/ NEWS: FRI NIGHT VID: Croft and Rands on The Hulk

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UKC News - on 11 Nov 2016
Origins - The Hulk, 2 kbOur Friday Night Video this week is from the Reel Rock Tour (2010). Climbing legend Peter Croft mentors boulderer Lisa Rands on the finer points of alpine free climbing during an ascent of Venturi Effect, Croft's spectacular route on The Incredible Hulk, in California's Sierra Nevada. 

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middlevern - on 11 Nov 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Inspiring stuff. What a route. Thanks for putting it up to watch.
Mick Ward - on 11 Nov 2016
In reply to middlevern:

A really lovely film. Agree, thanks for putting it up. Obviously Lisa Rands is an incredible boulderer but (and I'm sure she'd be the first to agree) the chance to see Peter Croft in action is... something very special indeed.

Mick
thermal_t - on 11 Nov 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Really enjoyed this! Thanks!
pneame on 11 Nov 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Good grief Peter Croft is fast. And what a good lesson in bridging
manwithacam - on 11 Nov 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Ah, what refreshingly simple, lovely, inspiring film, thank you
Fraser on 12 Nov 2016
In reply to UKC News:

So good.
jon on 12 Nov 2016
In reply to pneame:

> Good grief Peter Croft is fast. And what a good lesson in bridging

And shaving...
olddirtydoggy - on 12 Nov 2016
In reply to UKC News:

There's tons of these vids and too many are just vacuous rubbish but somehow this was head and shoulders above the rest. Great link, thank you.
Robert Durran - on 12 Nov 2016
In reply to UKC News:

That vdeo is always more than worth watching, not least to remind me to keep The Hulk right up there on my hit list!
Christheclimber - on 12 Nov 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Excellent video, good to see the legendary Peter Croft in action.
Brendan - on 13 Nov 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Smashing video (sorry).
biped - on 13 Nov 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Really enjoyed that. Inspiring.
ralphio - on 13 Nov 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Thanks. Really enjoyed that.
Robert Durran - on 14 Nov 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Why on earth the dislikes for my earlier post? I am inspired by a great little film - what is there to dislike? Some people.......
jon on 14 Nov 2016
In reply to Robert Durran:

Can only think because of your wording, implying that you'd seen it before? Which isn't surprising, of course, as it's at least five years old.
C Witter on 19 Nov 2016
In reply to UKC News:

Sweaty hands watching Lisa Rands getting gripped and putting in some slightly dodgy cam placements... Thought the one that caught her might have ripped, but I guess it was better than it looked to me. Really enjoyable vid!
Rick Graham on 19 Nov 2016
In reply to C Witter:

> Sweaty hands watching Lisa Rands getting gripped and putting in some slightly dodgy cam placements... Thought the one that caught her might have ripped, but I guess it was better than it looked to me. Really enjoyable vid!

Not slightly dodgy cam placements ! but very dodgy.

So much so that I got the impression it was a bit staged for the camera, I expected every cam to rip.

Good video, enjoyed it, real enthusiasm for the rock and climbing, even managed to avoid the often cringeworthy style of a lot of US climbing vids.
C Witter on 23 Nov 2016
In reply to Rick Graham:
Ha! I'm glad you agree. I didn't want to put 'very dodgy' in case someone said "Bah! You've obviously never climbed anything proper hard, where you've got to trust everything to two lobes stuffed in a flared pin scar! This one time I ripped off my big toe nail, fashioned its hoary mass into a skyhook and clipped it. 50m runout below. Go call the safety police, why doncha?"

Anyway, for me it seemed authentic - the panic as the pump starts to burn and you know that the strength that keeps you bluffing through, despite bad technique and fear in your gut, is going to give out on you...

p.s. on Americanisms, almost didn't watch this because of the "Incredible Hulk" title... Is that really the crag name??!
Post edited at 21:12
pencilled in on 23 Nov 2016
In reply to C Witter:
I was recommended The Hulk when I had Astroman aspirations. As Mr Durran says up there, this is a pretty good reminder why.
Post edited at 21:15
In reply to pencilled in:
It's a beautiful cliff. Interestingly I went there in July 2005, a couple of months before the first recorded ascent of Venturi Effect. We had a topo though so maybe they did it with some aid first? I remember seeing some stashed gear at the base and we visited Croft afterwards (we repeated Airstream and did the first 7 pitches of VE but were knackered so bailed from the bivy ledge). Anyway, I'd agree that the Book of Secrets pitch is one of the most incredible pitches anywhere. My partner, Nic Sellers, on-sighted it and I was chuffed to second it clean w/o falls carrying a small pack. One to go back for!

As I say to everyone, Positive Vibrations (5.11a) is one of the best routes of the grade I've done anywhere in the world. You can do it from the valley if you're fit, but bivying up there is pretty special.
Post edited at 12:03
Robert Durran - on 25 Nov 2016
In reply to Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe:

> As I say to everyone, Positive Vibrations (5.11a) is one of the best routes of the grade I've done anywhere in the world. You can do it from the valley if you're fit, but bivying up there is pretty special.

What UK grade would you give Positive Vibrations?

I once walked in to the Hulk for the day but somehow incompetently messed up in the dark and ended up on the wrong side of the river and failed to cross to the crag......Oops...... Biviing next time!

In reply to Robert Durran:
I thought E3 6a, but I know some people who did it this autumn and they thought it was harder than this (mutterings of E5), as it's so sustained. Think lots of E3 5c? They also found getting off it pretty tricky and went wrong on the ridge, though I don't remember that being difficult. The issue for us in July was hard-packed snow in the gully, though we managed to dagger across it using rocks as ice axes.

The approach has a reputation and we went wrong the first time crossing the logjams way too early. It took us ages to get up there, especially as we had a tent etc. I think if you've recced it as far as the initial river crossing, then it's fine to do it in a day from the valley, but you'd have to be fit and certainly we noticed the altitude by the time we reached the base of the cliff. Personally, bivying makes it a way more enjoyable outing, plus you've the option of stashing your bivi gear, walking out and then returning for another route a day later (what we did).
Post edited at 09:49
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Robert Durran - on 25 Nov 2016
In reply to Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe:

Thanks. Really useful info.

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