Lofoten > Vagakallen >
 
Nordryggen*** n4+

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505m, 12 pitches. Start on the right of the col, at the base of a small groove. 1) 4, 20m. Climb the groove up to a belay. 2-3) 80m. Grade 2 to 3 scrambling leads around the corner to the left, then up the ridge for 2 rope lengths. 4) 3, 45m. Move around a loose corner on the left and climb mossy blocks to the Lunch Ledge below a prominent vertical chimney. 5) 4+, 25m. Climb the chimney past several chockstones. Go through a tunnel on the right, then back left to a belay. Wet near the top. 6) 3+, 20m. Head up a short wall then move right around a corner to a belay near the bottom of a gully. 7) 3, 20m. Climb straight up the ridge, staying to the left of the gully, to blocks and a belay. 8) 4-, 30m. Follow the ridge and climb up a shallow corner. 9) 2, 30m. Easy scrambling leads up to the base of a slab split by a jamming crack. 10) 4+, 25m. Climb the hand-crack up the slab by jamming and laybacking, to a good ledge under a large bulge in the ridge. 11) 4+, 35m. Traverse right across a big flake (and move slightly downwards) then leave the flake. Traverse right across a short wall into a chimney. Climb straight up the chimney to regain the ridge crest. 12) 2, 175m. Follow the slabby ridge (tricky at the start), then scramble up the ridge to a gap which requires a jump to cross. Continue more easily to the summit. Descent - Use the standard South Face Route back over the Vågakallen - Kvanndalstinden col, then down to the Djupfjorden parking spot at the fjord entrance where your chariot awaits. © ROCKFAX
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 19 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/14

ferdia - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/13 with Lyndsey, Clare Muir

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Jun/13

Walked into this route after getting up at 4:30 in the morning to make sure there was time to pack after. After getting to the base of the route I was too cold and wet so decided to back off and walk back to Henningsvaer via Djupford.
James Oswald - Lead dnf - Jun/13 with Ferdia, Lindsay, Clare Erskine

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/12

Fantastic positions and worth it just for the view but the climbing is good in places and passes through some great rock......and to top it off there is a jump accross an abyss. Lofoten's Tower Ridge. Oh yes, and then there is the descent!
Steven Andrews - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/12 with Delphine

Nice mountaineering route. Lots of scrambling with a few climbing pitches on mostly solid rock. Jumping the gap was quite scary. Combined with the descent of the normal route made for a superb day out. Well worth the 3 stars
Conan - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/11 with Paul Farish

Hidden - Lead - 11/Jun/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/10

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Jul/10

very spectacular and quite epic with the gap! still quite wet and muddy in places which added to the excitement but the views were just stunning! well worth it!
sonnenstern - AltLd O/S - Jul/10 with Rachel

Roch - AltLd - 26/Jul/09 with MRT

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/09

2 or 3 good pitches and the fancy jump at the end. and fabulous views. Apart from that, not much fun really, the shitiest rock ever. Not really worth it. I recommend the walk up Vagakallen instead
Joris.Roulleau - Lead - Jul/09 with Libby Blundell

No gap to jump, a lot of snow instead.
dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/09 with helen gibson

eivindf - Solo O/S - 2009

Tarquin - 2009

Hidden - 12/Jul/08

VS jump across the final gap plus at least one pitch of 4c
biggianthead - 08/Jul/08 with T

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Timothy Miller, Hidden, poeter210, Batt

Voting
Total votes cast 13
hard n5-0 of 0
n5-0 of 0
easy n5-0 of 0
hard n4+0 of 0
n4+0 of 0
easy n4+0 of 0
hard n40 of 0
n40 of 0
easy n40 of 0
3 Stars2 of 7
2 Stars4 of 7
1 Star1 of 7
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Bag of .....0 of 7
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