/ Awsome HS routes around Devon

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fire_munki on 27 Oct 2016
I'm just getting into leading HS (I should be able to do much more but my head is broken) so I need a list of awesome HS's around Devon and Cornwall. Single pitch to start but multi would work too.

I don't think my head will take multi-pitch sea cliffs yet but hell include them in the list anyhows!
davidbeynon on 27 Oct 2016
In reply to fire_munki:

It's just over the border in Cornwall, but Vicarage Cliff has lots of excellent single pitch slab climbs up to that sort of level.

Vicarage Cliff
petegunn on 27 Oct 2016
In reply to fire_munki:

Sheeps Tor would be a good day out

Sheeps Tor
GrahamD - on 27 Oct 2016
In reply to fire_munki:

Central Groove on Dewerstone is a candidate for the best HS in the country.
fire_munki on 27 Oct 2016
In reply to GrahamD:

That's my local crag, Central Groove is a bit imposing and often lots of crowds which will also f**k with my head.

But it is on my list to do.
Chris the Tall - on 27 Oct 2016
In reply to fire_munki:

Baggy Point

Shangri-La may only be Severe but it's a cracker, and there's plenty of HSs and VSs there
Simon Caldwell - on 27 Oct 2016
In reply to GrahamD:

Right Angle is much better
Kafoozalem - on 27 Oct 2016
In reply to fire_munki:

Nexus at Chudleigh North (check the access page - the owner appreciates a call/text)
Never on Sunday at Chudleigh South
And for something completely different Four Strong Winds at Sharp Tor near Salcombe Four Strong Winds (S 4b)
minty1984 on 27 Oct 2016
In reply to fire_munki:

Second Central Groove at Dewerstone. Its the best HS I have ever done. Great gear, Holds and fantastic location
GrahamD - on 27 Oct 2016
In reply to fire_munki:

There are a couple of other worthwile HSs at Dewerstone, although I'd have said Fly on the Wall (for one) looks even more intimidating albeit without the audience.

The big advantage of Dewerstone is that generally its very sound rock with generally very good protection.
bpmclimb on 27 Oct 2016
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

> Right Angle is much better

Great route, but not best suited for someone "just getting into leading HS".
James Mann - on 27 Oct 2016
In reply to Kafoozalem:

Would agree with you on Nexus Pete. A fantastic route at the grade and a Biven Route to boot!

James
Chris Ebbutt - on 27 Oct 2016
In reply to fire_munki:

Sabre Tooth (HS 4a)
Something a little different but very good, no crowds, south facing, sheltered, no seepage, big belay posts, safe easy access and free parking what's not to like. The route has very contrasting moves over its single pitch and mounting the tooth is very fun.
Chris
alan moore - on 27 Oct 2016
In reply to fire_munki:

Best HS in Devon was Gates of Eden so now you are left with the (already mentioned) Central Groove.
Shangri La is very good.
So is Raven's Gully at Hay Tor
Box of Delights is probably VS
The Needle at Screda is a good HS (VS4b in the guide I think)
Westerlation at Compass is good as well

As people have said above, if you go to Penwith you'll be spoilt for choice for ossum routes at this grade...
Sean Kelly - on 27 Oct 2016
In reply to Kafoozalem:
Pete, my favourite of the moment at Chudder's is Barn Owl Crack, just brilliant. Only S, a little polished but great pro!
Post edited at 21:44
davidalcock - on 27 Oct 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:
Barn Owl Crack was VD, and Raven's Gully was Severe 25 years ago... I finally can feel righteous about grade creep! You'll be telling me the Haytor HVSs are E1s next...

But good calls on many of those routes.
Post edited at 21:59
Sean Kelly - on 27 Oct 2016
In reply to fire_munki:
If Raven's is only VD why do I see so many struggle up it! even the starting move is polished as hell. And the polish on Barn Owl Crack would test many VD leaders!
I meant to add Diamond Rib at Meadfoot Quarry which is HS but a little bold lower down.
Post edited at 22:13
Tom Last - on 27 Oct 2016
In reply to GrahamD:

> There are a couple of other worthwile HSs at Dewerstone, although I'd have said Fly on the Wall (for one) looks even more intimidating albeit without the audience.

