Daniel Woods, Paul Robinson and Jimmy Webb paid a quick visit to sandstone bouldering area at the Horseshoe Canyon Ranch in Arkansas, USA, resulting in some newsworthy ascents.
The goal of the trip was to try and repeat Chris Sharma's ~12m roof boulder Witness the fitness, ~8C. The problem, which...
Then, Paul made the first ascent of The new wood grain grippin' after a significant break at the crux. Now, the problem, which used to be ~8B+ is... still ~8B+, but hard for the grade.
Where does that say the name changed? He made the first ascent of the problem after a hold had broken. The "first post-holdbreak ascent" if you will. It's still got the same name, it's just now got a revised estimate of its grade...
The wording in the article is confusing, but 'wood grain grippin' is a different problem entirely where they also broke holds.
'Wood grain grippin' was originally 8B+ and remains so (just a bit more nails than it used to be) and 'Witness the fitness' was and still is 8C but with very different beta.
I think it would be better to call it the first repeat of Wood Grain Grippin' since a hold broke, rather than a first ascent of The New Wood Grain Grippin'.
Press Release Alpkit and Outside Bank Holiday Hathersage Tent Show 4-5th May
Fri Night Vid Finding Focus - Life Behind The Lens of a Climbing Photographer
This week's Friday Night Video is a portrait of a prolific climbing photographer from Wedge Climbing. Sam Pratt is well known in both the outdoor and competition scene but if you haven't heard of him, you've likely seen...