In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:
May i present my personal feelings no this subject.
Firstly i think its important to say that from my point of view it not just based on the old "he did XXX thing while no-one was looking" like people used to pull on john dunne. That in itself is not enough to doubt someone, but there are a lot of other factors that Joe Publin on here might not be aware of, which you need to know before judging, which form part of the reasons people have a problem with him. I also say that i come to this with a unbiased opioin, as i have no vested interest in any of these crags as local areas or anything like that.
The Points:
Firstly there is a lack of photos of him on any of these ultra-hard problems, or any independant verifiable witnesses. Now i'm not saying that thats a crime, but if you were putting up the hardest problems in the world you would probably make an effort to at least take a snap of the boulder, or put it on timer to get one of yourself on it, or at least something. You'd realise that 8c was going to attract a lot of scutiny, and try to make life easier for yourself by keeping everything a clear adn accountable as possible so there would be no scope for people to snipe at you (christ even that 8c slab in japan had a photo on a website!). You could argue that Si is the shy retiring type who shuns publicity, but thats blatantly not the case (see his OTE reports and 8a.nu scorecard).
When asked on web fora about the location of these very hard problems in scotland (the 8c etc) he is typically vague, generally answering with a post full of incomprehensible distractions and smileys. He also did a topo on scottish climbs of the area with the 8c and neglected to show where the 8c was, which seems strange. I'f i'd done a potential 8c i'd be sure as hell keen to show it to people. if the description on scottish climbs of the 8v was accurate then it would be the best problem in the world. why report it then be reluctant to give any concrete details about it?
(I belive he also has a record of misleading topos etc containing hard problems in the lakes but am not sure whether this is of note.)
There is serious suspicion that users posting on various fora to back his claims up are in fact Si himself. These are based upon the fact that the posting styles are often identical, not to mention speculation that many are posted from the same computer.
There are/have been a number of discrepancies on his 8a scorecard and new problem reports, as well as a number of fancyfull claims. these include claims of 8a problems casuasully done "by mistake" over death landings (is anyone in the world that good/bold/stupid?) that the details of have subsequently dissappeared, not to mention problems like extradition claimed on 8a.nu before they were completed.
Then there other strange reports like the E9 with font 8a crux miles about bad gear. Now that either isn't E9, or it isn't an 8a crux - it don't add up.
Also it seems that he doesn't have a record of doing hard problems other than his own anywhere. I can't think of many other 8c FA ascendees that hadn't done confimed problems of a similar grade put up by other key players prior their ascents. Even gaskins came to the peak and did 8ball, tried fatman in font and did 8b+s there erc. The obvious question is if you've not done or tried 8cs, 8b+s or 8bs in america, europe or font, or indeed elsewhere in the UK, then how do you come by the conclusion that your problem is 8c?
Now thats just my personal take on this subject, trying to look at it with a bit of common sense. Personally i'd like to think that there is this quiet scottish guy going aroung doing hard stuff, but he's just given me too much scope for doubt.