UKC

Evening all, busy weekend for me. Will try to get the stats up this evening, but it might end up being tomorrow morning.

In reply to Ross Barker:

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week’s thread:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_week_859-7634...

Hey everyone, been a bit sweaty this week, hasn't it? Hope you've been able to keep cool where possible.

Tyler: Hope the continent is providing the goods, looking forward to hearing a trip report. Excellent work at The Diamond, always good to sort out unfinished business. I don't have any wisdom on weight management, but you've got some pretty credible sources so you should be in good hands there.

Ian Parnell: Good week for bouldering. Not firing properly on the board is just one of those things, not surprising as you'd had a session at The P the day before. Lovely work at the Churnet, and no shame in not topping out on those more esoteric lines, they are very infrequently climbed and it can be a pain to properly scrub the topout on everything if you're planning on climbing a bunch of boulders in a session. I've found some of the less repeated 6s to be pretty fingery indeed, so I'll sympathise with you there! Sorry to hear about your youngest having a crisis, hopefully that works out and they can find some stability and direction - but don't be distraught if it doesn't happen quickly, it can be a difficult position to be in with lots of choice, lots of changes, lots of people weighing in with differing opinions, etc.

Derek Furze: Nice job hitting the August route target! Some solid days of climbing in, which can't be bad if you were juggling childminding and caravan chopping. Would you go back to lead Olympus Trip after that TR flash? Sounds bold, but if you can get it wired then it could be a good goal (unless it's too dangerous, then TR is fine to be fair!)

Randy: Good point on the muscle overlap of one armers and pushups, I hadn't considered that. Sorry to hear you weren't feeling as strong as you'd like, but you've shown great discipline in cutting sessions short when you might be risking injury, and just generally putting in some good thoughtful training hours. Which, like you say, may be causing insufficient recovery - have you dialled things down a little this week?

mattrm: Sorry to see the lurgy has you in it's clutches, but that running plan sounds well hashed out and should be a good progression. Hope this week you've been able to ease back into it without the cold knocking you back too much!

SteveJC94: Not much to say really, keeping active on the bike and rehabbing the finger seems pretty textbook. Nice work. Any timeline for when the finger can start taking some load, or just feeling it out and proceeding with caution?

Somerset swede basher: Condolences that things have dried out now summer is over bigger condolences for the car drama though! Sounds like you sorted it quickly and had an action packed weekend as a result. Earth Quarry is limestone, in't it?! In the winter?! Sacrilege!

Steve Claw: This week has indeed not been primo micro crimp conditions. Solid return from holiday with cleaning and general crag maintenance, I look forward to seeing what shady stuff you've been up to this week (in Lundy?)

Tom Green: Short Lundy hit! Squeezing out over half a dozen routes in that time is impressive work, and I don't even want to think about the miles covered! Perhaps the slow trail run was being knackered after all the travel?! I'm doing some miles this month as well but it pales in comparison...

inglesp: Having that 7a in two halves is a great start to your goal, keep it up! Good to see your training is getting structure as well, consistency is key. Does the max hang protocol suggest 85% BW, or 85% of your one rep max?

Liam P: Jealous of having a garage training area, glad the move is progressing well. Not sure if I've missed something, but what's up with the knackered leg?

Ally Smith: Shame about the pinky, but it seems you've managed to work a lot of training around it. Good to see some specific goal oriented training with the RA pocket mimic. Controlled instead of tweaky is the ideal feeling!

the sheep: A decent week despite seeming that it was quite busy with general life stuff. The upcoming season sounds even busier! At least you can (and have) made a plan to work alongside it all. Hopefully it works well!

AlanLittle: That highland trip sounds mega! Definitely getting some good miles in and extra kudos doing it all via pubic transport. I've found inflatable pillows quite uncomfortable before, am I doing it wrong or is it just a marmite thing?

AJM: Indeed, Crab Party is a bit sketchier than it used to be (and it wasn't exactly S0 to begin with), any chance of getting a car jack down at low tide to move it away? Glad you were able to get another day out of the spring tides though. Now with kids back at school are you thinking of getting into some sort of training plan, or just trying to enjoy the last of the summer?

biscuit: Good to see you taking controlling the shoulder issue. Wish I could say the same for me! Some good training this week unfortunately curtailed by the lurgy, hopefully it doesn't linger and you can do your testing and training planning unencumbered.

Small Step: Sounds like you had a few good wall sessions there, well done. Off the wall supplemental work is there as well which is great to see! Are you following a particular protocol with the hangboard, with any goals in mind?

In reply to Ross Barker:

Weight - 12st 4lbs

STG - 15k a week by mid-September

MTG - 10k 1 hour

LTG - 30 mile ultra (July 24) and 86 mile (Sept 24)

M - 5k run

T - Rest

W - 10k run, 500m asc, Pen-y-Fal

T - S - Rest

Weekly mileage - 15k

The dive was amazing, well worth the cold.  Saw crabs, little fishes, a lobster and dived through a wreck.  All with an instructor and didn't go deeper than 4m.  But it was great.  Very tempted to do it again, but I'm not really sure I'll be allowed another dangerous and expensive hobby.  The cold was terrible tho, utterly out of it for two days, then feeling wrecked for 3/4 days.

