505m, 12 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Start on the right of the col, at the base of a small groove.
1) 4, 20m. Climb the groove up to a belay.
2-3) 80m. Grade 2 to 3 scrambling leads around the corner to the left, then up the ridge for 2 rope lengths.
4) 3, 45m. Move around a loose corner on the left and climb mossy blocks to the Lunch Ledge below a prominent vertical chimney.
5) 4+, 25m. Climb the chimney past several chockstones. Go through a tunnel on the right, then back left to a belay. Wet near the top.
6) 3+, 20m. Head up a short wall then move right around a corner to a belay near the bottom of a gully.
7) 3, 20m. Climb straight up the ridge, staying to the left of the gully, to blocks and a belay.
8) 4-, 30m. Follow the ridge and climb up a shallow corner.
9) 2, 30m. Easy scrambling leads up to the base of a slab split by a jamming crack.
10) 4+, 25m. Climb the crack up the slab by jamming and laybacking, to a good ledge under a large bulge in the ridge.
11) 4+, 35m. Traverse right across a big flake (and move slightly downwards) then leave the flake. Traverse right across a short wall into a chimney. Climb straight up the chimney to regain the ridge crest.
12) 2, 175m. Follow the slabby ridge (tricky at the start), then scramble up the ridge to a gap which requires a jump to cross. Continue more easily to the summit.
Descent - Use the standard south face route Sydveggen (page 301) back over the Vågakallen/Kvanndalstinden col, then down to the Djupfjorden parking spot at the fjord entrance where your chariot awaits. © Rockfax

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Lofoten Rock Top 50.

jonnie3430 07/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Pete
Peter Reynolds ?/Jun/15 Lead
Hidden 26/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
ferdia 26/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Lyndsey, Clare Muir
chrisdevon 13/Jun/13 2nd
James Oswald ?/Jun/13 Lead dnf

Walked into this route after getting up at 4:30 in the morning to make sure there was time to pack after. After getting to the base of the route I was too cold and wet so decided to back off and walk back to Henningsvaer via Djupford.

with Ferdia, Lindsay, Clare Erskine
Hidden ?/Jun/13 Lead
RM199 21/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Steven Andrews 20/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Fantastic positions and worth it just for the view but the climbing is good in places and passes through some great rock......and to top it off there is a jump accross an abyss. Lofoten's Tower Ridge. Oh yes, and then there is the descent!

with Delphine
Conan 16/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Nice mountaineering route. Lots of scrambling with a few climbing pitches on mostly solid rock. Jumping the gap was quite scary. Combined with the descent of the normal route made for a superb day out. Well worth the 3 stars

with Paul Farish
Hidden 11/Jun/11 Lead
Hidden 02/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/10 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Roch 26/Jul/09 AltLd
with MRT
Hidden 08/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Joris.Roulleau ?/Jul/09 Lead

2 or 3 good pitches and the fancy jump at the end. and fabulous views. Apart from that, not much fun really, the shitiest rock ever. Not really worth it. I recommend the walk up Vagakallen instead

dan gibson 21/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

No gap to jump, a lot of snow instead.

with helen gibson
eivindf ??/2009 Solo O/S
Tarquin ??/2009 -
Hidden 12/Jul/08 -
biggianthead 08/Jul/08 -

VS jump across the final gap plus at least one pitch of 4c

with T
Steve Lenartowicz ?/Jul/04 Lead
with Clare
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Timothy Miller, Hidden, poeter210, Batt
High n5-
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High n4+
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