In reply to Pete Pozman:
> Instead of chalk, why not a little bag of grease. No need for any new rules or new route design. Give it some thought.
I've given it a moment's thought and concluded that nobody would take a dip and just climb with sweaty hands.
I genuinely think that slow climbing would make a good event if you had a hardish route (maybe 8b or something at elite level) and the idea would be to climb it as slowly as possible without actually pumping out and falling off before reaching the top.
The route would obviously have to be very sustained with only the most marginal of shake outs to test the recovery powers of the very best. Maybe you get to climb the route once without falling off first so that you know where you might be able to pause and get something back. There would be great skill in judging things just right. It would make great spectator sport. I think shaking out is a much underestimated skill and it always really annoys me when they silly speed it up in videos. This would put it centre stage.