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Rope length for Costa Blanca sport routes

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 bonebag 25 Oct 2016
Planning a trip to Costa Blanca for a first non UK sport climbing trip on single pitch routes. Is a 50m single rope sufficient or would it be better to have a 60m rope as recommended in RockFax Spain: Costa Blanca.

Folks thoughts would be appreciated.
 spenser 25 Oct 2016
In reply to bonebag:

You'll get by on a 60 if that's what you've got but if you are buying a new rope for the trip look at 70 or even 80m as it will grant you far more flexibility, Bergfreunde usually have some good deals on ropes about this length.
 timjones 26 Oct 2016
In reply to bonebag:

> Planning a trip to Costa Blanca for a first non UK sport climbing trip on single pitch routes. Is a 50m single rope sufficient or would it be better to have a 60m rope as recommended in RockFax Spain: Costa Blanca.

> Folks thoughts would be appreciated.

You'll probably get by on a 50m, but if you're buying a rope and are likely to take more sport climbing trips I'd consider an 80m. It's becoming more common for that really tantalising line to be bolted for 80m ropes
 Lemony 26 Oct 2016
In reply to bonebag:

We've never had an issue on a 60 or a 70 but 50m is too short to lower off a decent number of pitches. For me the extra bulk and weight of the 70 is just about worth it for the handful of extra routes it opens up (and the peace of mind) but I'm not sure I could be bothered with another 10m on top.
OP bonebag 26 Oct 2016
In reply to Lemony:

Thanks for the info Lemony, timjones and spenser. Very useful to hear your thoughts : )
 CharlieMack 26 Oct 2016
In reply to bonebag:

I used a 50m earlier this year. Was quite often a close thing and have now bought a 70 for euro trips.
 BrendanO 26 Oct 2016
In reply to bonebag:

Hi!

I have a 50, and some very long slings. Sometimes I used it in Costa Blanca, sometimes I have used a 60, which has been fine for almost everything.

We bought a 70m 3 years back as advised in guidebook. Used it once, handy for multipitch, and then once more when I went off-route on a bit of an epic (some bolts, fence stobs, and exhaust pipe parts asprotection!!,) and was v grateful for the extra rope! Otherwise it has sat unused, far too much of a hassle to flake out and carry about. But I don't like hassle!
 3leggeddog 26 Oct 2016
In reply to bonebag:

Pedro's law

The rope length you need = n + 10, where n = the length of your rope.

Every few years once most folks have bought an n metre rope for their holiday, Pedro goes out new routing with a rope 10m longer than yours, he develops new crags with quality routes at all grades. Pedro holds shares in all major rope manufacturers.
 Carless 26 Oct 2016
In reply to 3leggeddog:

Ever been to Cliffbase on Hvar?
Even 80m ropes are only just ok on stretch on some routes
 bpmclimb 26 Oct 2016
In reply to bonebag:

> Folks thoughts would be appreciated.

you'll be rather restricted at a number of crags with a 50, so I would say minimum 60. More options with 70 or 80, but the extra length will be dead weight at some crags. The final choice depends what crags you intend to visit.

 sheppy 27 Oct 2016
In reply to 3leggeddog:

Funniest thing I have read on UKC in ages, still laughing!
OP bonebag 27 Oct 2016
In reply to BrendanO:

An interesting thought. Hadn't really considered the extra hassle of flaking it all out. Ta.
OP bonebag 27 Oct 2016
In reply to 3leggeddog:

Brilliant.
MrWayne 27 Oct 2016
In reply to bonebag:
If you've never handled a > 50m rope before I would strongly suggest you only go for a 60m rope.

I have a 70m rope bought for Spain and to be honest it is a massive hassle to carry about even with a rope bag.

If we were doing longer or overhanging pitches a 70m could be useful, but we're not. I would suggest 2x 50 or 1x60 to be made into 2x60 at a later date if you need. You can always abseil off with 2x 50.

Also most of the longer routes (above 30m) have interim belay spots, so that's why I suggest 1x 60 should get you through almost everything.
Post edited at 11:56
1
 Lemony 27 Oct 2016
In reply to MrWayne:

You find handling one 70m rope is more faff than handling two 50m ropes? I can't say I've ever found mine a "massive hassle" so much as marginally heavier and a little slower to flake.

Having to split a single abseil into two will lose you more time than you'd lose to all the flaking you'll do in a week.
1
 planetmarshall 27 Oct 2016
In reply to MrWayne:

> I have a 70m rope bought for Spain and to be honest it is a massive hassle to carry about even with a rope bag.

I refer you to rule #5.
 GrahamD 27 Oct 2016
In reply to spenser:

> You'll get by on a 60 if that's what you've got but if you are buying a new rope for the trip look at 70 or even 80m as it will grant you far more flexibility, Bergfreunde usually have some good deals on ropes about this length.

Really ? I can't think of any objective I've tried in Costa Blanca where I've needed anything other than a 60m single. What am I missing out on ?
 Simon Caldwell 27 Oct 2016
In reply to GrahamD:

There are some 35m pitches at Toix Este. But you're not missing out on much if you've not done them!
MrWayne 27 Oct 2016
In reply to Lemony:

And you find reading correctly too much of a faff it seems
2
 GrahamD 27 Oct 2016
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

In any case I've usually contrived to be able to do supposedly 35m pitches with a 60m rope at places like El Chorro
 Carless 27 Oct 2016
In reply to MrWayne:

> it is a massive hassle to carry about even with a rope bag.