Yes Fly on the Wall is really great. Similar degrees of exposure to CG and for my money, the better experience since it doesn't have the hideous polish.
Cusco - on 27 Oct 2016
In reply to fire_munki:

Kafoozalem's shout of Never on a Sunday at Chudleigh is a good one. Ok so it's two pitches but the belay is a commodious ledge with good nuts. Extend the draws when traversing around the overhang on P1. P2 is brilliant and well protected. Leek also has some great climbing on the upper wall.

Vicarage Cliff is nice but the approach is somewhat adventurous. I abbed down and left the rope in place rather than braving the hand over hand on the fishermans rope and the steep muddy path.

Shanghai La at Baggy is great.

Liars Dice at Hound Tor is short with good gear but it's bite is definitely worse than it's bark. You'll know what I mean halfway up and onwards....

At VS 4b Raven Wing on Low Man is one of the undersung gems of The Moor. Great climbing, great gear. At least two stars. Levitation at HS on the right hand side is also good but always freaks me out (after the crux oddly). The step across can leave some doomed for hours. Just go for it! The cheeky side of me also recommends Honeymoon Corner......!!!!!!

Eagles Nest at Luckey Tor is great fun at a crag in a beautiful setting. It's worth the walk from Dartmeet with swimming in the pools in August and September.

Workers Wall, Danedelion, Overhang Crack, Burdock etc at Sheepstor are good fun. As is Slanting Crack although that needs a committed approach and no faff with gear until after the crux.

But The Moors are not that welcoming in the autumn and winter for routes....

Red Walls at Berry Head has two nice HSs. Chastity Corner is great with a comedy and improbable starting sequence and sustained interest (which is why Rockfax might have given it VS I now see - bloody grade creep, thank God). Binky is not that well protected though.

Have fun.


davidalcock - on 27 Oct 2016
In reply to fire_munki:
Got my old Littlejohn/O'Sullivan 83 guide open. Levitation on the Low Man? That got HS, and don't recall it being tough.

Aramis HS, my only note is 'Ouch!'

Commando Crack at Vixen Tories (yes, VS but very soft, and I hear one has to be sneaky re access).

Climbers Club Ordinary at the Dewerstone. Another very soft VS. Another vote for CG - much easier than it looks. Leviathan, another soft VS.

Chudleigh: Sarcophagus - never VS. Perhaps Inkerman Groove, another VS that didn't feel like it.

(Edit, I know I'm being fuzzy with your parameters here, but all suggestions made in good faith.)
Post edited at 22:42
Cusco - on 28 Oct 2016
In reply to davidalcock:

There's some old timers reverse grade creep and good sandbagging here David!

The climbs have been those grades in all the guides since I started climbing in 91.

In fact Littlejohns SW climbs has Levitation Low Man at VS 4b.

Leviathan at Dewerstone is bench mark VS 4c.

IMHO Inkermann Groove is HVS 4c. The visiting Bill Birkett thought so in his Classic Climbs in Great Britain years ago and he knows a thing or two about grades around Britain.

I agree re. Aramis. Ouch indeed.

Aviation on the other hand is definitely HVS (OK - on a warm summers evening - but E1 on a cold windy day or in the morning - classic E0!).
davidalcock - on 28 Oct 2016
In reply to Cusco:

I was just looking at our younger selves scrawled comments in my old South Devon and Dartmouth guide... No intentional sandbagging. Maybe it's because that guide was half sandbags in the first place, and being young and impetuous with a very limited rack we knew no better.
davidalcock - on 28 Oct 2016
In reply to Cusco:

Ps, interesting our difference of opinion on Inkerman - I'll have to go back one day. Inkerman Direct is definitely tough HVS. Re Aramis... I was thoroughly sandbagged by an old SDMC member on that - I was only wearing shorts - jesus I must have been stubborn.
D Berry on 28 Oct 2016
In reply to Cusco:

> IMHO Inkermann Groove is HVS 4c. The visiting Bill Birkett thought so in his Classic Climbs in Great Britain years ago and he knows a thing or two about grades around Britain.

