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Rock "improvement" at Beacon Hill (Leicester)

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 the sheep 07 Jul 2004
Paul and i were bouldering away at Beacon last night and we noticed that there had been some imporovement of a smeer on the wall of Third Time Lucky, the 5c face opposite Star Ship Trooper on No3 Crag. It looked like someone had vigourously scraped the area with a nut key to improve the friction. Its doubtful this was done by a none climber as there was no other damage in the area and the improvemt would aid in the ascent of the route. Its all rather sad realy. If you cant do the route just accept it.
 Fiend 07 Jul 2004
In reply to the sheep:

Sucks =(. Nice little problem too.
 Paul at work 07 Jul 2004
In reply to the sheep: do you think that someone whats an easy E1 tick? Chase the grade time! And before anyone comments i know its not really E1!
OP the sheep 07 Jul 2004
In reply to Paul at work:
Quite probably. Either that or someone getting pissed of that its their normal grade and they cant do it because Beacon has very little friction. Whichever its sad that someone has to resort to this just to gain a tick.
 Paul at work 07 Jul 2004
In reply to the sheep: hows the new guide coming along? if you need any help let me know, have done alot of climbing around the leicestershire area in the past and still do now and again when i pop over to my parents.
 Barra 07 Jul 2004
In reply to the sheep:

Easy Sheepy, I'll check it out! It's been done recent though as it wasn't there 3 weeks ago!!!

Luv Barra! xx
OP the sheep 07 Jul 2004
In reply to Paul at work:
> hows the new guide coming along? if you need any help let me know, have done alot of climbing around the leicestershire area in the past and still do now and again when i pop over to my parents.

We are still going round a lot of places seeing if there is any worth mentioning (sadly a lot of time has been spent jungle bashing to find pitiful outcrops). Nick is thinking of getting everyone together for a play at Markfield sometime so will keep you posted. Also if you have got any good photos that you could scan or we could borrow that would be great.
sharkey 07 Jul 2004
In reply to the sheep:



chipping, blatant hold improvement...

why?

 Dominion 07 Jul 2004
In reply to the sheep:

What sort of photos do you want? Of people climbing, or just of the routes / crags?

PS Just looked up Beacon Hill on http://www.leicesterclimbs.f9.co.uk/BeaconI.htm and see that it says that the keeper shuts the car park promptly at the end of the day.... What sort of time are we talking about? Dusk? 8:30? Ta
 Jono Graham 07 Jul 2004
In reply to Dominion:

You can now get out of the car park at anytime, just not into it. It's got those one-way spike thingies. Of course, there's always the car-mat trick, but i haven't said that!

Haven't been up there for ages. Almost fell off Auto last time - will have to go and do it with a bit more flair!
OP the sheep 07 Jul 2004
In reply to Dominion:
Photos of people climbing would be good.
Also at beacon you can park on the road side as well to avoid not being able to get in and/or paying for the car park
 Dominion 07 Jul 2004
In reply to the sheep and JG:

Ta for that about the car parks.

Will take camera along next time I go, anyway, as I doubt that
http://www.dpmason.demon.co.uk/pictures/Wingnutlaughs-01.jpg
is really what you're looking for
 Reds 07 Jul 2004
In reply to the sheep: Absolute disgrace

I think someone has also had a go at the foothold on the arete to the right (think it's called The Last Straw)
 Barra 07 Jul 2004
In reply to the sheep:

Easy Sheep, I have loads of Pix of Beacon Hill, will email them too Nick as soon as I have chance!

As for the 'Park at the roadside' that's a fair enough thought, but I wouldn't advise it. I and a couple of friends used to park there to avoid paying the £1 parking fee, until we (all three cars, on seperate occasions) got broken into!!!

Worth paying £1 now you can get out at anytime!!!

Luv Barra! xx


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