UKC

I have been climbing for a long time now and now that I am settled into a long career I am able to organise my time better. As a result I am climbing indoors more often in preparation for when I do find a climbing partner and climb outdoors. However, I would like to begin to build this into some structured training. 

What exercises would you recommend for someone ready to begin training?

What training equipment do I have;

- Lattice quad block

- Lattice mini bar

- Lattice roller bar

- Beastmaker 1000 (however I have not got this fixed up on the wall as I live in rented accommodation and unsure where and if I can put this up)

I have conducted some 7:3 pinch and hold training as well as regular climbing, running and stretching, is there anything else anyone recommends?

Noone can properly advise as you provide no context whatsoever.

I assume you are doing routes harder than those in your logbook? How often do you climb indoors , outdoors, what do you do when you're there.

I'd recommend regular core and yoga tho'

Maybe consider one of the coaching companies out there?

OR

do some reading, self coached climber etc?

But for either of those to work you need to assess where you are? AND where do you want to go?

trad?boulder?sport?winter?

obviously there is plenty of cross over but sport fitness and boulder fitness are definitely distinct.

If i had the money i'd start with a lattice assessment as a base line, set realistic time based goals to work towards and then look at what would get me from A to B.

But also you can never have enough core, flexibilty or general conditioning 

Frankly, at your current logbook level you don’t need to do anything beyond going to an indoor wall three times a week and climbing as hard as you can.

If you are dead set on adding more “structure” then I’d blend the following key sessions into two 6 week plans. Block 1 focused more on the strength side of things and block 2 focused more on the endurance/power endurance side of things.

1. Repeaters on the Beastmaker ( see door fame no hole fixing methods).

2. Bouldering session.

3. 4x4 routes.

4. Foot-on campus boarding.

5. Indoor route repointing.

If your logbook is representative, I suspect that what's holding you back is just mileage outdoors.

When I left university, I was climbing S/HS because I went climbing about once a month.  As soon as I joined a club and went out once or twice midweek and every other weekend, my standard jumped up to E1 in a few years.

So I'd concentrate on finding regular partners, rather than structured training.  If you don't have the underlying core strength, you'll just end up collecting injuries.

I've found the bouldering wall and yoga to be most helpful.

I would echo what the other have said. If what you've logged is the what you've done to date, then mileage is going to be king. At the risk of generalising, at that grade, it really isn't physical ability as much as it is technique, technical understanding of gear (the deep and thorough kind that you only get first hand) and a good head. That needs mileage. If you want to get onto introducing more structured training, hard bouldering will go a long way to building up some of the areas mentioned. Finger boarding is great too, but beware, I can tell you from first hand experience that pulling on a fingerboard tis not pulling on a wall.

Just to add what others have said, I don't think there's any need to do specific training at your current level. What I'd say is more important is to do lots of mileage (indoors and out) to both build skill levels and future-proof your body for when you start training in the future.

If you dive head first into a high-load training plan without a solid base you run a very high risk of getting injured. 

The only structured exercises I'd be tempted to do are flexibility/mobility work and some strength and conditioning of your antagonists, again to help prevent injuries.