So decided the moment the cold had lifted that as it was due to get hot later in the week it would be a good idea to get out and get a run in.  Much the same on Weds, got out early to get a run in up Pen-y-Fal.  Even tho it was coolish, I was still feeling like a human sweat bucket by the end of it.  I'm blaming that on me struggling to run the last 500m or so.  It was pretty slow about 2h 5m.  But still it's all miles.  Also I managed to keep to some vague kind of diet and seem to have lost a couple of lbs.  But that could just be de-hydration.  Who knows.

In reply to Ross Barker:

Hey fitties. Thanks for another solid set of stats, Ross. 

You're probably right about that run pace -I think I always underestimate the effect that being tired has on performance (not just in running -I notice it in fingerboarding too).

Week 36:

As seems to be the norm, my week went differently from the planned sessions, but had some good stuff in. Weirdly, even though my week plan almost always gets rearranged, it seems to be more effective at keeping me doing the right number of planned sessions than if I don't make a plan!

M: Unplanned rest.

T: Strength and prehab.

W: Climbing at Ingleby Incline -a series of bafflingly terrible choices meant that I carried two pads up a massive steep hill to a west facing crag in the blazing sun. It was clearly too hot to pull on anything hard so ended up just soloing a load of easy stuff. A bit of a waste of a session out, with the only really productive outcome being a pretty big leg workout humping around pads that I didn't need.

T: Rest. Kept putting off my planned run as it was ferociously hot and then ran out of day.

F: Climbing. Nice to get a day out with Derek. Finished off The Jim Grin (7a) then slowly wilted in the heat on some of the (unexpectedly good) routes on Old Man Crag.

S: Trail run. 31.3km, 917m vert, 6:41/km.

S: Strength and Prehab.

Week 37:

M: Run.

T: Climbing.

W: Prehab.

T: Climbing.

F: Run.

S: Prehab.

S: Strength & Core.

STG (end Sept):

3 off big mountain day list (1/3)

Average twice weekly finger boarding. 

5+ off Lundy hit list (TICK).

MTG (end Dec):

Hidden Dragon or White Wall (Masson, not Millstone!)

100m D6/7 in a session.

110 days climbing for the year (currently 80).

1000 km running (currently 844km) and 40km vertical (currently 27km) for the year.

LTG (end March):

2+ off Scottish VII list.

1+ of Alpine Winter list.

In reply to Ross Barker:

Great work Ross thanks!

Interesting comment re the top-rope E4 and going back to lead.  Actually, while nice enough, it is a bit of a filler really, so not really a destination route.  I remember discussing TR with Steve Claw (more than once) and I quite liked his perspective of often not being bothered unless the route is really worthwhile.  The rope was hanging down it from abbing, so it was a quick bit of training more than anything.  I definitely want to go back to Crummackdale though, which has some good looking lines amongst some less appealing (and a bit dangerous) sections.

A very quiet week for me.  Managed a run on Wednesday - first for ages so only 4 km before it got too hot, but felt steady and pace was ok (for me) at 5.45 per km.  Have been a bit stuck with training - really need to get started on a new cycle, but heat, work and no progress with training station are all a bit in the way.  On top of that, my shoulder has been a bit more troublesome - I think mainly through caravan capers than anything else, but I have been a bit cautious about aggravating things.

Tom came to my rescue Friday and introduced me to Troller's Gill.  On arrival at the parking, I noted the gigantic bull straddled across the footpath with some trepidation, but then reflected that perhaps I was in safe hands with TG?  Boiling hot, but nice to explore somewhere new and even better to support Tom with his successful RP of Jim Grin - a top effort that was really solid on his first proper go.  The first time that I've actually been conscious of my shoulder while climbing though, so not a good landmark for me.  Need to get to some proper rehab again.  Did half-a-dozen bits on the slabbier walls while Tom was resting between attempts.  Another Yorkshire sport place that has good project potential!

This week - hoping to snatch a couple of days out, but a practice has changed it's day and messed up the existing plans, so will have to see what can be worked out.  Need to get a run or two done and at least do some shoulder rehab and stretching each day.  

In reply to Ross Barker:

Hi Ross, hi everyone.

Looks like 85% of one rep max, my mistake.

Am continuing to follow the Crimpd programmes for beginner finger strength and intermediate flexibility.

Mon -- Hip & leg flexibility B, forearm mobility A, upper body mobility A, 6 minute core.

Tue -- 9km morning run, warm.  One-arm "max hangs" with feet on the floor: 5 sets of 7s with 1m between sets.  Got the knack this time.  Then active hip mobility A.

