/ A "what did you climb this weekend?" thread

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TobyA on 16 Oct 2016
The keen cyclists no longer seem to be doing the "where did you ride this weekend?" threads that were popular last year or the year before, but maybe we should try again some "what did you climb this weekend?" threads which I started in the past mainly because it seemed silly that cyclists were better at reporting their activity on a climbing website than climbers were!

So basically, who climbed what this weekend? Maybe it will give people some inspiration for next weekend and keep keenness levels up as we head towards winter.

I went to Stanage yesterday as friends were coming up with a bunch of people from their club. They, for various reasons, were just bouldering. I half heartedly bouldered a bit but really wanted to tick some routes so went for a wander along the edge on my own. I ticked a couple obscure micro routes that I hadn't even noticed before Fun Solo (HS 4b) and Solo Fun (HS 4b), started up Mercury Crack (VD) - some interesting offwidthing for the vdiff climber, but the top out was just as green and damp as the lower bit - so slithered carefully back down the offwidthy bits and retreated. I did a couple of unstarred severes next to Fina which were OK before going back down to the boulders to chat with my friends. There I got a tip off that there was someone looking for a partner nearby, so I went introduced myself to Pete and his friends and we teamed up for a few routes. I led Wall End Flake Crack (VS 4c), then I led Outlook Crack (VS 4c) which again I hadn't done before - short but tough, a nice little route. A much more productive day than I had first imagined and the weather was good.
deacondeacon - on 16 Oct 2016
In reply to TobyA:
That's a great bit of crag. The routes tend to be quieter but there's some real beauties. You've probably already done them but the bits on Paradise Wall are great.

I went to Almscliffe and had a great day. Pretty much perfect conditions for grit (although a bit mild for bouldering).
Wall Of Horrors- just brilliant, pumper than I was expecting and harder than I was expecting.
Clematis- an E2 with a desperate offwidth traverse. I'm sure locals climb it better than my 'squirming along on my belly chicken winging the crack' technique.
Black Wall eliminate- another E2 which was great but I used all my medium cams early and had to do a spooky traverse with no gear.
Syretts Roof- probably the best climb of the day. A boulder problem that's just the right height to give a buzz without it being dangerous, with a really cool heel at head height Rockover followed by a spooky lurch for a good jug. Just ace.
Post edited at 14:35
zimpara - on 16 Oct 2016
In reply to TobyA:

Climbed out from under my bridge and at 2100hrs I'm going to climb back under it.
Chris Craggs - on 16 Oct 2016
In reply to TobyA:

We I have been laid low with a bug for a week brought out to the Ariège by a visitor so I was happy to get out to Auzat today and tick seven routes 4+ to 6a+. Bolted granite - naughty but nice,

Chris
TobyA on 16 Oct 2016
In reply to deacondeacon:

I remember actually having a not very serious go at Syretts Roof years back I actually surprised myself getting out to the lip but remember having neither the puff or the bravery to try very hard to get established above it. Not sure anyone even had bouldering mats back then but you're not very high up if you let your legs swing off first at that point are you?
mrphilipoldham - on 16 Oct 2016
In reply to TobyA:

Castle Naze

Just a quick trip out for an hour but I soloed everything that was dry on the south buttress.

I think the rain that swept by mid morning put a lot of people off but the rock was bone dry afte lunch, aside in chimneys or where obviously green and out of the wind/sun. Most of the crag was climable and the weather decent.
cb294 - on 16 Oct 2016
In reply to TobyA:

Nothing, wasted all weekend working....

CB
Cheese Monkey - on 16 Oct 2016
In reply to TobyA:

Knights climb at Cheddar on Friday, down Box mine Saturday, Gull Rock on culm coast today until it rained
olddirtydoggy - on 16 Oct 2016
In reply to TobyA:

Long John's stride butresses in Wharncliffe crags. Great little isolated section but very green until we cleaned a couple of routes up. Today we were climbing the walls as it rained till early afternoon.
ElliottB - on 16 Oct 2016
In reply to TobyA:

Spent Saturday afternoon at Windgather Rocks, repeating a couple of routes that I first did in 2013 (i think). Soloing a couple more and finally plucking up courage to head over to tackle my first E1 (South Buttress Arete Direct (E1 5b)). Very happy with that afternoons climbing, nice to feel like I'm making some progress with my head game.
deacondeacon - on 16 Oct 2016
In reply to TobyA:

>you're not very high up if you let your legs swing off first at that point are you?

