UKC

Ok so I've been trying to climb Ocean Boulevard (E3 5b) over the last few weeks. Last go was Friday and now 3days later I'm still not recovered.how many ascents will be required for me to be strong enough to recover in the usual day or two? It's really getting in the way of my bouldering! 

If you can do all the moves, you are strong enough. This sounds as though your endurance needs to be improved by doing some lower intensity, higher duration training.

More strength will help as each move / sequence becomes easier and less endurance is required. However, strength takes longer to improve than endurance.

Doing lots of slightly easier routes over the next 2 to 3 weeks would help your endurance.

CB.

Yeh it's a bit of a trek getting over to Swanage so I'm focusing on route starters on the 15 and 30 degree system board at the gym.  It's been suggested elsewhere  that I just try and stay on the 15degree system board for as long as possible aiming at 45 mins. 

Unfortunately Swanage doesn't really have many venues where lots of easier routes can be done in a day. It's a big faff just getting to the start of the route. 

I take your point tho and will definitely focus on endurance. 

Staying on a 15 degree board for longer and longer periods will definitely help. Make sure you are resting long enough between reps.

Ocean Boulevard is a burly route for the grade. Doing some power endurance training, followed by lower intensity endurance training would probably help. That can all be done on a bouldering wall and circuit board without the need for any belayers.

The free Lattice Crimpd app has really good routines with good explanations of what they are working to improve. There is also a very good article written by Alex Barrows found here: https://www.trainingbeta.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/1.-Alex-Barrows-Tra...

Good luck on Ocean Boulevard.

CB.

My experience with the type of aerobic capacity training that will probably help is that it is effective at a considerably lower level than you might expect, ie you don’t need to be getting super pumped. 

As well as the good advice above, when on the circuit board try to learn to shake out and rest /recover on good holds. Being fairly pumped but knowing you can shake out on a jug and recover will help no end on routes like ocean boulevard 👍