"Well I hadn't been trad climbing for a while, but I wanted to get some routes done this bank holiday. I was climbing with my girlfriend and she hadn't really done any climbing outside before, so the first day I did CockBlock (E5) and the next day I did Satsuma Wrestler (E6), then the following day I did Over The Beach (E7) and the day after that I did Gravediggers (E8 - ground-up) and yesterday I did The Hollow Man E7/8 and Sex & Religion E7."
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: How did he get on with Satsuma wrestler. That looks like a brilliant route. Is it safe? Is it independent completely from Nectarine Run?
In reply to SI A: Surely it just shifts the boundary up a notch. We have no way of knowing how far it can be shifted up, so headpointing remains ethical enough for the really fiendish stuff.
When he says in his report it was ground-up it sounds like it took at least 2 attempts and therefore was not strictly onsight, rather worked ground-up?
> (In reply to SI A)
>
> When he says in his report it was ground-up it sounds like it took at least 2 attempts and therefore was not strictly onsight, rather worked ground-up?
top roping the harder routes was always "ok" as they were never led groundup on sight. This remarkable weekend of climbing has really put a stop to that excuse.
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: great effort there by neil ! very impressive indeed, a great talent ! thought me and ioan had a good w/knd ! ioan climbed `hall of warriors E5 6a` - `womb bits`E5 6b - 1st pitch of MSND soft E5 6a he thought, and `purr spire direct E6 6b` i did `great wall` E4 6a and `true grip` E5 6a.
In reply to Craig Smith: I'm not entirely sure about that. I know Nick Bullock has replaced some pegs on North Stack - but I'm not sure which. I'll try to find out.
Fri Night Vid Finding Focus - Life Behind The Lens of a Climbing Photographer
This week's Friday Night Video is a portrait of a prolific climbing photographer from Wedge Climbing. Sam Pratt is well known in both the outdoor and competition scene but if you haven't heard of him, you've likely seen...