This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
It's that weird bit of the year between Christmas and New Year when you're not sure what to do with yourself and you can't always remember what day it is, so why not take a few minutes to think over the events of the last year and see what you have (or haven't) achieved.
Link to last years thread started by the much missed Nick Russell: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=631723
For those of you who have been around since last year, it might be interesting to see if any goals you set for yourself 12 months ago match up with what you have been doing all year.
For the newcomers, let us know what you have been up to this year and tell us what you hope to achieve in 2017.
All posts are welcome, from one-liners to essays, but remember that the more information you note down this year, the more you can laugh at how naive you were when it comes around next year!
Link to last years thread started by the much missed Nick Russell: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=631723
For those of you who have been around since last year, it might be interesting to see if any goals you set for yourself 12 months ago match up with what you have been doing all year.
For the newcomers, let us know what you have been up to this year and tell us what you hope to achieve in 2017.
All posts are welcome, from one-liners to essays, but remember that the more information you note down this year, the more you can laugh at how naive you were when it comes around next year!
7
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan.
Looking at plans, my massively ambitious list was:
- V6/7 in Albarracin, Bishop and at home. Try a local V8
- get on Infinite Gravity. Also try fuel my fire, Cider soak, and some harder west coast 7s
- short trip 8a send. Maybe some onsighting if I can get a trip together
- trad goals as above, same as last year
- another adventure trip, back to wendenstock perhaps
- build on dws - swanage and Devon classics, push the boat out at lulworth.
- buy a house, do the Dragon Tour, other non climbing goals.
I managed:
- V6 in all 3 places, but no big classics in Bishop. Didn't do much other bouldering so nothing harder
- Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (7c) as my classic west coast 7, which was excellent
- a rematch with Wendenstock - whilst I still got spanked I'm far more pleased with how I got on
- did the Dragon Tour
- got the house sorted, did loads to the garden which was very satisfying, and am shortly due to become a dad.
I sort of managed:
- I got down into Blackers Hole, even if not on the route itself.
- I put some solid time into Cider Soak which I'm very keen for a rematch on
- a good effort on a short trip 8a send although no dice in the end
I didn't really do:
- any dws, really
- any hard trad - some E3s but nothing more
- any sport onsighting, really.
Overall a good year I think - plans adapted to circumstances and I feel relatively content with my climbing although trad did give me some frustrations over the year dealing with the amount of mileage I seemed to need to get into gear.
I've no ideas about goals, beyond first a generic one of not screwing up this whole parenting thing and second managing to keep the main plates in life (work, family&friendships, climbing) spinning and off the ground. There are lots of things I might like to try so maybe I'll write down a list of ambitions some point but necessarily assume that partial completion equals success.....
Cheers Dan.
Looking at plans, my massively ambitious list was:
- V6/7 in Albarracin, Bishop and at home. Try a local V8
- get on Infinite Gravity. Also try fuel my fire, Cider soak, and some harder west coast 7s
- short trip 8a send. Maybe some onsighting if I can get a trip together
- trad goals as above, same as last year
- another adventure trip, back to wendenstock perhaps
- build on dws - swanage and Devon classics, push the boat out at lulworth.
- buy a house, do the Dragon Tour, other non climbing goals.
I managed:
- V6 in all 3 places, but no big classics in Bishop. Didn't do much other bouldering so nothing harder
- Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (7c) as my classic west coast 7, which was excellent
- a rematch with Wendenstock - whilst I still got spanked I'm far more pleased with how I got on
- did the Dragon Tour
- got the house sorted, did loads to the garden which was very satisfying, and am shortly due to become a dad.
I sort of managed:
- I got down into Blackers Hole, even if not on the route itself.
- I put some solid time into Cider Soak which I'm very keen for a rematch on
- a good effort on a short trip 8a send although no dice in the end
I didn't really do:
- any dws, really
- any hard trad - some E3s but nothing more
- any sport onsighting, really.
Overall a good year I think - plans adapted to circumstances and I feel relatively content with my climbing although trad did give me some frustrations over the year dealing with the amount of mileage I seemed to need to get into gear.
I've no ideas about goals, beyond first a generic one of not screwing up this whole parenting thing and second managing to keep the main plates in life (work, family&friendships, climbing) spinning and off the ground. There are lots of things I might like to try so maybe I'll write down a list of ambitions some point but necessarily assume that partial completion equals success.....
5
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dan, good idea. I rejoined the day after that thread last year. My 2016 goals posted at the time were as follows - these were pretty ambitious given that my previous best grades were 7B and 7c and hadn't been on a sport rope for 18 months (although I knew I was very close to 7B+ in bouldering terms):
- Maintain a weight of around 11 stone (ideally 11 stone flat on a Sunday night, which implies 10 stone 12 when I wake up Monday morning - a couple of pounds more than this is acceptable though.)
- Jan/Feb: Jerry's Traverse (Cratcliffe) and at least 3 other grit 7Bs.
March: Do Crazy Horse (7B) and either Magic Bus or La Barre Fixe (7B+) in Font. After Font, do Moffatrocity if it's dry, or Wright's Traverse (7B) if Moff is still wet.
April: Moffatrocity if not done in March, then Eastwood Traverse (7B+). Start doing some limestone or Churnet bouldering in the evenings again once the clocks change.
May/June/July: Do a few more Font 7Bs on limestone or sandstone, and do Arch Enemies (F7c+)
August: Continue bouldering and, if Arch Enemies went well, try the moves on a couple of F8as (obvious candidates would be Powerplant or Free Monster)
September: Do the F8a.
October: Once finished (for good or bad) with the F8a, I'd like to try Paint it Black (Ft7C) at Blackwell Dale.
November/December: Finish off Paint it Black if it feels doable and stays dry for long enough. Then get on the grit, goals being a Ft7B+ and maybe try Tetris (Ft7C) if we have good weather/conditions.
The weight goal was a success up until the end of August. After a splurge in September/October it was harder work than expected to recover. I've made some good progress since late November but then this last week has been a disaster again(!)
The grit bouldering goal was a success - I had to postpone Jerry's Traverse due to shoulder issues but came back and did it last week. In Jan/Feb I think I did 4 7B/+s including Flatworld, my first 7B+.
Font was semi successful. I did Crazy Horse and another 7B but didn't get on Barre Fixe and couldn't do the crux move of Magic Bus. Good trip though.
I did Wright's Traverse and Moffatrocity. The latter meant a huge amount to me after all the effort I had put in (11 sessuons at the time.) This was a big success in ticking off my only major unfinished business from 2015.
Eastwood Traverse is the one that got away - after 12 or 13 sessions I still haven't done it, so it'll perhaps carry over in to 2017. I've fallen off trying to bring my feet across prior to matching the rail at least 5 or 6 times? Once I managed this but dropped it doing the match, something I hadn't expected (I think that was probably about session 8.) A frustrating experience if I'm honest, it really got in my head and became stressful to attempt; the one downer on the year.
Arch Enemies was interesting as my route endurance was a real unknown. I had tried it in summer 2014 but not got close. On first re-aquaintance I immediately felt much closer, which was great, but then proceeded to fall off the same move near the top for 3 whole sessions. It took some training advice and data comparisons with Ally and Andy, followed by 3 weeks of foot on campusing to improve my aerobic endurance, and suddenly then I did the route pretty easily.
Free Monster (first 8a) was great and went in only 4 sessions; it could feasibly have happened in 3. I was obviously really chuffed with this.
Paint it Black (first 7C) then took me a total of 10 sessions in October/November but was another big success. This was certainly much harder won than Free Monster if I'm honest, but the two achievements feel equivalent in my mind.