No you're still Nice and low at that point.
Tbh the whole problem isn't too high it's just that when you fall off the crux you're in an awkward bunched position.

deacondeacon - on 16 Oct 2016
In reply to olddirtydoggy:

A great bit of crag. Did you see what sort of condition Autumn Wall was in?
TobyA on 16 Oct 2016
In reply to olddirtydoggy:

I've got to get down the far end of Wharncliffe sometime - there is one route on this list http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1059 which I think is down that way and I want to try.
spenser - on 16 Oct 2016
In reply to TobyA:

Went to the climbing festival in Reiff, got 5 routes done in the dreek/ rain yesterday, went to the Ceilidh last night, only got one route in before having to head back today as my car decided to play silly buggers and have both of my headlamp bulbs blow simultaneously when I tried to leave for the Ceilidh last night and I couldn't figure out what was wrong!
Ended up tagging along with some students from Fort William, decent crowd.
TobyA on 16 Oct 2016
In reply to cb294:

I was going to give that a dislike, but what I really mean is "bummer - better luck next weekend." In my new job I sympathise with how much having to work all weekend sucks.
Cake on 16 Oct 2016
In reply to TobyA:

I climbed 50 stars at Stanage on Saturday with my mate and some help at the beginning from another. We started off with the intention of doing all the 3 star HVSs at Stanage which was a very tall order, what with a bit of rain and being unfit with no plan. We gave that up four HVSs in (Eliminator, Queersville, Whillan's Pendum ... and Robin Hood's Innominate with Harding's Finish) and went for our back-up challenge with only 38 stars to go. We did at least two more HVSs, and a bunch of other three star routes as well as a few minor solos that got stars. I led the last route, Black Hawk Hell Crack, in the dark and then we were done. Good times
TobyA on 16 Oct 2016
In reply to spenser:

I was in Reiff about 7 weeks ago, first time in best part of 20 years, and had a great couple of days. When I saw about the festival I was really tempted to try and go, but its 495 miles each way and 9hrs driving so I guess was never really that realistic! When we were there they had a sort of after party in the pub for people who had been playing at the Summer Isles Festival so it was some fantastic ceilidh music too, but nobody actually danced. Hope the ceilidh made up for the not so great weather!
TobyA on 16 Oct 2016
In reply to Cake:

Was it you guys who I chatted with when you were on Tower Crack? If so did you get up it in the end? It sounded like a mighty challenge!
olddirtydoggy - on 16 Oct 2016
In reply to deacondeacon:

Saw somebody climb it and he said it was "absolutely wonderful". It's facing the right way to stay clean so its good most of the year. He described the moves as rather crimpy in places. Looked very hard.
spenser - on 16 Oct 2016
In reply to TobyA:

Pirates of Coigach (HS 4a) made up for the not so great weather, it's got a firm place in my top 20 routes now!
The Ceilidh was cracking, it was quite obvious that I was an englishman who'd found himself in Scotland though, I'm god awful at Ceilidh dancing!
olddirtydoggy - on 16 Oct 2016
In reply to TobyA:

I'd like to know exactly where that route is as it's not in the book. Is there some magic oracle who can reveal its location?
LakesWinter on 16 Oct 2016
In reply to TobyA:

That was us yes, I was belaying mr Cake, he got very very close, twice but not this time. We were many steep routes in by then, as a whole it was an awesome day out.
veteye on 16 Oct 2016
In reply to cb294:

I also was working, on Saturday. Then today I was trying to catch up with study(yes I know that I'm probably mad at my age) so read lecture notes, watched a webinar of over an hour long, and also a videoed practical lecture. Then this afternoon and evening I have done two sets of compulsory multi-choice questions online, as well as reading bits from at least four different text books.At least now I feel better for having got that work done.
In between I went for a run just as it was moving into dusk, at Rutland water. Now there is a lovely full moon.
Last Sunday I went to Frogett and climbed with Nick off here for 2-3 hours, and did not climb so well, probably due to being too tired. So at times over the weekend I have dreamed of climbing again and better at Frogett. I used to go a lot to Frogett, but have not been for a few years.
Misha - on 16 Oct 2016
In reply to TobyA:
Nothing. Went to a crag today, couldn't do one of the easiest routes there. Looking forward to winter climbing though.
Garston - on 16 Oct 2016
In reply to TobyA:

Fantastic Saturday in the Moelwyns climbing chic and Kirkus climb direct. Rain all the way there then blue sky and sun when we got there. Great fun, nice and easy, just brilliant to be in the mountains.
TobyA on 16 Oct 2016
In reply to olddirtydoggy:

Are you using the old Rockfax? It's got to be in the BMC guide as they have it in their list in that book, although I don't think I've actually looked.
TobyA on 16 Oct 2016
In reply to LakesWinter:

Top effort, and nice to meet you after chatting here many times down the years even if we didn't actually realise it then! When I went round the corner, Mr Cake was pouring water into his eye while still halfway up Tower Crack. I hope the emergency eye care was successful.
Cake on 17 Oct 2016
In reply to TobyA:

Ha! Nice to meet you too, Toby. I scratched the eyeball a bit, but needless to say I slept well nonetheless.

