Rockfax Description
Gain the crack in the south-facing side-wall from the right by a short traverse along the horizontal break. Once entered it gives classic jamming. A Direct Start is HVS 5c and a Left-hand Finish is a good solid HVS 5a, combine them for a good trip. © Rockfax

FA. Eric Byne 1932-33

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Eastern Grit Jamming, Stanage 100 VD - VS, Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide), Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Stanage for Crack Apprentices.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
Jim Slater 11/Oct Lead O/S
Sam Simpson 22/Sep Solo O/S
Dave Turnbull
Lenny 05/Sep Lead O/S
planetmarshall 30/Aug Lead O/S


Steve Ashton
augustus trout 28/Aug Lead
Dave H
Andrew Abraham 23/Aug Lead O/S
Montecore 22/Aug Lead dog

Felt really hard but then I don't like jamming and laybacked the main crack after sitting on the gear

Ben Whittaker
Hidden 16/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Aug AltLd
Ropeboy 03/Aug Lead
nick244 01/Aug -
keitht 23/Jul Lead

Hard move to get established in the crack but then more intimidating than hard. Great line.

Dewi Turton
dewiturton 23/Jul 2nd
Hidden 18/Jul Lead rpt
bullwinkle 18/Jul 2nd rpt
jonhowson 07/Jun Lead dog

Found the first jamming crack hard work

gavinpeach 05/Jun Lead O/S

Lovely route. A little more sheltered from the wind. Bomber jams and great gear make a really enjoyable VS.

amccann 03/Jun Lead O/S
MSchobitz 03/Jun 2nd O/S
Calum Wadsworth 03/Jun Lead O/S

Lovely route.

DanChad 30/May Lead O/S

Tricky offwidth crux.

Le Chevalier Mal Fet 30/May 2nd

Great route. Awkward offwidth crux.

Hidden 28/May Lead
dj_brigham05 27/May Lead O/S
Grant Harris
Hidden 24/May Lead
ChrisBrooke 23/May 2nd
Duncan Bell
soph 21/May Solo rpt
morganator 21/May Solo O/S
AJ007 20/May Solo O/S
Hidden 10/May Lead O/S
Chris M 10/May AltLd
Hidden 10/May 2nd
john max 10/May Lead
Mick Sissons
georgenvk 04/May Lead RP
GAHarris ?/May 2nd
morganator 23/Apr Solo
soph 23/Apr Solo rpt
TobyA 17/Apr Lead O/S

Nice little route.

Tom R
ralphio 08/Apr 2nd


Ade, Nik
buxtoncoffeelover 08/Apr Lead
Hidden 07/Apr Lead O/S
Ian Stirrups 04/Apr Lead dnf

Sue retieved gear on top rope

Derek Furze 07/Mar 2nd
Paul Mitchell
Hidden ??/2015 -
Canyak ??/2015 -
DubyaJamesDubya ??/2015 -
sikcby 02/Dec/14 Lead O/S


Colin Scotchford 09/Nov/14 2nd
Hidden 01/Nov/14 AltLd
Hidden 21/Sep/14 Lead RP
vanderz 04/Sep/14 Lead O/S
robblowen 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S
ashtond6 31/Aug/14 2nd O/S
mike bridges 30/Aug/14 2nd O/S

Rob had a left hand jamming glove,so we used it! Ha ha. Great route!

Hidden 24/Aug/14 Lead
Boy 19/Aug/14 Solo
DBoothroyd 17/Aug/14 Lead dog

Great route, gnarly start. Section after the traverse is hard unless you have outrageously large hands.

Joe Mortimer, Nathan Magnall
namagnall 17/Aug/14 2nd
djones66 09/Aug/14 2nd O/S

I don't like this climb! Am a small chap with small hands, and this is a good route for big people with big hands. Don't plan on leading this....ever.

Stve mc D
Joris.Roulleau 21/Jun/14 2nd β
dannyboy83 06/Jun/14 Solo O/S
FlavioL1989 25/May/14 Lead dog
Jamie Everitt 25/May/14 2nd dog

Rest in the crack.

marshallb93 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/14 2nd
Palmer 30/Mar/14 Lead β
atthedropofahat 30/Mar/14 Lead dnf

Crack above horizontal break was too off width for me with my 'limestone' jamming ability. Came down to be told the 'secret', there is a convenient pocket located outside the crack. Back next time

soph 09/Mar/14 2nd
Megan Freeth
Andy Peak 1 03/Mar/14 Lead

Bril fun climbing

phill ukc
Hidden ??/2014 2nd
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
Lotoni ?/Dec/13 Lead

diret start, normal finish. fell twice begining

Matt Cooke 30/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Scott, Sam Taylor
scott452 30/Nov/13 2nd
Sam Taylor, Matt Cooke
georgenvk 10/Nov/13 Lead dnf
bantamdave 29/Sep/13 Lead dog
dr_botnik 10/Sep/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S
caradoc 25/May/13 Lead O/S

A bit of a culture shock, I haven't climbed on grit for a year.

