This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
I'm in the process of collecting quotes for installation of an intruder alarm for our house. I'd welcome any informed advice that people might be able to offer about the following:
1) PIR vs window contact/vibration sensors. One quote has specified three window contact/vibration sensors for one particular room in the house. Another has specified just a PIR sensor to cover the whole room. FWIW one of the 'windows' is a sliding patio door, one is a fixed double glazed pane and the last one is an aging metal-framed sash window which is screwed shut. Would a contact/vibration sensor on the patio door plus a PIR for the room be a reasonable compromise? (We actually have two rooms with sliding patio doors, so I'd guess that the same 'best practice' approach should be applicable to both, all other things being equal.)
2) Monitored vs self-monitored. Self monitoring means no recurring fees. Either option seems to be vulnerable to the phone line being cut (it runs from under the eaves at the rear, across the back garden to a pole at the bottom of the garden). Apparently, backup options which use the mobile phone network(s) do exist, but at additional cost. One self-monitoring option is app-based, while another simply rings a given set of numbers until it gets a response, and allows the alarm to be reset remotely. I'm struggling to grasp the pros and cons of the various choices.
3) Disarming. I'm familiar with the keypad method from various offices I've worked in. Most of the quotes include proximity tags for disarming as well. I'm a little wary about these: the way I see it, they will likely end up being carried on the same keyring as the house keys, which means that if someone nicks your keys, they can disable the alarm too. That seems to me to defeat one purpose of having the alarm!
4) False alarms. I've been assured that the PIR sensors are "pet safe" - not that we have pets, although we do sometimes look after another family member's small dog. We do have an issue with birds sometimes flying in to the large windows - could something like a collision from a pigeon set off a contact/vibration sensor?
I'd be grateful for any relevant advice, experience or even amusing anecdotes from the UKC collective!
1) PIR vs window contact/vibration sensors. One quote has specified three window contact/vibration sensors for one particular room in the house. Another has specified just a PIR sensor to cover the whole room. FWIW one of the 'windows' is a sliding patio door, one is a fixed double glazed pane and the last one is an aging metal-framed sash window which is screwed shut. Would a contact/vibration sensor on the patio door plus a PIR for the room be a reasonable compromise? (We actually have two rooms with sliding patio doors, so I'd guess that the same 'best practice' approach should be applicable to both, all other things being equal.)
2) Monitored vs self-monitored. Self monitoring means no recurring fees. Either option seems to be vulnerable to the phone line being cut (it runs from under the eaves at the rear, across the back garden to a pole at the bottom of the garden). Apparently, backup options which use the mobile phone network(s) do exist, but at additional cost. One self-monitoring option is app-based, while another simply rings a given set of numbers until it gets a response, and allows the alarm to be reset remotely. I'm struggling to grasp the pros and cons of the various choices.
3) Disarming. I'm familiar with the keypad method from various offices I've worked in. Most of the quotes include proximity tags for disarming as well. I'm a little wary about these: the way I see it, they will likely end up being carried on the same keyring as the house keys, which means that if someone nicks your keys, they can disable the alarm too. That seems to me to defeat one purpose of having the alarm!
4) False alarms. I've been assured that the PIR sensors are "pet safe" - not that we have pets, although we do sometimes look after another family member's small dog. We do have an issue with birds sometimes flying in to the large windows - could something like a collision from a pigeon set off a contact/vibration sensor?
I'd be grateful for any relevant advice, experience or even amusing anecdotes from the UKC collective!
In reply to Martin W:
1) don't know, ours is almost entirely pir, maybe some contact sensors but no vibration sensors
I guess vibration sensors pick up attack on door/window before they get in but contact sensor only goes off when door/window opens.
2) monitoring is expensive, not sure if it is worth what we pay although they do an annual service visit.
the company engineers says (as they would) that the police only go to monitored alarms
3) the company engineers say the police insist on the tab for monitored systems so they're not bothered by false alarms when you are too pissed to use the keypad!
4) we don't have pets
If you are going to self-monitor why not do a DIY install of a wireless kit?
