505m, 12 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Start on the right of the col, at the base of a small groove.
1) 4, 20m. Climb the groove up to a belay.
2-3) 80m. Grade 2 to 3 scrambling leads around the corner to the left, then up the ridge for 2 rope lengths.
4) 3, 45m. Move around a loose corner on the left and climb mossy blocks to the Lunch Ledge below a prominent vertical chimney.
5) 4+, 25m. Climb the chimney past several chockstones. Go through a tunnel on the right, then back left to a belay. Wet near the top.
6) 3+, 20m. Head up a short wall then move right around a corner to a belay near the bottom of a gully.
7) 3, 20m. Climb straight up the ridge, staying to the left of the gully, to blocks and a belay.
8) 4-, 30m. Follow the ridge and climb up a shallow corner.
9) 2, 30m. Easy scrambling leads up to the base of a slab split by a jamming crack.
10) 4+, 25m. Climb the crack up the slab by jamming and laybacking, to a good ledge under a large bulge in the ridge.
11) 4+, 35m. Traverse right across a big flake (and move slightly downwards) then leave the flake. Traverse right across a short wall into a chimney. Climb straight up the chimney to regain the ridge crest.
12) 2, 175m. Follow the slabby ridge (tricky at the start), then scramble up the ridge to a gap which requires a jump to cross. Continue more easily to the summit.
Descent - Use the standard south face route Sydveggen (page 301) back over the Vågakallen/Kvanndalstinden col, then down to the Djupfjorden parking spot at the fjord entrance where your chariot awaits. © Rockfax

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Lofoten Rock Top 50.

Clay C 26/Aug AltLd O/S
with George, Ross
67hours 26/Aug AltLd O/S

I led the second half, including the off-route short steep crack in region of P7/8, and the long layback/jamming crack. The compulsary, unavoidable jump is really something!

Hidden 26/Aug 2nd O/S
alexm198 22/Aug AltLd O/S

Linked up with Småkallenryggen for a huge day out. Quality of the rock and the climbing improved dramatically here. Moved together for the whole thing. Very straightforward. Took 1h45.

Matt Harle 22/Aug AltLd O/S
M.Hallen 04/Aug -

Beautiful trip. Went up the left hand side of the ridge on first pitch the pass two other teams that were taking long time on gearing up. Simul-climbed up to lunch ledge. Messed up something on the 7&8 pitch. Went up a steep short wall that felt much harder than 4- (maybe 5). Had to wait before the crack pitch for maybe 2 hours. P11 is kind of a bottleneck.

with Carolina, Jarl
dan_o_b 04/Aug AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Aug 2nd O/S
bridget143 21/Jul AltLd O/S

The walk in along Djupfjord was the best bit, to camp on the beach at the end of the inner lake would be idyllic. We had amazing views and sunshine all day and it was a good job we had midnight sun as this route takes some time unless you are willing to simul-climb. Led some of the easier pitches. The chimney was great fun and the jamming crack was on nice rock but the rest was nothing to write home about. Abesiled and easily climbed out of the gap (in-situ slings). The descent is very arduous especially only 2 months after knee surgery (5 hrs), used the rope across friction slabs but there were several steep scree sections which some people have abesiled and a very steep gully to down climb after the traverse with loose rock. A day to remember!!

with Simen
jonnie3430 07/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Pete
Peter Reynolds ?/Jun/15 Lead
Hidden 26/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
ferdia 26/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Lyndsey, Clare Muir
chrisdevon 13/Jun/13 2nd
James Oswald ?/Jun/13 Lead dnf

Walked into this route after getting up at 4:30 in the morning to make sure there was time to pack after. After getting to the base of the route I was too cold and wet so decided to back off and walk back to Henningsvaer via Djupford.

with Ferdia, Lindsay, Clare Erskine
Hidden ?/Jun/13 Lead
RM199 21/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Steven Andrews 20/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Fantastic positions and worth it just for the view but the climbing is good in places and passes through some great rock......and to top it off there is a jump accross an abyss. Lofoten's Tower Ridge. Oh yes, and then there is the descent!

with Delphine
Conan 16/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Nice mountaineering route. Lots of scrambling with a few climbing pitches on mostly solid rock. Jumping the gap was quite scary. Combined with the descent of the normal route made for a superb day out. Well worth the 3 stars

with Paul Farish
Hidden 11/Jun/11 Lead
Hidden 02/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/10 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Roch 26/Jul/09 AltLd
with MRT
Hidden 08/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Joris.Roulleau ?/Jul/09 Lead

2 or 3 good pitches and the fancy jump at the end. and fabulous views. Apart from that, not much fun really, the shitiest rock ever. Not really worth it. I recommend the walk up Vagakallen instead

dan gibson 21/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

No gap to jump, a lot of snow instead.

with helen gibson
eivindf ??/2009 Solo O/S
Tarquin ??/2009 -
Hidden 12/Jul/08 -
biggianthead 08/Jul/08 -
with T
alan moore ?/Jul/05 -

Big honeymoon ramble. Mostly scrambling on dirt: big chimney was novel, as was the one pitch of climbing. Spectacular jump at the top and sunset on summit. Down at 1 am.

Steve Lenartowicz ?/Jul/04 Lead
with Clare
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