UKC

NEWS: Pembroke Easter Weekend Round-Up

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 UKC News 30 Apr 2014
Dave Birkett on the final moves of Daddy Cool, E8 6b, Carreg-y-Barcud, 4 kbThe Easter Bank Holiday Weekend saw some great weather and some great ascents.

These included 3 E7 onsights in a day for James McHaffie, and a new E8 at Greenham Common from Dave Pickford...



Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68884
 Tyler 30 Apr 2014
In reply to UKC News:

> On the same day, Dave Pickford climbed a new route at Greenham Common, calling it Robot Heart, and grading it E8 6c. Dave pre-practised the cruxes on a Gri-Gri and checked out the gear placements before leading the route.

Didn't Range West used to have a strict ground up ethic? I'm pretty certain the Steve Mayers' E7s were done like that. Goes to show what an under rated legend he was
 John2 30 Apr 2014
In reply to Tyler:

I find it hard to criticise an ascent not involving fixed gear for which the tactics employed were reported truthfully.
 Tyler 30 Apr 2014
In reply to John2:

Not a criticism just curious as I seem to remember a lot was made of the GU ethic when Range West was first opened . Like you say fixed gear is the big concern for sea cliffs as it has lasting effects/implications beyond the first ascent
 John2 30 Apr 2014
In reply to Tyler:

You're correct in what you say. For a long time Ian Vickers' E8 Broughton Power was thought to be the hardest ground-up FA ever made.
 simes303 30 Apr 2014
In reply to UKC News:

The Birkett picture makes him look like he's crawling along astroturf.
 The Pylon King 30 Apr 2014
In reply to UKC News:

I abseiled down to have a look at a potential new VS/HVS at Bulliber but just wasn't on form so left it until later in the year.

I onsighted several Hard Severes though (all without side runners).

And took some nice pics.
 Michael Gordon 30 Apr 2014
In reply to The Pylon King:

Good effort!
 Ramon Marin 02 May 2014
In reply to The Pylon King:

I don't your HVS efforts would make it into UKC

Top effort Pickford, Caff & co, healthy trad scenes to get psyched
 The Ivanator 02 May 2014
In reply to The Pylon King:

Sounds like fun. Did one of your Pembroke routes the week before Easter (Mark of the Arch) - one of the best Severes I have ever done, brilliant find.
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