Wed -- Wrist curls and finger curls.

Thu -- 7km afternoon run, very warm.  Repeaters with feet on the floor: 4 sets of 3 reps; 7s on, 3s off.  Feel like I'm getting the hang of pulling rather than just dangling.  Then active posterior chain mobility A and 6 minute core workout.

Fri -- 9km afternoon run, very very warm.

Sat -- to Shorn Cliff, chasing the shade.  Climbed All for One... (HVS 5a), the last on my 2023 hitlist at the crag, a couple of other HVSes, and then Motion Pictures (E1 5b), which I was very pleased with -- particularly in that I managed to work out the crux moves with forearms increasingly tiring forearms, where a few months ago I'd probably have shouted "take!" and fallen off.

Sun -- ice lollies by the paddling pool.

In reply to Ross Barker:

Thanks Ross

I enjoyed my Scotland trip so much that I'm thinking of going back next year. I already have a provisional route planned, crossing the Rough Bounds from Glen Shiel to Glenfinnan over the course of a week or so.

STG: Go climbing
MTG: Autumn '23 tick my first 7a in two years, and/or somthing from my (long) local 6c+ projects list
MTG: Summer '24 uk trad trip with my son and/or Scottish backpacking trip
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber. For measurable definition see Fit Club 823
LTG: Winter 24 or 25 - do an actual off piste ski tour.

M: Flight home from Edinburgh

T: Wanted to ease back into some finger & upper body exercise after a week of partying followed by a week of hillwalking, so: Tindeq max pulls, weighted pullups, ring support l-sits

W: Bike one hour errands around town

T: Bike one hour to gear shop for new half ropes. My son wants to learn to deal with trad gear over the coming year, and my >10 year old Iceline bungees aren't going to cut it any more for regular use.

F: Intended to go to the wall, but stopped by some sort of cold/first virus of the Autumn episode. Great.

S: Feeling somewhat better again, so headed to Thalkirchen after watching the Koper lead semifinal replay. Warmed up on the kilterboard then put in a couple of goes on the 7b+ autobelay project. No new progress; after nearly three weeks away it was largely just a matter of re-learning the sequence for the bits I've already done.

S: Hillwalking, Herzogstand. Quick 800m vert evening round on one of my local hills. Those Munros that are now in the plan for next summer ain't gonna bag themselves.

The trick seems to be getting the pressure just right: firm enough for some support, but not so firm that you're trying to rest your head on a football.

In reply to Ross Barker:

Good morning all. Very mixed week from me. Picked up a shoulder injury of some description, but made little literal leaps in fixing my DWS headgame, calm seas and hot temperatures definitely helped. The shoulder not so much, and unfortunately I think swimming aggravates it unless I opt for a woefully inefficient stroke.

It might have been the last DWS of the year but at least it's a ending on a psychological high, despite my body falling apart!

Last Week:

M - Evening reservoir dip. Very cold. Character building or something like that! Hand ice baths before bed.

T - AM very light hangs. PM board session. Felt really crap warming up. Creaky fingers, left shoulder particularly achy. Raising it, palm down, in front was fine, but lateral raises were quite sore. Maybe something was impinged? It eventually settled and didn't cause much trouble. Ice baths before bed.

W - Played around with bands to try and diagnose this shoulder thing. Some research and "tests" suggest impingement, others suggest maybe some rotator cuff strain. Ice baths before bed.

T - Ice baths before bed.

F - Berry Head Quarry. Couple of easy bits, but importantly: jumped in (from low), climbed back out with no dramas. Improvements! Shoulder was okay ish. Oh yeah, and we saw a big pod of dolphins which was pretty cool!

S - London Bridge. Warmed up on the last bit of the Five Star Traverse Part 2 (5c S1), but my shoulder felt pretty rubbish. It might have just been the result of scuttling across a vertical-ish wall with hands up in the air for a fair distance, but it didn't instill confidence for trying anything else. Still had some little jumps and a little swim.

S - Rest. Lateral raises palm down don't seem to aggravate the shoulder anymore, but palm up does? Feels impingey (I think?!)

Next Week:

M, T, W T - Don't really know. Gym membership has expired and don't really want to shell out cash for shoulder-friendly pootling. Maybe need some external psyche or encouragement?

F, S, S - Away.

Goals:

Diagnose & Rehab shoulder.

Rehab A2.

Improve ability on tiny edges.

Oberth Effect Proj.

In reply to Ross Barker:

Delighted that you've made some good progress with your DWS.  Well done for persisting!

Sorry to hear that shoulder is problematic.  I'll send your club membership pack through...🙂

In reply to Ross Barker:

Hi Ross thanks for your kind comments.

