UKC

Steph Davis has made the first female ascent and third ascent of Concepcion (ungraded, 220') in Day Canyon, near Moab, Utah.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=04&year=2008#n43912

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Some high-quality whining in the Alpinist news page comments section. Americans really are much funnier (whether intended or unintended) online than Brits.

Talking of which, isn't it time for a UKC news item on the approaching-2000-posts Half Dome South Face thread at SuperTopo?

In reply to tobyfk:



You reckon Toby... you mean that one about the rap-bolting clean-climbing ethical queen, Doug Robinson, the one who sells new routes to the highest bidder.

He is a hero of mine by the way, one of the original Eastern Sierra vagabonds.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=566859

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:



More than just DR though ... it's got Scott Cosgrove, John Bachar, Randy Leavitt ... one first ascentionist biten by a rattle snake, the other one almost laid low by antibiotic-resistant staph ... the thread analysed in a Rock and Ice editorial ... the Rock and Ice editorial then analysed in the thread. Epic stuff.

In reply to tobyfk:


"come on guys. don't hate because she's beautiful. hate her because she's a successful, shameless self-promoter with lots a free clothes and gear."

That's both very intentional and very funny.

I like her quote:

"So I just started yelling, and somehow flew back into the rock, doing move after move at maximum exhaustion, almost in a warrior trance state."

I knew there must be a better way of saying "I was totally knackered, but I got really angry and didn't let go!" Sounds like me on my few E1 ticks.

In reply to TobyA:



Yes that phrase caused quite a flicker on my pretention detector too ...

In reply to tobyfk:

Yup, there is no way someone like Mick Fowler could utter a sentence like that. I reckon there could be mileage in a "Pseuds' Corner" thread...

In reply to Eric Herring:

Wonder why it is still called "unrated" when Alex Honnold said it was 13b?

In reply to therighttoarmbeers:

He did? Where?

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: From http://www.momentumvm.com/
"Alex Honnold, who last summer soloed The Rostrum and Astroman in a day, recently repeated one of Dean Potter's mythical crack climbs, Conception, with alarming speed. After aiding the route to warm up, he tried to pinkpoint it once, then returned on a second day to redpoint the route -- in the rain. As for the difficulty of Conception, Alex declined to offer up a new grade."

In reply to TimS:

Thanks Tim.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Rock and Ice issue 169, June 2008, page 26:

"...Honnold fired the second ascent of Concepcion, an obscure fissure in Day Canyon that Dean Potter established in 2003 and called "the hardest crack in the desert". As a result of the superlative, it ws called 13d in magazines.

"I listed it on my 8a.nu scorecard as 5.13b" says Honnold. "It's cool,but it's not the hardest route in the desert." "

In reply to therighttoarmbeersisathome:

And here is (hopefully) his scorecard link:

http://8a.nu/(ugfvzb450olzjq55l451stre)/Index.aspx

In reply to therighttoarmbeersisathome:

Cheers therighttoarmbeersisathome.

In reply to therighttoarmbeersisathome: Nice one I knew I'd read that somewhere but couldn't remember where it was - Mr Potter seems to have a habit of calling things 'hardest'... http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/potterszengarden/ this was also repeated recently without much fanfare.

In reply to TimS:

Who was Zen Garden repeated by? Did they offer up a grade? Any links to info would be much appreciated...

In reply to Tom Randall - Lattice Training: A guy called Matt Segal from Boulder, as far as I can tell he didn't offer a grade - there was a video on Momentumvm.com but it may have just been in the premium section, I think the same guy also put up a cool looking problem on edges on the same roof. Do you have plans to check out some foreign roof cracks to see if yours is harder?!