I did add another goal at one stage of doing another 7C, The Mentalist, but this I had to put off as I tweaked my right flexor unit on it. Another for the future maybe.
For this winter I've made a good start on the grit and Tetris is definitely still an aim. I'm pretty fed up with injuries right now but keeping things crossed that they'll clear up soon.
Overall a great year. I think the main achievements really have been realising the benefits of the strength gains I made from bouldering so much in 2015:
(1) in further increasing my bouldering grade by improved tactics and trying even harder/longer on my projects, (2)
(2) in finding that I could apply that increased strength effectively on a rope, and in finding a way to quickly fill out a bit of endurance to go with it (for which I'm really grateful to Ally and Andy - without their perspectives on my training I'm not sure I'd have managed either of the routes.)
Next year is a funny one. Eastwood is a goal if only because I want to get it done. I'd like to do Powerband and I want to have a good grit bouldering season and Font trip. Come the summer I should really be aiming to do another 8a and trying an 8a+, but life and work may well reduce my climbing time in comparison to the last two years, so I'm not yet sure.
Thanks fitclub for all the continued psyche and motivation!
Si
Thanks Dan, good idea. I rejoined the day after that thread last year. My 2016 goals posted at the time were as follows - these were pretty ambitious given that my previous best grades were 7B and 7c and hadn't been on a sport rope for 18 months (although I knew I was very close to 7B+ in bouldering terms):
- Maintain a weight of around 11 stone (ideally 11 stone flat on a Sunday night, which implies 10 stone 12 when I wake up Monday morning - a couple of pounds more than this is acceptable though.)
- Jan/Feb: Jerry's Traverse (Cratcliffe) and at least 3 other grit 7Bs.
March: Do Crazy Horse (7B) and either Magic Bus or La Barre Fixe (7B+) in Font. After Font, do Moffatrocity if it's dry, or Wright's Traverse (7B) if Moff is still wet.
April: Moffatrocity if not done in March, then Eastwood Traverse (7B+). Start doing some limestone or Churnet bouldering in the evenings again once the clocks change.
May/June/July: Do a few more Font 7Bs on limestone or sandstone, and do Arch Enemies (F7c+)
August: Continue bouldering and, if Arch Enemies went well, try the moves on a couple of F8as (obvious candidates would be Powerplant or Free Monster)
September: Do the F8a.
October: Once finished (for good or bad) with the F8a, I'd like to try Paint it Black (Ft7C) at Blackwell Dale.
November/December: Finish off Paint it Black if it feels doable and stays dry for long enough. Then get on the grit, goals being a Ft7B+ and maybe try Tetris (Ft7C) if we have good weather/conditions.
The weight goal was a success up until the end of August. After a splurge in September/October it was harder work than expected to recover. I've made some good progress since late November but then this last week has been a disaster again(!)
The grit bouldering goal was a success - I had to postpone Jerry's Traverse due to shoulder issues but came back and did it last week. In Jan/Feb I think I did 4 7B/+s including Flatworld, my first 7B+.
Font was semi successful. I did Crazy Horse and another 7B but didn't get on Barre Fixe and couldn't do the crux move of Magic Bus. Good trip though.
I did Wright's Traverse and Moffatrocity. The latter meant a huge amount to me after all the effort I had put in (11 sessuons at the time.) This was a big success in ticking off my only major unfinished business from 2015.
Eastwood Traverse is the one that got away - after 12 or 13 sessions I still haven't done it, so it'll perhaps carry over in to 2017. I've fallen off trying to bring my feet across prior to matching the rail at least 5 or 6 times? Once I managed this but dropped it doing the match, something I hadn't expected (I think that was probably about session 8.) A frustrating experience if I'm honest, it really got in my head and became stressful to attempt; the one downer on the year.
Arch Enemies was interesting as my route endurance was a real unknown. I had tried it in summer 2014 but not got close. On first re-aquaintance I immediately felt much closer, which was great, but then proceeded to fall off the same move near the top for 3 whole sessions. It took some training advice and data comparisons with Ally and Andy, followed by 3 weeks of foot on campusing to improve my aerobic endurance, and suddenly then I did the route pretty easily.
Free Monster (first 8a) was great and went in only 4 sessions; it could feasibly have happened in 3. I was obviously really chuffed with this.
Paint it Black (first 7C) then took me a total of 10 sessions in October/November but was another big success. This was certainly much harder won than Free Monster if I'm honest, but the two achievements feel equivalent in my mind.
I did add another goal at one stage of doing another 7C, The Mentalist, but this I had to put off as I tweaked my right flexor unit on it. Another for the future maybe.
For this winter I've made a good start on the grit and Tetris is definitely still an aim. I'm pretty fed up with injuries right now but keeping things crossed that they'll clear up soon.
Overall a great year. I think the main achievements really have been realising the benefits of the strength gains I made from bouldering so much in 2015:
(1) in further increasing my bouldering grade by improved tactics and trying even harder/longer on my projects, (2)
(2) in finding that I could apply that increased strength effectively on a rope, and in finding a way to quickly fill out a bit of endurance to go with it (for which I'm really grateful to Ally and Andy - without their perspectives on my training I'm not sure I'd have managed either of the routes.)
Next year is a funny one. Eastwood is a goal if only because I want to get it done. I'd like to do Powerband and I want to have a good grit bouldering season and Font trip. Come the summer I should really be aiming to do another 8a and trying an 8a+, but life and work may well reduce my climbing time in comparison to the last two years, so I'm not yet sure.
Thanks fitclub for all the continued psyche and motivation!
Si
Post edited at 11:24
7
Thanks Dandan82:
Goals written down in Jan 2016 looked like this:
By this time next year (Jan 2017) I'd like to think I could do some or all of:
- Have healthy shoulders, knees and fingers
- 3x new UK sport routes across North Wales and Yorkshire
- >bodyweight 1-handed deadhang
- 8b+
- flash 8a+
- OS E6
- HP E8
2016 summary:
- Shoulder and fingers are reasonably healthy, but knee is a recent relapse.
- I did 2 new routes: Baba O'Riley (8a) & Almost Familiar (7c) (and 3 other variation starts to the same finish at 7c+, 8a & the one i'm most chuffed about, Almost Broken Hearted (8a+) at hard 8a+)
- The bodyweight deadhang is work in progress; in retrospect, my BM2K set-up was deluding me slightly owing to the friction assist from nearby doorframe
- 8b+ came super close on The Traverse Of the Gods (8b+) a couple of times falling from the slopers of Bend of the Rainbow (V6)
- 8a+ flash - never got the chance to try as trip companions weren't of the right calibre to beta me up
- OS E6 & HP E8; I think I only got my trad rack out on 3 occasions and hit the dizzying heights of E3 off the couch
Other 2016 highlights:
- Doing a bunch of 8a+'s, some super quick. The Beast (31) stood out in particular
- Taking an absolute flyer off the final hard move of Jack Of All Trades (30) the evening before leaving Boven
- AJM whooping my ass at the Cheshire Cobbled Classic sportive, the second half of which was a bonked out, typeII suffer fest
- 2 weeks trekking, general travelling and scuba in Jordan with significant other
Post edited at 12:05
4
In reply to Dandan:
By this time next year (Dec 2017) I'd like to think I could do some or all of:
1) Have healthy shoulders, knees and fingers
2) Complete 2 of my bolted projects in North Wales/Peak/Yorkshire
=> To achieve this, I need to be plugging away and putting the time in at the crag and not get distracted by other low lying fruit (kinda contradicts aim #6!)
