UKC

Just a few random thoughts from this winter:

1. Peak bouldering is piss compared to Yorkshire. According to the grade tables you should take one grade off from Bs to Vs. Pah. Divide in half more like. Anyway...

2. The Trackside boulder at Curbar now has 4" of wood chippings beneath it, covering all the eroded ground. I guess the Peak Park blokes are responsible. Makes for a great landing as I found pinging off the top of the B5 left of Trackside sans mat (great problem BTW, technical). Any views on that??

3. Two things that aren't piss:
The "B3" crack at the left end of Secret Garden. ROFL. This took me a few determined goes, soon after flashing the lower crux wall on Conan matless. Kinda neat problem but bloody hard!
The "B3" wall at the left end of Tody's playground, can't do this but icy conditions might help as the holds are total gash. And it's reachy. Much harder than the B4 in the middle.

4. The wall at the opposite end of the Pebble to Deliverance is brilliant. Go do it if you haven't. The same applies to Breakfast (RHS of the crappy B3 arete at the far left) at Burbage West which is not hampered by the corner and is great.

5. The Very Very Far Skyline, go there too.

6. Newstones - like Cratcliffe and Doxy's Pool, suffering badly from erosion. Please be extra bloody careful.

In reply to Fiend: no don't go the very very far skyline! i want it to myself!

In reply to Paul at work:

Oh come on, like my recommendation is going to tempt anyone away from Burbage South / Cratcliffe / the other honeypots for the imaginationally stunted...

In reply to Fiend:

Move to Pateley Fiend, you can aford it. The heart of Yorkshire bouldering.

In reply to Fiend:

Never mind that, are we climbing on Friday?

In reply to Offwidth:

<hijack>

Yes! If it dries out. I emailed you.

</hijack>

In reply to Fiend:

God you must be bored, how many threads have you started?!

How come you got so much time to just post and climb mid-week? Haven't you got a job? And if so what are still doing in this country? Get yourself abroad! and stop starting sex and bouldering/grade threads.

J

In reply to Fiend: imaginationally stunted...

cheeky fuk. do u have to enjoy quiet crumbly choss then to have an imagination?


anyway....

totally agree with secret garden b3 crack - totally desperate for the grade.

curbar wood chippings - cool going soon to work strawberries will have to see. b5 left of that - not tried it always meant to - will do next time.

other points:
peak limesrone isnt as bad as people say, infact i like it alot

b vs v grades etc - just because one area completely undergrades or over grades doesnt mean they are hard and better. just cant grade for toffee.

beer mats vs bouldering mats? - if u want to be so ethical and old timer like why not take off your 'cheating' sticky shoes and go back to hob nail boots? use hemp ropes?
the technology of bouldering mats is a good think not bad.

feel free to flame my views i dont care.

In reply to Fiend: ok i will let you off!

Aha! I flashed the crack (except I jumped off the very top) and I very nearly did that B3 on tuesday, I know the sequence, I was just a little tired, therefore I am not as crap as I thought, yay!

In reply to Fiend:

Should have probably added a smiley or two my posting looks a bit harsh reading it back now.

J

In reply to Fiend:
what grade for breakfast????

In reply to Fiend:


I believe the common response to this is to point you at the B7 bencmarks (i.e. longstanding problems in known areas with nnames) of Inertia Real, Help the Aged and Direct Start to Mint 400.

I don't agree with you BTW but if you spend a lot of time at Doxy's Pool I can see why you might think that. Staffordshire Flyer anyone?

In reply to Tyler: I agree with you about help the aged, toook me a substantial amount of effort, skin etc to get that,V6/7 if you're 5'7" perhaps V4/5 if you're above 5'11".

In reply to Fiend:

Do you really believe this - I would say that Peak bouldering just has some grades that are just wrong (not that suprising given when it was produced). Many of the classic problems seem to me to be be correct on the V = B - 1 particular in the middle V5 / V6 grades. The other thing is that some of the easier grades in the peak seem a bit out compared to some desperate V3's / V4's in Yorkshire.

Back to all these easy problems in the peak

B6 / B7 - green traverse (dope on a slope), gorilla warfare,
Teck crack direct / lower tier undercut and mantel problem roaches, B7 problem through Jerry's traverse / B7 version of T-Crack (haven't done proper version) Cratcliffe, Rollin Pat, Eagle Tor (desperate B6 I thought)

From what you're saying these should all be easier than V5's in Yorkshire like Horror Arete / Charlotte Rampling Bridestones, Mansons Wall, Shipley and much easier than V6's like Not My Style, New Jerusalem Caley.

My experience is that this just isn't true. What I would agree with is that in terms of less well known problems there is more chance of finding problems that seem undergraded in yorkshire.

In reply to Ropeboy:


Laff! Both equally depraved aren't they?!

Fiend starts about half a dozen topics in two days. Quick someone call the press/police (delete as applicable).


In reply to Matt G:


Nice one. Any chance of a little stealth beta on the B3?? You gain the two shit pockets (no B2 jug out left), stand on the little shelf, reach up to the shite left hand dimple and the even shiter right hand dimple....then what?


In reply to Anon:


Gets V6 from SS, actually V5. Use the foothook well.



In reply to Tyler and Ian P:

Yeah yeah okay just a little troll there =). But I guess...


...is what I'm mostly referring too. Oh and I also agree with...


But Yorkshire problems are better too :P.

In reply to Fiend:
Was discussing the peak/yprks grade difference a couple of weeks ago (with sloper if memory serves). The general feeling was that the peak is generally easier in the mid grades say V3-V6 with quite a few problems getting grades towards the top end of that spectrum which if in yorkshire might be closer to the bottom end (although really who knows? and obviously there wil be exceptions) However at the 'extremes' i.e. less than V3 and V7+ things seemed pretty much OK. I'm not sure if sloper agreed with me or not (I tend not to listen to him, to much port talk for my tastes) but I'm pretty sure that was the conclusion we drew....

In reply to Fiend:

If you sent an email today it didnt arrive??

I'm not working at all tomorrow as I need a rest after two shitty weeks and only have to do lots of preparation reading for meetings next week that I can do in the evenings. Hence, I'm out whatever and if its not raining you can always climb something in March (forecast is quite good).

I need to know when/where to meet etc or when I can phone you to discuss it.

Ok, here is some stealthy very detailed beta for that B3 on Tody's playground:


There are 3 pockets roughly in a line and all quite cack, these are the start holds. Left hand in LH one, right hand in far right one as the left edge of this is helpful.
Right foot on some crap, left foot rock up onto good foothold.

Next up are 2 pants pockets, rock up on left foot and get the LH one, right foot up onto the round thing and bring right hand up. Now for the hard bit. 2 ways of doing it, if you are long legged then left foot onto pebbly sloper, layaway with right hand (hard!) and rock up to get the jug, I can't quite do it!

Or, there is a pink verticalish foothold just right of the slopey thing, left foot on, twist right and reach up.

I'll get it soon!

In reply to Fiend:

Damn I just remember the main point to all this waffling was to highlight:

7. A cool unlisted problem, on the Mini Prow Boulder at Curbar. Sitting start on the big flatty to the right of the Mini Prow, pull leftwards onto the sidepulls, gain the notch above and mantle. Actually quite a natural line - there's a foot trick.

In reply to Fiend:

U done it Matt??

In reply to Simon:

First ascent! When you were there no less. LOL!

In reply to Fiend:


one word:

Keel