1) don't know, ours is almost entirely pir, maybe some contact sensors but no vibration sensors
I guess vibration sensors pick up attack on door/window before they get in but contact sensor only goes off when door/window opens.
2) monitoring is expensive, not sure if it is worth what we pay although they do an annual service visit.
the company engineers says (as they would) that the police only go to monitored alarms
3) the company engineers say the police insist on the tab for monitored systems so they're not bothered by false alarms when you are too pissed to use the keypad!
4) we don't have pets
If you are going to self-monitor why not do a DIY install of a wireless kit?
In reply to Martin W:
What do you actually want your alarm system to achieve?
They've always struck me as borderline pointless and certainly a nuisance.
jk
What do you actually want your alarm system to achieve?
They've always struck me as borderline pointless and certainly a nuisance.
jk
4
In reply to elsewhere:
Thanks for your thoughts.
All three installers that have been to our place so far have said that the police will only respond if two sensors have been triggered (if a neighbour calls the police when the external siren goes off I think the police ask them to check the property before they'll come out). The monitoring companies will call a keyholder if one sensor is triggered, and escalate the incident to the police if a second sensor is triggered. If I have understood it correctly, systems connected directly to the police ie not via a monitoring centre - and at significant cost - have to be programmed to wait until two sensors have been triggered before alerting the police. Contact/vibration sensor on the window plus PIR on the room = two sensors = the police should respond (so long as you haven't exceeded your false alarm threshold).
Interesting, I've not been told this. At least one of the systems proposed has keypad disarming as well. I'll check that all the systems proposed do have this option - and probably lock any proximity tags we do get in the safe!
Insurance requires the installation to have been done, or checked & certified by, a registered installer. (Also: I have things I'd much rather do with my time than faff around up ladders! Cash rich: time poor. That said, the quotes I've had so far aren't that much more expensive than a kit so they don't seem to be taking the p33 to badly on labour costs.)
Thanks for your thoughts.
> 2) monitoring is expensive, not sure if it is worth what we pay although they do an annual service visit.
> the company engineers says (as they would) that the police only go to monitored alarms
All three installers that have been to our place so far have said that the police will only respond if two sensors have been triggered (if a neighbour calls the police when the external siren goes off I think the police ask them to check the property before they'll come out). The monitoring companies will call a keyholder if one sensor is triggered, and escalate the incident to the police if a second sensor is triggered. If I have understood it correctly, systems connected directly to the police ie not via a monitoring centre - and at significant cost - have to be programmed to wait until two sensors have been triggered before alerting the police. Contact/vibration sensor on the window plus PIR on the room = two sensors = the police should respond (so long as you haven't exceeded your false alarm threshold).
> 3) the company engineers say the police insist on the tab for monitored systems so they're not bothered by false alarms when you are too pissed to use the keypad!
Interesting, I've not been told this. At least one of the systems proposed has keypad disarming as well. I'll check that all the systems proposed do have this option - and probably lock any proximity tags we do get in the safe!
> If you are going to self-monitor why not do a DIY install of a wireless kit?
Insurance requires the installation to have been done, or checked & certified by, a registered installer. (Also: I have things I'd much rather do with my time than faff around up ladders! Cash rich: time poor. That said, the quotes I've had so far aren't that much more expensive than a kit so they don't seem to be taking the p33 to badly on labour costs.)
In reply to Martin W:
Does that imply that you are getting some insurance benefit (e.g. discount?) from having the thing fitted? If so, what happens if you forget to set it, go out, and then get burgled? Does the insurer disown you? Might be worth confirming.
Generally I agree with jkarran's question and comments above, by the way.
> Insurance requires the installation to have been done, or checked & certified by, a registered installer. ...
Does that imply that you are getting some insurance benefit (e.g. discount?) from having the thing fitted? If so, what happens if you forget to set it, go out, and then get burgled? Does the insurer disown you? Might be worth confirming.
Generally I agree with jkarran's question and comments above, by the way.
In reply to jkarran:
It's mainly to satisfy our insurers. There's also the fact that every other house in the street has an alarm - or at least a siren box - so it's partly also not wanting to appear to be the soft target. We could just stick up a dummy box but that wouldn't keep the insurers happy if the worst did happen.