3) >bodyweight 1-handed deadhang
4) The Traverse Of the Gods (8b+)
5) OS 8a again
6) Complete my 100th route of f8a and above (need to do 16 in 2017, or just 7 if blatant soft touches are included)
7) Maintain significant relationship whilst chipping away at all the above
By this time next year (Dec 2017) I'd like to think I could do some or all of:
1) Have healthy shoulders, knees and fingers
2) Complete 2 of my bolted projects in North Wales/Peak/Yorkshire
=> To achieve this, I need to be plugging away and putting the time in at the crag and not get distracted by other low lying fruit (kinda contradicts aim #6!)
3) >bodyweight 1-handed deadhang
4) The Traverse Of the Gods (8b+)
5) OS 8a again
6) Complete my 100th route of f8a and above (need to do 16 in 2017, or just 7 if blatant soft touches are included)
7) Maintain significant relationship whilst chipping away at all the above
2
In reply to AJM:
Some half-crafted thoughts about 2017 then:
- don't mess up this whole parenting thing
- keep life's plates all spinning
- support MrsAJM getting back into climbing
- make some measurable strength improvements and work on some other weaknesses (shoulders, core, flexibility)
- 2 trips away en famille where we get some climbing done
- do some mileage - Battleship and Wallsend, plus visit Coastguard, lots of classic 7s.
- if I can get involved with any projects then Fighting Torque (8a), The Schwarzechild Radius (8a+), The Cider Soak (8a) and Tennessee (7c) would be on the list, plus as ever trying Infinite Gravity (8a+)
- learn how to boulder better (work out why I'm so bad at it)
- keep trad ticking over, and make the most of any days out MrsAJM and I can get on ropes together sans child
Some half-crafted thoughts about 2017 then:
- don't mess up this whole parenting thing
- keep life's plates all spinning
- support MrsAJM getting back into climbing
- make some measurable strength improvements and work on some other weaknesses (shoulders, core, flexibility)
- 2 trips away en famille where we get some climbing done
- do some mileage - Battleship and Wallsend, plus visit Coastguard, lots of classic 7s.
- if I can get involved with any projects then Fighting Torque (8a), The Schwarzechild Radius (8a+), The Cider Soak (8a) and Tennessee (7c) would be on the list, plus as ever trying Infinite Gravity (8a+)
- learn how to boulder better (work out why I'm so bad at it)
- keep trad ticking over, and make the most of any days out MrsAJM and I can get on ropes together sans child
6
In reply to Dandan:
Great thread - lots of kudos to everyone who’s posted this year; those offering advice and support and especially those keeping the thread running.
I have had another strange year of being a recluse due to extreme saving. I went 6 months between September 15 and March 16 without climbing anything outdoors and my longest absence from FC since starting. I haven’t really invested much time into training (except some core sessions) in the last 6 months. Despite that, I’ve actually managed to climb as hard if not harder than I ever have in the past. I did however get heavily back into running at the back end of the year which may have had something to do with the climbing improvement? Who knows?
Highlights
- Climbing a sport 8a in Spain (and not a soft one? and not a boulder problem on a rope?). Big deal for me.
- Rekindling my ability to project in Parisella’s. (Managed Hatchatrocity, The Highlife and Lou Ferrino (and without pocket) this year.)
- The font trip in October. I managed to send the boulder (Fata Morgana) that had me questioning what I was doing with my life at the start of 2015. Simple things make a huge difference right? Climbing Big Golden was also a dream.
- Ticking off a few other old nemesis routes like Hall of Mirrors and Why Me?
- Got back into running-ish. Got my 5K time down to 18:10 – which should have improved further but I lost motivation when the weather deteriorated. Ran my first half-marathon (race) for many years, managing a respectable 87minutes.
Great thread - lots of kudos to everyone who’s posted this year; those offering advice and support and especially those keeping the thread running.
I have had another strange year of being a recluse due to extreme saving. I went 6 months between September 15 and March 16 without climbing anything outdoors and my longest absence from FC since starting. I haven’t really invested much time into training (except some core sessions) in the last 6 months. Despite that, I’ve actually managed to climb as hard if not harder than I ever have in the past. I did however get heavily back into running at the back end of the year which may have had something to do with the climbing improvement? Who knows?
Highlights
- Climbing a sport 8a in Spain (and not a soft one? and not a boulder problem on a rope?). Big deal for me.
- Rekindling my ability to project in Parisella’s. (Managed Hatchatrocity, The Highlife and Lou Ferrino (and without pocket) this year.)
- The font trip in October. I managed to send the boulder (Fata Morgana) that had me questioning what I was doing with my life at the start of 2015. Simple things make a huge difference right? Climbing Big Golden was also a dream.
- Ticking off a few other old nemesis routes like Hall of Mirrors and Why Me?
- Got back into running-ish. Got my 5K time down to 18:10 – which should have improved further but I lost motivation when the weather deteriorated. Ran my first half-marathon (race) for many years, managing a respectable 87minutes.
Post edited at 12:52
2
In reply to all: I hope you don't mind me posting, as I haven't been around since March.
2016 has been another very mixed year.
I had another great Winter season; Orion Face Direct (V 5) on a blue sky day, my first grade VIs in 13 years including Gully of the Gods (VI 6), seconding Messiah (VI 7) as my first VII.
Unfortunately, my rock climbing season didn't really get going this Spring. I did visit Huntsman's Leap for the first time and soloed Sou'wester Slabs (VD) in July but it wasn't until mid-August that I started to string any outdoor climbing together.
Through August, September and October I had a fair few decent days, but more mileage rather than anything hard; classic E1s at Stennis Head, a couple of days on Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy), Castell Helen, a few days at Stanage Popular and visits to Froggatt Edge, Millstone Edge & Bamford Edge, resolving unfinished business from years ago at Curbar Edge and Rivelin Edge with ascents of Nonsuch (E1 5b), L'Horla (E1 5b) & The Peapod (HVS 5b), climbing at Wilton 1 for the first time and a couple of days in the Wye Valley including the pleasant slabs at Shakemantle Quarry (Ruspidge Slab Quarry).
It was only in late Autumn that I really got things together and I cruised Ladder of Desire (E3 5c) and GT Special (E4 5c) at Avon.
I then had my first overseas sport trip in about seven years to the Costa Blanca and Chulilla. I had 16 days and I mainly onsighted or occasionally climbed things quickly second go. Despite an unseasonable amount of rain and my main partner not climbing that hard, I still racked up:
f7a - 6 out of 6 onsight
f7a+ - 2 onsight, 4 second go & failed to onsight 2 others
f7b - 1 flash (failed to onsight another)
f7b+ - 1 flash (failed to flash another)
f7c - only tried one on last day but couldn't do the crux.
Anyway, I'm in the nice position of climbing as hard as I've ever climbed but I do have the feeling that I'm probably underperforming in general and I'm definitely not spending enough time on harder routes. The fact my best flash of 2017 is two grades harder than my best redpoint of the year (and equal to my best ever redpoint) is just utterly ridiculous.
Finally, I've just spent the last 4 consecutive days at the wall almost exclusively trying a 3-move boulder problem that is everything I normally hate - slopers, pinches and dynamic climbing - so I'm certainly making an effort to work on weaknesses. I've also got the nagging feeling that I'm enjoying bouldering far too much as that's more effort than I've ever put into anything that short. On the plus side, I finally sent the damn thing about 10minutes before the wall shut for the year earlier this evening, so at least 2016 has ended with a (very minor) success.
As to 2017, I'll try and make the effort to rejoin Fitclub properly!
2016 has been another very mixed year.
I had another great Winter season; Orion Face Direct (V 5) on a blue sky day, my first grade VIs in 13 years including Gully of the Gods (VI 6), seconding Messiah (VI 7) as my first VII.
