UKC

Hi

Heading to pembroke for a trip and would like to try and squeeze some climbing in. Going with a friend who has some experience belaying but can only climb up to severe really and can't abseil.

Are there any crags that would be suitable for an afternoon of easy, non serious climbing, ideally overlooking the sea- i know this asking a lot and isn't really what pembroke is but a little climbing is better than none. I may also do some deep water solo if there is a crag which can do both. Long walk ins would be find as we will be doing a lot of coastal walking anyway.

Porth-Clais looks like it might be perfect?
Also maybe Pen-y-Cyfrwy although it looks a little short.

Any help would be appreciated.

In reply to alex goodall:

Saddle Head would probably suit. The area under the MOD building has a big, non-tidal ledge that you can scramble down to and various short-ish routes around that grade. Lovely outlook too, though that hardly needs saying in Pembroke!

The scramble down to the ledge is the only question mark. One section is mildly exposed. The other option is setting up an abseil.

In reply to alex goodall:
Porth-y-ffynnon, Caerfai, St. Davids Head south, even Barcud all accessible by simple scrambling and between them offering plenty of lighthearted fun at anything between Diff and Severe with good belays at the top. Many of the shorter crags still seem to offer very worthwhile pitches at a good variety of grades without significant access problems. Have fun! John.

Caerfai Bay

You have to ab in but is is easy and most of the easy stuff is non tidal

In reply to alex goodall:

Try Crystal Slabs, easy scramble in. The routes are good but a bit samey

In reply to alex goodall:

You most certainly don't need to ab in at Caerfai at many states of the tide, and the easiest escape route is very easy. The scramble down goes down to the right (north) from the obvious gearing up point and comes back south along massive ledges and minor zawns. Abbing is an easy option, but by no means necessary if you check the tide and plan accordingly. John.

In reply to alex goodall:
Some great suggestions already, in south Pembrokseshire id add Newton Head upper tier (awesome dws underneath) it has a walk in.
Second saddle head, better to abb but not necessary.
In north Pembrokeshire, all the ones mentioned already plus:
Organ pipes (not amazing but walkable at low tide and lots of easy routes.
Pen y Cyfrwr is ok, one of the crags is non tidal which is a bonus, and there's a bit of dws there too.
Definitely check out st David's head south buttress. Walk in (high tide is ok but not in swell) lovely spot, and dws there too!
The scramble into caerfai isn't really recommended, super exposed and pretty loose in places, it'll only take another big storm to collapse the blocks. Awesome crag tho!
Get your mate abseiling and you'll obviously have a way better time!
Have a good one!

In reply to alex goodall:

There is an upper tier at I think Newton head which is perfect for this sort of thing. Easy access and nice climbing

In reply to 3leggeddog:


Good venue, but the climbing is probably harder than the OP wanted (mostly VS/HVS). As others have said getting your mate familiar with abseiling will really open up your options. You can ab first and back up an inexperienced abseiler from below effectively with a simple Fireman's Belay (google it if you are unfamiliar).
Lots of good suggestions already, but if you get abseiling then No match for crag id:2791 is a great little venue. If you are in the North then No match for crag id:3959 offers great deep water soloing, although you wouldn't catch me on anything I might fall off till next July at least!