UKC

What is it with all this Si O'Conner Bashing?

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
OP Michael Ryan 17 May 2004
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:

It continues at the kindergarten......

http://www.ukbouldering.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=2157
Paul Saunders 17 May 2004
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:

Surely you can't "nick" a problem? You can either do it or not...

No-one owns the rock... Quite sad.

I know nowt about his style of ascent, but this reads as sour grapes to me, (as a non-interested observer).
 Stuart S 17 May 2004
In reply to Paul Saunders:

As I understand things, Si was given a tour of the Craigmarroin boulders on the Aberdeen coast by some of the locals, which included him being shown a particular project of the guy who found and developed the boulders in the first place.

When no one else was around, Si then climbed the project, giving it a grade of Font 8b.

Locals are now pissed off that Si showed a lack of manners/ethics in respecting what he had been shown was a project of someone elses, and are also expressing doubt as to the validity of the ascent/grade due to questionable conditions and the speed of the ascent.

Si, in his defence, reckons that the line when he found it was dirty and had not been attempted by anyone else before.

Think that's it in a nutshell.

Pity I missed all the fun - I was on the next crag north up the coast at the time...
 Stuart S 17 May 2004
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:

p.s. thought you'd been expelled from the kindergarden, Mick?
Paul Saunders 17 May 2004
In reply to Stuart S:
> (In reply to Paul Saunders)
> As I understand things, Si was given a tour of the Craigmarroin boulders on the Aberdeen coast by some of the locals, which included him being shown a particular project of the guy who found and developed the boulders in the first place.

IMHO that's irrelevant, I mean should we have left the Alps to the French.

> When no one else was around, Si then climbed the project, giving it a grade of Font 8b.

So it's an uncorroborated ascent? Perhaps he did do it though. He should be able to repeat it if he wants to end the furore. Unless he's a big history of unconfirmed stuff I'd choose to believe him...

> Locals are now pissed off that Si showed a lack of manners/ethics in respecting what he had been shown was a project of someone elses,

How sad. "are you local?" Then f*ck off off our rock. I know there's other routes/problems out there, but you can't reserve your own!!! So maybe it's a betrayal of a friends trust, not IMO of any rock ethics. I bet these new routers (who must be pretty damn good) scoff at personality fights online. Isn't this the same thing then?

Obviously replying to the topic and not directly to you Stuart!

Off to work have a good un.

 Stuart S 17 May 2004
In reply to Paul Saunders:


> Unless he's a big history of unconfirmed stuff I'd choose to believe him...

Unfortunately, he has a big history of unconfirmed stuff...

> How sad. "are you local?" Then f*ck off off our rock.

Not sure of the details, but I suspect it's because the locals took the time to show Si how to find the boulders and showed him the project in the first place. If they hadn't done that, then possibly he'd not have spotted the project as something to climb. Dunno - just speculating. And of course, the counter-arguement is that the place is in the guidebook and the project crossed one of the largest roofs at the venue and so was a natural challenge.
concerned member of the public 17 May 2004
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:

May i present my personal feelings no this subject.

Firstly i think its important to say that from my point of view it not just based on the old "he did XXX thing while no-one was looking" like people used to pull on john dunne. That in itself is not enough to doubt someone, but there are a lot of other factors that Joe Publin on here might not be aware of, which you need to know before judging, which form part of the reasons people have a problem with him. I also say that i come to this with a unbiased opioin, as i have no vested interest in any of these crags as local areas or anything like that.

The Points:

Firstly there is a lack of photos of him on any of these ultra-hard problems, or any independant verifiable witnesses. Now i'm not saying that thats a crime, but if you were putting up the hardest problems in the world you would probably make an effort to at least take a snap of the boulder, or put it on timer to get one of yourself on it, or at least something. You'd realise that 8c was going to attract a lot of scutiny, and try to make life easier for yourself by keeping everything a clear adn accountable as possible so there would be no scope for people to snipe at you (christ even that 8c slab in japan had a photo on a website!). You could argue that Si is the shy retiring type who shuns publicity, but thats blatantly not the case (see his OTE reports and 8a.nu scorecard).

When asked on web fora about the location of these very hard problems in scotland (the 8c etc) he is typically vague, generally answering with a post full of incomprehensible distractions and smileys. He also did a topo on scottish climbs of the area with the 8c and neglected to show where the 8c was, which seems strange. I'f i'd done a potential 8c i'd be sure as hell keen to show it to people. if the description on scottish climbs of the 8v was accurate then it would be the best problem in the world. why report it then be reluctant to give any concrete details about it?

(I belive he also has a record of misleading topos etc containing hard problems in the lakes but am not sure whether this is of note.)

