UKC

Bang de sang (9a) repeated

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 UKC News 03 Apr 2004
Alessandro 'Jolly' Lamberti has repeated Fred Nicole's 1993 route Bain de Sang, 9a, at Saint Loup. This route has now had more ascents than any other 9a in the world.

UKC News - http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/
sharkey 03 Apr 2004
In reply to UKC News:

> This route has now had more ascents than any other 9a in the world.

i don't get that - does that mean that it's easy for 9a (as if 9a is easy), or that it's not actually 9a?

grades are confusing *scratches head*

 tobyfk 03 Apr 2004
In reply to sharkey:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> [...]
>
> i don't get that - does that mean that it's easy for 9a (as if 9a is easy), or that it's not actually 9a?

Some possible explanations:

- it's been around longer than most 9a's
- it's quite famous
- it's a bouldery, short route rather than a stamina plod (similarly Action Direct and The Fly have now had quite a few repeats)
In reply to tobyfk:
> - it's a bouldery, short route rather than a stamina plod (similarly Action Direct and The Fly have now had quite a few repeats)

According to 8a.nu it is 25m with the crux at the top, so not that short, although the first 24m could be VDiff but I doubt it. Overall though I agree with you about why it has had so many repeats. What I couldn't find out when writing the news report was how many repeats. Nobody else on the news circuits seems to know either.

Alan
Peter Walker 03 Apr 2004
In reply to Alan James, ROCKFAX: Off the top of my head:

Fred Nicole
Francois Nicole
Fred Rouhling
Cedric Bersandi
David Houhl
Josune Bereciartu
Iker Pou

.... the last of whom was allegedly quoted as saying it was a grade easier than Action Directe when he did it. Hmmmm.
 Mooncat 03 Apr 2004
In reply to Peter Walker:

From what I recall from the 1st ascent, it's not as steep as a lot of the 9's merely vertical with very very small holds.
New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...