UKC

OHM II & PINCH from EDELRID Gear News

2024 is, as usual, shaping up to be an exciting year for EDELRID. This year brings, not only some new products but also some long overdue updates to existing products in the range. We could go on for hours about updates to the range but instead we thought we'd list two highlight products for 2024.

Less reading for you, less writing for me. Winner!

OHM II (RRP: £115)

​The second iteration of EDELRID's, undoubtedly, most famous product!

The new OHM is easier to use than ever thanks to a number of updates. The device itself is now fitted with a swivel joint, meaning that the clipping direction no longer matters when the device is clipped to the first bolt. The locking system has also been improved, the device now features a button as a pose to the catch seen on the previous generation. 

  • Far lower forces are exerted on the belayer
  • Lowering a heavier person in a controlled manner is far easier
  • OHM is attached at the first bolt in the safety chain
  • The device reduces the risk of a collision when falling on the first bolt
  • Rope handling when belaying a lead climber not affected (no additional friction when paying out rope)
  • "Makes the belayer 25 kg heavier"
  • Minimum belayer weight: 40 kg
  • For single ropes from 8.9–11.0 mm

PINCH (RRP: £95)

The EDELRID PINCH is a completely new belaying experience.

The PINCH is the first device on the market that can be attached directly to the belay loop of the climbing harness, without the need for a carabiner. Thanks to its low, close-to-the-body position, the PINCH does not need to be held in place when releasing the rope, allowing the dead rope to be held firmly with the full hand.

Eliminating the carabiner provides an increased span, allowing the belayer to pay out 20-30cm more rope at once. The linear rope run through the frontal steel braking grooves reduces rope tangles when lowering and abseiling. In addition to the release lever, the speed can be controlled by the pressure of the braking hand. This contributes to increased braking rope control, especially when using thin, soft ropes. The PINCH can be used with a carabiner if required.

The anti-panic function provides added safety not only for beginners but also for experienced climbers and rope access technicians. The anti-panic can be overridden by pulling the lever as far back as possible. Pulling the lever to this point also enables controlled lowering when securing particularly light persons or in systems with high rope friction.

The anti-panic function can be permanently deactivated using the screw supplied.

When being used on multi-pitch climbs, the PINCH is the only device on the market that can be attached to the belay station in four different directions in 90° increments. This means that the belay lever can always be brought into a position in which it can be operated freely.

  • Assisted braking belay device for use in sport climbing, multi-pitch climbing and rope access techniques
  • Position close to the body due to direct harness connection increases brake rope control and improves usability
  • Direct harness connection eliminates the risk of cross-loading the belay carabiner
  • Anti-panic function can be deactivated for increased safety by automatically locking the device if the release lever is pulled too far backwards
  • Second braking tier if the anti-panic function is activated too frequently due to insufficient load and/or excessive rope friction
  • Frontal steel brake grooves allow the rope to run linearly and ensure less rope tangling, increased durability and prevent unsightly discoloration that occurs when the rope rubs against aluminium
  • Attachment to the stand in four different directions in 90° increments
  • Equal operation for right and left-handed users
  • Suitable for static ropes from 10.0-10.5 mm(120 kg max. user weight)
  • Suitable for dynamic ropes from 8.5-10.5 mm


For more information visit EDELRID's website



Intrigued to see the Pinch, in particular. We’ll be getting both in for review, so watch this space…

8 Mar

Always like how Edelrid seems to keep innovating and improving in quite a crowded market.

Interested to see the Pinch's applicability for multi-pitch, which was shown very briefly in the vid

8 Mar

Would be interested in your thoughts on the anti-panic option when you test it.

"The anti-panic can be overridden by pulling the lever as far back as possible."

Seems like this would kind of defeat the point of having an anti-panic feature in the first place? But maybe it's really hard to pull it back that far or something.

Nice leggings...

8 Mar

Where can I get one of those foot-long carabiners?

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Product News at UKC presents climbing, walking and mountaineering equipment posts that will be of interest to our readers. Please feel free to comment about the post and products on the associated thread.
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