Unfortunately, my rock climbing season didn't really get going this Spring. I did visit Huntsman's Leap for the first time and soloed Sou'wester Slabs (VD) in July but it wasn't until mid-August that I started to string any outdoor climbing together.
Through August, September and October I had a fair few decent days, but more mileage rather than anything hard; classic E1s at Stennis Head, a couple of days on Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy), Castell Helen, a few days at Stanage Popular and visits to Froggatt Edge, Millstone Edge & Bamford Edge, resolving unfinished business from years ago at Curbar Edge and Rivelin Edge with ascents of Nonsuch (E1 5b), L'Horla (E1 5b) & The Peapod (HVS 5b), climbing at Wilton 1 for the first time and a couple of days in the Wye Valley including the pleasant slabs at Shakemantle Quarry (Ruspidge Slab Quarry).
It was only in late Autumn that I really got things together and I cruised Ladder of Desire (E3 5c) and GT Special (E4 5c) at Avon.
I then had my first overseas sport trip in about seven years to the Costa Blanca and Chulilla. I had 16 days and I mainly onsighted or occasionally climbed things quickly second go. Despite an unseasonable amount of rain and my main partner not climbing that hard, I still racked up:
f7a - 6 out of 6 onsight
f7a+ - 2 onsight, 4 second go & failed to onsight 2 others
f7b - 1 flash (failed to onsight another)
f7b+ - 1 flash (failed to flash another)
f7c - only tried one on last day but couldn't do the crux.
Anyway, I'm in the nice position of climbing as hard as I've ever climbed but I do have the feeling that I'm probably underperforming in general and I'm definitely not spending enough time on harder routes. The fact my best flash of 2017 is two grades harder than my best redpoint of the year (and equal to my best ever redpoint) is just utterly ridiculous.
Finally, I've just spent the last 4 consecutive days at the wall almost exclusively trying a 3-move boulder problem that is everything I normally hate - slopers, pinches and dynamic climbing - so I'm certainly making an effort to work on weaknesses. I've also got the nagging feeling that I'm enjoying bouldering far too much as that's more effort than I've ever put into anything that short. On the plus side, I finally sent the damn thing about 10minutes before the wall shut for the year earlier this evening, so at least 2016 has ended with a (very minor) success.
As to 2017, I'll try and make the effort to rejoin Fitclub properly!
6
In reply to Dandan:
Bloody hell! It's a bit of a laugh posting posting up my very humble successes after the hard stuff upthread but I'll carry on anyway ; )
2016 for me has been a year when I finally got enough mental energy to focus on climbing/exercise in any systematic way since sprogs first came almost six years ago. A combination of kids being older and less time intensive, giving up booze (apart from social occasions) and stopping smoking (apart from sometimes when I break when drinking) have all helped me along, as of course has joining FitClub back in July.
Finally leading Suspension Flake and Questor were the highlights for me. At the start of the year wobbling up a Severe was a big deal so to do a couple of quality VS routes which aren't overgraded and which have been on my tick list for years was great. I'm chuffed to have had the opportunity to think through my climbing goals a bit more too and hope to get some more Classic Rock ticked next year. I've also managed to do some running again for the first time in a few years, despite some ups and downs with injury.
The real win though has just been the motivation to keep getting stuff done, knowing that I need to fill those posts with something has really helped me get off my arse and take my opportunities to get out and run/climb or just do some exercise in my living room.
I'm happy with my goals as stated in FitClub, but the one that isn't there is this - keep doing it! I know that there is so little slack in my life that when something unexpected comes along, whether it is illness, work or home life stresses, the temptation to drop exercising is high, and I know that once you stop for a week or two its that much harder to re-engage. So my big goal is still to be here in a year's time and posting up my activity.
Thanks to all for helping me along but especially to those who run the threads - I really do appreciate the time and effort you put in! All the best for 2017 all ya'll.
Bloody hell! It's a bit of a laugh posting posting up my very humble successes after the hard stuff upthread but I'll carry on anyway ; )
2016 for me has been a year when I finally got enough mental energy to focus on climbing/exercise in any systematic way since sprogs first came almost six years ago. A combination of kids being older and less time intensive, giving up booze (apart from social occasions) and stopping smoking (apart from sometimes when I break when drinking) have all helped me along, as of course has joining FitClub back in July.
Finally leading Suspension Flake and Questor were the highlights for me. At the start of the year wobbling up a Severe was a big deal so to do a couple of quality VS routes which aren't overgraded and which have been on my tick list for years was great. I'm chuffed to have had the opportunity to think through my climbing goals a bit more too and hope to get some more Classic Rock ticked next year. I've also managed to do some running again for the first time in a few years, despite some ups and downs with injury.
The real win though has just been the motivation to keep getting stuff done, knowing that I need to fill those posts with something has really helped me get off my arse and take my opportunities to get out and run/climb or just do some exercise in my living room.
I'm happy with my goals as stated in FitClub, but the one that isn't there is this - keep doing it! I know that there is so little slack in my life that when something unexpected comes along, whether it is illness, work or home life stresses, the temptation to drop exercising is high, and I know that once you stop for a week or two its that much harder to re-engage. So my big goal is still to be here in a year's time and posting up my activity.
Thanks to all for helping me along but especially to those who run the threads - I really do appreciate the time and effort you put in! All the best for 2017 all ya'll.
4
In reply to Dandan:
Previously known as Joughton! Haven't kept up with Fit Club this year but thought I'd have a look at the round-up thread, it's great to see everyone's progressing and doing things with their lives and enjoying their climbing!
Made a bit of a change in mindset about climbing this year, in that I've very much just been climbing for me and seeing it as something good and enjoyable I can do rather than something I have to do. It's meant I've taken some big amounts of time off when I'm low on psyche or have a lot of stuff going on but I think I've enjoyed my climbing this year as much as ever despite being mainly confined to the climbing wall.
- Started out the year having just booked a three week trip over summer to Flatanger so the big goal of the year was to finally put some proper time into a project and tick 8b. But the route I found sounded more techy and weird than powerful or sustained so I just stuck to my normal bouldering schedule of 3x sessions a week plus some extra stretching.
- Easter brought a trip to Spain where I onsighted up to 7c and came agonisingly close to a first proper 7c+ onsight.
- More bouldering and I ended up in a comp final with Dave Barrans, Nigel Callendar and some GB Team people, needless to say I got my arse kicked but a good experience.
- Then summer brought Flatanger! Short story short I ticked the 8b but a slightly indirect sequence and a clever/crazy kneebar/mantel through the crux left me feeling a bit short changed for the grade so left a bit dissatisfied but also wondering whether I'd ever climb anything harder. Luckily I went travelling for a month without any climbing to distract from that existential crisis.
- Back at uni this year I'm bouldering better than ever, feeling very powerful and a lot less fit - a very different climber than the one I was a few years ago!
- Then over the Christmas break I've had a few days climbing at Chulilla which started well with a 7c onsight each day for the first three days across a range of styles. Unfortunately the last two days involved another agonizing failure on a 7c+ and then being rained off.
- To end the year on a good note, my only two trad days out of the year ( both this December) were both successful, ticking off Warpath (E5 6a) at Gogarth and Calvary (E4 6a) at Stanage.
So a bit of a mixed up year really but I suppose that reflects climbing taking a bit less of the centre stage at the moment. Happy new year to everyone, sorry for the ramble!
Cheers, Jake
Previously known as Joughton! Haven't kept up with Fit Club this year but thought I'd have a look at the round-up thread, it's great to see everyone's progressing and doing things with their lives and enjoying their climbing!
