UKC

does anyone know when the new west midlands guide book is out, i have heard it is out of print.

and does anyone know any decent climbs within the west midlands are.

i climbed alot indoors and now venturin outdoors, the outdoor scene is so much better than indoors, but i still hold to the view that indoors are very good for trainin

In reply to Keefybaby:

West Midlands is a poor place to get into outdoor climbing. Most of the areas only have harder routes, and although Pontesford does have easier routes, they're a bit limited and maybe not so good for someone learning to lead outdoors. Much better to get yourself to North Wales or Staffordshire grit and get leading some of the easier, better protected routes there.

In reply to Keefybaby: go to http://www.westmidlandsrock.co.uk for a couple of topos and info, i dont know if they are releasing a new guide soon best of luck.

In reply to Keefybaby:

Its mostly complete junk. Try the Roaches if you want to learn, then take the advice and head up to North Wales. I reckon Llangollen limestone would be a good place to start - try World's End. can send you info if interested.

Fex.

In reply to Fex Wazner:


They're local crags for local people. We don't need you types around here.



p.s. Does anyone know anything about this "worthwhile" new crag around Malvern?

In reply to Keefybaby: Try the following web site: www.westmidlandsrock.co.yk for the whole area or www.sportsclimbs.co.uk for Llanymynech. The latter is not a bag nor is Nesscliffe.

In reply to Keefybaby: I'd recommend getting out and exploring. Grinshill is a good place to try, top-rope friendly so good to practice your ropework. Pontesford is a gem, but be very careful on the descents as they can be loose. Llanymynach is a superb venue but I wouldn't recommend it to a novice. The places in and around Shrewsbury are cracking places to climb which are only a gnats knicker from most places in the West Midlands, even for an afternoon/evening, and offer a good alternative to Staffordshire grit. If you get hold of a guide then make the most of, and enjoy it.

Some climbing shops and book shops still have the Doug Kerr guide.

Sion

In reply to TobyA:

If you are leading E4 then there is a lot to go at. Malvern is junk too, but if you find anything moderately good, please let me know as I am most definitely a local.

Fex.

In reply to Sion Roberts:

Please, where do you recommend in and around Shrewsbury?

Fex.

In reply to Fex Wazner: In no order of importance:
Pontesford,
Grinshill,
Nesscliffe,
Llanymynach,

I think there are good lines at all of these places with equally good moves. I can't comment on Ippikins, Carreg y Byg, Harmer Hill, or the quarry on the way to Bishops Castle (or the other one by Middletown - not sure about access here either).

Sion

In reply to Sion Roberts:


I've visited both, some years ago now, on warm summers days and enjoyed both. Quiet, pleasent, ok routes - both have picnic potential as well. Not places to go and do loads and loads routes in a day - but a very different experience from the hustle and bustle of busy grit or N. Wales crags.

Fex - do you mean you are local to Malvern?

In reply to Sion Roberts:

I suupose Pontesford would be the best place to start climbing outdoors, but I would have thought that Nesscliffe and Llanymynach would be out of the question for someone just entering the outdoor climbing scene.

Anyways, Ippikins is pretty much junk too, very loose, but there are a couple of decent lines on it, definitely not a day out though.

Not been to the Middleton or Bishop's Castle crags, I will have to explore, thanks for the tip off.

Fex.

In reply to TobyA:

Local-ish, about 30mins.

Fex.

In reply to Fex Wazner:

You're correct, Nesscliffe and Llanymynech have very little in the lower grades and what there is tends to be poor. However, if you're climbing at E1 and above, then they are well worth a visit.
I thought Pontesford was in a nice setting, but very limited. Some pleasant easier stuff there though.

In reply to Fex Wazner: I missed the "Bewdley Massive" bit of your profile. I'm from Stourport originally and am often back there at Christmas and sometimes in the summer. It would be good to know some local climbers as I often don't have anyone to climb with when in the area.

In reply to TobyA:

Sure thing, drop me an email if you are in the area as we are climbing most of the time, who knows, we could attempt the dreaded East buttress of Black Stone.

Fex.

In reply to Fex Wazner: My first ever lead was on Blackstone, somewhere on righthand side about 30 ft to a single ancient homemade peg which we then clipped and lowered off. I think most of my runners fell out, although I doubt anythem would have held anyway in that mud... I also once prussiked the entire height of the crag - I didn't know anything about tying-in short in case the prussiks failed or such. All very stupid in retrospect.

In reply to TobyA:

You would truly fit in as a member of the team. I have done exactly the same myself, I just loved using that rose bush as a hold!. We ended up top roping it in the end! (the horror!) + what a pain the last bit is to Prussick, lost a lot of skin on that one.

Fex.

In reply to TobyA:

>>this "worthwhile" new crag around Malvern?

Yeah, now and again someone 'll post something vague about this being worthwhile (which I find hard to believe).

I just wanna know where it is (being a local) - someone PLEASE tell me, I cannot bear the wait. Personally, I think the rumours are probably a load of. If not, then the crag will be.

In reply to clams:

We have tried the gullet and clocktower quarry area but found nothing really worth while.

I'd love to know too!

Fex.

In reply to TobyA:

That pic looks like the Quarry on Clee Hill, my life that is a tough route.

I have climbed at the Hermitage, but not Southstone, can you remember how to get there?

Cheers,

Fex.

In reply to Fex Wazner:


Its the same place, but for some reason has two names. I'm responsible for a whole series of Gary Gibson-esque crappy space-fillers there, but when they write "Worcestershire Rock" (a bit like Hard Rock and Classic Rock; except for the obvious lack of any classics or hard - in the geological sense - rock), Flight of the Fruit Bat will definitely be in as one of the finest routes in the county.


Lol. Have you climbed on Clee Hill in winter conditions? I've wondered about that myself, but over the last few winters it has never snowed whilst I've been in the UK at Xmas time. I actually did a roped rock climb in the quarry at Clee Hill. It must of been complete cack as I didn't even try to record it anywhere, and I'm not averse to recording shite, as anyone who has looked at the Southstone section of the West Midlands guide would know!

In reply to TobyA:

So you are the one responsible for those desperate routes! I've done a few routes on there in the rain with torch light using only spiders legs for protection. Topping out involves eating worms and then been scared stiff by tales of Witchcraft as you jump the crevass like crack - what a classic crag!

Fex.

In reply to Fex Wazner:
I've done a few routes on there in the rain with torch light using only spiders legs for protection. Topping out involves eating worms and then been scared stiff by tales of Witchcraft as you jump the crevass like crack - what a classic crag!

A perfect description of the Southstone experience - except you forgot to mention the holds that tend to snap off if you pull to hard and massive holes that would be great holds if you weren't too scared to put most of your arm into them as you are not quite sure what is living at the bottom.

In reply to TobyA:

Spooky place. Went there self-belaying once, did a few routes, and a nice pumpy traverse round the back, then got outta there feeling spooked.

The rock was caked in a dark slimy substance, I could only assume was blood from the sacrificial alter.

In reply to clams:

We had a look around the caves out the back, sent my friend in with a headtorch to see a load of bats nearly take his head off - he exclaimed - what the f##k are they?

He had never seen a bat in the flesh before.

Drop us an email if you go there again, I will make sure the blood is a bit fresher!

Fex.

there is a large quarry near eastnor which looks like it may well have been it. Large slabs (about 70ft) above a pool, it looks like it has recently had new fencing and signs put around it, maybe this was it but i doubt if access is allowed at all