Pianohandler Lunds rute*** n4+
100m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Nice climbing with commodious stances. Start by the twin telegraph poles, below the prominent left-slanting corner.

1) 4, 35m. Climb the corner then slabs and a short steepening to a big ledge on the right.
2) 4+, 20m. Climb up cracks on the right then smear up a slab to reach the right end of the hand-traverse. Up this to another big ledge with assorted belays.
3) 4+, 20m. Traverse right along a fault and climb through a bulge to gain a steep groove. Go up this and a short jamming crack above to a good ledge. A great pitch.
4) 4+, 10m. Climb the short awkward crack (at least 5 if you can't jam) to a big ledge system below the final tier.
5) 4+, 20m. Climb the centre of the face to bulges then head up and left to thin cracks which give a good finale. The awkward finger and hand-crack on the left gives an alternative finish - 4+. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
Popular four pitch route with easy climbing, good protection and walking descent. Not sure about the UK grade though. HS 4b


Arild Meyer, Kjell Skog, Ulf Prytz 1971
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 115 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Bøllekrøll - 2nd - 20/Aug/15

Paul Figg - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/15 with Rachel Antill

rpinto - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/15

tomdude - Lead O/S - Jul/15 with marie

Led pitches 2 and 4. Climbed alongside about twenty members of the Norwegian army half of which were already on the climb when we arrived. There was enough room on the route to pass them and not interrupt the "tight schedule" the Sergeant was on. A nice route but a little disjointed in places. After finishing we went for tea in Henningsvaer the walked along Djupfjord to look at bare blabaer. By the time we left the army hadn't cleared pitch 1....
MD - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/15 with Jo

Tried previous day but abandoned after p1 due to v slow novice groups and torrential rain. Was choked with another big group of beginners today but squeezed through. Unless you get to it first expect long waits. Interesting 'hands off' approach by guides means beginners clog this route up for hours most days.
Happy Wanderer - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/15 with Mike D

& Bernhard. Climbed in the showery rain and cold wind in desperation, waiting for the weather to improve. Still, it was better than looking for puffins in the guidebook...
Dave Rumney - AltLd - 11/Jun/15 with Tanya Milner

JdotP - AltLd O/S - Jun/15 with Crazy Dave

Hidden - Lead - Jun/15

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 29/Jul/14

Arms were dead by the end, struggled on the jamming section but still the hardest route I've (sort of) climbed to date.
alisonlea75 - 2nd dog - 17/Jul/14 with Stu

Hidden - Lead - 17/Jul/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/14

John Nuttall - Lead - 15/Jun/14 with Sharon

ERU - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/13 with Chloe Whittall

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/13

In the wet. Led pitches 1, 3.
cameron_hall - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/13 with Aeron Buchanan

chrisallan - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/13 with Jacob Davies

Obscenely overcrowded, 2 teams, four people per rope etc, plus more. This is perhaps one to climb at night when everyone has gone home. Lead pitches 2,3,5, regretted not carrying a belay jacket for the long periods of time spent on ledges, squats seemed to be a suitable alternative. Climbing is broken but enjoyable, at around HVD.
Merlin - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/13 with Dave Tait

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/13

ferdia - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/13 with Lyndsey, Rozzy

Boring stuff really.
chrisdevon - 2nd - 11/Jun/13

Lead the even pitches I think. The upper pitches are awesome, quite tough for HS. Ace
James Oswald - AltLd O/S - Jun/13 with Clare Erskine

AliMackenzie - AltLd - 09/May/13 with Ken

Hidden - 2013

Bit broken but a fine climb and a good one to help Delphine in to trad multi-pitch.
Steven Andrews - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/12 with Delphine

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead - 06/Aug/12

mtempest - AltLd - 22/Jul/12 with Dan Lane

P1 and 3+4. Very disjointed climbing but a nice way to finish the trip nontheless.
Dan Lane - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/12 with Mike Tempest

cymjt - Jul/12

Led P2+5. A nice Little outing.
victim of mathematics - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/12 with Claire, Simon

climbingpixie - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/12 with Andy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/12

Really nice climb but lots of teams.
Zoomer - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/12 with Ash Sleight

I led pitches 2, 4 and 5. Struggled a bit on the crux pitch by not using feet. Really nice route
ashsleight - AltLd RP - 22/Jun/12 with Glen bloomer

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/12

marcusmarcus1 - AltLd - 19/Jun/12 with Nev Smith

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 10/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Jun/12

Enjoyable wee outing in the sun. Can see it is popular with the climbing school and clubs as it is polished but still good fun to do.
Gibson27 - AltLd O/S - Jun/12