Phil Layton 11/May/13 Lead dnf

So windy I couldn't get established.

Phil Laxton
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/May/13 Lead
Benno Wagner
Graeme Hammond 24/Apr/13 Solo rpt

Also 2nd earlier in the evening also with Richard

hotfeet 20/Apr/13 Lead
Blue68 20/Apr/13 2nd O/S

Enjoyed this one

Hidden ??/2013 2nd dog
papashango 14/Oct/12 Lead
dr_botnik 08/Oct/12 2nd O/S
Joe, Graham
AlexRenshaw 06/Oct/12 2nd
Tim Raffle, Mike Dawes
Hidden 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
MikeLeeds 08/Sep/12 2nd O/S
John McMahon
RichardMc 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Dave Langmead
Alex@home 05/Sep/12 2nd O/S
gritstone ryan 12/Aug/12 2nd

vs 4c. i started this roite got about half way. lw left first piece of gear in and carried on up the route. superb route.

LeeWithers1987 ?/Aug/12 Lead
jshields 29/Jul/12 Lead
Ruth Gordon
Hidden 29/Jul/12 2nd O/S
DaveB61 29/Jul/12 2nd
MikeDowsett 29/Jul/12 Lead
Dave Bankart, John Harrison
max_chan 15/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Steve Carty
Hidden 15/Jul/12 AltLd rpt
Ben Wolstenholme ?/Jul/12 -
will_benfold 10/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Most of the jamming is avoidable.

Caroline Culwick
Hidden 10/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/May/12 2nd
chrisbussell 22/May/12 Lead
Tim O'Neill
Helen Gibson 22/May/12 Lead
nigel pearson 20/May/12 Lead O/S

full on from start, but if you trust the jams it all works.

Hidden 12/May/12 2nd
pie_eater_pete 30/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Kirill 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
cem 01/Apr/12 2nd rpt
Hidden ?/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Sean Kelly ??/2012 -
adie84 ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 2nd
Hidden ??/2012 Lead
mark20 19/Nov/11 2nd O/S
bigdrew 19/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Oct/11 Solo O/S
Alex Winter 16/Sep/11 2nd O/S

Did the direct start. Climbs far better than it looks.

Douglas 16/Sep/11 Lead dog
chrism225 15/Sep/11 Lead O/S
JRae 15/Sep/11 2nd
MPSBunny 29/Aug/11 Lead

I think this is like my fourth or fifth VS. Very pleased with this lead, was very hard though a nice rest in the middle was very much appreciated. On topping out I felt a little cheer was called for. John did the direct start.

b.hayley 19/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/11 Lead
howlingbaboon 02/Jul/11 2nd rpt

Direct start. Wow! never thought of a campus fist jam until today.

Hidden 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
belay bunny turned bad 11/Jun/11 2nd O/S
stephenhartley 10/Jun/11 2nd

Direct start

ryan jones
kitkat78 02/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Steve C, Graham P
Steve13 28/May/11 2nd β
Brown 19/Mar/11 Solo O/S
howlingbaboon ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Awesome Route! - Scott beasted the direct start.

uphillnow ??/2011 -
Hidden 06/Nov/10 2nd O/S
tlmarjot 06/Nov/10 Lead O/S
Chris Todd, Ben Lea
Hidden 06/Nov/10 2nd
Jonathan Hall 24/Oct/10 2nd
disturbed_one51 24/Oct/10 Lead

direct start. HVS 5c. brilliant jam and jug fest.

Andrew Sloan 24/Oct/10 2nd O/S

Did left hand finish.

mountaingoatgirl 19/Oct/10 Lead β

What a struggle :( 1 year later I find out why, ripped the tendon in right shoulder, from slipping on wet grass in climbing shoes at bottom of climb. Boo Hoo!

Nick Bean
TerryLines 18/Sep/10 2nd O/S
theotherpetehill 28/Aug/10 2nd
chrisallan 28/Aug/10 Lead rpt
masa-alpin 15/Aug/10 2nd β

I thought it was pretty hard, even the starting move, which is supposed to be Diff.

Pete Nugent 08/Jul/10 2nd

Excellent route

Richard Toon
keefe 13/Jun/10 Lead
JamieSparkes 11/Jun/10 Lead O/S

HVS 5c direct start

Nick1812P 11/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/May/10 Solo O/S
smudge 20/May/10 Lead O/S

Direct 5c start, brilliant climb

Phil1967 20/May/10 2nd dog
mikej 27/Apr/10 2nd
Rick Naylor
Hidden 18/Apr/10 2nd dog
Hidden 17/Apr/10 2nd RP
Hidden 17/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Anthony Dixon 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/10 -
philw ??/2010 -
Hidden ?/Dec/09 -
RCrockford 19/Sep/09 Lead dog
Diggler 19/Sep/09 2nd
titchbach 11/Sep/09 2nd
Hidden 07/Sep/09 Solo
Hidden 19/Aug/09 2nd
teflonpete 16/Aug/09 2nd β

Good route, jams in the bottom crack are more like arm bars. Bit green though.

