UKC

The package sounded great,a sort of bouldering nirvana, clear crisp cold days sending awesome problems at world class venues, ok pad culture is pretty popular in the states, but surely not that popular, were talking a fringe sport here are we not.
The reality we flew out to California and it snowed shed loads, Nirvana evaporated into hundreds i mean hundreds of boulderers crammed into the Happy and Sad Boulders, polished overused crowded problems and every Americano has a couple of Rotweilers named Satan or such like, all shouting send rad dude.
SO dont believe all the hype about Bishop and bouldering Nirvana, if you like polish and crowds go for it, in reality the climbing in this country or Font is far better, on the other side of the pond were, talking major over comercialisation the mainstream, mass globalisation.

In reply to Limey:

You were unlucky with the weather.

Where the Buttermilks covered in snow?

When the weather is good, which is the norm, and all areas are open it is a bouldering Nirvana.

And there's a lot more on the Volcanic Tableland than just the Happy and Sad Boulders.

M

In reply to Mick

Had some days in the Buttermilks but snow covered, top outs were a lttle hairy, the quality was a lot better here but still very crowded, it seems that more eyeballing is done than sending, with a lot of hero worship, were not worthy.

In reply to Limey: you have the wrong attitude, dude...join the fun, enjoy the company, get with the American way...

In reply to Limey:

Best time to come, if you are travelling from abroad, is November and December, and March and April, although usually Jan and Feb can be perfect if you hit it right. The weather is more reliable than Font.

You have more options at those times too: Sherwin Plateau areas, Crystal Ridge, Huerta Thicket, Smokestack boulders, THC circuit.

Not all the information is available yet.

You are right about the group dynamics. It can be a bit annoying on holiday weekends with the dogs and the hip posse at easier areas like the Happy Boulders.

M

In reply to Mick Aye at least we agree on some points, after the crowds being a reserved mild mannered Englishmen, some quite reflection was in order, so a short stiff walk up to the Druidstones was made, now this place is Nirvana, a little to far off the beaten track for Vin Diesel and his posse. It made the trip.
As(Ian) for getting with the program, the American way is not every ones cup of tea old boy.

In reply to Limey:


discovered and named by some englishman, in fact his wife has gone for hike up there just now

Plant some trees in the valley Mick - its like being on the chuffin moon (not Ben!) until you get to Mammoth. A heeeenusss wasteland, ugly as sin.

Europes where its at

Bite back me crafty butcher

In reply to Limey:

Not the expeience that Ive had when ive been there less packed than the peak with more climbing and less polish .

with the added bonus of lots of different syles of climbing and the different rock types .

Prehaps the problem is with the climber not the area?

In reply to James It was meant to be taken a bit tongue in cheek, i hooked the big fish, i think Mick reacted quite admirably, there is a lot of truth in what i say. At the end of the day wear isn't busy/ popular at weekends/holidays, happy grimping dudes.

In reply to Limey:


There is.

If you are unfortunate with the weather, especially in Jan/Feb and the snow level gets down to 6/7,000ft your options are basically limited to the Happy and Sad Boulders. On weekends at such a time those places will be packed.

I have my hands tied by the Bureau Of Land management as regards what I can write a guide to as regards the Volcanic Tableland (VT)...home to the Happy and Sads. There is much more on the VT, the Lonely Boulders, The Trenches, Meloncholies, and Fish Slough just to mention four areas. I will be doing topos to these areas, but no directions....you have to do some detective work to find them.

When conditions are perfect, like today, your options are many...basically anything below 8,000ft.

Bishop Bouldering is still growing and I'm working on the book now which shall dramatically open up many areas to visitors.

As regards an earlier comment about trees. This area is huge and on a brief visit it is hard to appreciate the scale of the place...and the varied micro-environments. The elevation difference is huge....4,000ft in the Valley with 14,000ft peaks on either side.

If you come in mid-winter, Bishop is pretty drab, as is the desert. In spring until November it is green. The difference is quite dramatic.

For example, sun exposure and slope can make a huge difference between areas that are close. For example, the Peabody boulders in the Buttermilk is treeless.....1/4 mile away at Dales Camp..there are pinyon pines everywhere.

Up at the Sherwin Plateau....20 mile north of Bishop at an elevation of 7,000ft, you will be bouldering in a forest.

It does take a while to get to know this place, and the desert sagebrush scrub and high chapparal is much different than the rolling hills and woods of the UK.

Mick

Hey Mick how about a Bishop top ten classics of all time,
all venues considered and no grade snobbery.

Enjoyed quite a few, even though the weather was a touch inclement, going from the sublime to the ridiculous - The Hulk and Big Chicken were quality, one of my favourites had to be the Buttermilk stem, working so hard for the moves on a V1 awesome(surely a sandbag).

In reply to Limey:

Never tried the Hulk, but agree completely about Big Chicken - top problem. Did you do Heavenly Path - superb highball V1?

Never tried Buttermilk Stem (but will in a couple of week's time based on your comments), and would suggest King Tut as another Buttermilks gem.

In reply to Limey:

Just got back from Bishop yesterday and saw nothing but blue skies and the best bouldering imaginable!

Flashed King Tut V3 with a bit of sketching, took a good

few goes to find the sequence on the Buttermilk Stem V1,

wowzer problem.