UKC

James Pearson is currently back in the UK and recently made an ascent of The Quarryman E8 7a at Twll Mawr. The four-pitch route - first climbed by Johnny Dawes - breaks down into an E6, E5, the famous '8a' groove pitch and a 7c+ slab to finish.


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In reply to UKC News:

Top effort.

Looks like Nick Bullock got Strawberries yesterday too.

In reply to UKC News:

Nice one. Great photos too.

In reply to UKC News:

So exactly how many ascents for this route, and I don't mean part climbed?

In reply to UKC News:
The Quarry is in Dinorwig not Llanberis..

In reply to UKC News:

Please can this be the last time that the headline is given as "Route X FOR Climber Y"?
It makes it sound like they're being given something. The reality is that they have done a thing. Completely different actions.

Route X (in Z style) by Climber Y
Climber Y climbs/does Route X (in Z style)
Both of these would make more sense.

I can't put my finger on why it grates but I flinch whenever I see it.

In reply to jezb1:

Source? Would love to read a bit more about that.

In reply to Will Hunt:

Same with

"xxx is no stranger to......"

In reply to Will Hunt:

It grates because it's grammatically incorrect. It's good to see you care about it, Will. Too many folk don't. Can' t see why you got several dislikes for your comment. I'm with you on that one.

In reply to Will Hunt: I agree with you, it's extremely poor grammar and makes no real sense. Maybe that's not so important to whoever is writing these pieces.

In reply to Frank the Husky:


To whomsoever, surely?

In reply to climberchristy:


Well I don't.

In reply to joe.wahab:


Mountain Equipments Instagram, I'm sure more info will follow.

In reply to Will Hunt:


Horrible isn't it? Glad it's not just me.

In reply to UKC News:
Top ascent by James and let's remember the innovative Johnny Dawes who did the first ascent 30 years ago!!!

In reply to Christheclimber:

Less polish 30 yrs ago!
gets coat...

No doubt an effort.

In reply to UKC News:

Brilliant. Great news to hear of an ascent of a fantastic route.
Yet here we get idiots going on about grammar.

'Route x' is a proper noun. Just like 'Kendal mint cake for James' is grammatically correct.
Even if you disagree, English has always been evolving.

youtube.com/watch?v=Ovi7uQbtKas&

In reply to UKC News:

I think it's important to note that this is one of very few (IIRC?) ascents of the quarryman that climbed all pitches in a single day.

In reply to Sean Kelly:
As far as I'm aware, until now only Steve McClure has done it 'properly' - all pitches in order in one day, and not doing any funny business with extenders. Myself and Robbie Phillips did the whole thing last year in slightly less good style, as we extended a couple of the bolts on the 'trad' sections to make it a bit less scary.

To be honest, I'm not sure many people have really bothered trying, although I think Dan Mcmanus has come close (actually it wouldn't surprise me at all if he had gone back and done it without telling anyone!).

In reply to Robert Durran: Seems to really divide opinion too if you look at your, Frank's and Will's likes/dislikes. I surprised, it's just one of those things they've picked up from sports journos.

In reply to Mike Stretford:

Quite. Personally I would much prefer to see 'James Pearson sends The Quarryman E8 7a ' for instance...

In reply to Removed User:


Please god no. What's wrong with 'climbs'?

In reply to AymanC:

Caring about something, whether it be grammar or anything else, doesn't make people 'idiots'.

Like you, I think it's a great ascent of a great route. I was simply supporting Will who disliked the grammar.

I also agree that language is constantly evolving.

As for Route X being a proper noun... you're right, but that's irrelevant: it does not make the grammar in the headline correct. Will was questioning the use of the preposition 'for'.

In reply to UKC News:

Hold the front page! Route first climbed in the mid 1980's receieves another ascent. Despite all the talk of 'superheroes' and 'rock gods' it looks as though the current generation's best climbers can repeat routes from 30 years ago.

In reply to RyanOsborne:


Had a sense of humour bypass, have we?

In reply to lostcat:

Oh sorry, now I get it. 'Sends'... HAHAHAHAHA... That's *hilarious*

In reply to Fruit:

Could somebody in the 80's have done echo wall or the longhope route direct and free?

In reply to Removed User:


Where's he sending it to? That is the most bollocks word in the whole of climbing history!!!

In reply to Removed User:


God no, what's wrong with crushing or smashing it?

In reply to Mike Stretford:


Though I assume some of those dislikes are for "hijacking" the thread rather than actually not disliking the "X for Y" thing.


I wonder whether it originates from the literal translation of a common foreign language usage (is Bjorn Pohl to blame - "Euroclipup 9a+ for Eurowad"?). Nathalie, the culprit here, is a linguist, so maybe she could enlighten us.

In reply to Red Rover:

does anyone care?

In reply to UKC News:

Good effort from James!

Looks like mad climbing!

In reply to Robert Durran:

My favourite was Sharma 'owning' Jumbo Love.

In reply to Robert Durran:
It's an interesting discussion for sure! As a fellow grammar pedant I do take these things into consideration. I can't say I've ever thought too deeply about this particular case, but it is a very common 'shortening' technique in news headlines, even though if you stop and think it does sound a bit odd!

The way I read it is along the lines of an achievement for someone: "Gold Medal for Shauna Coxsey," or in this case clumsily substitute the proper noun - the route name - with "Hard Route Ticked." It sounds odd because the medal is something tangible, whereas the route isn't really, other than a UKC logbook tick perhaps? I think what goes through my head is 'X route "in the bag" for Y' and I write it so much it has probably become a bit 'meaningless.'

Anyway, that's enough semantics for a Saturday evening!

In reply to Natalie Berry - UKC:


Just for the love of God don't start using clickbait style headlines along the lines of:

This climber hiked to the bottom of a blank slab. What happened next changed everything

Stuff like that makes me want to go on a murder spree.

In reply to Natalie Berry - UKC:

Exactly - medals and cake are actually given to people, so 'for' is correct. Routes aren't given to people. The reason it's quite so unpleasant (well, apart from the fact it makes the whole thing sound like internet porn) is that it's bound up with the idea of success conveying some sort of ownership. Like mountaineers 'conquering' Mount Snowdon.

Nice day out for JP.

jcm

In reply to UKC News:

Well done James.











Should I have used a comma?

Well done, James.

In reply to David Alcock:

Yes, otherwise we'd need to know why you're thinking of eating him. (And why you'd missed the hyphen.)

In reply to UKC News:

Quarryman (success) for JP.

I usually get irked by such things but not in this case.

In reply to john arran:

Success on Quarryman for James Pearson

In reply to Wood for Trees:

The 'success' bit is kind of implied by the fact there's a news article

In reply to Michael Gordon:


They should do articles about all my failures:

'BB fails on indoor V6 - claims 'it's stupid and you wouldn't get anything like that outdoors anyway'. Goes for a coffee and cake in the cafe in a huff. Read More...'

In reply to bouldery bits:

V64BB

In reply to john arran:

Or even "V64BB......Not. You'll be amazed by what he did next."