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NEWS: 41 pitch Patagonia route 'Riders on the Storm' receives First Free Ascent

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 UKC News 19 Feb 2024

On February 9th, a team consisting of Siebe Vanhee, Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll, Nico Favresse, and Drew Smith, made the first free ascent of the Patagonian big-wall route, Riders on the Storm. 

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 Pipecleaner 19 Feb 2024
In reply to UKC News:

Had to go one day...great team for it to go to!  

Amazing stuff!

In reply to UKC News:

Siebe Vanhee gets about thought he was on the Dawn wall!

 morpcat 20 Feb 2024
In reply to UKC News:

Regarding the "team free ascent" in capsule style, I actually really like that it got done this way! It's closer to how us mortals might approach a multipitch route, and it shows what an absolutely mind-boggling challenge this route must have been for them. 

Now they just need to go back three more times to lead each other's pitches  

1
 john arran 20 Feb 2024
In reply to morpcat:

> Regarding the "team free ascent" in capsule style, I actually really like that it got done this way! It's closer to how us mortals might approach a multipitch route, and it shows what an absolutely mind-boggling challenge this route must have been for them. 

Up until a very small number of years ago it would simply have been called a "free ascent", as the somewhat odd fashion for doing each pitch multiple times with different leaders, or dragging a dedicated belayer up with you, hadn't caught on.

 Tyler 20 Feb 2024
In reply to john arran:

> Up until a very small number of years ago

I guess this depends what you mean by a small number of years, it certainly became a talking point some time between PP and TS freeing the Salathe (1988) and Huber making the second FA (1995)

In reply to Andy Clarke1965:

> Siebe Vanhee gets about thought he was on the Dawn wall!

That CAC T-shirt gets about too - last saw that on a portaledge on The Dawn Wall too! 

Also available for mere mortals here: https://www.climbersagainstcancer.org/shop/10-year-anniversary-t-shirt-mens...


In reply to john arran:

No odder than climbing incredibly hard routes up a monolith that has a perfectly good path to the top. 

2
 Michael Gordon 20 Feb 2024
In reply to purplemonkeyelephant:

> No odder than climbing incredibly hard routes up a monolith that has a perfectly good path to the top. 

The Central tower?

 morpcat 20 Feb 2024
In reply to Michael Gordon:

> The Central tower?

Mister, Ye Can Walk Up Roon The Back (S)

 john arran 20 Feb 2024
In reply to Tyler:

> I guess this depends what you mean by a small number of years, it certainly became a talking point some time between PP and TS freeing the Salathe (1988) and Huber making the second FA (1995)

Fair enough, and I suppose the environment makes a huge difference. Somewhere like El Cap, with almost trivial access and reliable weather, you can afford to be a bit more anal with ascent styles. Whereas in Patagonia, taking the same approach would be shooting yourself in the foot, weather-wise. I can't think of many (any?) ascents in genuinely remote regions that have insisted on one climber leading everything.

Just seemed odd that in an environment like that, the fact that no one person led every pitch should even be mentioned. In fact, I think if anyone went back to repeat it by being the only one leading, and thereby requiring a support team of purely juggers and haulers, I suspect I'd have less respect fot the ascent than for this far more natural approach.

 Toerag 20 Feb 2024
In reply to UKC News:

Fancy putting a bolt in next to that roof crack 🙄.


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