There is serious suspicion that users posting on various fora to back his claims up are in fact Si himself. These are based upon the fact that the posting styles are often identical, not to mention speculation that many are posted from the same computer.

There are/have been a number of discrepancies on his 8a scorecard and new problem reports, as well as a number of fancyfull claims. these include claims of 8a problems casuasully done "by mistake" over death landings (is anyone in the world that good/bold/stupid?) that the details of have subsequently dissappeared, not to mention problems like extradition claimed on 8a.nu before they were completed.

Then there other strange reports like the E9 with font 8a crux miles about bad gear. Now that either isn't E9, or it isn't an 8a crux - it don't add up.

Also it seems that he doesn't have a record of doing hard problems other than his own anywhere. I can't think of many other 8c FA ascendees that hadn't done confimed problems of a similar grade put up by other key players prior their ascents. Even gaskins came to the peak and did 8ball, tried fatman in font and did 8b+s there erc. The obvious question is if you've not done or tried 8cs, 8b+s or 8bs in america, europe or font, or indeed elsewhere in the UK, then how do you come by the conclusion that your problem is 8c?

Now thats just my personal take on this subject, trying to look at it with a bit of common sense. Personally i'd like to think that there is this quiet scottish guy going aroung doing hard stuff, but he's just given me too much scope for doubt.
Stuart Wood 17 May 2004
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:

On one of Si s many user profiles he claims the second ascent of a Birkett E8 in the lakes called caution... This is a blatant lie.
 tony 17 May 2004
In reply to concerned member of the public:

I understand that Malcolm Smith, Garteh Parry and Andy Earl are heading up to Skye sometime soon to try some of Si's problems. It would be nice to think that that will prove things one way or another. (Apologies to any of the aforementioned threesome if I've heard the gossip wrong).
m@ 17 May 2004
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:

Ukbouldering, what a laugh.

It gives those people who are actually serious about bouldering a terribly bad name.

what the hell is with all those smiley faces and as for people signing off "catch it, match it, dispatch it" what a bunch of wasters.

it makes rocktalk look positively grown up.

anyway i'm off.

m@

"clog it, blog it, flog it - dude"
 Rob Naylor 17 May 2004
In reply to Paul Saunders:
> (In reply to Stuart S)
> [...]
>
> > How sad. "are you local?" Then f*ck off off our rock. I know there's other routes/problems out there, but you can't reserve your own!!! So maybe it's a betrayal of a friends trust, not IMO of any rock ethics. I bet these new routers (who must be pretty damn good) scoff at personality fights online. Isn't this the same thing then?

I think, historically, it's generally been accepted that if people at the "cutting edge" are made aware of problems being worked by others, they stay away from them for a reasonable time.

Obviously, if someone's dragging out a project for ages and not getting anywhere, then bets are off, but I think it's normally accepted as good manners and ethics to give someone a "clear run" at a problem for a while if (s)he's gone to the trouble of showing it to you.
concerned 17 May 2004
In reply to m@:

thats pretty rich coming from someone who's profile reads

Perambulation AND elevation in FontaineBLEAU, taking CHANG in Himalaya, PUKING in Chamonix, riding the TAXIS to Tafraoute, taking the bus to CAMP FOUR, my friend Seat IBIZA speeding through Chorro to the station bar. "HEY lady, I likes your moustachio." Wax on WAX off. Being AMUSED in Yorkshire. Humbling failure. Those are the days, in MY head, at least.

Favourite Climbing-Related Discussion Topic
Strength (insert semi colon here) the journey to and FROM. Up and down, up and down, up and down, down. STOP.

Interests Outside Climbing
Triathlon. WEARING my wetsuit - puff, pant. Attempting to GET irreversably strong. Jocky WILSON.

Anything Else We Should Know
"Next stop Awahnee HOTEL?" "No, take me and these people to Degnans delicatessen. Hey Degnan! (catches attention) NICE shoes" (smiles). FIN


maybe you should try contributing to other forums before judging them.

Anonymous 17 May 2004
In reply to m@:
> Ukbouldering, what a laugh.
> It gives those people who are actually serious about bouldering a terribly bad name.
Go look through the memberlist of ukb - you'll find a high proportion of the best boulderers in the UK on there. But of course, they're not serious about bouldering. Unlike you of course, serious and a moody tw@.

> what the hell is with all those smiley faces
Durrrrr!! Read the Si O'Connor posts and you might realise.

>and as for people signing off "catch it, match it, dispatch >it" what a bunch of wasters.
As opposed to signing your name as "m@" which is really clever, cool and grown up.