When I finally climbed this, rather than just continuing up Wogs, I was very glad of the gear in the corner and felt pretty gripped all the way up it, but don't really see the case for HVS. Not doubting the routes quality or obvious crux being the traverse, but that is short lived, slabby and the entire route is very well protected, leading to a bomber belay on good pegs that are easily backed up. Interesting as ever to hear these opinions mind and its certainly no pushover.
CaelanB - on 28 Oct 2016
In reply to fire_munki:

How has nobody suggested Demo Route (HS 4b) yet?
Kafoozalem - on 29 Oct 2016
In reply to D Berry:
Agreed, and nice to see the reasoned debate from Cusco and D Alcock.

Well at the moment with the new S Devon Limestone guidebook in production we have...

Chudleigh Overhang ........ HVS 4c (awkward, slippy and very easy to remove your gear during the struggle)
Great Western.....................VS 5a (though we all know that bloody mantle is nearly 5b). Super safe though.
Inkerman Groove ..............VS 4c (despite having the exposed aura of an HVS. If you are relaxed it is a VS).
zimpara - on 29 Oct 2016
In reply to Chris the Tall:


> Shangri-La may only be Severe but it's a cracker, and there's plenty of HSs and VSs there

And all of them are sea cliffs with chossy topouts.
Cheese Monkey - on 29 Oct 2016
In reply to zimpara:

So?
alan moore - on 29 Oct 2016
In reply to D Berry:

Found the traverse on Inkerman no harder than Wogs: a simple hand change in the stuck on jug. Getting lodged in the corner was harder and making the first move up the corner, harder still. HVS 5a, I thought for the final 30 feet of sustained, technical corner climbing.
Don't think having a bomber belay has any effect on the grade.....
Tom Last - on 29 Oct 2016
In reply to CaelanB:

"How has nobody suggested Demo Route (HS 4b) yet?"

A. It's not in Devon!

B. It's the most massively overrated route (in Cornwall)

;)
Post edited at 13:03
Tom Last - on 29 Oct 2016
In reply to CaelanB:

Apologies, just seen the OP asked for Devon AND Cornwall. Still overrated though ;)
The Ivanator - on 29 Oct 2016
In reply to fire_munki:
Doorpost (HS 4b) doesn't seem to have warranted a mention yet, multipitch, but non-tidal and awesome. If your head/experience is coming along then Flannel Avenue (HS 4b) and Pegasus (HS 4b) at Chair Ladder are brilliant. Wreckers' Slab (VS 4b) is fairly serious (hence the VS grade) but the climbing is very steady, I've heard it is likely to get HS in the forthcoming comprehensive guide.
Away from seacliffs Crack of Doone (HS 4b) and Icarus (HS 4a) are worth a look.
Post edited at 17:56
Mark Kemball - on 29 Oct 2016
In reply to The Ivanator:

Wreckers' Slab (VS 4b) is fairly serious (hence the VS grade) but the climbing is very steady, I've heard it is likely to get HS in the forthcoming comprehensive guide.

No, I will need a lot of persuasion to change the grade to HS! I feel the climbing is far too serious for that.
alan moore - on 29 Oct 2016
In reply to Mark Kemball:

Only done it once but thought Wreckers Slab was a serious HS 4a ( easier and less serious than Devil's Slide) rather than a serious VS 4b...
Mark Kemball - on 29 Oct 2016
In reply to alan moore:

I've climbed it several times and thought it reasonable at VS - technically straightforward but poor protection and a fair bit of loose rock - you have to be confident. The logbook voting gives it low VS and low 4b...
davidalcock - on 29 Oct 2016
In reply to alan moore:

> Found the traverse on Inkerman no harder than Wogs: a simple hand change in the stuck on jug. Getting lodged in the corner was harder and making the first move up the corner, harder still. HVS 5a, I thought for the final 30 feet of sustained, technical corner climbing.

I've been casting my mind back around 28 years... I recall we would start up Wogs, mostly without pro to stop rope drag on our single, and also to save our scarce gear, do the what felt like the relatively straightforward traverse, then take a belay at the foot ledge where the direct continues up the top part of the groove. Then it was just an easy romp up to the right, or straight up the direct if we felt like more of a challenge. I honestly can't recall that route ever feeling tough.

The mantel on Great Western was always amusing, but I vaguely remember there was a knack that made it easier.

Chudleigh Overhang, VS back then, climb up, slot in an eleven hex and go.

Happy and innocent times.