Dave M
andyebbens 22/Jun/09 2nd
Hidden 14/Jun/09 Lead
Hidden 14/Jun/09 Lead
Hidden 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S
sgl0jd 08/Jun/09 2nd
Hidden 08/Jun/09 Lead O/S
bullwinkle 25/May/09 Lead O/S
daveclarke5 19/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Si dH 21/Feb/09 Lead O/S
Neil Furniss
Hidden 21/Feb/09 2nd rpt
shark 31/Jan/09 Solo
Ram MkiV 31/Jan/09 Solo O/S

direct start

reg_measures ??/2009 Lead
neil and claire
Hidden ??/2009 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 Lead
PenJD 18/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Jackie Bernardi
Hidden 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S
greenclimb 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S
lowersharpnose 25/Sep/08 2nd
Hidden 25/Sep/08 Lead O/S
deacondeacon 20/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Direct start HVS 5c (Rockfax Eastern Grit) Although I did the direct start found the jamming crack most difficult.

TomHaigh 15/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Nicos 15/Jul/08 Solo rpt
Hidden 07/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/08 -
Hidden 17/Jun/08 TR
Hidden 14/Jun/08 2nd O/S
alek 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S
feilx 11/Jun/08 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/08 -
Stig 18/May/08 2nd rpt
Jonathan Teale
Rob84 10/May/08 Lead O/S
Dave Ripley
Hidden 10/May/08 2nd
Hidden 05/May/08 Lead O/S
Ian Parnell ?/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Jon Winter
jamesturnbull ??/2008 Lead
jimdanson 27/Sep/07 2nd
Martin Ibbotson
Jimbo C 08/Sep/07 2nd
danm ?/Sep/07 2nd
craig d 04/Aug/07 2nd
Simon Kincaid
Hidden 21/Jun/07 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond 10/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Twisty 10/Jun/07 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond
Hidden 03/Jun/07 2nd rpt
Hidden ?/Jun/07 Lead
Hidden 26/May/07 2nd
Hidden 04/Feb/07 Lead
Steve Banham 14/Jan/07 Lead O/S

Sustained last section Jamming is the key

Duncan I ??/2007 -
gethin_allen ??/2007 Lead

hard for VS, notched up my first lead fall, and then struggled to get my 7 hex back out.

colin milton 14/Jul/06 Lead

fantastic route

Hidden 14/Jul/06 2nd O/S
MeMeMe 22/Apr/06 2nd
Smelly Fox ?/Oct/04 Lead O/S
Smeegan ?/Sep/04 Lead O/S
Stig 16/Jul/04 2nd O/S
Charlie Reade-Jahn
Ken Taylor 01/Jun/04 Lead
Gerry Dunford
Blod 27/Sep/03 Lead O/S
Kevin N
Hidden 03/Aug/03 2nd
Hidden 14/Jun/03 Solo O/S
aged_ape ?/May/02 Lead O/S
BenTiffin ??/2002 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2002 -
Roget 27/Oct/01 Solo O/S
kp64zl ?/Oct/01 Lead
Paddy B
Hidden 19/May/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/May/01 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/May/01 Lead
Hidden 13/May/01 Lead
Alastair Hudson 02/Dec/00 Lead O/S
Mariano Kalfors
Hidden 27/Aug/00 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 10/Oct/98 Lead β
James Tracey
Hidden 08/Aug/98 Lead O/S
cem 25/Apr/98 2nd dog
Dave Mountford ?/Jul/97 Lead
Damon Heath
Dave Mountford ??/1997 Lead

estimated date

Damon Heath
Hidden ?/Oct/96 Lead O/S
Chris Ellis 16/Jul/94 Lead
Laramadness ??/1994 2nd
Hidden 14/Aug/93 Lead
ste_d 21/May/93 2nd O/S
Stoney Boy 28/Apr/91 2nd O/S
Colin Hughes
Hidden 26/Jun/90 Lead
Hidden 27/May/90 2nd
steve prior ?/May/90 Lead
Rob W
Andy Say 01/Jan/89 Solo
BRUCESTRAC ??/1988 -
Chris Cracknell,Various
Chris Ellis 20/Sep/87 2nd
Simon Barnaby
charlesmfrench 04/Jul/87 Solo O/S
Dave Musgrove 29/Nov/86 -
Kim Greenald
Hidden 06/Jul/86 Lead
mark-abz 15/Nov/84 TR
Hidden 25/Feb/84 2nd
Hidden ??/1982 2nd
Nigel Bond 07/Sep/80 Lead
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Solo
Gordon Stainforth 05/Jul/70 2nd

I find it very hard.

John Stainforth
mikej 22/Mar/70 Lead
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 58
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 59
Votes cast 59
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set