Today a team of three Italian climbers, led by Herve Barmasse, set off to attempt the North Face of Baintha Brakk (7,285m) in the Karakorum, Pakistan. Also known as 'Ogre', it's the highest mountain in the Pammah Muztagh region. To date only two routes have been climbed - both from the south. The first ascent, by Sir Chris Bonnington and Douglas Scott, was in 1977. The second successful climb came 20 expeditions and 24 years later in 2001.
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Barmasse, Daniele Bernasconi and Martin Peterlongo's attempt on Ogre's North Face will require a 2,500m technical climb, alpine style, and a prolonged stay in Snow Lake; an ice field located at the base of a small arctic glacier. The team will arrive at base camp early July after a journey by foot and 4x4 along the Biafo and Sin Gang glacier up to the Snow Lake. At base camp, the team will begin their acclimatisation with several first ascents waiting for a fair weather window. It's expected the expedition will last for 55 days.
Barmasse explains his reasons for attempting the climb: "For me, mountaineering exploration is found where there is uncertainty and a confrontation with nature. Logistical difficulties combined with a hostile environment forces the climber to accept risk and icy conditions as climbing companions. Ogre fully sums up this concept. It signifies the way I do mountaineering: away from the common routes, from the crowd, looking for myself, and my limits."
Herve Barmasse is sponsored by The North Face.
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