Tower crack is very hard and I failed in the end, but I really shouldn't have been trying it at that point in proceedings
LakesWinter on 17 Oct 2016
In reply to TobyA:

Yeah nice to meet you too - do get in touch if you ever short of a partner and fancy getting out round the peak by the way.
goatee - on 17 Oct 2016
In reply to TobyA:

Went with Francis Jan to an unclimbed crag near Brandon in Kerry on Wednesday and climbed 3 new routes. A 35mtr VDiff, a 30mtr HVDiff and a lovely 40mtr Severe. Wonderful day out....http://howlingmist.blogspot.ie/2016/10/rock-climbing-at-tsais-near-mount.html?m=1
cb294 - on 17 Oct 2016
In reply to TobyA:

Thanks for the commiserations... Probably just means it will rain next weekend (but only if I am not working again...)!

CB
walts4 - on 17 Oct 2016
In reply to TobyA:

Went into the Les Perrons de Vallorcine, wasn't disappointed & can yet again see why Jon raves about this place.
Very early start to make the most of the sun & climbed the route wholly in the sun.

Managed to climb Le premier matin du monde (7a+), but have to admit, Marie did the hard work, on sighting all of the hard pitches, good effort.
Walked out feeling very satisfied after 10 pitches of real quality in a stupendous autumn setting.
Mark Stevenson - on 17 Oct 2016
In reply to TobyA: Was good to see you in passing last weekend.

Was in the Peak again this weekend. Bamford Edge on Saturday; Brown's Crack (HS 4b), 4x quality VSs plus Nemmes Pas Harry (E1 5b) which was ace followed by a pretty poor dogged ascent of Undercut Crack (E2 5c).

Sunday afternoon turned out really good after the rain stopped. Repeated 7 routes from VDiff the HVS at Stanage Popular with a novice. Hargreaves' Original Route (VS 4c) felt interesting but Eliminator (HVS 5b) was a total path which was nice given I failed on it back in the dim and distant past. Finished off by belaying a mate on Flying Buttress Direct (E1 5b).

john spence - on 17 Oct 2016
In reply to TobyA:
Indoors for me yesterday at the Reach, led my first 6c+ , 67th birthday tomorrow...... So chuffed.
Dave Garnett - on 17 Oct 2016
In reply to TobyA:

I somehow ended up on a sport crag for second time in a few weeks having managed to avoid clipping bolts this side of the channel for the last four decades.

Not sure what's happening to me.
Offwidth - on 17 Oct 2016
In reply to Dave Garnett:

I hope it's not catching!? (Indoor bouldering both days to make time for thesis editing... grrr).
girlymonkey - on 17 Oct 2016
In reply to TobyA:

I also went to Reiff for the climbing festival. We didn't climb Saturday (partly due to hand pain - possible pulley injury , but mostly due to rain and wind!), we got 6 routes in yesterday though. I'm not leading hard stuff at the moment, but really enjoyed Tystie Slab (VD)
TobyA on 17 Oct 2016
In reply to girlymonkey:

> I'm not leading hard stuff at the moment, but really enjoyed Tystie Slab (VD)

That looks great. Not completely sure but I think I might have done it back the 90s. I've done a few of the easier ones on that section. Reiff is so great! Just a shame how far it is to get there for most of us, although I guess that it part of the magic.

Jim 1003 - on 17 Oct 2016
In reply to Dave Garnett:

Its Brexit...
airborne - on 17 Oct 2016
In reply to TobyA:
Cleaned the house Saturday, while the kids lolled about on the Xbox. Something wrong there...

Out for 7am Sunday for a top little adventure on a tottering 3-pitch VS in Warton Main Quarry building character, back home for 10am. Then out for a run over Wansfell in the afternoon. Living the dream!
BusyLizzie on 17 Oct 2016
In reply to john spence:

> Indoors for me yesterday at the Reach, led my first 6c+ , 67th birthday tomorrow...... So chuffed.

That is so inspiring, there is hope for me yet!!

I have really enjoyed this thread! I ran 13 miles on Sunday, but hopefully will have someting to contribute to a climbing thread after next weekend.
TobyA on 17 Oct 2016
In reply to airborne:

> Cleaned the house Saturday, while the kids lolled about on the Xbox. Something wrong there...

Funnily enough that was rather like my Sunday, although my kids don't have an Xbox, but minecraft on other computers for hours on end.
Dave Garnett - on 18 Oct 2016
In reply to Jim 1003:

> Its Brexit...

Encouraging me to be more European. Or Welsh.
Dave Garnett - on 18 Oct 2016
In reply to Offwidth:

> I hope it's not catching!? (Indoor bouldering both days to make time for thesis editing... grrr).

To be fair I had a character-forming day on the Glyders on Saturday, bolted limestone on the way home was just a bit of sun bathing.
Climbster - on 18 Oct 2016
In reply to TobyA:

Saturday - Between the morning rain and the afternoon midges we managed to squeeze in a few routes at the newly cleaned Egerton Quarry including the classic Cherry Bomb (VS 4c) and the less well starred but equally good Red Wall Direct (E1 5b). Thanks to all involved with the clean up

Sunday - Hid from the rain at the traffic centre Depot. Not bad, but not outside either
deacondeacon - on 24 Oct 2016
In reply to TobyA:
It's Monday morning, the weekend is over and so I'm reviving your thread Toby
So what did everyone get up to this weekend?

