|505m, 12 pitches. 505m. Start on the right of the col, at the base of a small groove.|
1) 4, 20m. Climb the groove up to a belay.
2-3) 80m. Grade 2 to 3 scrambling leads around the corner to the left, then up the ridge for 2 rope lengths.
4) 3, 45m. Move around a loose corner on the left and climb mossy blocks to the Lunch Ledge below a prominent vertical chimney.
5) 4+, 25m. Climb the chimney past several chockstones. Go through a tunnel on the right, then back left to a belay. Wet near the top.
6) 3+, 20m. Head up a short wall then move right around a corner to a belay near the bottom of a gully.
7) 3, 20m. Climb straight up the ridge, staying to the left of the gully, to blocks and a belay.
8) 4-, 30m. Follow the ridge and climb up a shallow corner.
9) 2, 30m. Easy scrambling leads up to the base of a slab split by a jamming crack.
10) 4+, 25m. Climb the hand-crack up the slab by jamming and laybacking, to a good ledge under a large bulge in the ridge.
11) 4+, 35m. Traverse right across a big flake (and move slightly downwards) then leave the flake. Traverse right across a short wall into a chimney. Climb straight up the chimney to regain the ridge crest.
12) 2, 175m. Follow the slabby ridge (tricky at the start), then scramble up the ridge to a gap which requires a jump to cross. Continue more easily to the summit.
Descent - Use the standard South Face Route back over the Vågakallen - Kvanndalstinden col, then down to the Djupfjorden parking spot at the fjord entrance where your chariot awaits. © ROCKFAX
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