Made a bit of a change in mindset about climbing this year, in that I've very much just been climbing for me and seeing it as something good and enjoyable I can do rather than something I have to do. It's meant I've taken some big amounts of time off when I'm low on psyche or have a lot of stuff going on but I think I've enjoyed my climbing this year as much as ever despite being mainly confined to the climbing wall.
- Started out the year having just booked a three week trip over summer to Flatanger so the big goal of the year was to finally put some proper time into a project and tick 8b. But the route I found sounded more techy and weird than powerful or sustained so I just stuck to my normal bouldering schedule of 3x sessions a week plus some extra stretching.
- Easter brought a trip to Spain where I onsighted up to 7c and came agonisingly close to a first proper 7c+ onsight.
- More bouldering and I ended up in a comp final with Dave Barrans, Nigel Callendar and some GB Team people, needless to say I got my arse kicked but a good experience.
- Then summer brought Flatanger! Short story short I ticked the 8b but a slightly indirect sequence and a clever/crazy kneebar/mantel through the crux left me feeling a bit short changed for the grade so left a bit dissatisfied but also wondering whether I'd ever climb anything harder. Luckily I went travelling for a month without any climbing to distract from that existential crisis.
- Back at uni this year I'm bouldering better than ever, feeling very powerful and a lot less fit - a very different climber than the one I was a few years ago!
- Then over the Christmas break I've had a few days climbing at Chulilla which started well with a 7c onsight each day for the first three days across a range of styles. Unfortunately the last two days involved another agonizing failure on a 7c+ and then being rained off.
- To end the year on a good note, my only two trad days out of the year ( both this December) were both successful, ticking off Warpath (E5 6a) at Gogarth and Calvary (E4 6a) at Stanage.
So a bit of a mixed up year really but I suppose that reflects climbing taking a bit less of the centre stage at the moment. Happy new year to everyone, sorry for the ramble!
Cheers, Jake
Post edited at 01:06
8
In reply to AJM:
That exactly sums up my experience with trad over the last two years.
This year, I only started to get things properly together after managing 15+ days of trad mileage over a ten week period. Unfortunately, as with 2015, it was far too late in the year.
Whilst I can jump straight from the bouldering wall to climbing mid-7 sport, with trad I've now just resigned myself to the fact that I'll definitely need to string 12 to 20 days together if I want any chance of leading E4+ consistently.
> ... I feel relatively content with my climbing although trad did give me some frustrations over the year dealing with the amount of mileage I seemed to need to get into gear.
That exactly sums up my experience with trad over the last two years.
This year, I only started to get things properly together after managing 15+ days of trad mileage over a ten week period. Unfortunately, as with 2015, it was far too late in the year.
Whilst I can jump straight from the bouldering wall to climbing mid-7 sport, with trad I've now just resigned myself to the fact that I'll definitely need to string 12 to 20 days together if I want any chance of leading E4+ consistently.
1
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan. I'd forgotten all about this thread. Good work!
I had one goal - The Thumb 8a.
I had the plan, just about the time, the psyched partner, a coach. What could go wrong? An unexpectedly busy period between April and June where I ended up maintaining rather than gaining and the weather meant the crux was wet on all my later visits. Bah! Not sure I was really ready tbh after the loss of training in the spring. But I had fun. It was nice to get out, good to have a target route and I enjoyed every day on it. I made progress everytime and it'll still be there in the future.
This year I am concentrating more on bouldering. At the moment life is just too busy with uni, 2 jobs and family life to give any real time to a project. I'll keep plugging away at technique and getting strong bouldering indoors and the odd routes session. I finish uni at the end of May and am not back in until mid September. I will be looking forward to getting out - trad, boulder sport whatever - when I can. I'd quite like to get to Parisella's and do some of the easier lines there.
Cheers Dan. I'd forgotten all about this thread. Good work!
I had one goal - The Thumb 8a.
I had the plan, just about the time, the psyched partner, a coach. What could go wrong? An unexpectedly busy period between April and June where I ended up maintaining rather than gaining and the weather meant the crux was wet on all my later visits. Bah! Not sure I was really ready tbh after the loss of training in the spring. But I had fun. It was nice to get out, good to have a target route and I enjoyed every day on it. I made progress everytime and it'll still be there in the future.
This year I am concentrating more on bouldering. At the moment life is just too busy with uni, 2 jobs and family life to give any real time to a project. I'll keep plugging away at technique and getting strong bouldering indoors and the odd routes session. I finish uni at the end of May and am not back in until mid September. I will be looking forward to getting out - trad, boulder sport whatever - when I can. I'd quite like to get to Parisella's and do some of the easier lines there.
3
In reply to Dandan:
Another lurker and ex poster here.
Fit club, though I haven't joined in much still motivates me. Excellent efforts for those who have made it! I have enjoyed joining in the successes of those who I know both in person and as an online entity, even if done on the quiet.
Curiously, it has been one of the previous posters who has had a significant impact and made me re examine my attitude to climbing and specifically risk. Though the catalyst for this was not wanted, the out come has been positive.
My climbing has been very limited in 2016. Though I've still climbed mid 7's, led E4 (previous best), and even won a friendly competition at one of the localish walls. Free new shoes!
I am tempted to rejoin FC, but I need to find enough motivation myself first. I also need to make sure the finger injury has settled before hitting it too hard.
My goals and ambitions may go like this:
Sport - RP 7c or 8a? Fighting torque would be a sensible start.
Trad - OS E4, get on E5.
Bouldering - pah! need new knees for this to happen.
I have trips to climb Motorhead is switzland, and a week in Kaly in September booked. So best pull my fat and lazy one out!
Happy new year all, Kev.
Another lurker and ex poster here.
Fit club, though I haven't joined in much still motivates me. Excellent efforts for those who have made it! I have enjoyed joining in the successes of those who I know both in person and as an online entity, even if done on the quiet.
Curiously, it has been one of the previous posters who has had a significant impact and made me re examine my attitude to climbing and specifically risk. Though the catalyst for this was not wanted, the out come has been positive.
My climbing has been very limited in 2016. Though I've still climbed mid 7's, led E4 (previous best), and even won a friendly competition at one of the localish walls. Free new shoes!
I am tempted to rejoin FC, but I need to find enough motivation myself first. I also need to make sure the finger injury has settled before hitting it too hard.
My goals and ambitions may go like this:
Sport - RP 7c or 8a? Fighting torque would be a sensible start.
Trad - OS E4, get on E5.
Bouldering - pah! need new knees for this to happen.
I have trips to climb Motorhead is switzland, and a week in Kaly in September booked. So best pull my fat and lazy one out!
Happy new year all, Kev.
3
In reply to Dandan:
In terms of climbing it was a great year. Hosted a big event for my student alpine club and was the instructor for two mountaineering trips. One of them had a magical moment where we had hiked and scrambled most of the day in fog so thick we could only see about 30 meters. Then on the way down it lifted and we could see glaciers and peaks all the way to the horizon (this was in Jotunheimen).
Also started working on technical climbing in October. Started lead climbing indoors, so far I've sent (flashed) an n5 (F5a) on lead and I'm close to getting an n5+ (F5c). I managed to toprope an n6 (F6a+) 1 month after I started, but I'm far from stable at that grade. Hoping to be that before the summer.
I bouldered once a week. Starting out being able to climb some f4s, and yesterday I flashed a handful of f5s and got two f6a and onsighted an f6a on the highest indoor boulder wall (probably about 4 meters).
For 2017: I have an ice climbing course in January, and then a longer ice climbing course in February/March. I'll start sport climbing as soon as I can, I think there will be enough light in Norway around the end of February. Then a trad course this summer. Then I'll find time to do some (easy) technical alpine climbing and trad multi-pitch in the late summer.