I know you were wondering if the rest of us could give you feedback on your week as it understandably feels weird stating yourself. So, I had a few thoughts re your finger rehab (just realised this was last week not this week sorry). These come from personal curiosity rather the anything too learned, I’ve never worked with climbing injuries and someone like Biscuit’s opinion would be much better, as it’s backed up by experience and evidence. Having said that, I think you’re right to start to question if your light hangs are helping. Your symptoms are now 8/9 months old so you’ve gone beyond simple repair of the tendon strain/tear and are likely now into some form of chronic tendinopathy. It’s a complex area that researchers are still working out what exactly goes on and what’s the best treatment but it’s my understanding that there has been a move towards using higher loading as treatment. Obviously the last thing you want is to aggravate things but I wonder if experimenting with a heavier longer load but then more rest (rather than the twice a days that you’re currently doing)? It would be good to get Biscuit’s thoughts? Also now you've buggered your shoulders up as well! lifts would make more sense than fingerboard hangs, as I'm sure you're aware but you probably want to sort your shoulder first.

STG (next month) – maintain a grip on daily life, maintain and enjoy climbing and training when possible.

MTG (next 2 months)– 1. Autumn run-climb project. 2. String Theory (f7A)?

LTG (next 6 months) – 1. Give me strength – fingers, steep stuff and slopers. 2. Get properly to grips with safe Grit E3s. 3. Lower Traverse (f7A)??.

Mon – Inspired by last week’s crack boulder and prompted by Swede’s visit, I went to Rowsley Wood to look at String Theory (f7A) (a 25ft roof crack). Managed all the individual moves but one. Bit painful but as the week drew on, the worm grew and I’ve convinced myself I might have found a project.

Tues –  nothing

Wed – 4 mile plod around woods. Press ups 3 x 10

Thursday – Finger block hangs half crimp, 10 secs, 2 mins rest; 5kg, 7.5, 10, 12.5, 15, 20, 25, 30, 32.5 (L 7secs, R10), 32.5 (L 9 secs, R 10), 32.5 (L5 secs, R 10). 30 mins stretching. Twisting crunches 36, lying leg raises 16, alternating single leg bridge 36 (planned on doing 3 sets but lost the will after 1 set).

Friday – 30 mins stretching

Saturday – A morning visiting a trio of venues. The first, new to me, Nuda’s Tartan (an old stomping ground of Ally’s?). A bit smeg today and only managed Scenes (f5). Had a vague play on The Meltdown (f7A) which sort of looks inspiring or at least not too fingery, but far too hard for me at the moment. Visited the idyllic spot of Rheinstor, tried Mjolnir Start (f6A+). Got up into niche then got scared. Worked the moves on the second half of the Lower Traverse, might make a very long term project. Finally returned to Rowsley Wood for another look at String Theory (f7A). After using a third of a roll of tape wrapping up all the scars from Monday I pulled into the cave only to realise it was dripping with condensation. Had half an hour flailing but just too wet to do much at all. A summary of the morning would be – too hard, too high, too wet!

Finger block hangs half crimp 10 secs 2 mins rest 2.5kg, 5, 7.5, 10, 12.5, 15, 20, 25, 30, 32.5, 32.5, 33.75 (L 7 secs, R 10), 33.75 (L 4 secs, R 5). New pb.

Sunday – 4 mile plod round the woods. It was so humid I felt like I was running through thick fog. 20mins stretching.

Reflection -Lots going on at work and home over past few weeks, and when I get stressed I snack incessantly. Beginning to feel like a bit of a blob. Most of my grand goals from earlier in the year no longer feel relevant. At the moment climbing/training is more about stress relief i.e. fun and that change is probably a good thing. In that light I enjoyed visiting some different venues. String Theory in particular was a real surprise. A 5ft cave entrance 4ft off the ground, with a tube that disappears into the bowels of the earth and holds 25ft of upside down jamming!   

In reply to Tom Green:

Well done Tom on The Jim Grin - a meaty goal tick

In reply to Ian Parnell:

Thanks Ian. I'm particularly chuffed with this as it is very much my antistyle (I've basically spent two decades avoiding climbing this steep!). I've been really trying to work my weaknesses (cracks; steep/sustained stuff) over the last few years, so it feels good to have some return on investment!

In other news... very interested in String Theory, so if you or SSB want some company, extra pads, etc then give me a shout. (On a similar vibe -have you done Melvyn Bragg (f7B)?) 

In reply to Ross Barker:

Thanks Ross. Although limestone Midnight Caller is quite a slopey lip and if you were over strong for it it would probably go in the summer but I think I'm going to need it cooler!

Lots of running this week but only because it's quick and time to get out has been limited so grabbed what I could.

Mon. 5km run.

Tues. 6 sets of repeaters, 5x5 pull ups, 3x10 press ups.

Wed. 10km run 

Thurs. 1km swim

Fri. Rest.

Sat. Headed into a very condensed chee dale. Cornice soaked, chee tor soaked. Bottom of rhubarb buttress was in the sun and drying nicely but the top half still dripping so we got stuck in with drying it. Redpointed The Day of the Long Knives (7b+) in extremely sub optimal conditions then did another lap on top rope as we didn't have time to 'dry' something else.