(I am aware of some minor vulnerabilities on our perimeter which would cost significantly more to remedy than an alarm system would, so there's also an element of putting some mitigation in place for those risks.)
> What do you actually want your alarm system to achieve?
It's mainly to satisfy our insurers. There's also the fact that every other house in the street has an alarm - or at least a siren box - so it's partly also not wanting to appear to be the soft target. We could just stick up a dummy box but that wouldn't keep the insurers happy if the worst did happen.
(I am aware of some minor vulnerabilities on our perimeter which would cost significantly more to remedy than an alarm system would, so there's also an element of putting some mitigation in place for those risks.)
In reply to Rob Parsons:
Don't worry, I've been reading the voluminous policy documentation very carefully!
> Does that imply that you are getting some insurance benefit (e.g. discount?) from having the thing fitted? If so, what happens if you forget to set it, go out, and then get burgled? Does the insurer disown you? Might be worth confirming.
Don't worry, I've been reading the voluminous policy documentation very carefully!
In reply to Martin W:
An alarm is only one part of the security system, and I feel not the biggest, but some disagree.
A burgler can be in and out in 10 mins. How long will it take a neighbour or the police to call round?
I've always thought that you should make the place look as unappealing to burglers as possible. In my house, the wife and kids help to do that by making such a mess that nothing is findable in 10 mins.
Locks. Get good quality ones, but make sure they are in good quality doors and windows. A spiky bush in front of a window is always a good deterrant. Try to make sure the good stuff is out of sight where possible. Remember half a brick through a window can defeat even the best lock.
Gates and fences are jump overable, or easy ways to the back of the house where nobody can see... Can you improve them? roses along the fence may be a good idea? Lock the gate. Lock the shed.
Will the shed contain anything to help someone get into the house? if so move it or secure it.
Keep keys out of sight, preferably locked up. I hear house breakins are often for car keys, so get the habit of hiding them out of sight.
Round our way, alarms are generally ignored. I have quite a good system but doubt it will really deter anyone from 10 mins work. I do however have securely locked gates and high rickety fences to slow them down. I accept that someone will get in if they want to, so I have cameras. High up and recording to a secret place. At least I'll get a picture of the buggers as they enter and leave.
Until you have done all the steps you can to make the place at least as secure as your neighbours, don't bother with the alarm as it's a false sense of security and another thing to go wrong.
Look at your house and think "how would I get in if I'd lost my keys". Fix that problem first. Then do it again until you are down to locksmiths or smashing windows.
Maybe to answer your questions, Fobs are great, especially with house guests. (Unless you are my Mother in Law who cannot get the hang of touching one piece of plastic to another and listening for the beep.) Monitored is great, but only if the police turn up in time. I know people in very expensive Edinburgh who swear by them. -Have you thought about communicating alarms which call a number? I fitted a Yale many years ago which was quite good, you could even arm/disarm it remotely.
False alarms happen. you just have to hope not that often.
Wired is better than wireless. always, for everything electrical.(almost)
An alarm is only one part of the security system, and I feel not the biggest, but some disagree.
A burgler can be in and out in 10 mins. How long will it take a neighbour or the police to call round?
I've always thought that you should make the place look as unappealing to burglers as possible. In my house, the wife and kids help to do that by making such a mess that nothing is findable in 10 mins.
Locks. Get good quality ones, but make sure they are in good quality doors and windows. A spiky bush in front of a window is always a good deterrant. Try to make sure the good stuff is out of sight where possible. Remember half a brick through a window can defeat even the best lock.
Gates and fences are jump overable, or easy ways to the back of the house where nobody can see... Can you improve them? roses along the fence may be a good idea? Lock the gate. Lock the shed.
Will the shed contain anything to help someone get into the house? if so move it or secure it.
Keep keys out of sight, preferably locked up. I hear house breakins are often for car keys, so get the habit of hiding them out of sight.
Round our way, alarms are generally ignored. I have quite a good system but doubt it will really deter anyone from 10 mins work. I do however have securely locked gates and high rickety fences to slow them down. I accept that someone will get in if they want to, so I have cameras. High up and recording to a secret place. At least I'll get a picture of the buggers as they enter and leave.