Al Evans on 30 Oct 2016
In reply to fire_munki:

What about Gates Of Eden, or is that not in the area?
davidalcock - on 30 Oct 2016
In reply to Al Evans:

The bottom fell down Al.
Cheese Monkey - on 30 Oct 2016
In reply to davidalcock:

Yeah steady at HVS now
Simon Caldwell - on 31 Oct 2016
In reply to Mark Kemball:

> I've climbed it several times and thought it reasonable at VS - technically straightforward but poor protection and a fair bit of loose rock - you have to be confident.

I've only done it once, but found virtually no loose rock, though the jenga tower at the start of the last pitch was distinctly worrying. I'd be happy with HS 4b (the 4b bit is short and well protected, the big runouts are 4a or easier) but can understand why it's given VS.
CaelanB - on 31 Oct 2016
In reply to Tom Last:

Personally I've never actually climbed it (sorry! but I live in NE scotland) I've just heard many great things and sort of expected someone to mention it almost immediately. So the only information I have is second hand.
Chris the Tall - on 31 Oct 2016
In reply to Mark Kemball:

> I've climbed it several times and thought it reasonable at VS - technically straightforward but poor protection and a fair bit of loose rock - you have to be confident. The logbook voting gives it low VS and low 4b...

Seems right to me - very soft for an experienced leader, and not quite as loose as I was expecting, but nonetheless it's not one you'd put down as "A good first VS"
GrahamD - on 31 Oct 2016
In reply to alan moore:

> Only done it once but thought Wreckers Slab was a serious HS 4a ( easier and less serious than Devil's Slide) rather than a serious VS 4b...

I'd agree. Gear and belays are pretty adequate and climbing barely 4a. Superb route though !
GrahamD - on 31 Oct 2016
In reply to zimpara:

> And all of them are sea cliffs with solid topouts.

Sorted that one for you.

Big Ger - on 31 Oct 2016
In reply to Cusco:

> Eagles Nest at Luckey Tor is great fun at a crag in a beautiful setting. It's worth the walk from Dartmeet with swimming in the pools in August and September.

Have to agree there, a lovely route, though only S, not HS. Or has it gone up in grade?
bleddynmawr - on 02 Nov 2016
In reply to fire_munki:

I know that it is a multi-pitch sea cliff route but The Devil's slide on Lundy has to be included. Superb climbing in a spectacular and beautiful setting.
jhobbs on 27 Nov 2016
In reply to fire_munki: I'm a HS leader as well. You can't go wrong with central groove. A bit further afield at bosigran, doorpost is absolute heaven and a gift at the grade. Also everything at baggy point - all the severes like Ben etc are just lovely.

JJL - on 28 Nov 2016
In reply to fire_munki:

Further down the line, get over to Lundy and do Integrity and Devils Slide.
derryclimbs - on 28 Nov 2016
In reply to fire_munki:

If you're head is a bit messed up at the moment I would avoid Chudleigh like the plague. Polished is an understatement and not great for your headspace.

Dewerstone much better as well as Houndtor and Sheepstor

I would also tentatively say Bosigran - non tidal sea cliff but right by the sea for the views. Doorpost (HS 4b) is a classic, but not after a bit of rain as the seepage will put you off your stride on the first pitch.

Always this tick list to go by: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=381
SC - on 28 Nov 2016
In reply to fire_munki:

Doorpost at Bosigran is really excellent. You won't go wrong with anything at Bosi.
Terriers Tooth are Chair Ladder is also excellent. Some of the other HS routes there are a bit intimidating though.
Central Groove at dewerstone is good. There's also a big open Corner to the left which I'm sure was HS and amazingly good.
The Ivanator - on 28 Nov 2016
In reply to SC:

> Central Groove at dewerstone is good. There's also a big open Corner to the left which I'm sure was HS and amazingly good.

I think the corner you are referring to is Leviathan (VS 4c), so one to graduate to after Central Groove has been confidently dispatched.
fire_munki on 28 Nov 2016
In reply to derryclimbs:
Nearly went to Chudleigh but well the rain is in down here.

Polish would be fun, Mark and James have both seen me struggle at the barn let alone on polished Chudleigh fun.

Hopefully it'll dry out soon and I can try some of them out.

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