Sun. 6km run.

I was worried about being weak as I've not done any sport or proper bouldering (I'm not counting that silly upside down jamming nonsense!) for about 2 months but actually it was fine. I also felt like stamina was good after all the trad recently. I got everything back at the good rest and the pump was slower to come for me on the top wall.

In reply to Tom Green:

Hi Tom, sounds good SSB and I have been talking about an evening session at some point. I will let you know. Lots of pads and lights needed! Not thought too much about Melvyn Bragg seemed way too far above my pay grade - have you tried it/done it?

In reply to Tom Green:

Keen for a MB session, more the merrier. ST probably not good with a big group as it condenses quickly with people breathing inside the cave, better to stick to pairs on this one I think.

In reply to Ian Parnell & Somerset swede basher:

Melyvnn Bragg is one of those weird crack problems that I think are kind of ungradeable! On paper, it is miles above my paygrade, but I actually felt quite close when I tried it a few years ago. Keen to get back on it.

I hadn't thought about the biomass effect on String Theory! Presumably you can't fit more than one person in the cave at once though?!

In reply to Ross Barker:

Cheers for herding the rabble this week.

A couple of half-decent board sessions this week. I had hoped to get out for a couple of hours at the weekend, but glad I didn't commit to the brownie point burn, with squawky Squigg and waking to rain on Saturday morning.

Week 36

M – Smith Mk2 wasn’t asleep until nearly 10pm, so nothing but some stretches in between settling/burping/walking around the garden with her. 

T – Superglue and tape on the split finger to tackle a hot-box board session. Did a bunch of 6B+ to 7A to “warm-up” (i.e. go from merely warm to sweating cobbs). Then tried a few harder things, and eventually completed “05281924” a 7B benchmark (which felt 7B+ to me).

W – 4x 3reps 1-arms with 10kg assist. Perfect intensity; failed on last rep of last set with weaker left arm. F3SHC R / B3 L; 33kg block lift repeaters. Harder than Sunday, but still didn’t feel tweaky Wrist wrench lifts; 6x 10s “max hangs” style, thumbless. 22kg. HARD! Hip stretches.

T – Double round of Crimpd Static Core (2nd set swapped hollow body holds for v-sit holds). Hip stretches.

F – More late night squawkiness from S2. Nothing on the exercise front.

S – Board. 8x 6B+ to 6C+, then projecting non-benchmark “7C+’s”:

• Devil and Me; 3rd go, 7B+?
• Jos Jebaniji, flash, 7A+?
• Chris Kross Apl Sauce, fail. Real grade?
• G.M.Box, fail. Real grade? (Small crimps not happening in high humidity n heat on both of these, but both possible training projects?)
• Static (7C BM) quick play. Certainly feasible?

Finished with some campus boulders on the wooden jugs.

Then an hour of antagonist training pushing the lawnmover through 15cm over-grown grass!

S – Double round of Crimpd Static Core (2nd set swapped hollow body holds for v-sit holds).

In reply to Ian Parnell:

String Theory sounds like fun  

W.r.t. Nudas Tartan - I did a bunch there previously and frequently found smeg in warmer weather.

It was a good winter venue though and got me in good form for some very upside down El Chorro kneebar routes.

I suspect a modern approach to Nudas with a fan or two could be very worthwhile in the summer when there isn't a breeze blowing on to the crag?

(p.s. I'm a terrible snacker too - I love a choccy digestive or 3)

In reply to Ross Barker:

Thanks Ross, the Diamond seems like a long time ago, we saw some DWS folk at the top of Lower Craig y Don, I thought it might be you. I hope you are all enjoying torrential downpours by now, I know it’s petty but I didn’t sit through a damp summer and then pay good money to come on holiday just to miss the best UK connies all year!!

A good start to the week went downhill in terms of attainment!

Climbed at Foron all week where, despite the oppressive temps, the conditions in the morning shade weren’t too bad. 

M: Flashed L'Ascenseur (7a), then a managed Le Retour De Justin (7a+) second go for my best day since my a Portland trip a couple of years ago. 9km amble about in the afternoon

T: Amble around Chamonix, monstrous restaurant prices meant I didn’t overeat too much! Didn’t feel psyched to pull on some heavy boots it’s and rucksack and start walking up hill in the heat, didn’t look like there was much of that going on anyway.

W: Expresso (7a) second go and the. Got to within two moves of Sarbacane (7a+) on my flash go. Next go not as good. OS of Le Baton De Berger (6c) which was great but involved some faff while my belayer suffered in the sun

T: Lake swimming

F: Put the clips in Sarbacane and then tore a big flapper when feeling super good at the top.

S: Clips were in Sarbacane and inexplicably dropped the very last move whilst feeling great twice. Defeated I got on Engagez-Vous (6c+) but was thwarted by a combination of long run out and sandbag tick marks (took a reasonable fall).

