In reply to Robert Durran:
I thought E3 6a, but I know some people who did it this autumn and they thought it was harder than this (mutterings of E5), as it's so sustained. Think lots of E3 5c? They also found getting off it pretty tricky and went wrong on the ridge, though I don't remember that being difficult. The issue for us in July was hard-packed snow in the gully, though we managed to dagger across it using rocks as ice axes.
The approach has a reputation and we went wrong the first time crossing the logjams way too early. It took us ages to get up there, especially as we had a tent etc. I think if you've recced it as far as the initial river crossing, then it's fine to do it in a day from the valley, but you'd have to be fit and certainly we noticed the altitude by the time we reached the base of the cliff. Personally, bivying makes it a way more enjoyable outing, plus you've the option of stashing your bivi gear, walking out and then returning for another route a day later (what we did).
Post edited at 09:49
Our Friday Night Video this week is from the Reel Rock Tour (2010). Climbing legend Peter Croft mentors boulderer Lisa Rands on the finer points of alpine free climbing during an ascent of Venturi Effect, Croft's spectacular route on The Incredible Hulk, in California's Sierra Nevada. 
