This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
I have seen on other threads people talking about there ape index. I take it they mean reach? If so how do you work out what it is? Is it reach to height or something like that.
Thanks for any help.
Thanks for any help.
In reply to Rebox: Assume your Jesus Christ Pose and then...
Ape Index = fingertip to fingertip distance - height
generally expressed in inches.
Ape Index = fingertip to fingertip distance - height
generally expressed in inches.
In reply to Rebox:
Yep, there was this guy who was 6ft 2 and said he had an ape index of +7, that must be awesome.
Please post your ape index's and lets see what the average ape index is by posters. It would be interesting as it's one of the few things that can be measured and has been found to affect climbing ability.
Yep, there was this guy who was 6ft 2 and said he had an ape index of +7, that must be awesome.
Please post your ape index's and lets see what the average ape index is by posters. It would be interesting as it's one of the few things that can be measured and has been found to affect climbing ability.
and in general the more +ve your APE index the better you should be - which explains why I'm so crap at climbing as my APE index is about -1 inch.
In reply to Ropeboy:
But don't we also need to know what people's climbing abiltity is in order to see whether APE index does affect climbing abililty. And I suppose we should be just talking pure tech ability ie. leading grade is irrelevant.
But don't we also need to know what people's climbing abiltity is in order to see whether APE index does affect climbing abililty. And I suppose we should be just talking pure tech ability ie. leading grade is irrelevant.
Neil Bentley is 5'10" and his span is 6'6", so an ape index of +8". That's the biggest I've heard of.
<spam>
ape index is also a series of enthralling evenings of climbing entertainment keeping Sheffield climbers sane through the long, dark winter. And will be starting again early in the New Year with John Redhead appearing. I'll go now, shall I?
</spam>
<spam>
ape index is also a series of enthralling evenings of climbing entertainment keeping Sheffield climbers sane through the long, dark winter. And will be starting again early in the New Year with John Redhead appearing. I'll go now, shall I?
</spam>
In reply to Ropeboy:
Height 5'7''
Ape Index -3
. . . and get very pissed off with lanky routesetters
Height 5'7''
Ape Index -3
. . . and get very pissed off with lanky routesetters
In reply to JonC3:
"and in general the more +ve your APE index the better you should be - which explains why I'm so crap at climbing as my APE index is about -1 inch."
Well obviously, I mean look how crap Midgets is with the same ape index...
"and in general the more +ve your APE index the better you should be - which explains why I'm so crap at climbing as my APE index is about -1 inch."
Well obviously, I mean look how crap Midgets is with the same ape index...
In reply to Ropeboy:
I'm 5'8 with a reach of 6'2
so +4. Damn, another excuse blown, there must be some other reason for me being such a shite climber !
Bod
I'm 5'8 with a reach of 6'2
so +4. Damn, another excuse blown, there must be some other reason for me being such a shite climber !
Bod
In reply to Anonymous:
Oops, I started this thread and din't put my own own, +1, I think it was, can't remember. It really helps wile away those winter evenings, drawing little pencil lines on the wall.
Midgets, I can't believe you're -1, I'm even more impressed with your climbing ability now.
No wonder Neil Bentley's so good plus all the hard training he's put in. Do you think your arms stretch over the years from hanging on them, maybe your index increases over the years, I doubt it, but it would be funny.
Oops, I started this thread and din't put my own own, +1, I think it was, can't remember. It really helps wile away those winter evenings, drawing little pencil lines on the wall.
Midgets, I can't believe you're -1, I'm even more impressed with your climbing ability now.
No wonder Neil Bentley's so good plus all the hard training he's put in. Do you think your arms stretch over the years from hanging on them, maybe your index increases over the years, I doubt it, but it would be funny.
In reply to Ropeboy:
I've decided there's some truth in the old "short lever" theory. i.e it's easier to be strong if you've got little arms. I've got a great photo of Neil taken at Raven's Tor with a wide angle lens - the lens stretches the perspective and makes him look like a circus freak.
I've decided there's some truth in the old "short lever" theory. i.e it's easier to be strong if you've got little arms. I've got a great photo of Neil taken at Raven's Tor with a wide angle lens - the lens stretches the perspective and makes him look like a circus freak.
In reply to Bod: Looks like yours should be +6 (12' in a foot!).