Despite my travails on I had great week in great company, the climbing is better than you’d expect looking at the crag and I feel in reasonable shape (by recent standards). This week I probably won’t climb but I already feel psyched to put some hard yards in before a trip to Chullia in October though I’m still not sure either elbow will cope, they’re still a long way from 100%

  

In reply to Ian Parnell:

I imagine Tom would consider that in range for an evening visit given some of his other drives!

In reply to Tyler:

Sounds like a brilliant week. Nice work on the 7a flash! That’s pretty good going. Good work with the air time too!

At the risk of derailing any dieting… you’ve probably earned a Poco Loco with that week!

In reply to Tom Green:

Back at ya! You must be pleased with the Grim Jim. We did contemplate Poco Loco as it’s Fi’s favourite but I find it hot enough in there on the winter, can’t be much fun in the summer. Had to content ourselves with the usual Savoyard diet of melted cheese, potatoes and ham!

In reply to Ross Barker:

Cheers Ross.

The basics are to find a strengthening movement the shoulder can deal with. Then repeat it consistently always adapting it to make sure it's tolerable. Surprisingly simple and complex all at the same time. 

The lurgy went as quickly as it appeared thankfully.

M - No gym post lurgy

30 min on - 6a, 6b, 6a, 6c, 6a etc

Shoulder rehab

T - Went to Trowbarrow to escape the heat. Still totally migning and humid but re-acquanted myself with Red Wall Traverse (7b/+). It's a 40 metre long route with sustained sections followed by hands on rests. Great training really.

Shoulder rehab

W - Gym session and testing

T - Went outside again and surprised myself by doing the traverse this time. My recovery is much better and the hard sections are not that hard (relatively). So if you can recover you are there really.

F - Away for the weekend with my daughter. Whilst I didn't drink I don't think I ate a piece of fruit or a vegetable the whole weekend.

S - As above

S - As above

Testing results- previous tests May '23 - I was 1kg heavier then also 

Max passive Left - 41.8 to 45.9  Right - 43.9-47.5

Max active Left - 28-38.6    Right - 29.3 - 41,4

Critical force - 20.51

Peak force/BW - 68.8%

CF/BW - 29.7%

CF/PF - 43.2%

Predicted quick redpoint grade 7b+ and no priority weakness, need to work both fingers and fitness

Getting training levels sorted this week and then we've got some time off which will see us heading wherever the weather looks best in the UK. Fingers crossed.

In reply to biscuit:

Red wall trav is a good marker for any trips abroad you have coming up. I was going to wait for someone else to ask what Max Active and Max Passive are but while I’m here….

Also, are these figures improvements on May?

In reply to Tyler:

Passive grip is where you make a half crimp and pull as hard as you can - the normal way I guess.

Active is to set up and curl a few degrees into the grip. Harder to set up as you have to eliminate force coming from elsewhere but it should measure just the finger flexors (ish).

Yes the numbers on the left of each test are my result from May. I have always had strong fingers when it comes to making a grip shape and hanging off it. Being powerful, or changing grip, I've always been terrible at. So I made that a priority. Low hanging fruit and the testing seems to suggest it has worked. The kilter board today is telling me otherwise......

I find the holds on the kilter to hit this really well. They aren't crimps, or open, they're inbetween and you have to be active on them.

In reply to Ross Barker:

Yeah, i have reduced it to two sessions this week, but kept the intensity high which worked out quite well. I think i just need to have a minimum 2 rest days for a muscle group after a hard maximum strength session, while 1 rest day is fine for lower intensity session in the 6-12 rep range. 

Mon: Leg-Day Some bodyweight squats and calf raises

Tues: Rest

Wed:  Assisted One-Arm-Lockoffs: 95% BW: 150°: 12s with right arm, 15s with left arm: 120°: right: 15s; left: 15s; 90°: right: 15s, left: 15s; 45°; right: 9s, left: 5s; 6x6x7,3 at 97,5% BW on 20mm egde, 40 Pushups; 

Thur: Leg-workout: Bodyweight squats, single leg calf raises, Lunges

Fri: Rest

Sat: Rest, had a little bit of a sore throat and felt generally tired. Maybe start of a infection, but it could also just be mild irritation due to working the whole week in an air conditioned office.

Sun:  Assisted One-Arm-Lockoffs: 97,5% BW: 150°: 10s with right arm, 10s with left arm: 120°: right: 10s; left: 9s; 90°: right: 10s, left: 10s; 95% BW 45°; right: 9s, left: ss; 6x6x7,3 at 97,5% BW on 20mm egde, felt much better and did not have any issues with my throat, so probably it was the AC

A decent training week with a good progression with the lockoffs. Hopefully, i can remove the assistance completely for 150° to 90° in 2-3 weeks. Interestingly at higher angles my left arm feels a little bit stronger while at lower angles my right arm is a little bit better.