So 2016 was nice. I also got married, so that was fun too. But I think 2017 will be the most fun. To be done with all the intro course to get the entry level knowledge and just start climbing as much as I can.
In terms of climbing it was a great year. Hosted a big event for my student alpine club and was the instructor for two mountaineering trips. One of them had a magical moment where we had hiked and scrambled most of the day in fog so thick we could only see about 30 meters. Then on the way down it lifted and we could see glaciers and peaks all the way to the horizon (this was in Jotunheimen).
Also started working on technical climbing in October. Started lead climbing indoors, so far I've sent (flashed) an n5 (F5a) on lead and I'm close to getting an n5+ (F5c). I managed to toprope an n6 (F6a+) 1 month after I started, but I'm far from stable at that grade. Hoping to be that before the summer.
I bouldered once a week. Starting out being able to climb some f4s, and yesterday I flashed a handful of f5s and got two f6a and onsighted an f6a on the highest indoor boulder wall (probably about 4 meters).
For 2017: I have an ice climbing course in January, and then a longer ice climbing course in February/March. I'll start sport climbing as soon as I can, I think there will be enough light in Norway around the end of February. Then a trad course this summer. Then I'll find time to do some (easy) technical alpine climbing and trad multi-pitch in the late summer.
So 2016 was nice. I also got married, so that was fun too. But I think 2017 will be the most fun. To be done with all the intro course to get the entry level knowledge and just start climbing as much as I can.
Post edited at 17:39
3
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers for this.
Stats for the year;
Cycling 2225 km
Swimming 275 km
Running 62 km
Lost one and a half stone, over all fitness much improved. want to loose another stone.
Oh and passed BSAC ocean diver training.
Need to work on the cycling and running and not rely on the pool work next year.
Cheers for this.
Stats for the year;
Cycling 2225 km
Swimming 275 km
Running 62 km
Lost one and a half stone, over all fitness much improved. want to loose another stone.
Oh and passed BSAC ocean diver training.
Need to work on the cycling and running and not rely on the pool work next year.
Post edited at 18:42
3
In reply to Dandan:
I've had a flipping brilliant 2016, I really can't complain about any aspect of it, 2017 will have to work it's socks off to beat it...
Let's start with the obvious, i finally, finally ticked 8a, something that people having been telling me and I have been telling myself that I was capable of doing for at least 6 years, however circumstances, injuries and plain old bad luck have stopped it happening until now.
Which brings me on to the main reason why it finally happened;
I've been injury free all year.
A whole year, after recovering from tennis elbow over last Christmas and into January, I've finally started listening to myself and preventing anything nasty from happening. Sure, I've had a few tweaky fingers, but never enough to stop me climbing, or to even stop me climbing hard. Since I started trying really hard (about 7 years ago), this is the longest I have gone injury free and it's as fantastic as I hoped it might be!
I also learned that I can't be trusted to plan my own training. After training myself in the lead up to Kalymnos in August and then failing to do anything spectacular, the Lattice board told me that I had managed to turn myself into the climbing equivalent of an asthmatic Gorilla, all finger strength and no endurance.
I began what I hope to be a long and fruitful training plan with Tom et al, the first 10 weeks of which saw me walk up a 7b+ whilst putting the draws in that I couldn't touch 6 months previously, and made 8a feel genuinely like 7b, I never thought a route so hard could feel so easy.
I had 3 fantastic holidays, Margalef in April, Kalymnos in August and Margalef again in October, all of which were brilliant fun.
I climbed more routes this year than any previous year, 145 new routes which beats the 140 I managed in 2011. I also did a lot more repeats so my overall mileage was way above anything seen previously.
Outside of climbing, I had my second year of marriage to the wonderful Mrs Dandan who for some reason continues to allow me to be a lazy, mindless idiot whilst enabling my lifestyle of climbing and DIY.
I made a start on the Dandan Property Empire, buying 2 flats for renting. I'm hoping to 'retire' by 45 so I can do even more climbing and DIY but being realistically optimistic, I can see it happening by 40 if I play my cards right...
I got an excellent new training partner, those of you North of the border might know the name Ben Litster, he used to be an E8/8b+ machine and has been out of the game for a while so he is keen to get back to full fitness, although his love of gin is probably his biggest hold-up right now, that or his refusal to pay more than £65 for a pair of shoes...
My goals for 2016 were decidedly modest, but i'm happy to say I did a clean sweep of the lot:
Margalef in March/April; be able to climb, have fun.
Erase all existence of the tennis elbow.
Listen to my body. (I was going to put 'listen to my body *more*' but I clearly ignore it completely when it suits so I have stop doing that)
Goals for 2017 should be a little (a lot) more ambitious, I need to make hay while the sun shines and all that:
* 3 Holidays (already got Lattice trip in Feb and Margalef in April so this ones in the bag)
* tick 3 x 8a
* tick 10 x 7c/7c+ (to round out my logbook)
* tick 8b (nothing wrong with some optimism)
* Remain uninjured, don't return to cocky idiot mode
* +bodyweight pull ups (2 reps)
* Visit Kilnsey (never been)
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last
I've had a flipping brilliant 2016, I really can't complain about any aspect of it, 2017 will have to work it's socks off to beat it...
Let's start with the obvious, i finally, finally ticked 8a, something that people having been telling me and I have been telling myself that I was capable of doing for at least 6 years, however circumstances, injuries and plain old bad luck have stopped it happening until now.
Which brings me on to the main reason why it finally happened;
I've been injury free all year.
A whole year, after recovering from tennis elbow over last Christmas and into January, I've finally started listening to myself and preventing anything nasty from happening. Sure, I've had a few tweaky fingers, but never enough to stop me climbing, or to even stop me climbing hard. Since I started trying really hard (about 7 years ago), this is the longest I have gone injury free and it's as fantastic as I hoped it might be!
I also learned that I can't be trusted to plan my own training. After training myself in the lead up to Kalymnos in August and then failing to do anything spectacular, the Lattice board told me that I had managed to turn myself into the climbing equivalent of an asthmatic Gorilla, all finger strength and no endurance.
I began what I hope to be a long and fruitful training plan with Tom et al, the first 10 weeks of which saw me walk up a 7b+ whilst putting the draws in that I couldn't touch 6 months previously, and made 8a feel genuinely like 7b, I never thought a route so hard could feel so easy.
I had 3 fantastic holidays, Margalef in April, Kalymnos in August and Margalef again in October, all of which were brilliant fun.
I climbed more routes this year than any previous year, 145 new routes which beats the 140 I managed in 2011. I also did a lot more repeats so my overall mileage was way above anything seen previously.
Outside of climbing, I had my second year of marriage to the wonderful Mrs Dandan who for some reason continues to allow me to be a lazy, mindless idiot whilst enabling my lifestyle of climbing and DIY.
I made a start on the Dandan Property Empire, buying 2 flats for renting. I'm hoping to 'retire' by 45 so I can do even more climbing and DIY but being realistically optimistic, I can see it happening by 40 if I play my cards right...
I got an excellent new training partner, those of you North of the border might know the name Ben Litster, he used to be an E8/8b+ machine and has been out of the game for a while so he is keen to get back to full fitness, although his love of gin is probably his biggest hold-up right now, that or his refusal to pay more than £65 for a pair of shoes...
My goals for 2016 were decidedly modest, but i'm happy to say I did a clean sweep of the lot:
Margalef in March/April; be able to climb, have fun.
Erase all existence of the tennis elbow.