Until you have done all the steps you can to make the place at least as secure as your neighbours, don't bother with the alarm as it's a false sense of security and another thing to go wrong.
Look at your house and think "how would I get in if I'd lost my keys". Fix that problem first. Then do it again until you are down to locksmiths or smashing windows.
Maybe to answer your questions, Fobs are great, especially with house guests. (Unless you are my Mother in Law who cannot get the hang of touching one piece of plastic to another and listening for the beep.) Monitored is great, but only if the police turn up in time. I know people in very expensive Edinburgh who swear by them. -Have you thought about communicating alarms which call a number? I fitted a Yale many years ago which was quite good, you could even arm/disarm it remotely.
False alarms happen. you just have to hope not that often.
Wired is better than wireless. always, for everything electrical.(almost)
1
In reply to markAut:
Thanks for your comprehensive response. Rest assured, the other security aspects you highlight have been or are in the process of being addressed. This question is specifically about intruder alarms, about which I have very little experience compared to straightforward physical security like locks, keys, safes, keysafes etc etc.
Fobs being useful for house guests: I can see the argument here, although I'd still be concerned about both the fob and the key you'd lent them being on the same keyring (though they would be less likely to be carrying something which identified the address they belonged to, I suppose.) Ski chalets I've stayed in have usually either told each batch of new guests the door code (but usually not changing it very often, so by the end of the season half the resort is likely to know it and can come and go as they please!) or handing out a limited number of physical keys, which can end up with people being locked out due to having become separated from their party, keys being lost and so on. I'm not sure there are any easy, foolproof answers to this one.
Communicating alarms: yes, this has been proposed by one installer. He pointed out that the landline is then a point of vulnerability, unless the alarm has mobile network access as well. I guess it comes down to a question of trying to keep the mitigation proportionate to the risk (so taking into account likelihood, impact etc).
Re neighbour response: fortunately we have good neighbours over the road who are pretty smart at keeping an eye on what's going on on the street. One benefit of living in an area with a highish proportion of retired persons! We don't have a local neighbourhood watch, though the insurance companies always seem to ask about it. It's never been clear to me what the point of it is: it just seems like paperwork for the sake of it - might as well just have strategically placed signs saying, "Warning: nosey neighbours!"
Thanks for your comprehensive response. Rest assured, the other security aspects you highlight have been or are in the process of being addressed. This question is specifically about intruder alarms, about which I have very little experience compared to straightforward physical security like locks, keys, safes, keysafes etc etc.
Fobs being useful for house guests: I can see the argument here, although I'd still be concerned about both the fob and the key you'd lent them being on the same keyring (though they would be less likely to be carrying something which identified the address they belonged to, I suppose.) Ski chalets I've stayed in have usually either told each batch of new guests the door code (but usually not changing it very often, so by the end of the season half the resort is likely to know it and can come and go as they please!) or handing out a limited number of physical keys, which can end up with people being locked out due to having become separated from their party, keys being lost and so on. I'm not sure there are any easy, foolproof answers to this one.
Communicating alarms: yes, this has been proposed by one installer. He pointed out that the landline is then a point of vulnerability, unless the alarm has mobile network access as well. I guess it comes down to a question of trying to keep the mitigation proportionate to the risk (so taking into account likelihood, impact etc).
Re neighbour response: fortunately we have good neighbours over the road who are pretty smart at keeping an eye on what's going on on the street. One benefit of living in an area with a highish proportion of retired persons! We don't have a local neighbourhood watch, though the insurance companies always seem to ask about it. It's never been clear to me what the point of it is: it just seems like paperwork for the sake of it - might as well just have strategically placed signs saying, "Warning: nosey neighbours!"
In reply to Martin W:
Perhaps you should think about what will happen when you no longer want it. We've got one left by a previous owner that we don't want. I haven't priced it exactly, but I don't see how our insurance could be reduced enough to pay for the phone line/ monitoring those charlatans want to charge. They would also like to charge us a fortune to disable the thing. No Electrition will touch it, so we live in fear that the thing will go off for days while we are on holiday.
