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continuously training throughout the day in small bursts.

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 climbercool 20 Feb 2024

I have hangboards set up around my house and and I do most of my training spread out over the enitre day with very few concentrated periods more than 10 minutes.  I just do a few pulls up whenever the opportunity/motivation arises.  I'm doing quite a bit cumulatively, probably  averaging about an hour a day if I was to do it all in one session.   While I'm sure this is not the optimal training plan, it fits my lifestyle very well.  My questions is does anyone had any good studies/ experience/ideas as to if this way of training is actually really inaffective and I should change?

 james1978 20 Feb 2024
In reply to climbercool:

You're climbing 8a+ so it seems to be working quite well!

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 midgen 20 Feb 2024
In reply to climbercool:

There's the infamous Emil Abrahamsson technique (or at least that he popularised) , that involves 10 minutes of light hang boarding every day. I've never bothered to follow up and read the studies though.

I am dreadful at sticking to any training that isn't just climbing as much as I can though. 

 ianstevens 20 Feb 2024
In reply to midgen:

The follow up is that it's good for rehab or to return after a break. 

In reply to ianstevens:

Also, for my mildly arthritic fingers, it seems to loosen them off quite well

 mutt 20 Feb 2024
In reply to midge:

> There's the infamous Emil Abrahamsson technique (or at least that he popularised) , that involves 10 minutes of light hang boarding every day. I've never bothered to follow up and read the studies though.

I did follow this through - the technique is based on some experimental measurement of tendons that were extracted from a dead animal and then 'kept alive' for a couple of months. imo extrapolation of that study to a training plan is highly suspect. Who knows what else the famous Emil was doing alongside his miraculous transformational trainign program.  In fact my climbing buddy tried the 40% hang every day for 6 weeks and found he was getting injuries. So no I would steer clear of anything discovered on the internet.

To validate the OPs approach I guess you'd be better just looking how strong people get if they  work lifting and carrying stuff. My postman is ripped!

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 jezb1 20 Feb 2024
In reply to climbercool:

A decent “review” of Emil’s protocol: https://youtu.be/jiVDDPJbqvc?si=IZ5YwEUanp_1Ix2j

 Iamgregp 20 Feb 2024
In reply to climbercool:

I always thought the argument against this type of training is that it's more likely to lead to injury than blocking out a longer period with proper warm up and cool down?

Depends on intensity and load I guess, but if you're looking to push limits of load or endurance, you're not going to get as close to those limits starting off cold and finishing after 10 mins.

 mountainbagger 20 Feb 2024
In reply to climbercool:

I think it is better than nothing but my experience with running (short commute in, run at lunchtime, short commute home) was that I was more likely to get injured and it didn't have the desired training effect. What did help was making the commute in and out longer and dropping the lunchtime run. On the days I ran at lunch I would cycle to/from work instead.

With climbing I guess it's a bit different but if you're training for climbs that aren't short bursts for 10 mins then you'll need to have longer more sustained training sessions to build the endurance. And, this could be my age here, but I need 10 mins just to warm up!

 CantClimbTom 20 Feb 2024
In reply to climbercool:

There's a school of training called "greasing the groove" which involves a higher frequency of training but doing less in a session and avoiding working to failure. It seems to work well for skill based (like olympic weight lifting or learning to play a piano) and also strength based goals as strength is in part a neuromuscular skill. It supposedly  helps getting the motor units to fire more intensely and in better patterns to contract more fibres for peak effort.. getting more strength out of the same sized muscles. That's the sales pitch the greasing the groove enthusiasts give.

The proof of the pudding is in the eating. It seems to produce good results for strength and skills, but no benefits for other things like max muscle hypertrophy for bodybuilding. 

In theory it'd be a good way to hang board, but like I said about puddings.. if it works for you...? then it's working for you 😂.

Keep going while it gives results and you enjoy it 

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