UKC

bishop's rib

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jude s 17 Jun 2004
Where is bishop's rib in the E1-grade range? does it have 1 or more cruxes?

Any recommendations at Chair ladder in the HVS/E1 range?.
carl 17 Jun 2004
In reply to jude s: diocese!
 Fiend 17 Jun 2004
In reply to jude s:

A very fine route, felt standard for the grade, I found the crux a little bit tricky but that's because I was knackered from a one-pitch ascent of:

Midnight Runner, over to the right hand side, is another great climb with continuous and gradually escalating climbing.
 John2 17 Jun 2004
In reply to jude s: The crux is quite low down - balancey rather than strenuous. It used to be given HVS, but was upgraded when a runnner placement on the crux disintegrated.
 Horse 17 Jun 2004
In reply to carl:

Good route with varried climbing, although I did manage to contrive to fall off the second pitch in a display of considerable incompetence. Can't remember The Rib although I think we did it after Diocese so was probably still having the p*ss ripped out of me.
 GrahamD 18 Jun 2004
In reply to John2:

I think it was upgraded when a substantial piece of the cliff fell off many years ago. The picture in my copy of hard rock is totally different to the way it is now !

Pitch 1 has the crux which is getting established in the niche before the overlap - brilliantly protected throughout by small (1s and 2s) wires. Pitch 2 would probably get HVS 5a on its own and it is superb.

Kittiwake is a good HVS with some real climbing wall style jugs.
 Paz 18 Jun 2004
In reply to jude s:

HVS /E1's, well fine if you're desperate to climb that grade there, Excelsior is a fine testing outing, but quality wise after you've done the rib, the HVS/E1s aren't as good as the VSs: diocese, Mitre and South Face Direct which are totally classic (the latter two of which are doable in highish tides if you skip the first (wet) pitch of Mitre).
OP Anonymous 18 Jun 2004
In reply to Paz: South Face Direct is no soft touch for a VS either. Everything in Cornwall seems so hard on account of the heat and sweat.
carl 18 Jun 2004
In reply to Fiend: midnightrunner might be a little bit harder now....last year my partner was pulling on the flakey bit on the second pitch when it ripped off in his hand..one helicoptor ride later he is ok now!!! (his gear held but his ankle didnt)
the rescue guys thought that it was probably going to be a grade harder now ,they checked it as they returned our pro..what good guys they are!!!
carl 18 Jun 2004
In reply to jude s: forgot flannel avenue HS BUT FANTASTIC!!!
OP jude s 18 Jun 2004
In reply to Paz:

I know the vs's are good!! Diocese was my favourite route for a long time and I thought south face direct was pretty tough at the time.

Have you done many routes at Carn Barra?
I haven't climbed much at Sennen apart from Demo route-any recommendations there?
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