I don't know what kind of fear motivated the people to buy such a silly thing but I don't feel it.
Perhaps you should think about what will happen when you no longer want it. We've got one left by a previous owner that we don't want. I haven't priced it exactly, but I don't see how our insurance could be reduced enough to pay for the phone line/ monitoring those charlatans want to charge. They would also like to charge us a fortune to disable the thing. No Electrition will touch it, so we live in fear that the thing will go off for days while we are on holiday.
I don't know what kind of fear motivated the people to buy such a silly thing but I don't feel it.
1
In reply to markAut:
would agree, we were asked if we had an alarm on our insurance renewal, we said why, would it help? Nearest neighbour nearby 1km away and police probably 40mins plus. I prefer to have some physically stuff, they say an intruder will dislike noise and light, so I've got alarms on workshop doors triggering super loud sirens etc... plus the locks and metal plating will require some power tools to even get the door open. The house, decent locks, lighting around it and finally a mobile alarm system that will hear, smell and see... a dog.
A box on the wall with a flashing light and live link would be a waste of money as it doesn't impact the end result. imho.
I have heard of thieves taking out security lights the evening before with an air rifle etc.. so if a light stops working, don't presume it's just the bulb or sensor.
> An alarm is only one part of the security system, and I feel not the biggest, but some disagree.
> A burgler can be in and out in 10 mins. How long will it take a neighbour or the police to call round?
> A burgler can be in and out in 10 mins. How long will it take a neighbour or the police to call round?
would agree, we were asked if we had an alarm on our insurance renewal, we said why, would it help? Nearest neighbour nearby 1km away and police probably 40mins plus. I prefer to have some physically stuff, they say an intruder will dislike noise and light, so I've got alarms on workshop doors triggering super loud sirens etc... plus the locks and metal plating will require some power tools to even get the door open. The house, decent locks, lighting around it and finally a mobile alarm system that will hear, smell and see... a dog.
A box on the wall with a flashing light and live link would be a waste of money as it doesn't impact the end result. imho.
I have heard of thieves taking out security lights the evening before with an air rifle etc.. so if a light stops working, don't presume it's just the bulb or sensor.
In reply to jkarran:
Most people want them to achieve the outcome of their neighbour's house being robbed instead
> What do you actually want your alarm system to achieve?
Most people want them to achieve the outcome of their neighbour's house being robbed instead
2
In reply to Martin W:
We have a wireless kit installed - can't remember the make, but can check when I get home.
1 - we have PIR sensors - anyone breaking in would have to go past at least one of these to get to anything of value. The sensors run on batteries - if the battery runs down, the control box flashes a warning. Any attempt to tamper with the sensors and the control box knows about it.
The system we have uses "zones", so you can only arm parts of the house, or the whole lot - great for bedtime, as we can arm downstairs and can then roam freely upstairs.
We also have panic buttons that can be carried in the house that trigger the alarm, whether it's turned on, or not.
2 - we used to be on a contract for monitoring, we aren't anymore. To be honest, we only really use the alarm when I'm away or we're all on holiday. On advice from my insurance broker, we'd only get a tiny discount for declaring it and it would render the policy null and void if it's not set when we're not at home. You can't easily get to our house without being spotted, anyway.
3 - Keypad on the control box.
4 - We shut the cat in the kitchen at night/when the alarm is on, which doesn't have a sensor for that reason. Anyone breaking in via the kitchen would trigger the hall sensor as soon as they opened the door.
We have a wireless kit installed - can't remember the make, but can check when I get home.
1 - we have PIR sensors - anyone breaking in would have to go past at least one of these to get to anything of value. The sensors run on batteries - if the battery runs down, the control box flashes a warning. Any attempt to tamper with the sensors and the control box knows about it.
The system we have uses "zones", so you can only arm parts of the house, or the whole lot - great for bedtime, as we can arm downstairs and can then roam freely upstairs.
We also have panic buttons that can be carried in the house that trigger the alarm, whether it's turned on, or not.
