100m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Nice climbing with commodious stances. Start by the twin telegraph poles, below the prominent left-slanting corner.

1) 4, 35m. Climb the corner then slabs and a short steepening to a big ledge on the right.
2) 4+, 20m. Climb up cracks on the right then smear up a slab to reach the right end of the hand-traverse. Up this to another big ledge with assorted belays.
3) 4+, 20m. Traverse right along a fault and climb through a bulge to gain a steep groove. Go up this and a short jamming crack above to a good ledge. A great pitch.
4) 4+, 10m. Climb the short awkward crack (at least 5 if you can't jam) to a big ledge system below the final tier.
5) 4+, 20m. Climb the centre of the face to bulges then head up and left to thin cracks which give a good finale. The awkward finger and hand-crack on the left gives an alternative finish - 4+. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Popular four pitch route with easy climbing, good protection and walking descent. Not sure about the UK grade though. HS 4b

Arild Meyer, Kjell Skog, Ulf Prytz 1971

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Lofoten Rock Top 50.


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 08/Aug AltLd O/S
dan_o_b 08/Aug AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Aug AltLd O/S
s.scott 23/Jul 2nd
with Jim
lyneux 23/Jul Lead O/S
Tasermiut 23/Jul 2nd O/S
Jim-Roberts-1987 23/Jul Lead O/S
payney1973 22/Jul Lead β
leemagowan 20/Jul Lead O/S

2 X seconds, many climbers, abseil off

bridget143 15/Jul AltLd rpt

Led P2. Backed off P4.

with Simen
Chris Craggs 17/Jun AltLd

10 years since we last did the route - it is getting harder! And we had the crag to ourselves!

with Colin Binks
Hidden 16/Jun AltLd
Hidden 15/Jun AltLd
Hidden 15/Jun AltLd O/S
Matt1234 10/Jun Lead O/S
feefifan 15/Mar -
J_Jansen ?/Dec/15 AltLd O/S

If you're there in June or July you might as well forget about it. It will be obscenely crowded. Okay climbing, but if you're comfortable stepping up a grade there is a lot better (and less crowded) climbs within spitting distance.

Bøllekrøll 20/Aug/15 2nd
efehr 02/Aug/15 AltLd rpt
with Per Brox
efehr 31/Jul/15 AltLd rpt
with Trine Gåsland Rekve
Paul Figg 23/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Rachel Antill
rpinto 12/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
tomdude ?/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with marie
MD 17/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 2 and 4. Climbed alongside about twenty members of the Norwegian army half of which were already on the climb when we arrived. There was enough room on the route to pass them and not interrupt the "tight schedule" the Sergeant was on. A nice route but a little disjointed in places. After finishing we went for tea in Henningsvaer the walked along Djupfjord to look at bare blabaer. By the time we left the army hadn't cleared pitch 1....

with Jo
Happy Wanderer 17/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Tried previous day but abandoned after p1 due to v slow novice groups and torrential rain. Was choked with another big group of beginners today but squeezed through. Unless you get to it first expect long waits. Interesting 'hands off' approach by guides means beginners clog this route up for hours most days.

with Mike D
Dave Rumney 11/Jun/15 AltLd

& Bernhard. Climbed in the showery rain and cold wind in desperation, waiting for the weather to improve. Still, it was better than looking for puffins in the guidebook...

with Tanya Milner
JdotP ?/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Crazy Dave
Hidden ?/Jun/15 Lead
Hidden 29/Jul/14 AltLd rpt
alisonlea75 17/Jul/14 2nd dog

Arms were dead by the end, struggled on the jamming section but still the hardest route I've (sort of) climbed to date.

with Stu
Hidden 17/Jul/14 Lead
efehr 15/Jul/14 2nd β
with Erik Johnsen, Petter Finstad, Kursintruktør
Hidden 08/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
John Nuttall 15/Jun/14 Lead
with Sharon
duncana 30/Aug/13 AltLd

Good warm up route. I went astray and fourth pitch so we missed the last 5th pitch out

with Pippa Archer
Hidden 16/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
cameron_hall 21/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

In the wet. Led pitches 1, 3.

with Aeron Buchanan
chrisallan 21/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with Jacob Davies
Merlin 10/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Obscenely overcrowded, 2 teams, four people per rope etc, plus more. This is perhaps one to climb at night when everyone has gone home. Lead pitches 2,3,5, regretted not carrying a belay jacket for the long periods of time spent on ledges, squats seemed to be a suitable alternative. Climbing is broken but enjoyable, at around HVD.

with Dave Tait
Hidden 09/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/13 AltLd
ferdia 20/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Lyndsey, Rozzy
pbb081079 14/Jun/13 Lead
chrisdevon 11/Jun/13 2nd

Boring stuff really.