Listen to my body. (I was going to put 'listen to my body *more*' but I clearly ignore it completely when it suits so I have stop doing that)
Goals for 2017 should be a little (a lot) more ambitious, I need to make hay while the sun shines and all that:
* 3 Holidays (already got Lattice trip in Feb and Margalef in April so this ones in the bag)
* tick 3 x 8a
* tick 10 x 7c/7c+ (to round out my logbook)
* tick 8b (nothing wrong with some optimism)
* Remain uninjured, don't return to cocky idiot mode
* +bodyweight pull ups (2 reps)
* Visit Kilnsey (never been)
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last
7
In reply to Dandan:
Happy 2017 everyone!
I didn't post last year, so will give a summary of 2016 and some goals for 2017! My 2016 goals were send 7a, E2, 1:30 Half, 19 min 5k, and to climb the Matterhorn. This is what I did:
- Completed structured 12 week training plan with conditioning coach. Aka found out what it really means to "train" rather than just "climb"
- Sent 3 7a's in November
- Sent 2 E2's (albeit slightly questionable slate ones)
- Sent 3 indoor V5's
- Climbing highlight was probably shitting myself on 3 pebble slab
- 1:32 half marathon
- 19:09 5k.
- First week of ice climbing in Cogne
- Didn't attempt the Matterhorn (partner had an injury), but did the south ridge of the Lagginhorn with a "character building" unplanned bivvy.
- Worked through two or three minor injuries etc sensibly without hassle/missing training (two minor flexor strain injuries, shoulder impingement, overtraining syndrome).
- Averaged over 12 hours of training a week and sent more outdoor pitches than previous 'career' total (~150)
- Deadlifted 210kg, Bench Press 105kg, Squat 140kg.
Other stuff:
- Met an amazing woman who also happens to be an ideal training/climbing/travel partner
- Arranged to go 4 days a week in 2017 to make more time for climbing
- Bought a campervan (Vivaro) for climbing trips
- Made first "climbing" video
*** 2017 Goals *** (in vauge chronological order)
* Build Winter + Alpine experience (have trips booked to Scotland, Cogne)
* First Grit E1
* First Limestone E1
* Send something at 7b
* Send 3 7a/7a+s
* The Matterhorn
* Get to a sustainable weight of 80kg (currently 83kg), work with nutritionist to set up a more positive approach to food.
* Make another climbing video
I have a 5 week trip to British Columbia in July which I haven't researched yet, so don't have any specific goals. My basic goal for that is to make the most of our time there, climb hard, and experience as many types of rock Canada has to offer (so probably Squamish bouldering, Canmore trad, Bugaboos and Rockies alpine?). We are trying to build as big an aerobic base as possible before going to try and get the most out of it possible.
I'm also looking forward to getting more into outdoor bouldering this year- first grit bouldering trip was this year. Hopefully we will get plenty more time out on boulders this year, and maybe fit a trip to Font in at some point.
Happy 2017 everyone!
I didn't post last year, so will give a summary of 2016 and some goals for 2017! My 2016 goals were send 7a, E2, 1:30 Half, 19 min 5k, and to climb the Matterhorn. This is what I did:
- Completed structured 12 week training plan with conditioning coach. Aka found out what it really means to "train" rather than just "climb"
- Sent 3 7a's in November
- Sent 2 E2's (albeit slightly questionable slate ones)
- Sent 3 indoor V5's
- Climbing highlight was probably shitting myself on 3 pebble slab
- 1:32 half marathon
- 19:09 5k.
- First week of ice climbing in Cogne
- Didn't attempt the Matterhorn (partner had an injury), but did the south ridge of the Lagginhorn with a "character building" unplanned bivvy.
- Worked through two or three minor injuries etc sensibly without hassle/missing training (two minor flexor strain injuries, shoulder impingement, overtraining syndrome).
- Averaged over 12 hours of training a week and sent more outdoor pitches than previous 'career' total (~150)
- Deadlifted 210kg, Bench Press 105kg, Squat 140kg.
Other stuff:
- Met an amazing woman who also happens to be an ideal training/climbing/travel partner
- Arranged to go 4 days a week in 2017 to make more time for climbing
- Bought a campervan (Vivaro) for climbing trips
- Made first "climbing" video
*** 2017 Goals *** (in vauge chronological order)
* Build Winter + Alpine experience (have trips booked to Scotland, Cogne)
* First Grit E1
* First Limestone E1
* Send something at 7b
* Send 3 7a/7a+s
* The Matterhorn
* Get to a sustainable weight of 80kg (currently 83kg), work with nutritionist to set up a more positive approach to food.
* Make another climbing video
I have a 5 week trip to British Columbia in July which I haven't researched yet, so don't have any specific goals. My basic goal for that is to make the most of our time there, climb hard, and experience as many types of rock Canada has to offer (so probably Squamish bouldering, Canmore trad, Bugaboos and Rockies alpine?). We are trying to build as big an aerobic base as possible before going to try and get the most out of it possible.
I'm also looking forward to getting more into outdoor bouldering this year- first grit bouldering trip was this year. Hopefully we will get plenty more time out on boulders this year, and maybe fit a trip to Font in at some point.
Post edited at 08:12
3
1
1
In reply to Dandan:
I wasn't in FitClub at the start of the year, so didn't make a New Year post. If I had it would have been simply to climb 8a. I did this with Aberration and came close to ticking another in El Chorro. I'm in El Chorro now, so this could still happen in early 2017. I'm also pleased with the speed at which I've done some 7c's; I've managed to get 7c in a day three times.
I've really enjoyed the process of training and working with Lattice training. In the 2 years that I've trained with Ollie I've gone from 7b-8a which has been a lifetime goal. I have work and family commitments, and climbing has to fit around those, but we've worked together on a schedule that fits around my time and seen great results.
I think I have a fairly good idea of where my strengths and weaknesses lie. After achieving 8a I'm really keen on switching focus and doing a year of bouldering. The idea will be to transit back into sport climbing in 2018. It's really hard to have exact goals for the year, as I really don't know what is going to be possible. I'd really like to tick Powerband at Raven Tor at the end of the year. I'm sure as i get more bouldering done, I'll come up with new objectives. I'm also happy for others to suggest things.
I wasn't in FitClub at the start of the year, so didn't make a New Year post. If I had it would have been simply to climb 8a. I did this with Aberration and came close to ticking another in El Chorro. I'm in El Chorro now, so this could still happen in early 2017. I'm also pleased with the speed at which I've done some 7c's; I've managed to get 7c in a day three times.
I've really enjoyed the process of training and working with Lattice training. In the 2 years that I've trained with Ollie I've gone from 7b-8a which has been a lifetime goal. I have work and family commitments, and climbing has to fit around those, but we've worked together on a schedule that fits around my time and seen great results.
I think I have a fairly good idea of where my strengths and weaknesses lie. After achieving 8a I'm really keen on switching focus and doing a year of bouldering. The idea will be to transit back into sport climbing in 2018. It's really hard to have exact goals for the year, as I really don't know what is going to be possible. I'd really like to tick Powerband at Raven Tor at the end of the year. I'm sure as i get more bouldering done, I'll come up with new objectives. I'm also happy for others to suggest things.
4
In reply to Dandan:
Hi all and congrats to everyone, some good efforts last year
My goal was to fill a 7b+ pyramid up. In the end the pyramid ended up rather flat with about 8 7as, 2 7a+ and 1 7b. Overall for the year I'd say
Good
Flashed 3 7as which I haven't done before and repeated my previous hardest grade of 7b. Got to the stage that uk was going second go quite easily at one point.
Bad
Failed to push on and do anything harder than 7b and although I started trying to train more I let work get on top of me at and it tailed off.
So a mixed year, probably the most successful one I've had but feel I should have done a bit more. Let's see what 2017 brings!
