UKC

Onsight, no pre-practice, ground-up, not even any cleaning or abseil pre-inspection, hard climbing, poor gear, miles from anywhere with no chance of rescue if anything goes wrong, not knowing if there is gear or even holds ahead and throw in poor belays where the second or leader must not fall. Sounds like real adventure climbing in the extreme - in fact Hard Extremely Severe! A number, that some obsess about, wouldn't do the experience justice.

This is what Niall McNair and Dan McManus experienced on the first ascent of Redemption Ark on a huge unclimbed cliff on the island of Pabbay in the Outer Hebrides last week

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Sounds tremendous,great style and good effort.

Mick,

It is also of note that, the first week in June saw another O/S, ground up hard ascent on Pabbay. Nic Sellers and Tommy Briggs climbed Crash Course - E6 6b,6a,5 something on the right hand side of the Great Arch....another "bon effort".

Tom has some photo's on his profile.

In reply to richard kirby:

I sent this description to Steve Crowe today:

Crash Course E6 6b, 6a, 5a

Follows the leftmost feasible corner in the right hand side of the Great Arch. Pitch 1. (35m) Powerful entry into the corner with hard 6b moves and not perfect gear (Cams and green/yellow? Alien in flared slot). Easier up the corner, then step right to place cam in corner to the right, step back left and climb wall and layback to roof. Belay on large cams. Pitch 2. (10m) Hard 6a. Crosses the Arch via a hanging corner. Boulder problem to spike and rockover onto slab/corner. Pull up and across hanging shelf to sit-down belay in niche. Pitch 3. (30m) 5a. Pull into bottom of large crack/chimney corner and follow to top.

Climbed ground up with no falls 29th May I think (Sellers pitches 1 and 3). Quite a lot of loose rock came off both pitches. Also, it was a bit damp, so maybe one to do later in the day when that area of crag gets some sun?

I also did the rightmost feasible corner in the black rock as a 'warm up' at E2 5b (35m).

BTW - despite what the HotAches write up says, you can now get mobile phone coverage with Orange from the summit of Pabbay.

In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:


.....but, according to Steve, one needs to adopt a less conventional head posture to ensure best signal.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Good effort by the boys on another faultless ascent done to the highest standards. Keep the flag flying!

In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:

Addendum added: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/

In reply to richard kirby:

The only signal I got was on Macphees Hill on Mingulay. It was unreliable but did work! I would expect that you could get a signal from a summit on Pabbay but I could'nt confirm that.

Steve

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

This is the normal approach for the majority of new routes on the South Barra Islands, But usually with good protection!

Occasional abseil inspection happens but will, however usually the routes are so steep that inspection means look but don't touch!

I only managed half a new route this year! When Karin and I reclimbed What. No Puffin? on the Pink Wall with a new, better and independent finish.


What! More Puffin 80m E6 6b,5a ***
The grooved arête on the right edge of the wall (right of The Ancient Mariners). The initial arête has a crack on boths sides. Start by climbing either crack to gain the ledge, then move up to the Y-shaped crack. Move up then left to finger lock powerfully through a steep bulge (just right of The Ancient Mariners) and gain a good break and awkward kneebar rest. Tip toe rightwards on good crimps to regain the arête and move up steeply to a huge “Thank God” flake. Teeter right to reach easy ground and a good belay (as for The Guga) in a superbly exposed position on the very edge.
FA Steve Crowe and Karin Magog 9 June 2007 Inspected from Ancient Mariners and whilst abbing in the next day however I did not abseil down the line of the route so it was a "look don't touch" inspection!

Niall and Dan's route sounds scary but Dan lives on the LLynn Peninsular so no doubt it was just like climbing at home for him?

In reply to Steve Crowe:

another addendum Steve...

is their an online depsitory of information somewhere?

mick

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

The main site to report new routes is the SMC

http://www.smc.org.uk/Publications/Publications.php

also see

http://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Main_Page

In reply to Steve Crowe:

pic of Steve on his new route here...
http://www.malhamba.com/photos/added/281#pageHeader