2 - we used to be on a contract for monitoring, we aren't anymore. To be honest, we only really use the alarm when I'm away or we're all on holiday. On advice from my insurance broker, we'd only get a tiny discount for declaring it and it would render the policy null and void if it's not set when we're not at home. You can't easily get to our house without being spotted, anyway.
3 - Keypad on the control box.
4 - We shut the cat in the kitchen at night/when the alarm is on, which doesn't have a sensor for that reason. Anyone breaking in via the kitchen would trigger the hall sensor as soon as they opened the door.
In reply to Jimbocz:
I'd turn it off. The alarm will belong to me, and the monitoring company (if I go down that route) will do as their customer (ie me) requires within the terms of their contact (which must, by law, be fair and reasonable).
I obviously don't know the details of your situation but it sounds as if you're being given a whole lot of runaround by someone - for which you have my sympathies.
> Perhaps you should think about what will happen when you no longer want it.
I'd turn it off. The alarm will belong to me, and the monitoring company (if I go down that route) will do as their customer (ie me) requires within the terms of their contact (which must, by law, be fair and reasonable).
I obviously don't know the details of your situation but it sounds as if you're being given a whole lot of runaround by someone - for which you have my sympathies.
1
In reply to Martin W:
Pretty much what we've been told.
Ours has keypad arming plus tab AND keypad for disarming
I think it makes bugger all difference to insurance but I may be wrong.
> Thanks for your thoughts.
> All three installers that have been to our place so far have said that the police will only respond if two sensors have been triggered (if a neighbour calls the police when the external siren goes off I think the police ask them to check the property before they'll come out). The monitoring companies will call a keyholder if one sensor is triggered, and escalate the incident to the police if a second sensor is triggered. If I have understood it correctly, systems connected directly to the police ie not via a monitoring centre - and at significant cost - have to be programmed to wait until two sensors have been triggered before alerting the police. Contact/vibration sensor on the window plus PIR on the room = two sensors = the police should respond (so long as you haven't exceeded your false alarm threshold).
Pretty much what we've been told.
> Interesting, I've not been told this. At least one of the systems proposed has keypad disarming as well. I'll check that all the systems proposed do have this option - and probably lock any proximity tags we do get in the safe!
Ours has keypad arming plus tab AND keypad for disarming
> Insurance requires the installation to have been done, or checked & certified by, a registered installer. (Also: I have things I'd much rather do with my time than faff around up ladders! Cash rich: time poor. That said, the quotes I've had so far aren't that much more expensive than a kit so they don't seem to be taking the p33 to badly on labour costs.)
I think it makes bugger all difference to insurance but I may be wrong.
In reply to Martin W:
I've fitted a wired alarm in our house and a wireless alarm in our Daughters house. Neither are monitored, I don't think it's worth it TBH and I'm not sure how effective they are with regards to being responded to anyway. Our neighbours have our key and know the code for the alarm as well. So no nuisance is caused by our alarm going off.
Both alarms only have PIRs. I'm not a fan of contacts, the fixings may come loose over time and you need to be quite accurate in placing both parts of it in the first place. (Don't like drilling PVC windows and doors) I position the PIRs in positions where I think an intruder will break in. Or, where an intruder has to move to to steal something. The wireless system has key fobs and a internal key pad, but ours has a keypad only. Both work fine, my Daughter has her fob on here car keys. The wireless system was a doddle to fit, but the key pad needs to be near a power supply, other than that it's very good.
I did inform our insurance company I'd had a alarm installed and the lady on the phone asked who installed it, she laughed when I told her it was me. I explained to her that there was no way I was going to pay to have an alarm fitted and tested by someone else when I'm an Electrician. It made no difference to the price of our policy.
"Pet alley" means that the PIR sensor send out a horizontal beam a certain height off the ground, rather than a overall beam. I only set those PIRs to pet alley where the Cat may have been able to break that beam by climbing on something and we shut the Cat out of those other rooms where we didn't set pet alley. She could still get out the cat flap without breaking a beam.
We only set our alarm when we all go out, we have two large Dogs and if they are left in the house while we pop out, I doubt anyone would break in with them making the racket they make and I'm pretty certain Tess would bite an intruder if one did get in, so good deterrents.