I went to Brimham for the first time and really enjoyed it.
Wasn't ready for the (what seemed like) thousands of tourists watching, shouting, taking photos, standing on kit that there seemed to be. But the place is amazing. Really different to what I'm used to with loads of interesting 'roadrunner' style towers and balancing rocks compared to the usual gritstone edge.
It's hard to believe that some of the rocks aren't fenced off and that we're allowed to clamber around on them.

Anyway down to business!
Frensis Direct- cool route but not worthy of 3 stars imo. Only about six foot of independent (not particularly pleasant) climbing.
Seems to have a reputation for being a little soft but I didn't think so.
Picnic- probably my favourite route of the day. The VS up to it is lovely finger crack laybacking up to some bomber gear then go!
For an E2 it felt really out there and had the ability to be thuggy and delicate at the same time. I'd recommend giving the top a look first though as rocking over onto scrittly lichenous slopers felt well sketchy and could be tamed with a little clean.
Left Wall- this is what we came for really and I only just managed to walk away with it. Theo got all the gear in on his attempt so I only had to Supersport it but it still took me four goes ground up I think. Not what I expected at all from an E56a. Much safer and harder than I was expecting. The gear is bomber, you can get bits in on both ropes all the way, no runouts to speak of but that last move was a pig for me. Perhaps if you've got good stamina it feels piss.

All in all a great day with a good crowd, there was nineof us, and we bumped into some old faces. A great day and I'm keen to go back.

What was everybody else up to?
ChrisBrooke - on 24 Oct 2016
In reply to TobyA:

Did the yellow circuit at The Works on Saturday in just over an hour while wife and baby slept. Ran 22km around the Peak on Sunday while wife and baby slept. A bit sore this morning. Would have been nice to get some proper climbing done, although it felt quite cold and windy out and about.
BnB - on 24 Oct 2016
In reply to TobyA:

To Stanage on Saturday where a beautiful day on the grit was sandwiched neatly between drizzle before 10 and after 4. Finally got far enough down the Popular End to lead Mississippi Buttress Direct. I've been wanting to do this one for a couple of years and it's strange that it hasn't happened before. Absolutely wonderful route, at once quite easy (apart perhaps from the crux move off the ledge) yet also awkwardly off-balance for much of the way to add some spice. So many holds and gear placements!!

Also led Louisiana Rib and a couple of other VSs, but cheated a bit as it showered briefly on the bold-ish crux move of the former, making a step into the gully prudent (that's what I told myself, anyway).
The Ex-Engineer - on 24 Oct 2016
In reply to deacondeacon:
> What was everybody else up to?

I was out in the Brecon Beacons in the mist on Saturday. It was work, but at least I got some exercise.

Yesterday I had a great day at Avon Gorge. Easily my best effort of the year.

My mate, Will led M1 (E1 5b) before I got on Ladder of Desire (E3 5c) which lived up to its three star rating.
Will then cruised up Mike's Mistake (E1 5b) before we headed down to Suspension Bridge Buttress and I pysched myself up and got on GT Special (E4 6a). Great climbing and not too desperate. I probably agree with the online comments about it being soft for E4 but I was still very happy. Will then finished the day off with Suspension Bridge Arete (HVS 5a).

They were my first E3+ onsights this year. A bit too late in the year, but the same thing happened last year.


TobyA on 25 Oct 2016
In reply to deacondeacon:

Well done for restarting it! I went to Morocco on holiday! On Sunday we did climb to 2100 mtrs in the high Atlas, but it was in a minibus so doesn't really count. Unfortunately no proper climbing on this trip.
ads.ukclimbing.com
olddirtydoggy - on 25 Oct 2016
In reply to TobyA:

Did 3 wonderful routes on stanage and managed to jump a grade. Came home and climbed on my gf, classy.
Ciderslider - on 25 Oct 2016
In reply to TobyA:

So after a skinful and a somewhat dodgy King Prawn Vindaloo on Friday evening Charley and I nipped down to Swanage and abbed into Boulder Ruckle - it was bright with a cold wind, and apart from one other team we had the ruckle to ourselves - at the bottom out of the wind it was too warm in fleeces and so I sat belaying in my t shirt whilst Charley climbed Elysium (E1 5b) whilst trying really hard not to sh@t himself - it was a real struggle for me belaying, as every time I looked up I thought I was gonna throw up.
We both climbed one of the best routes at Swanage in beautiful conditions and then had a pint in the Square and Compass before heading home.
olddirtydoggy - on 30 Oct 2016
In reply to TobyA:

Bought a guidebook for nearly 30 quid and drove all the way up to North Yorks, Ingleton to get a dawn till dusk session on Twistleton Scars. Popped my head out the tent to find the whole valley engulfed in pea soup fog. The water was running down the rock despite reasonable forcasts so we drove back via a day of touristy stuff.
Today we headed out to Yarncliffe to find the rock covered in wet grease. Now I sit here doing tax accounts. What a ****ing epic weekend.......
GarethSL on 30 Oct 2016
In reply to TobyA:

First ice route of the season.