James Oswald ?/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Lead the even pitches I think. The upper pitches are awesome, quite tough for HS. Ace

with Clare Erskine
AliMackenzie 09/May/13 AltLd
with Ken
Hidden ??/2013 -
Steven Andrews 17/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Bit broken but a fine climb and a good one to help Delphine in to trad multi-pitch.

with Delphine
RM199 16/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/12 Lead
mtempest 22/Jul/12 AltLd
Dan Lane 22/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

P1 and 3+4. Very disjointed climbing but a nice way to finish the trip nontheless.

cymjt ?/Jul/12 -
Hidden ?/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
victim of mathematics 25/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Led P2+5. A nice Little outing.

climbingpixie 25/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with Andy
Hidden 25/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Leelogs 25/Jun/12 AltLd
Zoomer 22/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Really nice climb but lots of teams.

ashsleight 22/Jun/12 AltLd RP

I led pitches 2, 4 and 5. Struggled a bit on the crux pitch by not using feet. Really nice route

Hidden 22/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
marcusmarcus1 19/Jun/12 AltLd
with Nev Smith
Hidden 10/Jun/12 AltLd rpt
Hidden 10/Jun/12 AltLd
Gibson27 ?/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Enjoyable wee outing in the sun. Can see it is popular with the climbing school and clubs as it is polished but still good fun to do.

Maria Lasonen-Aarnio 26/May/12 Lead O/S
with Ville
chris_B 18/Jul/11 AltLd
louby 18/Jul/11 AltLd
mrmattwright 15/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Led first 4 pitches and Sam finished the last one off. Pitch 3 by far the best. Brilliant sunny Lofoten day. Sweet.

with Sam Mould
Conan 11/Jul/11 AltLd
with Ian Bradley, Ken Taylor
Ken Taylor 11/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Ian Bradley, Conan Harrod
Hidden 09/Jul/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 09/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden 03/Jul/11 AltLd rpt
JenDurden 10/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with Max
Hidden 10/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/11 Lead
Hidden 10/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Danhan 09/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Mostyn
bridget143 04/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
tobydunford 04/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Andrew1 01/Aug/10 Solo
with Hulda
Hulda 01/Aug/10 Solo
with Andi
csab1978 01/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Repeat ascent for Ole Christian. Easy as pie.

with Arild Wifladt, Ole Christian Fredrikson
mattcyp88 15/Jul/10 Lead
with Ian
Hidden 12/Jul/10 AltLd rpt
Hidden ?/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Pete Nugent 18/Jun/10 AltLd

led p3. still slightly damp.

with Chris Vernon
cem 18/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Led p 1-2 & 4-5

with Dave Amos
Hidden ??/2010 -
Dr Caterpillar 20/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

led pitches 1,2,4,5

joeydurkin 10/Aug/09 Lead
with Dave Gleave
joeydurkin 03/Aug/09 2nd
John Roe 02/Aug/09 AltLd

Led pitches 1,2,4,& 5, also with Patch

with Rad Hughes
Hidden 02/Aug/09 AltLd
Graham Westbrook ?/Aug/09 AltLd
Theeni ?/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with Matt Kemp
HIGHTOWER 24/Jul/09 AltLd β
with Paul Rochford
richardlong78 19/Jul/09 Lead
with Martin Coleman
Andy Chubb 15/Jul/09 AltLd
with Guy Hustinx
Hidden 08/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Jul/09 2nd
manwithacam 06/Jul/09 Lead

The tricky move is at the top of the 3rd pitch, not the start of the 4th.

with Sarah
Joris.Roulleau ?/Jul/09 Lead

not such a good route indeed. A random patchwork of a few cracks and grooves

Roch ?/Jul/09 AltLd
with MRT
Hidden 30/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Drapes 25/Jun/09 2nd
with Thorbjørn Enevold
tuukka 12/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Juha
cali1001 ?/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with jocke
Tarquin ??/2009 -
Different Steve 04/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

Led P3&4

with Carol Fowles
Claire S-J ?/Aug/08 Lead
Hidden 22/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/08 AltLd
tjkk 19/Jul/08 AltLd β

Led p3 and p5

Henrik ?/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with Antonia + Rasse
Hidden ?/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
biggianthead 29/Jun/08 -
with T
Hidden 11/Aug/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/07 Lead β
Hidden 02/Jul/07 Lead dog
Elsier ?/Jul/07 2nd O/S
with Stuart
mattpw ?/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
with Juha Kaupilla
Whitt ?/Jun/07 2nd O/S
with Luke, Ian
Luuuuuke ?/Jun/07 2nd O/S
with ian, whitt
RAK 19/Jul/06 AltLd
with Lauri
Hidden ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
steev ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with Duncan & Katie
decs ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with Steve
Hidden ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
dave o ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with Julia H
alan moore ?/Jul/05 -

Lazy and on honeymoon we queued for several days behind a thousand backpacking Locals for this one star severe.

Jody ?/May/05 AltLd O/S

Definitely only HS (4a/4b), not such a good route.

with Erik and Andres
Bad Mongo ??/2005 AltLd
Chris Craggs ?/Aug/04 -

1st route on Lofoten for me - and Sherri

with Sherri Davy
Hidden ?/Jul/04 Lead O/S
Steve Lenartowicz ?/Jul/04 Lead
with Clare
frotveit 17/Jul/03 AltLd
chrishedgehog 09/Jul/03 Lead O/S

Spectacular free 50m abseil descent into the bargain, and the fjord was an outrageous turquoise just in case it wasn't all enjoyable enough already.

with Clare Wilkie
agtoni ??/2003 AltLd
with Toni L
TobyA 05/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with Elina
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Voting
High n5-
Mid n5-
Low n5-
High n4+
Mid n4+
Low n4+
High n4
Mid n4
Low n4
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 24
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set