UKC

NEWS: INTERVIEW: Pete Whittaker Climbs Baron Greenback Direct

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 UKC News 07 Apr 2014
Pete Whittaker on Baron Greenback at Wimberry, 3 kbPete Whittaker has added a hard direct start to his Wimberry super route Baron Greenback. Pete climbed the FA of Baron last May, climbing in from the left to gain the bolts. The new start adds a highball 7C start to get to the bolts with no option to down-climb for a rest as before...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68840
 Franco Cookson 09 Apr 2014
In reply to UKC News:

What a legend.
 newhey 10 Apr 2014
In reply to UKC News:

I saw the chalk marks a couple of days ago and wondered who had been up there.
 Oliver Hill 11 Apr 2014
In reply to UKC News:

When are bolts on gritstone ethically OK?
 galpinos 11 Apr 2014
In reply to Oliver Hill:

When they were placed donkey's years ago on an aid ascent.

This ethics thing is easy.
 1poundSOCKS 11 Apr 2014
In reply to galpinos: It does say in the 'Over the Moors' guidebook, that pegs can be placed in quarried gritstone as a last resort. As far as I know, Wimberry isn't quarried, and I know a peg isn't a bolt, but I'm surprised they're still tolerated ethically. God knows what 'last resort' means!

 climbwhenready 11 Apr 2014
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

> It does say in the 'Over the Moors' guidebook, that pegs can be placed in quarried gritstone as a last resort. As far as I know, Wimberry isn't quarried, and I know a peg isn't a bolt, but I'm surprised they're still tolerated ethically. God knows what 'last resort' means!

"Last resort" means, having taken personal responsibility for your safety on a crag, and weighed up the risks of the situation you're in, you make an assessment that you are DEFINITELY about to die unless you put in a peg, and would rather take the HIGHLY LIKELY chance of dying at the hands of hoards of offended climbers when they found out what you've done.
 1poundSOCKS 11 Apr 2014
In reply to climbwhenready: Sounds like a complex way of saying 'never use pegs', perhaps written by a guilt stricken guidebook writer who has used them before.

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