Maria Lasonen-Aarnio - Lead O/S - 26/May/12 with Ville

chris_B - AltLd - 18/Jul/11 with Louise Atkin

louby - AltLd - 18/Jul/11 with Chris Burn

Led first 4 pitches and Sam finished the last one off. Pitch 3 by far the best. Brilliant sunny Lofoten day. Sweet.
mrmattwright - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/11 with Sam Mould

Conan - AltLd - 11/Jul/11 with Ian Bradley, Ken Taylor

Ken Taylor - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/11 with Ian Bradley, Conan Harrod

Hidden - Lead rpt - 09/Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 03/Jul/11

JenDurden - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/11 with Max

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead - 10/Jun/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/11

Danhan - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/10 with Mostyn

bridget143 - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/10 with Toby Dunford

tobydunford - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/10 with Bridget Hall

Andrew1 - Solo - 01/Aug/10 with Hulda

Hidden - Solo - 01/Aug/10

mattcyp88 - Lead - 15/Jul/10 with Ian

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 12/Jul/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/10

led p3. still slightly damp.
Pete Nugent - AltLd - 18/Jun/10 with Chris Vernon

Led p 1-2 & 4-5
cem - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/10 with Dave Amos

Hidden - 2010

led pitches 1,2,4,5
Dr Caterpillar - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/09 with Alan Sage

joeydurkin - Lead - 10/Aug/09 with Dave Gleave

joeydurkin - 2nd - 03/Aug/09

Led pitches 1,2,4,& 5, also with Patch
John Roe - AltLd - 02/Aug/09 with Rad Hughes

Graham Westbrook - AltLd - Aug/09

Theeni - AltLd O/S - Aug/09 with Matt Kemp

HIGHTOWER - AltLd β - 24/Jul/09 with Paul Rochford

richardlong78 - Lead - 19/Jul/09 with Martin Coleman

Andy Chubb - AltLd - 15/Jul/09 with Guy Hustinx

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/09

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Jul/09

The tricky move is at the top of the 3rd pitch, not the start of the 4th.
manwithacam - Lead - 06/Jul/09 with Sarah

not such a good route indeed. A random patchwork of a few cracks and grooves
Joris.Roulleau - Lead - Jul/09 with Libby Blundell

Roch - AltLd - Jul/09 with MRT

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/09

Drapes - 2nd - 25/Jun/09 with Thorbjørn Enevold

tuukka - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/09 with Juha

cali1001 - AltLd O/S - Jun/09 with jocke

Hidden - 2009

Led P3&4
Different Steve - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/08 with Carol Fowles

Claire S-J - Lead - Aug/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/08

Led p3 and p5
tjkk - AltLd β - 19/Jul/08

Henrik - AltLd O/S - Jul/08 with Antonia + Rasse

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/08

biggianthead - 29/Jun/08 with T

Hidden - Solo O/S - 11/Aug/07

Hidden - Lead β - 07/Jul/07

Hidden - Lead dog - 02/Jul/07

Elsier - 2nd O/S - Jul/07 with Stuart

mattpw - AltLd O/S - Jul/07 with Juha Kaupilla

Whitt - 2nd O/S - Jun/07 with Luke, Ian

Luuuuuke - 2nd O/S - Jun/07 with ian, whitt

RAK - AltLd - 19/Jul/06 with Lauri

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/06

steev - AltLd O/S - Jun/06 with Duncan & Katie

decs - AltLd O/S - Jun/06 with Steve

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/06

dave o - AltLd O/S - Jun/06 with Julia H

Definitely only HS (4a/4b), not such a good route.
Jody - AltLd O/S - May/05 with Erik and Andres

Bad Mongo - AltLd - 2005

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/04

Steve Lenartowicz - Lead - Jul/04 with Clare

frotveit - AltLd - 17/Jul/03

Spectacular free 50m abseil descent into the bargain, and the fjord was an outrageous turquoise just in case it wasn't all enjoyable enough already.
chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/03 with Clare Wilkie

agtoni - AltLd - 2003 with Toni L

TobyA - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/98 with Elina

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:

Voting
Total votes cast 30
hard n5-0 of 9
n5-0 of 9
easy n5-0 of 9
hard n4+0 of 9
n4+6 of 9
easy n4+3 of 9
hard n40 of 9
n40 of 9
easy n40 of 9
3 Stars7 of 21
2 Stars8 of 21
1 Star6 of 21
0 Stars0 of 21
Bag of .....0 of 21
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