I'm intrigued - how is a 70m rope a massive hassle when using a rope bag?
Does the extra 10m really weigh that much?

And for climbing, you just undo the rope bag and climb, no matter what length of rope
MrWayne 27 Oct 2016
In reply to Carless:

It doesn't weigh a lot, but when the sun is out and hot and someone has to carry it, then it is still extra weight and bulk for no reason.

Compare a 10mm 50m rope to a 10mm 50m rope and its a big difference.
3
 Lemony 27 Oct 2016
In reply to MrWayne:

> And you find reading correctly too much of a faff it seems

Since we're being sensitive - I read it again and it still seems to be bollocks.
1
 Carless 27 Oct 2016
In reply to MrWayne:

I did your comparison and it was no difference at all

I might change your "massive hassle" to "a minor inconvenience, more than made up for by not having to fraction lower-offs", but then again, I climb with an 80m rope
1
 bpmclimb 27 Oct 2016
In reply to MrWayne:

> It doesn't weigh a lot, but when the sun is out and hot and someone has to carry it, then it is still extra weight and bulk for no reason.

But it's not for no reason - it's to give more options, which include single lowers from long routes, and increased possibilities of running short pitches together. You may decide that those options aren't worth the extra weight; others will decide differently, but there's no point denying that any advantages exist when they clearly do.

> Compare a 10mm 50m rope to a 10mm 50m rope and its a big difference.

??
MrWayne 27 Oct 2016
In reply to Lemony:

Since you're being sensitive
1
MrWayne 27 Oct 2016
In reply to bpmclimb
My opinion is the advantages are just perceived and make no difference in reality as I explained for a bunch of reasons.
2
 Paul Hy 27 Oct 2016
In reply to bonebag:

i'm putting it bluntly 60m minimum. I'm taking 70m as i got one after my first trip to Costa Blanca. there are re-belays but its a pain, much more so than flaking out just another 10m and in most cases dont even flake rope out as use straight out of the bag.
 GrahamD 27 Oct 2016
In reply to bonebag:

Remember also the longer the rope, the heavier it is and the more it impacts your baggage costs.
 Paul Hy 27 Oct 2016
In reply to GrahamD:

10m of rope is only 750grms
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 27 Oct 2016
In reply to bonebag:

> Planning a trip to Costa Blanca for a first non UK sport climbing trip on single pitch routes. Is a 50m single rope sufficient or would it be better to have a 60m rope as recommended in RockFax Spain: Costa Blanca.

> Folks thoughts would be appreciated.

You haven't said what grades you are looking at but a 60m should be just fine. The 1st time I went to Kalymnos everyone said you needed a 70m rope but my 60m did fine on 122 out of 123 routes, the other one requited a bit of careful down-climbing,

Chris
1
 Mark Eddy 27 Oct 2016
In reply to bonebag:

60m will be fine for most of the sport and a fair bit of the trad.
 bpmclimb 27 Oct 2016
In reply to MrWayne:

> In reply to bpmclimb

> My opinion is the advantages are just perceived and make no difference in reality as I explained for a bunch of reasons.

But they can and do make a difference in reality! I myself have climbed Spanish routes from which I was able to lower in one go purely because I had a 70 or 80m rope, so I know it to be true. It doesn't matter how big a bunch of reasons you think up: your statement that the advantages of a longer rope are "just perceived" is patently false.
 Jim 1003 28 Oct 2016
In reply to bpmclimb:

I agree, I've got a 60 and 70 m rope so have taken both out. If you have a rope bag there is no difference in carrying them around. Once on the crag, 70 m is much more versatile especially on multi pitch, sometimes one lower gets you off instead of 2 with a 60m.
 GrahamD 28 Oct 2016
In reply to Paul Hy:

> 10m of rope is only 750grms

For a 15kg Ryan Air allowance shared between two of us, I don't have 0.75kG to spare ! And, as I say, I've never not been able to do any routes I wanted because I didn't have an extra 10m of rope.
 Jim 1003 28 Oct 2016
In reply to GrahamD:
Ryan air does 20 kg, don't be so tight, get a bag each! I suppose you wear your helmet and walking boots as well to save weight. LOL.
Post edited at 13:50
 GrahamD 28 Oct 2016
In reply to Jim 1003:

Walking boots yes, helmet no. And buggered if I'm paying extra money to Ryan Air to carry an extra 10m of rope that isn't needed.
 Carless 28 Oct 2016
In reply to Chris Craggs:

> The 1st time I went to Kalymnos everyone said you needed a 70m rope but my 60m did fine on 122 out of 123 routes

and the nth time you went?

In reality, as everyone should know, you can get down from any route with more or less hassle as necessary
but for someone buying a new sport rope for euro-cragging - 60, 70, 80, 90(not yet but surely soon - see Pedro above), ?
1
OP bonebag 28 Oct 2016
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Thanks Chris. As you say I didn't say which grades we'd be on. It'll be low grades up to 6a/6b and most likely single pitch only on our first visit. So yes, 60m I guess will be good enough.

OP bonebag 28 Oct 2016
In reply to GrahamD:

Quite right GrahamD. I wear my boots on flights too. Don't like Ryanair either. Prefer Easyjet myself. Probably upset a load of folk now.

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