I've fitted a wired alarm in our house and a wireless alarm in our Daughters house. Neither are monitored, I don't think it's worth it TBH and I'm not sure how effective they are with regards to being responded to anyway. Our neighbours have our key and know the code for the alarm as well. So no nuisance is caused by our alarm going off.
Both alarms only have PIRs. I'm not a fan of contacts, the fixings may come loose over time and you need to be quite accurate in placing both parts of it in the first place. (Don't like drilling PVC windows and doors) I position the PIRs in positions where I think an intruder will break in. Or, where an intruder has to move to to steal something. The wireless system has key fobs and a internal key pad, but ours has a keypad only. Both work fine, my Daughter has her fob on here car keys. The wireless system was a doddle to fit, but the key pad needs to be near a power supply, other than that it's very good.
I did inform our insurance company I'd had a alarm installed and the lady on the phone asked who installed it, she laughed when I told her it was me. I explained to her that there was no way I was going to pay to have an alarm fitted and tested by someone else when I'm an Electrician. It made no difference to the price of our policy.
"Pet alley" means that the PIR sensor send out a horizontal beam a certain height off the ground, rather than a overall beam. I only set those PIRs to pet alley where the Cat may have been able to break that beam by climbing on something and we shut the Cat out of those other rooms where we didn't set pet alley. She could still get out the cat flap without breaking a beam.
We only set our alarm when we all go out, we have two large Dogs and if they are left in the house while we pop out, I doubt anyone would break in with them making the racket they make and I'm pretty certain Tess would bite an intruder if one did get in, so good deterrents.
In reply to Martin W:
Yes almost certainly. Main cause of false alarms in our house is when closing windows protected by vibration sensors.
> 4) ..... We do have an issue with birds sometimes flying in to the large windows - could something like a collision from a pigeon set off a contact/vibration sensor?
Yes almost certainly. Main cause of false alarms in our house is when closing windows protected by vibration sensors.
In reply to elsewhere:
One of the *downsides* of alarms is that if you tell the insurance company you have one (for a minimal reduction in premium) you may end up being not covered if you at some point don't have it turned on and are burgled.
> I think it makes bugger all difference to insurance but I may be wrong.
One of the *downsides* of alarms is that if you tell the insurance company you have one (for a minimal reduction in premium) you may end up being not covered if you at some point don't have it turned on and are burgled.
In reply to Martin W:
After the misses watched the neighbours over the road getting burgled at 4pm (only house in the street without an alarm) I got rid of my very complicated alarm system and installed the Yale £100 system from screwfix, it only took 2 hrs.
Plus i bought this http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/swann-dvr4-4400-4-channel-ahd-500gb-cctv-kit-with... and it took 2 of us 2hrs to install.
Chris
After the misses watched the neighbours over the road getting burgled at 4pm (only house in the street without an alarm) I got rid of my very complicated alarm system and installed the Yale £100 system from screwfix, it only took 2 hrs.
Plus i bought this http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/swann-dvr4-4400-4-channel-ahd-500gb-cctv-kit-with... and it took 2 of us 2hrs to install.
Chris
In reply to JJL:
Definitely. I think the best thing is to say "yes we have an alarm that we do not use".
If alarms really worked there would be a substantial discount.
Definitely. I think the best thing is to say "yes we have an alarm that we do not use".
If alarms really worked there would be a substantial discount.
In reply to Martin W:
When we got broken into the police pretty much told us it was our own fault for inviting them in by being one of the only houses without an alarm (parents had the same experience).
I can not put into words how vulnerable I felt after coming home alone late at night to an empty hose and going through the realization that we had been broken into, then having to go round every room checking to ensure that they had left.
When we got broken into the police pretty much told us it was our own fault for inviting them in by being one of the only houses without an alarm (parents had the same experience).
I can not put into words how vulnerable I felt after coming home alone late at night to an empty hose and going through the realization that we had been broken into, then having to go round every room checking to ensure that they had left.
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Elsewhere on the site
Loading Notifications...