Kongsvollfossen (WI-3)

Bit wet but great to be swinging axes again. Topped off with an evining session at a new indoor wall.
BnB - on 30 Oct 2016
In reply to olddirtydoggy:

Sounds like my day at Wilton on Friday. Had a pleasant hour strolling on the Darwen moors at least.
davidbeynon on 30 Oct 2016
In reply to TobyA:

A trip to the culm coast for a bit of seaside climbing yesterday, then knocked off all the sub Es on the slab at portishead qaurry this morning.
deacondeacon - on 30 Oct 2016
In reply to TobyA:
Feeling a bit poorly so nowt too exciting.
Friday was an afternoon at Froggatt. Repeated a few classics (and there's possibly no better crag in the world for repeating classics than Froggatt).
3 star route after 3 start route mostly around HVS-E2.
Chequers Buttress, Browns Eliminate and Todys Wall.
If I live till I'm 80 I hope I'll still be repeating these routes every year.
Saturday was on to Black Rocks to try and dodge the rain ( with limited success). Every time the crag dried up it'd start spitting again. A good day though and better than sitting at home.
Did two variations of Birch Tree Wall. Not sure which ones as the guidebook and Ukc logbooks slightly contradict/ overlap each other. Also did Lone Tree Slab (I think it's called), a VS leftwards trending slabby layback flake. Fell off it, then finished it. Just horrible in the wet and greenness.
Then my mate tried Golden Days which was well cool as he was punching above his weight and giving it his all. Well cool.

Just hope the weathers better next weekend.
muppetfilter - on 30 Oct 2016
In reply to TobyA:

After a couple of failed attempts i bagged Kyrie Eleison
Bulls Crack - on 30 Oct 2016
In reply to muppetfilter:

> After a couple of failed attempts i bagged Kyrie Eleison

Old Skool!
Bulls Crack - on 30 Oct 2016
In reply to TobyA:

Fell off the very last move of Quiet Flight Direct at a deserted Kilnsey
harold walmsley - on 30 Oct 2016
In reply to TobyA:

I cleaned, shunted and bolted a new line in Twll Mawr. Just need someone to go and lead it with now before the weather turns bad (it was nice in Snowdonia today, sounds like it was worse further east))
TobyA on 30 Oct 2016
In reply to harold walmsley:

I came home from holiday so no climbing, but did fly directly over the Alps so had a great view of the Mont Blanc range, could even see some past routes I've done very far below. Some fresh snow in the Alps it seems!
bonebag - on 30 Oct 2016
In reply to TobyA:

Harborough Rocks for us yesterday. Creased Wall, Creased Crack and Thin Air plus a couple of VDiff's including The Arete. Overcast, low cloud and a bit drizzly but not cold. So quite a good afternoon.
deacondeacon - on 13 Nov 2016
In reply to TobyA:
Toby you're seriously neglecting this thread ;)

Went to Gardoms today and it was brill, even climbed in a Tshirt for some of it which'll probably be the last time this year.
Bivens crack- seconded a mate up this but it's not the greatest warm up. Got pumped, got a bit scared, sketched along to the finish.
Rhythmic Itch- another E1 which is really good (a brilliant crag for E1s). Airy traverse, good arete climbing then yarding on jugs to finish. When I came to fill my logbook in I saw that I lead it a few years ago.
Perfect Day- mega E5, dead hard but dead safe. Got my arse handed to me on this last weekend but just scraped up it today.
A great day.
TobyA on 13 Nov 2016
In reply to deacondeacon:

> Toby you're seriously neglecting this thread ;)

You're right, I am - apologies. Actually, last weekend I was down in the Midlands for Bonfire Night with family, and the two weekends before that I was on holiday in Morocco, so actually just haven't been climbing recently and had anything to contribute! But today I did a bit better - quick Stanage hit in the morning sunshine. Found a partner via these forums and had a pleasant morning out with George. He led Macleod's Variation (VS 4c) which to be honest didn't seem awfully different from Hargreave's Original but was still fun. I led Amazon Crack (Stanage) (S 4a) which I had soloed 3/4 of in the summer, didn't like the top, so soloed back down again! I thought the top move was spicy for a severe so had made the right decision when soloing! We then went along to wee buttress next to Verandah Buttress and we did two little but exciting VSs Cocktails (VS 4c) and The Confectioner (VS 5a), which went with some teetering and big reaches between breaks. Finished with George doing The Nose and me leading Intermediate Buttress (HVD 4a) next to it (which is a bit rubbish). Good trip out!

Some "yoof" walking along the top with the weirdest music coming surprisingly loudly from a phone, and a big group (maybe a student club, not sure, but there were some minibuses in the parking) climbing at the start of popular end also playing music quite loudly. I'm turning into an old fogey because I thought of various sarcastic comments to make (although being English of course didn't make them).