Hi all and congrats to everyone, some good efforts last year
My goal was to fill a 7b+ pyramid up. In the end the pyramid ended up rather flat with about 8 7as, 2 7a+ and 1 7b. Overall for the year I'd say
Good
Flashed 3 7as which I haven't done before and repeated my previous hardest grade of 7b. Got to the stage that uk was going second go quite easily at one point.
Bad
Failed to push on and do anything harder than 7b and although I started trying to train more I let work get on top of me at and it tailed off.
So a mixed year, probably the most successful one I've had but feel I should have done a bit more. Let's see what 2017 brings!
2
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dan - so glad you've had a successful and healthy-elbowed year!
HIGHLIGHTS:
* Jerry's Traverse (f7A+) (thanks Si!), Sacre Coeur (E2 5c), Buf!! (7a)
* some great trips climbing and ski-touring (including getting married under Colorado law with no witnesses at 13,000ft)
I started 2016 having had a good autumn 2015 trad season and then unexpectedly onsighted 7a over new year so was a bit indecisive. Si and AJM recommended structured training, and I was humming and ha-ing about whether to go for it, then broke my ankle so had to. A mini Randall plan ensued from Feb-April, and then a more serious one from August. Feeling strong now but with lots going on (mum's cancer treatment, work etc) struggling a bit with the climbing-life balance. A lot of more holistic things like sleep, nutrition and concentration are the sticking points rather than my training condition at the moment.
It took me a long time searching back through threads to find any goals for this year (from September!), which seems ironic considering a.) I spent a long time in January picking all your brains about plausible goals b.) our whole theme for WCS this year was goal setting! They were not entirely SMART...
MTG (2016):
* TRAD: Do lots of long multipitch in Morocco (Oct) especially Samazar Valley plus something on the Thumb. Start working E4 at Gardom's with a view to redpoint early 2017 - NOT QUITE. Had a good trip to Morocco but still have lots of Nick's ticklist to complete. Need to work on pushing the grit grades this season.
* BOULDER: Work 7A. Project: Jerry's Traverse (f7A+) - TICKED in 4 sessions just after FC500
* SPORT: 7a+/ 7b in Mallorca - Dec (7a onsight last year) - FAIL, too tired. But 3x 7as.
* TRAINING: stick to the plan and be able to complete one set of Tom's pull-ups (8 narrow/5 wide) without pulley assistance! FAIL
* OTHER: NICAS coach training, route setting training, organise youth comps and a successful Women's Climbing Symposium - TICK
Thanks Dan - so glad you've had a successful and healthy-elbowed year!
HIGHLIGHTS:
* Jerry's Traverse (f7A+) (thanks Si!), Sacre Coeur (E2 5c), Buf!! (7a)
* some great trips climbing and ski-touring (including getting married under Colorado law with no witnesses at 13,000ft)
I started 2016 having had a good autumn 2015 trad season and then unexpectedly onsighted 7a over new year so was a bit indecisive. Si and AJM recommended structured training, and I was humming and ha-ing about whether to go for it, then broke my ankle so had to. A mini Randall plan ensued from Feb-April, and then a more serious one from August. Feeling strong now but with lots going on (mum's cancer treatment, work etc) struggling a bit with the climbing-life balance. A lot of more holistic things like sleep, nutrition and concentration are the sticking points rather than my training condition at the moment.
It took me a long time searching back through threads to find any goals for this year (from September!), which seems ironic considering a.) I spent a long time in January picking all your brains about plausible goals b.) our whole theme for WCS this year was goal setting! They were not entirely SMART...
MTG (2016):
* TRAD: Do lots of long multipitch in Morocco (Oct) especially Samazar Valley plus something on the Thumb. Start working E4 at Gardom's with a view to redpoint early 2017 - NOT QUITE. Had a good trip to Morocco but still have lots of Nick's ticklist to complete. Need to work on pushing the grit grades this season.
* BOULDER: Work 7A. Project: Jerry's Traverse (f7A+) - TICKED in 4 sessions just after FC500
* SPORT: 7a+/ 7b in Mallorca - Dec (7a onsight last year) - FAIL, too tired. But 3x 7as.
* TRAINING: stick to the plan and be able to complete one set of Tom's pull-ups (8 narrow/5 wide) without pulley assistance! FAIL
* OTHER: NICAS coach training, route setting training, organise youth comps and a successful Women's Climbing Symposium - TICK
2
In reply to Dandan:
didn't spot this, hence being a touch tardy in adding to the thread. Here's what I said last year:
What I'd like to do in 2016:
- sort out the shoulder once and for all - yes, left shoulder appears sorted. Unfortunately the right one is giving me grief and has been for several months now.
- tick Remembrance - yes, done, hurrah.
- try to stop putting myself down and find some self belief - hum, needs more work I think
- get on an 8a.
- other 8a project possibilities would be something at Wildside - trip at end of Feb so could siege a suitable route, but would need to be able to mentally cope with a tick-free week.
yes I got on quite a few 8as, including the Wildside one. That wasn't a totally tick free week as I managed a freak flash of the 7b+ which forms the lower part of the route. Other than that, had several sessions on Cider Soak and found it was the absolute antithesis of my preferred style. Have had 2 sessions on Fighting Torque and that feels rather more my sort of thing. Also had a play on Sweet Tufa at Cheddar but it seeps really badly so is probably not a good contender for a project.
I haven't added up the 2016 numbers specifically, but 1x7c, quite a few 7b+ & 7b, a couple of 7a+ onsights or flashes and a pleasingly large number of 7a onsights. Total tally of all my clean 7 and above leads stands at 90.
So 2017 goals are:
- well, obviously, get that total to 100!
- keep getting on hard route projects, esp Fighting Torque & Sweet Tufa.
- onsight in the 7s confidently. Which means talking myself in to trying more 7a+/7b type things onsight.
- keep to training plan as best way of being physically strong enough for these 2 goals.
- do something about the head - but what?! Where does one get self belief and confidence from, is there some secret pop-up shop somewhere?!
didn't spot this, hence being a touch tardy in adding to the thread. Here's what I said last year:
What I'd like to do in 2016:
- sort out the shoulder once and for all - yes, left shoulder appears sorted. Unfortunately the right one is giving me grief and has been for several months now.
- tick Remembrance - yes, done, hurrah.
- try to stop putting myself down and find some self belief - hum, needs more work I think
- get on an 8a.
- other 8a project possibilities would be something at Wildside - trip at end of Feb so could siege a suitable route, but would need to be able to mentally cope with a tick-free week.
yes I got on quite a few 8as, including the Wildside one. That wasn't a totally tick free week as I managed a freak flash of the 7b+ which forms the lower part of the route. Other than that, had several sessions on Cider Soak and found it was the absolute antithesis of my preferred style. Have had 2 sessions on Fighting Torque and that feels rather more my sort of thing. Also had a play on Sweet Tufa at Cheddar but it seeps really badly so is probably not a good contender for a project.
I haven't added up the 2016 numbers specifically, but 1x7c, quite a few 7b+ & 7b, a couple of 7a+ onsights or flashes and a pleasingly large number of 7a onsights. Total tally of all my clean 7 and above leads stands at 90.
So 2017 goals are:
- well, obviously, get that total to 100!
- keep getting on hard route projects, esp Fighting Torque & Sweet Tufa.
- onsight in the 7s confidently. Which means talking myself in to trying more 7a+/7b type things onsight.
- keep to training plan as best way of being physically strong enough for these 2 goals.
- do something about the head - but what?! Where does one get self belief and confidence from, is there some secret pop-up shop somewhere?!
2
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Elsewhere on the site
Loading Notifications...