UKC

NEWS: New Line on Gasherbrum I SW Face by Holeček and Hàk

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 UKC News 18 Aug 2017
Czech mountaineer Marek 'Mara' Hole?ek and his climbing partner Zden?k Hàk have established a significant new line on the south-west Face of Gasherbrum I (8080m), in Pakistan's Karakoram range. The pair took just 8 days to complete the 3000m technical line in alpine-style, graded ED+ (M7, WI5+) 70° and named Satisfaction. Remarkably, this was 43 year old Marek's 5th attempt at the route, marking the end of a list of attempts peppered with failures, serious frostbite and tragedy.

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 leon 1 18 Aug 2017
In reply to UKC News:
Fu** me that looks to be a really impressive ascent. Huge respect to those guys.
Coming after the one by Valery Babanov and Viktor Afanasiev a couple of weeks ago it looks like G1 is this years new Mt Blanc

Wonder if the Mayor of St Gervais would have allowed them ?
Post edited at 14:20
 Lil_Pete 18 Aug 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Wow! Simply wow
 Kemics 18 Aug 2017
In reply to UKC News:

those bivis look unbelievably shit, i cant imagine staying there for a single night let alone a week!
 leon 1 18 Aug 2017
In reply to leon 1: What shite I talk sometimes. Before Damo corrects me my post should have read ....
Coming after the one by Valery Babanov and Viktor Afanasiev a couple of years ago it looks like G1 is the new Mt Blanc

Blame the drugs and my inability to tell the difference between 10 days and 10 years
 Mr. Lee 18 Aug 2017
In reply to UKC News:

The grading seems odd to me. Anything with pitches of M7 and WI5+ I'd be expecting to have an overall grade of about ED3.
5
Deadeye 18 Aug 2017
In reply to Mr. Lee:
> The grading seems odd to me. Anything with pitches of M7 and WI5+ I'd be expecting to have an overall grade of about ED3.

This is what I love about UKC.

Stunning ascent requiring reserves of strength and determination unimaginable to almost everyone, but TD climbers like me can still sit at our computers and query the grades.
 alx 18 Aug 2017

Gosh! Daft Punk have let themselves go a bit.


:-D
 GeneralFifi 19 Aug 2017
In reply to Mr. Lee:

I think the grading of ED+ was meant as not wanting to give a number after the ED as it must be really hard to judge a grade for such a massive and committing route. He gave pitch grades, as it is easier to grade a shorter section.
 natetan 20 Aug 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Sounds like a horrific amount of suffering. Hats off!
 Chris Shorter 21 Aug 2017
In reply to UKC News:

> Hàk

NIT-PICKER ALERT!!!

As a long-term struggling student of the Czech language, I noticed that the accent on the "a" is pointing in the wrong direction.

Here's the good man's page on the Czech mountain guides' website.

http://www.horskyvudce.com/products/hak-zdenek/

Chris
 Jimbo C 21 Aug 2017
In reply to UKC News:

To climb something that steep and that dangerous, and at that altitude for so many days must be one of the most outstanding ascents ever completed. Respect.
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