Jon Stewart - on 13 Nov 2016
In reply to deacondeacon:

> Perfect Day- mega E5, dead hard but dead safe.

Wow, good effort! I onsighted a few pints after work...
olddirtydoggy - on 13 Nov 2016
In reply to TobyA:

Finally a dry single weekend day. Yesterday was wet but today was Stanage. Smashed everything on Paradise wall within our grade.
Pids - on 13 Nov 2016
In reply to TobyA:

Ben Donich Ben Donich

The ladies first Corbett, age 7, with friends in typical seasonal weather - a great day
Climbster - on 13 Nov 2016
In reply to TobyA:

On Saturday, in a desperate search for dry rock, managed to squeeze a handful of boulder problems out of Healaugh (Crag Willas); mostly wet but a few good enough bits were found on the freestanding blocks.
Today, we ended up at Crookrise and ticked The Shelf (E2 5b); a great route that's been on my list for years.
So, all in all, pretty happy despite the weather
The Ex-Engineer - on 14 Nov 2016
After a rather desperate search for dry rock last weekend in North Wales and finally resorting to climbing the infamous The Hyll Drem Girdle (HVS 5a) (it was dry for 3 pitches despite the rain) we had a superb warm sunny day at Winspit today, along with about 20 others.

I flashed Queen Anne's Men (6c) and Red Rain (6c+) which was a fairly substantial warm up. I then dogged my way up Solstice (7a+) which was good but I decided against trying to redpoint it in favour of working Revhead's Hi-roller (7b+) which I'd belayed a mate on years ago. I got all the moves after 3 tie-ins but ended up top-roping it clean at the end of the day rather than going for the redpoint which I've got mixed feelings about. Although given quickly it gets dark and how utterly boxed I got on it, it was probably the better option.

Anyway a rather good day for November.
deacondeacon - on 14 Nov 2016
In reply to olddirtydoggy:

> Finally a dry single weekend day. Yesterday was wet but today was Stanage. Smashed everything on Paradise wall within our grade.

Nice one, a great bit of crag
deacondeacon - on 14 Nov 2016
In reply to Jon Stewart:

> Wow, good effort! I onsighted a few pints after work...

If you got on it, you'd get up it.
Hard and safe. Gear by your face for every move and slightly overhanging so lovely safe falls.
Probably about f7a but hard to say as it's very cruxy. I thought about F6B/6Cish
deacondeacon - on 14 Nov 2016
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:

That Hyll Dren Girdle is brill. Perma dry, but also a great route.
ianstevens - on 14 Nov 2016
In reply to deacondeacon:
> Went to Gardoms today and it was brill, even climbed in a Tshirt for some of it which'll probably be the last time this year.

It was briefly T-shirt weather in North Wales yesterday too - given the perma-dampness that seems to have hit the place now, we headed to the slate quarries - as seemingly did everyone else. I did Zzzooming The Tube (E3 6a), a surprisingly individual feeling line and good fun, but with a cheeky bolt placement (the guide isn't kidding about designer danger!). Then it all got a bit damp and drizzly so my friend lead a few routes she was very chuffed with and we then headed to the cafe in Dinorwig for some excellent cake.
Post edited at 08:37
planetmarshall on 14 Nov 2016
In reply to TobyA:

Friday 11th was a public holiday in Belgium, so made a very last minute decision to fly to Alicante for the weekend. No idea where to go, what to climb or who with but The Orange House was full of climbers so had no problems sourcing a partner for 3 days of climbing in the sunshine.

Still haven't quite sussed this sport climbing thing, though. I'm physically and technically capable of climbing much harder grades, I'm just not trying hard enough. Have set myself the goal of redpointing a 6c this Winter.
Sam Mayfield - on 15 Nov 2016
In reply to planetmarshall:

Think you answered my message on the other thread that at least you went to stay with us! Glad you found partners and the sun was shining.
Sam ORange House
TobyA on 20 Nov 2016
In reply to Sam Mayfield:

I can start this week as the rain is hammering down outside on the windows and getting out if bed this Sunday morn doesn't appeal to much. We have had a Peak District interpretation of the Finnish Pikkujoulu (little Christmas tradition) this weekend. Two of my most regular climbing partners from Helsinki are other Brits with Finnish wives and purely by chance we all moved with our half Finnish families to the UK over recent years. So of the 6 adults and 5 kids involved, 4 of us wanted to climb whilst the other two adults heroically cooked Finnish Christmas food and kept an eye on the sprogs.

