UKC

Hi Guys,

My climbing club are looking into organising a sport climbing holiday somewhere in Europe in September/October time. Our ability varies but is largely towards the low end of the spectrum 4s-6s. With some of the newer members of the group only leading in the 4's, so we'd want crags with plenty of routes at all grades between 4 and 6b/c.
Most of the destination articles on UKC seem to focus on the higher grades (which is odd given the average sport grade is 6a+) and it's hard to tell if an area would be suitable for us.
Places we are already considering are Sardinia, Costa Blanca or Malta, but I was hoping for some recommendations from some of you guys as to where might be best suited to us.
We'd prefer somewhere that was relatively cheap and easy to get to (e.g. daily flights).

Thanks

Lee

In reply to SuperLee1985:
San Vito lo Capo, Sicily has all you could want
lots of info in the intro, there are other crags in the area.

Paklenica in Croatia. Can be accessed from 3 airports. Cheap, can do without a rental cars.

In reply to SuperLee1985:

Ponte Brolla and Ticino in general offer also lots in that grade range. From single pitch to really long bolted multibitch stuff like Via del veterano (5a).

Also world class bouldering and bigger alpine rock routes aren't that far either.

In reply to HeMa:


Great place, but multibitch...? Surely you mean multibitches?

In reply to SuperLee1985:

Costa Durada. Loads of stuff to go at there, and not too busy.

In reply to SuperLee1985:

As I have mentioned on here several times in the past, the Provence area around Buis les Baronnies and Malaucene offers some excellent venues to suit your needs.
Chaine du Grand Travers (Dentelles de Montmirail) is just one of several in the Dentelles de Montmirail area.
Baume Rousse has a lot of decent 4s and 5s (many of which are soft)
Aiguille de Buis is a newly developed crag in a great position with some good multipitch routes often with easier first pitches.
Combe Obscure has some excellent easier routes

This is just a selection.

My club has spent time in this area more than once and may do so again. We chose to fly to Grenoble and hire cars, but Nice is another possibility and perhaps Lyon or Marseilles (limited availability). I can point you at some excellent gites reasonably priced in the off season if you're interested.
Guidebooks -Rockfax Haute Provence, but there's also a good local guide produced about 4 years ago.

In reply to SuperLee1985:

Hi Lee

I can put you in touch with other clubs that come to us annually about advice for the crags, hire cars etc
Happy to quote for the accommodation but we are already fully booked for 2 weeks in October.
If we are full I have found a contact for another place to hold large numbers so drop me an email.

Sam Orange House

In reply to nutme:


I haven't been , but is it really a good venues for 4s & 5s? Just wondering....

In reply to SuperLee1985:

>(which is odd given the average sport grade is 6a+)

What really, I find that hard to believe. Where does that info come from? I'm intrigued

In reply to SuperLee1985:

Oh, and to answer your question. Orpierre obviously. Bit of a cliche really, but then there's a reason for that.

In reply to Rog Wilko:

Not in large volume, but probably enough to keep someone (or a group) happy for a week or so. There are a lot of crags dotted around, within walking distance of the gorge which also have some lower grade stuff on. There are quite a few big multipitches around the 5 Grade too. Brilliant place, fully recommended.

In reply to Rog Wilko:


Yes, gorge alone has plenty of routes in that grade. I have been to Paklenica with a friend who's cap is 5b on sign / 6a redpoint and she was happy with selection of routes.

P.S.: Got curious about the actual numbers. Found a chart for gorge saying:

Up to 4c
Single-pitch sports routes 17
Multi-pitch sports routes 13

5a to 5c
Single-pitch sports routes 35
Multi-pitch sports routes 17

http://www.climb-europe.com/RockClimbingCroatia/Paklenica.html

In reply to SuperLee1985:

I would recommend San vito lo Capo in Sicily too.
Paklenica is great if included in a more general holiday but my memory is that most climbing was concentrated in one small canyon area, San Vito had a really good variety of venues and friendly grades.

That said, i loved Croatia and the people there.

In reply to nutme:

OK, I did say I'd never been.

In reply to HeMa:

having switzerland as cheap is completely new to me

In reply to SuperLee1985:

at your level, I consider the following areas in croatia better than paklenica for single pitches:

- the triplett of Dvigrad, Limski Kanal & Rovinj
- the crags around Baska

Basing yourself in Osp (Slovenija) gives you easy access to low and midgrade heavens i n Crni Kal and Val Rosandra.

in Italy, Sperlonga (sadly close to nothing on UKC) and Ferentillo can easily be from Rome and do not necessarily need a rental car, with most of the ares in walking distance. Finale is another option.

In Spain, I found Margalef surprisingly good for lower grade climbing and parties with mixed abilities.

In reply to jon:

or even single bitches

In reply to SuperLee1985:

Another vote for San Vito in Sicily. Brilliant crag, awesome camp site at the foot of a cliff and the cannolis I'm San Vito town are amazing.

Otherwise anywhere in Costa blanca.

In reply to SuperLee1985:

Thanks for all the advice guys, lots of really useful stuff.

In reply to TheGeneralist:

The average grade stat came from here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/graphs.html#gradetype3

In reply to tjekel:

The camping ground close by, was about the same price as in Arco, IT... So not really all that expensive. And day trips for food to IT are possible from there.

In fact, I've generally spent less money whilst in CH than in FR... IT has been a tad cheaper though (until I find a factory outlet, that is).

In reply to SuperLee1985:

Cheapest by far is Chorro and enough 4,5's for a week. Friendly budget accomodation at the olive branch,choose en suite,bunk house,their tents. Fly cheaply to malaga,€4 train,car not essential as numerous crags within walking distance.
Got to be a winner. You can block book 12 in bunkhouse for €13ppn.

In reply to SuperLee1985:

Wyndcliffe Quarry Wyndcliff Quarry

Lots of low grade routes, no walk in, in Europe

In reply to freelunchprovider:



I thought this. Generally has cheap flights, you can get the train to El Chorro and there's great climbing close by.

Only issue is that it might be HOT. The later you go the better I'd say (i.e. late October rather than September). My one time there in September was 30+ degrees every day and without a car its hard to find good shaded areas.

In reply to ericinbristol:



Excellent route names,sport and trad,sported trad,tradded sport and soon to have it's own top quality guide. Oh and in a year or two(or 3,4,......) no longer in Europe but in Wales.

In reply to freelunchprovider:

Will still be in geographical Europe, just not the EU

In reply to johnboybuchan:

Hi there JB!

I've been twice to Paklenica. I'd say it's a bit thin on the 4's and it could be a bit chilly in October, especially the multi-pitch routes. It's a great venue though.

We found enough to do in Mallorca at those grades last October. It's very cheap to get to, but less cheap to hire a car which is essential.

Kalymnos has everything you're looking for I'd say, except we couldn't find any cheap flights last October - might be because Kos, where the cheap flights go, is no longer such a popular holiday destination due to proximity to Turkey and refugee issues. Others who went last year may correct me though.

Martin