I also introduced a little bit of leg training. Trigger point that the week before i had my first office day since injuring my foot, and was sore on the next day just from walking a couple meters from the metro to my office and walking a couple of stairs . I also targeted my calfes specifically, as it is one my weak points compared to my rest of my body and might have contributed to getting the problems in the first place.

Foot is improving a little bit after a new stretching routine and some more specific exercises that i got from youtube. So fingers crossed that i can get rid of injury soon and don't loose the whole autumn season.

In reply to Ross Barker:

Cheers Ross. No, just an ever growing list of niggles and clicky bits! Quite busy getting to grips with my new role but still managed a garage training session and TWO climbing trips (on actual rock) in ONE week - I’d feel lucky if I got two a month in my last gaff.

Wed

• Lattice Wood Block Pinches. Stayed strict with fingers and thumb above the line. 5x 10s 15kg. Would have liked to start doing some Yves-Style Block Lifts, but don’t have enough weight so these are the closest substitute. 
• OA Lockoffs 3x 10s (80%BW). More weight on the pulley and increased duration to get my form back. Sets of 10s feels about the right intensity so will start reducing incremental weight.
• RTO Dips 5x 3. Haven’t tried these in ages but felt quite easy. Will start to increase the forward lean.
• Ring Rows 3x 5
• Hanging Wipers 3x 6 (+7lb). Reps have halved, but I’ve changed to a thinner pullup bar in the garage with a bit of contortion to get my feet past a light fitting! Will experiment doing them on rings to get a bit more clearance.

Fri

First taste of some Frome Valley Sandstone! Lots of font 6s at Hambrook. The warm slopers and pockets were a bit of a shock after years of sharp limestone crimping, but 10mins from home, vice the old 2-hour drive to Portland, feels amazing.

Sun

Nipped back to Hambrook during nipper’s naptime (a novelty for me!). Ticked off a few of the easier traverses and a new f6.

A good week and hoping to get a bit more training in now my routine is settling down. 

In reply to Ross Barker:

Cheers Ross. I managed to see my climbing Physio on Monday. Since qualifying in 2009 and specializing in seeing climbers for the last 4 years, he's never seen a DIP join dislocation with a laceration so we're in uncharted territory. The plan is to play it safe and have another 3 weeks resting and stretching it, then gradually increase load on a fingerboard and with easy climbing, similarly to the rehab for a pulley tear, though I am able to do barbell work again. 

Another higher volume cardio week than usual, which has definitely highlighted how unfit I am at the moment!

M - Hilly zone 3 ride. 28km / 638m ascent / 1hr 11mins / 23.5kph average

T - 4k zone 2 recovery run

W - 35 minute fartlek (10 min warm-up, 4min Z4, 2 min Z2, 3min Z4, 1.5min Z2, 2min Z4, 1min Z2, 1min Z4, 10min Z2

T - Rest

F - 8k zone 2 base run

S - Zone 2 base ride. 48km / 296m ascent / 1hr 50mins / 26kph average

S - Strength & conditioning. 5x5 bench press, 10 x 3 press-ups, 10 x 3 dumbbell chest press, 10 x 3 tricep extensions, 10 x 3 tricep dips

In reply to Ross Barker:

There's always a hope it shifts in a storm I guess, although that's a dangerous thing to wish for in terms of the structural stability of the rest!

At the moment I'm trying to enjoy the last of the summer and try to get on top of the shoulder injury. I could be doing stuff in terms of fingerboarding I guess but with limited time I want to be fully functional first and foremost. Once I feel like I'm on the upslope from that I might try to start getting into more focused training again.

A decent week for me, and a good mini weekend away. It's good to be able to do those again after a while over last autumn and winter where it just didn't feel at all like an option for us. I stretched slightly further the bounds of what I can climb with it just being the 4 of us, which is good. It's probably also good for me to feel like I should try to climb quickly, and logistically I often pick a single rope which makes me think a bit more about placing and extending gear.

Monday - boulderfield per last week

Tuesday - Thursday - I think I did some rehab on at least two of these days, possibly all three

Friday - rest

Saturday - left in the morning and drove to  Haytor, hoping that north and west faces would provide some shade and the position would provide some breeze. The first choice for the day was a poor one, a line that wandered more than it looked like it should and which miniAJM took a little swing on which he didn't like. The cows were hogging the shade, but we snuck ahead of them and I managed to do Vandal and Ann (HVS 5b), which has a thin start and then a bold section above, then a slightly awkward but ok groove to finish. Felt stern. After that we did Raven Gully (S 4a) which I had seconded before but never led. So that's another 1% of SWC led it was hot hot by then with few options for shade so we went for ice cream and then a pint in the Rugglestone.

Sunday - rain overnight, cloudy and still to start. Some prevaricating over crag choice but Dewerstone was probably out, and it didn't feel like it would be much like drying weather even on the top of the moor. In the end we drove part way home and tried to lock in some hillwalking love by taking the kids up Golden Cap, between Bridport and Lyme Regis. A short sharp sweaty hill up from the beach, some good if hazy views and more ice cream when we got back down.