Tosser.
matt swopped for m@, how clever 17 May 2004
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:

woah awopping matt for m@, what a stroke of genius, your so mature and grown up aren't you! Please show us the way great one.
1
 Simon Caldwell 17 May 2004
In reply to m@:

Your point appears to have been proved
m@ 17 May 2004
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

Indeed. I feel rather smug now.

m@
sloper 17 May 2004
In reply to m@: send it dood, you're the amn, like wow, laterzzzzz
Carnage 17 May 2004
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA: Its much funnier on the planetfear forum.
simon cox 17 May 2004
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:

U r an old hand, if you don't mind me saying... do you remember all this gentlemanly conduct around not pinching other peoples routes/ problems in your days?

From my own experience new routers where possible guard their projects with the utmost secrecy. So showing an aledgedly top boulderer your pet project an own goal I think?

Did he? didn't he? yawn...

The Voice of Reason 17 May 2004
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA: It doesn't really matter, as it isn't real climbing!
richard bradley @ work 17 May 2004
In reply to matt swopped for m@, how clever: BUK is actually an ok site. But rising to the bait on here proves a point,I'm just not sure what point.
Anonymous 17 May 2004
In reply to richard bradley @ work:
> (In reply to matt swopped for m@, how clever) BUK is actually an ok site. But rising to the bait on here proves a point,I'm just not sure what point.
It's all just a bit of fun...

m@ 17 May 2004
In reply to richard bradley @ work:

I'm sure it is. It's just so overloaded with unneccessary made up pseudo-californian vernacular, which is made so much less palatable by the fact it's coming from the minds of people most probably brought up in places like Todmerdon and Barnsley.
 LakesWinter 17 May 2004
In reply to Carnage: that is the funniest forum in the world
richard bradley @ work 17 May 2004
In reply to MattG: Now that is a bad forum. In desparate need of moderation. Or nuking?
Craig_M 17 May 2004
In reply to m@:
> It's just so overloaded with unneccessary made up pseudo-californian vernacular,

You mean such things as people signing off with things like "laterzzz"?
Carnage 17 May 2004
In reply to richard bradley @ work: Nah - They should leave PF as it is- Always good for a laugh.
richard bradley @ work 17 May 2004
In reply to m@: It's given away by signing off as t' dude.
m@ 17 May 2004
In reply to Craig_M:

Bugger. People remember.



m@
Anonymous 17 May 2004
In reply to m@:
> (In reply to richard bradley @ work)
>
> I'm sure it is. It's just so overloaded with unneccessary made up pseudo-californian vernacular, which is made so much less palatable by the fact it's coming from the minds of people most probably brought up in places like Todmerdon and Barnsley.


ever thought that its actualy a spoof, a lighthearted pisstake? I bet you were writing into the ITC complaining when that Brasseye paedo special went out wern't you?
 Graeme 17 May 2004
In reply to Anonymous: Christ I don't know why your getting so upset, all boulderers in the uk do is climb small rocks, its not like its gonna change the world. He's only pointing out its a pretty sad pre-occupation to have to speak like your from the other side of the world when you may as well just get on with it.
 Adam Lincoln 17 May 2004
In reply to Graeme:

Heard of Irony...?
richard bradley @ work 17 May 2004
In reply to Anonymous:
> (In reply to m@)
> [...]
>
>
> I bet you were writing into the ITC complaining when that Brasseye paedo special went out wern't you?

You mean it wasn't?

rack and pinion 17 May 2004
In reply to mtw@:

What kind of peni crams his user gallery full of photos of himself? You self obsessed git. Personally I'm glad we're on here proving your point, it means we don't have to put up with any more of "your" kind.
rack and pinion 17 May 2004
OP Michael Ryan 17 May 2004
In reply to rack and pinion:

Calm down ukboulders.
I wanna be sponsored 17 May 2004
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:

anyone know how i can get sponsored by teammaximuscle. Looks well trendy.
m@ 17 May 2004
In reply to rack and pinion:

Anonymity is a beautiful thing.

m@
rack and pinion 17 May 2004
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:

Oh yeah, sorry Mick, the man who knows when not to cross the line.
rack and pinion 17 May 2004
In reply to m@:

like your mum.
Anonymous 17 May 2004
In reply to m@:
Hey Pr@ might want change the grade of Screaming Slave on your profile gallery that betas V6/fnt7a not 7b+!

Thought someone so "serious" about bouldering would have got that right!!
Craig_M 17 May 2004
In reply to rack and pinion:

If you are indeed a poster on UKB, do you act like such a tit on there too? I rather doubt it, as it seems to me that such idiocy isn't tolerated. So what makes you think it's ok on another forum?
m@ 17 May 2004
In reply to Anonymous:

For accuracy, someone else may have a pic of me saying 7b+.
in my photo gallery, its 7a+.

