UKC

I’ve heard of the gridlocks in the Peak and I went not too long ago and it was chaos to drive anywhere or find a parking spot, I’m looking for a good crag a bit off the beaten path and not as touristic as the Stanage area, but still has good problems in the 7a+ to 7c range, preferably one that’s compatible with the weather we’re having right now.

What exactly happened with these gridlocks? I've seen the insta video doing the rounds. Doesn't align with the reality I've seen. 

I went to Stanage on Easter Sunday, no traffic issues, got a space at popular end parking at 1030 no problem.

Wasn't Easter Sunday raining though? I went Saturday afternoon in lovely weather and it was super busy. Spaces in the plantation carpark though when we got there mid afternoon, but lots of pretty silly parking half on verges half on the road which was partially blocking the road. 

OP - get a guidebook and look for places you've not heard of before. Chances are they will be quieter, if not you would have heard of them. Parking can be busy everywhere as lots of people beyond climbers visit the Peak, but maybe try looking at the venues west and north of Darley Dale. 

In the area Toby mentions it could be worth you checking out  Rowtor Rocks where I'd be surprised if you have any trouble parking. It's got a reasonable number of problems in your grade range. It'll probably be quiet - but probably also pretty green. Close by you'd have plenty of options at the more popular  Cratcliffe Tor. Last time I went (not very recently) it was easier to get a space at the upper parking on Cliff Lane.

Blackstone Edge, Wimberry, and anything in between basically. Quiet as you like.

I can't remember seeing any 7a+ to 7c crags gridlocked anywhere 

Grinah Stones should be pretty quite

The car park you'd walk in from won't be on a sunny BH weekend.

The 7 mile walk in from Fairholmes is a long way with a bouldering pad.

It's only just under 2 miles from parked on the Woodhead, plus ample free parking in laybys.

Thanks for the help, I’ll keep these in mind, I did hear about rowtor rocks and it looks like a jungle, I think I’d have to go there with a broom and a mop.

Is parking any less crazy in the Chew Valley? I'm coming to the conclusion that even at Stanage numbers of people climbing and problematic parking aren't really related. 

I really enjoyed Rowtor. Some classy problems there. You'll want to let it dry though.

Parking at Dovestones, Binn Green and the surrounding roads in Greenfield is an absolute nightmare if the sun is out, and it's the weekend. During Covid lots of double yellow lines were put down and laybys blocked. These are enforced by the jolly traffic wardens of OMBC at peak times, plus they have traffic coordinators at the entrance to Dovestones to turn traffic away once the carpark is full (mostly weekends).

Parking can be a nuisance in the Chew, go early or go home. Nice crags like West Nab, Blackstone, Buckstones are less bother.

Clifftop Boulders has lots of stars in that grade range. Start at the excellent Clifftop Boulder to warm up. The traverse is great, although I found the up 7as too hard, myself. The left arete looked really cool.

Then there is a load of harder stuff further along, but I haven't tried them, so I probably shouldn't be recommending them. 

It's very exposed to wind so dries really quickly

If you're adamant on parking at Dovestones Res on a sunny weekend in high summer then yes it can be a problem, but outside of that you'll rarely encounter an issue. Plenty of lay-bys or a short extended walk up from Greenfield to take your pick from though!