We went to Froggatt, no snow on the ground there buts lots on the higher moors north. Tony and Jody did some hard bouldering business while Anni and I did some routes. We did Allen's Slab (S 4a) which I had nearly soloed last winter but hadn't like the top of, and leading it I was happy to have a runner in on the top stretch. We watched an exciting solo by a chap called Sam on Downhill Racer (photo in my gallery soon) then Anni led the super Heather Wall (HVD 3c). I finished with Bollard Crack (VS 4c) which fully lived up to its reputation, with freezing fingers I really thought I might fall off the top, but some sort of knee lock in the offwidth helped me flop over on to the top. Then it was back to Sheffield for a huge salmon and all the Finnish-Yorkshire fusion trimmings.
deacondeacon - on 20 Nov 2016
In reply to TobyA:
Friday went down Awesome Walls for a mess about, finished with a McDonald's. I'd definitely recommend the new habanero Mexican stack they're doing at the minute.
Went to Cratcliffe on Saturday to Boulder and optimistically took trad gear. It was perfect conditions so the ropes came out.
Suicide Wall Direct- supposed to be E1 but I found it desperate. Seriously felt more like E2/E3 the way I did it but I possibly missed something or I was being too strict on the line.
Boot Hill- amazing route. Cool ar£te climbing, mega traverse, and finish on hidden jugs. Probably a bit soft which is always nice.

Ice skating and a two year olds birthday party today, so I'm looking forward to jelly and ice cream lol
Post edited at 09:20
leland stamper on 20 Nov 2016
In reply to TobyA:

Not much climbing but first recce of Exmoor coast traverse on Friday, driving through the first snows. Trying to see the bottom of rather grassy 1000' cliffs. Scrambled up and down waterfalls in wellies. Very technical but no chalk!
MFB - on 20 Nov 2016
In reply to TobyA:

more walking than actual climbing but
Friday -Jacks Rake - snowy - axe, gloves but no crampons
Saturday - stomping over Pike of Blisco with a bit of snowy 'bouldering' on summit crags
Sunday - family trip over Bowfell - plenty of deep snow and spindrift finished weekend off with a Middlefell butress - difficult descent due to the snow
Anti-faff - on 20 Nov 2016
In reply to TobyA:
Two or three easy routes at Peel Crag and Crag Lough today. It was quite cold.
Jon Stewart - on 20 Nov 2016
In reply to deacondeacon:

> Suicide Wall Direct- supposed to be E1 but I found it desperate. Seriously felt more like E2/E3 the way I did it but I possibly missed something or I was being too strict on the line.

No such route - made up?

> Boot Hill- amazing route. Cool ar£te climbing, mega traverse, and finish on hidden jugs. Probably a bit soft which is always nice.

Did you teeter up the front or do the scary left side (actual arete climbing)?


deacondeacon - on 20 Nov 2016
In reply to Jon Stewart:

> No such route - made up?
It's on ukc but doubt it's in Eastern grit.

> Did you teeter up the front or do the scary left side (actual arete climbing)?

Yeah I went up the left hand side. Loved it!

Bulls Crack - on 20 Nov 2016
In reply to Anti-faff:
> Two or three easy routes at Peel Crag and Crag Lough today. It was quite cold.

You don't say?! Respect
Post edited at 22:00
TobyA on 20 Nov 2016
In reply to deacondeacon:

The chap on downhill racer http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=285394 shame you can't see the snowy hills in the distance from that angle. We did a family trip to Blue John Cavern today. Not much snow at the top of Mam Tor now but plenty still up on Kinder.
Jon Stewart - on 20 Nov 2016
In reply to deacondeacon:

> It's on ukc but doubt it's in Eastern grit.

I didn't get the UKC description since the main crack of SW lands you in the cave, but it's in the BMC and I get how it does actually go somewhere!
DubyaJamesDubya - on 21 Nov 2016
In reply to TobyA:

My stairs
Mike505 on 21 Nov 2016
In reply to TobyA:

Really chuffed to get on Browns Eliminate at long last and Three Pebble Slab. More importantly my partner lead her first HVS (Todys Wall), getting to the top in good style, I don't think I've ever been so psyched for another climber, that move looks horrific for the short though!
natetan - on 21 Nov 2016
In reply to TobyA:

Ya mum!
TobyA on 21 Nov 2016
In reply to Mike505:

Mike - was that saturday, if so I think you're the one who I chatted too while your partner was on Tody's? Good effort on Brown's Eliminate - looks way too scary for me.
Mike505 on 21 Nov 2016
In reply to TobyA:
Ah so you're Toby the reviewer? Thanks man! It felt like being back on slate in a way.
Post edited at 19:27
Offwidth - on 21 Nov 2016
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Suicide Wall Direct (E1 5c)

The description is as per the new Eastern Grit guide and only makes sense with the topo picture (as they don't mention you climb out from the right branch from the niche). You can obviously also avoid the cave by climbing the main line in one long pitch.
deacondeacon - on 21 Nov 2016
In reply to Offwidth:

Did you help with 'Froggatt to Black Rocks' Offwidth, and if so did you climb the route, or were you with someone that did, to check the grade? I've done some hard E1's in my time and this may just be the hardest.
Graeme Hammond - on 21 Nov 2016
In reply to deacondeacon:

Suicide Direct has been on my list for a while (since seeing it in the BMC guide). Having not done it yet I can't comment on if the grade is accurate for the correct line but looking at the topo (i don't know how feasible it would be) just checking that you didn't go direct through the traverse on the normal route to gain the finishing flake direct too hence it feeling hard? This is probably unlikely as isn't the rock almost bank there? and if it was anywhere near E2/3 i would expect for it to have been climbed & claimed before but who knows.
deacondeacon - on 21 Nov 2016
In reply to Graeme Hammond:
I'm fairly positive I climbed the correct line as the only independent climbing was a hard crack.
I may have just been having a bad day though
Offwidth - on 21 Nov 2016
In reply to deacondeacon:

I tried to check as much as I could as co-editor but variations above HVS were not top of my list... so no I didn't check that route but Adam and others will have. I will check it as soon as I can now, so thanks for the tip. Fierce and polish is in the BMC text (in the old days sandbags sadly often hid behind words like "pleasant") . I can't speak for Rockfax in that the text is oddly quiet for the difficulty but the topo line is right.
Graeme Hammond - on 21 Nov 2016
In reply to deacondeacon & Offwidth:

Taking of having bad days at cratcliffe i did the first half of Offwidth's new route Oi Grimer! (E1 5b) aka the route claimed as Whose Line Is It Anyway? (HVS 5a) in EG in this summer. Whilst I was as having a bit off an off night **(see excuse story below)** i couldn't see how the 2nd pitch was only E1 5b. The first pitch seemed fairly hard for HVS 5a. It had some good climbing but the ground rising up to the left of the buttress unfortunately spoilt it IMO. Anyway can you confirm were the 2nd pitch bit goes exactly? I was confused by the 2nd pitch or at least the climbing seemed way too hard for E1 5b from my interpretation of your description: "The second pitch takes the steep wall on the left to the top." Was I meant to step down/traverse left and then up to gain the a leftwards slanting feature before reaching for the top? going direct on this left wall looked harder still! It seemed to me that the only worthwhile gear was very low which would not stop you hitting the big ledge but should stop you if you fell leftwards down the gully but that wouldn't be a fun fall! This combined with the dirtiness of this wall I decided against doing the top pitch.

**excuse story: I was feeling a bit worse for wear after work and it was my first time climbing following an accident/injury a couple of days before. This happened when my climbing partner started lowering me down the corner on the Cromlech to get some stuck gear i had decide to leave whist seconding. Due to the combination of him being stood up and anchored to a tree off to the side he got pulled off balance and off his stance and we both ended flying through the air and dangling near the top of Lord of the Flies!!! During which as the lower climber I hit the rock face first before being body checked into it a 2nd time it as my partner did a pendulum into me. Fortunately he held me lock on his belay plate and I didn't get dropped/die and we hand over handed up the rope to safety. Unfortunately i sustained two injuries. One a small cut and bruised elbow which rapidly developed into Elbow (Olecranon) Bursitis. The 2nd was that I had a big impact to my head from my partner slamming into me and what felt like my head provided a nice cushion between him and the rock. Luckily I was wearing a helmet or it could have been much worse (if the risk of being dropped down the Cromlech wasn't enough). This impact caused a small cut to my head and some blood which rapidly became a large bump on my head. This was very painful for the first week most of the time (including climbing that evening) but it eventually stopped hurting much except when I slept and put pressure on the scab covering this cut. Over the next few weeks it stopped hurting completely except when i poked what continued to be a large lump on my head and scab. My wife kept telling me off for poking the scab and occasionally making it bleed. This hard scab on my head was taking a long time to heal and the bump whilst had reduced in size considerably was still there 2 months on when i went to get a hair cut. Whilst making small talk with the lady cutting my hair she asked "what I had had done to my head?". I told her about the incident to which she replied that it looked like I'd had surgery as what appeared to be the end of a plastic screw was just poking out of my head. So it turned out hard scab that i had been picking at for 2 months was in fact a piece of climbing helmet stuck in my head! I hope this counts as a decent enough excuse for not leading E1 that night
Offwidth - on 22 Nov 2016
In reply to Graeme Hammond:
Neil Foster also said it was hard for E1. The second 'pitch' takes the obvious narrow left slanting groove, on the left, from the ledge: initially dropping down underneath it to use it as a handrail until you can rock partly back on it again. I thought the gear was OK but spaced. How clean was the top pitch (we had to brush it before the ascent)? We were climbing well but incentivised: Dave Simmonite was photographing someone on SW for a magazine article and saw us when we were cleaning it prior to the FA, so we made sure we tried hard to finish it that day ;-) Oi Grimer is of course an anagram, they don't often come that good.

Pitch 1 was top end HVS in our view as well. We had to excavate the key flake hold from under turf. It was one of those Eureka moments as, without it, it might have been too hard for us.

Its the best excuse I've heard since a student apologised for missing an exam because of a fatal injury. Great story.
Post edited at 10:15

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