But you're correct, probably a little over graded, even at that.

At least we agree on something.

m@
rack an pinion 17 May 2004
In reply to Craig_M:

Oh riiight, so idiocy isn't tolerated on UKB? Pray tell, if you're not on here to insult UKB, or indeed stand up for it. Then why are you here at all? Have a vested interest in M@'s Mum?
 catt 17 May 2004
In reply to rack an pinion:

what is the average age of people on ukbouldering, i'm guessing it sounds about 15 from all the pish being talked.

your mum
Anonymous 17 May 2004
In reply to catt:
> (In reply to rack an pinion)
> what is the average age of people on ukbouldering, i'm guessing it sounds about 15 from all the pish being talked.

I think the youngest probably is about 15 or 16, and the oldest will probably be Scott Blunk who used to climb with US greats such as Jim Holloway, Jim Sherman, etc, back in the day.

Actually Craig_M is correct (and a registered ukb user), such abuse would be moderated down on ukb, unless it was clear that it was tongue in cheek.
Craig_M 17 May 2004
In reply to rack an pinion:

I'm not here to stand up for, or to insult anyone, although I may make an exception in your case. UKB is a decent site of its type and doesn't need defending as far as I can see. The same goes with this one. However, it is rather sad that you can't find anything better to employ your limited number of working brain cells, than a transparent attempt at stirring up bad feeling between users of both sites.
Anonymous 17 May 2004
In reply to catt:

> what is the average age of people on ukbouldering, i'm guessing it sounds about 15 from all the pish being talked.

A little research would have saved yourself the embarassment of posting the above comment.

http://ukbouldering.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=1583
richard bradley @ work 17 May 2004
In reply to Anonymous: I don't think catt need be embarrassed given the childish drivel put up in 'defence' of UKB.
Craig_M 17 May 2004
In reply to richard bradley @ work:

I think if you go back and look carefully, you'll see that the vast majority of the "childish drivel" was posted by one person with the sole intention of shit stirring, not defending anything.
The other 2 replies to m@ don't seem unreasonable under the circumstances to me.
richard bradley @ work 17 May 2004
In reply to Craig_M: Can't be bothered. I read UKB regularly and used to post there. They nicked my login thing when I wasn't able to post for a few months .

It's a useful and interesting site and doesn't need defending.

If any of the UKB people know who the child is, have a word, otherwise Rocktalk could turn into the planetfear forum and that would serve no-one.

Had my say.
Anonymous 17 May 2004
In reply to richard bradley @ work:
> They nicked my login thing when I wasn't able to post for > a few months .
That wouldn't happen - contact ukb with your username and it'll get sorted. Sometimes, accounts get locked if they're not used for a very long time.
rack an pinion 17 May 2004
In reply to all:

My posts were a concoction of tongue in cheek and Monday blues. No offence meant to M@'s gf, was just takin a cheap shot. She's hardly a munter is she?

But M@ seriously, think before you post. At least I took the precaution of being anonymous before posting idiotic rantings!
richard bradley @ work 17 May 2004
In reply to Anonymous: I'll e-mail them when I get a chance. Be warned that the avereage age will shoot up well past adolescence!
 catt 17 May 2004
In reply to Anonymous:
> (In reply to catt)
> A little research would have saved yourself the embarassment of posting the above comment.

well thats nice. except i have no embarassment to save over my comment. i also don't think it is that harsh a comment yet you seem to be rising nicley to it.

i believe it is a valid comment based on reading the ukb thread linked to above. it does appear that it is mostly 4 or 5 individuals who are contributing most to it so i am not going to judge the whole ukb from that.

you shouldn't take things so literally, just because i think they sound 15 doesn't mean i think they are.

i should also add i think similar thoughts reading some of the stuff on this forum too.

as for mr. o'connor we should leave hom alone, he is a person with feelings. he climbed something that it sounds like no one had even tried for a long time. i don't believe anyone has the right to 'reserve' bits of rock, especially for bouldering.

catt
Anonymous 18 May 2004
In reply to m@:
"by - m@ on - 01 Dec 2003
In reply to kms:

Selecta, easy now.

Bontempi.

m@ "
Sound familiar?Is this what is known as pseudo californian vernacular?
richard bradley @ work 18 May 2004
In reply to m@: Both sides are using the same irony arguement now. Shirley time to give up? (Smiley face thing here)
m@ 18 May 2004
In reply to richard bradley @ work:

I know, I'm bored, tired and very busy.

So to all Ukboulder people, I'm sorry for "dissing" you.

m@

Cruel irony is a fickle mistress....

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...