Mine ..... 5'8", span 5'11" so +3. Interestingly the same "best lead" grade.
Chiz.
G.
Mine ..... 5'8", span 5'11" so +3. Interestingly the same "best lead" grade.
Chiz.
G.
In reply to midgets of the world unite:
I get tired of hearing tall people complaining about long lever's. I don't hear them complaining the rest of the time (about 90% of the time that is) when they reach holds easily that are juuuust out of reach.
I get tired of hearing tall people complaining about long lever's. I don't hear them complaining the rest of the time (about 90% of the time that is) when they reach holds easily that are juuuust out of reach.
In reply to Ropeboy:
I'm sure they get tired of me complaining about lack of reach too! Think that'll stop me?
>
> I get tired of hearing tall people complaining about long lever's. I don't hear them complaining the rest of the time (about 90% of the time that is) when they reach holds easily that are juuuust out of reach.
> I get tired of hearing tall people complaining about long lever's. I don't hear them complaining the rest of the time (about 90% of the time that is) when they reach holds easily that are juuuust out of reach.
I'm sure they get tired of me complaining about lack of reach too! Think that'll stop me?
In reply to Ropeboy: Lets face it J, you hear more shortarses complaining about lack of reach than us fully grown types complaining about long levers. I have never heard one tall person complain, but hear the stunteds moan about lack of reach just about every time I climb.
Plus 2" btw
Plus 2" btw
In reply to Graham Ad:
Doh ! I was testing you...no really I was....
Bod
> Looks like yours should be +6 (12' in a foot!).
Doh ! I was testing you...no really I was....
Bod
In reply to Tyler:
There's nothing anatomically perfect about you!
There's nothing anatomically perfect about you!
In reply to Rebox:
Positive ape index does not necessarily mean long arms. As span is a measurement from finger tip to finger tip, the width of your chest/shoulders is a large factor. It therefore does not naturally mean that you will be able to reach a higher hold than a person with a smaller ape index. Only if you are undercutting a low hold and reaching up at full stretch for a higher one does it really have an effect.
Negative or zero ape index is frequently used as an excuse for failing/struggling on a climb, when really it is ability (or lack of) that is the problem. I climb with people who are shorter than me and have different ape indexes, but they still manage to burn me off.
6' tall span 6'2" - Ape Index +2 - Best Lead: Trad E3 6a, Sport 7b, Solo E5 6b.
Positive ape index does not necessarily mean long arms. As span is a measurement from finger tip to finger tip, the width of your chest/shoulders is a large factor. It therefore does not naturally mean that you will be able to reach a higher hold than a person with a smaller ape index. Only if you are undercutting a low hold and reaching up at full stretch for a higher one does it really have an effect.
Negative or zero ape index is frequently used as an excuse for failing/struggling on a climb, when really it is ability (or lack of) that is the problem. I climb with people who are shorter than me and have different ape indexes, but they still manage to burn me off.
6' tall span 6'2" - Ape Index +2 - Best Lead: Trad E3 6a, Sport 7b, Solo E5 6b.
In reply to Chris Fryer:
Hiya buddy,
I know, it's just us shorties are secretly jealous! (shhhh!)
Makes us try harder though!
Hiya buddy,
I know, it's just us shorties are secretly jealous! (shhhh!)
Makes us try harder though!
In reply to MarkH:
Surely, the important measurement is tip-toes to outstretched finger-tips? How often does success on a route entail clasping the rock in the most extensive bear-hug you can?
Surely, the important measurement is tip-toes to outstretched finger-tips? How often does success on a route entail clasping the rock in the most extensive bear-hug you can?
In reply to Rebox: 5Ft 4 tall 5Ft 9 reach
In reply to anonymouse:
I agree that tip-toe to outstretched finger-tips is more important, but that is dependant on height - not ape index - and that is the point I was trying to make (albeit badly).
I agree that tip-toe to outstretched finger-tips is more important, but that is dependant on height - not ape index - and that is the point I was trying to make (albeit badly).
In reply to Rebox: Im 6ft 1", with an ape index of +7"
In reply to Ropeboy: I know how you feel, but sometimes, if I get a hold that people taller than me can't get, they have no excuse since I'm 4'8".
P.S what's your climing grade
P.S what's your climing grade
In reply to Charlie D:
One of the bonus' of being short is that you develop a lot of technique to overcome the height disadvantage and/or strength
English 6b.
