a second star by being slightly eliminate, although it doesn't feel that escapable when you're on it).

Let me know what you think if you get on it.

Cheers. T

In reply to Tom Green:

Good effort! Don't hear of many people climbing in Lester Mill.

I've linked to your thread in the LRR facebook page - might generate some interest...

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1566324270279682/

In reply to robin mueller:

Thanks Robin.

There must have been a bit of recent action at lester mill, as there were good tracks in the bracken from several key top-out areas. A bit of chalk on pagan too.

Obviously I'm biased, but I'd say it's worth a visit to LM just to do 'Toms route' (I'll have to think of a better name!). It's such a great piece of rock: perma-clean, great holds, bright orange for the photos!

I reckon you'll know the bit of rock the route's on. It's literally just round the corner from the Papercut bloc. (Is that your chalk on the project line? Has the link up of those awful slopey crimps been done? I had a feel of them and could barely hold them!)

In reply to Tom Green:



That's good to hear. Perhaps the new guidebook is helping.


Yeah, lots of the rock on the upper tier looks nice, and is mostly clean and dry. I always thought this section should be more popular, but I think people get put off by evil wall. Did you get any pics then?


Chalked up by a friend of mine - he climbed the project recently at 8A. We've done a few more lines here and there. I'll put details on the web at some point. Lester Mill keeps giving!