UKC

Anyone got experience of climbing the rock/snow routes in Toubkal region? Winter/spring time

In reply to Wildabeast:

In terms of alpine routes, we did South West (Ouanoums) Ridge (winter) (AD+) between the major peaks and ice routes, which in late January last year was basically in summer condition - no snow or ice on the rock sections, but some on the walking/scrambling sections between the proper pitches. It was an excellent experience, and I'd really recommend it - quite a big day for two punters (probably 12 or so hours), with I think six proper pitches of 20-40 metres; if I remember right, two were around VDiff, three were Severe-ish, and the crux corner pitch was stiff-ish HS (but possible to avoid). Plenty of info on it (and similar routes, and basically anything else you might want to do) in Des Clark's 'Mountaineering in the Moroccan High Atlas'.

In reply to Wildabeast:

We did the Ikhibi Sud (Tourist Route) on Toubkal and Ouanoukrim in the same week a few years back. The tourist route is a slog with little technical difficulty. However it was covered in snow and ice and it took longer than the 3 hour ascent in the guide. The freezing near gale force wind on the summit crest focused the mind. The view to the Sahara is just wonderful;the 'Trig Point' is horrendous!
Ouanoukrim is , in my opinion, the better of the two hills. It has a grade 1 (scots winter) ridge that approaches the summit and we had solid corniced snow to get there. It was brilliant! As good as the hills around Saas Fe and Saas Grund.
The snow levels gave us a wake up call, it was January, and it was Afrika for heavens sake. I have never been as cold as I was on Toubkal and I've done a lot in winter in Scotland and the Alps.
If you can find World Mountaineering by Mitchell Beasley Hamish Browns account on page 272 is realistic.
I am not rock and ice climber rather a mountaineer. I don't carry ice screws or technical rock climbing gear but do carry a rope, slings, helmet etc. The Scottish grade 1 is my subjective grade given the altitude, ice and snow. The CAF refuge is good and compares reasonably with with others in the Alps, but man it was cold. Check out the Berber guides they are good and not expensive. Treat with respect and enjoy!

In reply to Alan Cameron:

Thanks for your insight that is exactly what I was looking to hear about. How did you find the approach conditions, to hut from imlil and also from hut to start of routes?

When you mention cold....are we talking 4 season bags here and leggings under softshells type outfit?

In reply to Droyd:

Great thanks for that, already ordered the book!

In reply to Wildabeast:

Did the North-East Ridge a few years back at the end of March. Great fun on my own, but wish I'd taken a longer rope (only took a skinny 30m) as a few of the ab's were longer than I'd expected. It's a good fun outing.

The hardest bit I found was trying to get a muleteer to take my kit to the beginning of the route at Tizi n Tagharat - "You don't want to go there. The tourists always go here" (directing me to the Refuges).

In reply to Lil_Pete:

Hey, so it's rated an AD... Any information about the pitches? Is it mixed or just a rock route...thanks

In reply to
The walk in from Imlil is laborious. There are no technical difficulties but the ground conditions, mixed ice, snow and rock combined with the rise in altitude made it shall we say taxing. Take, if you can cope with aspirin a bottle of 75mg pills. One a day was a god send for me. They were recommended by two skiers at the hut. I struggle with altitude. My advice is take the 4 season bag it's better to be too hot than too cold. Take your leggings they weigh nowt and make your judgement from the hut. The hut has a room for clients with one open fire and we moved around the room on a conveyor belt system. We all had duvets on.
As for the conditions I can only comment on what it was like when we were there. I do not know if it was typical. It was as cold as anything that I have experienced in Scotland in winter and I have been going there for years and years.......and years! But modern gear is light weight and fabulous and being prepared weighs nothing 'prepare for the best, expect the worst'. Go to a cash machine in Marrakech and make sure you have plenty of dosh!
I hope you get there and have a great trip. We had a fabulous time and are planning a return. One minute freezing looking at the Sahara and within hours sitting in shorts and tee shirt drinking tea outside in Marrakech. Go to the garden of Yves St Laurent it's a WOW.