One of the bonus' of being short is that you develop a lot of technique to overcome the height disadvantage and/or strength
English 6b.
In reply to Ropeboy: Sorry about the **** above, I was replying 2 1 of your earlier messages about the 6'2" guy who's ape span or whatever it's called (I've forgotten the name) is 7+. I'm climing the same as you since I can onsite any "unreachy" 6a.
In reply to Charlie D:
Hello Charlie,
Checked out your profile and I'm well impressed, keep up the good work you'll make a great climber.
Happy Christmas Charlie D.
John
Hello Charlie,
Checked out your profile and I'm well impressed, keep up the good work you'll make a great climber.
Happy Christmas Charlie D.
John
In reply to Rebox: just checking if i can reply soz
In reply to Ropeboy:
"ape index.....would be interesting as it's one of the few things that can be measured and has been found to affect climbing ability."
It has? Who by? Sounds like cobblers to me.
6'. AI +6".
"ape index.....would be interesting as it's one of the few things that can be measured and has been found to affect climbing ability."
It has? Who by? Sounds like cobblers to me.
6'. AI +6".
In reply to Rebox:
I'm a below average 5'9" and have an ape of 6'4" so thats an impresive 7". I think i might have hung off my arms to much as a kid!
I'm a below average 5'9" and have an ape of 6'4" so thats an impresive 7". I think i might have hung off my arms to much as a kid!
In reply to Spider: An impressive 7 inches, so what? Its not what you drive its where you park;, err are we talking about the same thing?
In reply to TimB: Could be, how many strokes do you take on a single round? Ever got a birdie let alone hole in one? And whats the equivilant of a four ball?
In reply to Rebox:
6'4" or 6'5" (been a while since I checked)
Ape Index roughly 0 (again, last time I checked)
6'4" or 6'5" (been a while since I checked)
Ape Index roughly 0 (again, last time I checked)
In reply to all:
Further up the thread someone put that Neil Bentley's ape index was +7. It would be great to find what the ape index's of other "well known" climbers is. So if you know any "well known" climbers who don't come on here or are a bit shy can you find out what their ape index is.
Would be great to get;
Malcolm Smith, Ron, Ben and Jerry, Dunne, Dawes, Whittacker, Bransby, Heason, Adrian Berry, Gresham, Cubbitt, McClure, Birkett, etc just off the top of my head.
Might help to see if there is anything in this ape index theory...
Further up the thread someone put that Neil Bentley's ape index was +7. It would be great to find what the ape index's of other "well known" climbers is. So if you know any "well known" climbers who don't come on here or are a bit shy can you find out what their ape index is.
Would be great to get;
Malcolm Smith, Ron, Ben and Jerry, Dunne, Dawes, Whittacker, Bransby, Heason, Adrian Berry, Gresham, Cubbitt, McClure, Birkett, etc just off the top of my head.
Might help to see if there is anything in this ape index theory...
In reply to Ropeboy: Ben Moon is 5'10", ape index +2. Disclaimer: i am not a trainspotter, it was in ote a couple of years ago.
In reply to Jamesbmp:
When we used to do the bottle pushing comps in the pub not many people beat Don Whillans who was under 6 ft tall.
I was only beaten by a 6' 3" bloke in one comp and I am only a short 5' 9". The stretch out or up is something you learn and refine, try reaching a hold that is 2" out of your reach and then put £5 on your being able to reach it. you will do it.
When we used to do the bottle pushing comps in the pub not many people beat Don Whillans who was under 6 ft tall.
I was only beaten by a 6' 3" bloke in one comp and I am only a short 5' 9". The stretch out or up is something you learn and refine, try reaching a hold that is 2" out of your reach and then put £5 on your being able to reach it. you will do it.
In reply to Rebox:
6'4'' tall
6'6'' Span
so only +2
Believe me, the benfits from being tall are far outwayed by the constant abuse I get from all you midgets out there.
6'4'' tall
6'6'' Span
so only +2
Believe me, the benfits from being tall are far outwayed by the constant abuse I get from all you midgets out there.
In reply to Adrian Paisey: seconded, especially when you then get burned off by a 5ft eleven year old....
In reply to jude o: eh? what do you mean?
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...