In reply to Ross Barker:

Thank you Ross,

Lundy is next week (so report the week after).

Really hot and humid here this week, so not as much done as I would like.  Any climbing quickly resulting is wrecked finger skin.

M - Back to a bouldery 7b I was working with a few weeks ago.  Decided not to bolt it, and as the crux is low, to climb it as a highball at some point.  Gave it another clean and refined beta on a rope, and be sure all the holds are sound, broke a few more, changed the beta, and all good ready to go now.

T - New routes 7a, 7a, feeling hot. Had a go on a 7c, but just not possible in those conditions.

W - Mendips day, cleaned and climbed a new E3 6a then ran to hide at an esoteric crag Wavering Down in the shade. Though no-one had ever been there, until I saw SSB in the logs from 10 years ago.  Soloed some easy routes and did a 5c eliminate.

Nothing the rest of the week.

In reply to Ross Barker:

Many thanks, Ross.

The week unfolded so:

Mon: Kaserwand, Bavarian Prealps; an unbelievably clear-sky day. Crag is at about 1640 meters elevation, the walk in steep to very steep and took over an hour; soaked in sweat…but it didn’t matter because the view was incredible…and I instantly knew that the climbing was secondary…only did three routes, albeit all rather long for single sport pitches: 5c, 5c+, 6a+; all three had bulges and after a bit of hesitancy on the first, the other two went fine…the descent in the stillness and with a setting sun…special.
Tue: stretching
Wed: wall, Thalkirchen, 5b, 6a+, 6a+, 6b+, 6c+, 6a+, 6c+, 6a+…felt really solid once the tiredness was shaken off; physically the two 6c+s were no great problem – just route reading and committing to the moves; got them done first go and enjoyed the afternoon…
Thu: stretching – yoga, lower body routine; upper body routine
Fri: hang board session
Sat: boulder session, DAV wall in Berlin – off early to Berlin for father-in-law’s 90th birthday party…sneaked in a 2 hour session, just to get the kinks out of the body after the train trip – and to ‘earn’ the couple of beers to follow…
Sun: train back south…or so we thought – the last train to Munich cancelled 12 minutes before due departure; tried to make other connections, ended up staying over in Leipzig…journey back home resumed at 5.48 a.m….I’m still knackered from the whole weekend…

Are you following a particular protocol with the hangboard, with any goals in mind?

Thanks for asking, Ross.
Since July I’ve been doing offset / mixed holds on a Metolius hang board: 6 hold combinations, with loading one side and then the other, 6 times each hold combi; so that’s 36 x 2 = 72 holds; I started with 4-6 seconds, but on three of the more generous combis I’m up to 8-12 seconds; recently I’ve started doing a mini extra round at the end and for these three I then put on the weight vest for 4-6 seconds.
After that French pull ups, a set of five, holding each position for 3-5 secs; then maybe two sets of the zig or pyramid pullups. A bit of core with knee-ups in between…
 

No goals in mind. I’m just trying to keep things ticking over until the end of October; too much work recently and the two week annuals (no climbing this year,☹) coming up in late Sept/early Oct. And then, end of October, after the last planned block of climbing somewhere yet to be decided, take stock and maybe plan a few cycles for this coming winter…
And to be honest, I have more difficulties with two other key aspects of climbing that are not training related – which I really enjoy and in fact need.
They’re the network of partners and – precisely what you ask – the setting of goals. Alas, the hindering ‘mechanisms’ in both are complex-PTSD related and have been grinding away for quite a few decades now – putting them out of service won’t be easy…

Wishing all a good week, and hope that the weather is as sparkling, if still a touch too warm, as we’re having down here.

In reply to Steve Claw:

I remember them being pretty scrappy and no great quality.  Did you manage to get anything good out of the buttress?

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Only a little eliminate route to the left hand end.  It is a bit scrappy, but as that day proved, its has its charms, especially in hot weather.

Discussions are ongoing about a clean up there, and removal of the worst loose blocks, which could lead to a nice place for children.

In reply to Ross Barker:

Thanks Ross, building the good habits of getting my exercise in whilst the kids train in the evenings. Happily its easier whilst its still light in the evenings but that's disappearing fast! Had a good consistent week, got everything done on work days as i knew the weekend would be frantic!

Monday, 1km lunchtime swim and a 7.5k evening run

Tuesday, 1.5k lunchtime swim and 8k evening run

Wednesday, 1k lunchtime swim and 8k evening run 

Thursday, pushed for time so just a 0.5k lunchtime swim and stretch cancelled, 8k run in the evening

Friday, 1k lunchtime swim, 5k evening run with a 0.5k warm down swim

Weekend as predicted was frantic with taxi duties and eldest daughters 20th birthday. No longer a father of teenagers!!