Lofoten > Pianokrakken >
 
Pianohandler Lunds rute*** n4+

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100m, 5 pitches. Nice climbing with commodious stances. Start by the twin telegraph poles, below the prominent left-slanting groove. 1) 4, 35m. Climb the corner then slabs and a short steepening to a big ledge on the right. The steep cracks 10m to the right give a harder but rarely repeated variation start (6). 2) 4+, 20m. Climb up cracks on the right then smear up a slab to reach the right end of the hand-traverse. Up this to another big ledge with assorted belays. 3) 4+, 20m. Traverse right along a fault and climb through a bulge to gain a steep groove. Go up this and a short jamming crack above to a good ledge. A great pitch. 4) 4+, 10m. Climb the short awkward crack (crux - at least 5 if you can't jam) to a big ledge system below the final tier. 5) 4+, 20m. Climb the centre of the face to bulges then head up and left to thin cracks which give a good finale. The awkward finger and hand-crack on the left gives an alternative finish - 4+. FA. Arild Meyer, Kjell Skog, Ulf Prytz made the first ascent of Lofotenís most popular easy route in 1971 whilst looking for routes for students from the Nord Norsk Klatreskole. The route name, suggested by one of the students, honours a popular comic character from an early 70s radio show. FA. (Variation to Pitch 1) Knut Storvik, Andreas Christiansen 1999 © ROCKFAX
Popular four pitch route with easy climbing, good protection and walking descent. Not sure about the UK grade though. HS 4b
Arild Meyer, Kjell Skog, Ulf Prytz 1971
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 103 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 29/Jul/14

Arms were dead by the end, struggled on the jamming section but still the hardest route I've (sort of) climbed to date.
alisonlea75 - 2nd dog - 17/Jul/14 with Stu

Hidden - Lead - 17/Jul/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/14

John Nuttall - Lead - 15/Jun/14 with Sharon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/13

In the wet. Led pitches 1, 3.
cameron_hall - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/13 with Aeron Buchanan

chrisallan - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/13 with Jacob Davies

Obscenely overcrowded, 2 teams, four people per rope etc, plus more. This is perhaps one to climb at night when everyone has gone home. Lead pitches 2,3,5, regretted not carrying a belay jacket for the long periods of time spent on ledges, squats seemed to be a suitable alternative. Climbing is broken but enjoyable, at around HVD.
Merlin - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/13 with Dave Tait

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/13

ferdia - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/13 with Lyndsey, Rozzy

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Jun/13

Lead the even pitches I think. The upper pitches are awesome, quite tough for HS. Ace
James Oswald - AltLd O/S - Jun/13 with Clare Erskine

AliMackenzie - AltLd - 09/May/13 with Ken

Hidden - 2013

Bit broken but a fine climb and a good one to help Delphine in to trad multi-pitch.
Steven Andrews - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/12 with Delphine

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead - 06/Aug/12

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Jul/12

P1 and 3+4. Very disjointed climbing but a nice way to finish the trip nontheless.
Dan Lane - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/12 with Mike Tempest

Led P2+5. A nice Little outing.
victim of mathematics - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/12 with Claire, Simon

climbingpixie - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/12 with Andy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/12

Really nice climb but lots of teams.
Zoomer - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/12 with Ash Sleight

I led pitches 2, 4 and 5. Struggled a bit on the crux pitch by not using feet. Really nice route
ashsleight - AltLd RP - 22/Jun/12 with Glen bloomer

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/12

marcusmarcus1 - AltLd - 19/Jun/12 with Nev Smith

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 10/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Jun/12

Enjoyable wee outing in the sun. Can see it is popular with the climbing school and clubs as it is polished but still good fun to do.
Gibson27 - AltLd O/S - Jun/12

Maria Lasonen-Aarnio - Lead O/S - 26/May/12 with Ville

chris_B - AltLd - 18/Jul/11 with Lou Atkin

Led first 4 pitches and Sam finished the last one off. Pitch 3 by far the best. Brilliant sunny Lofoten day. Sweet.
mrmattwright - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/11 with Sam Mould

Conan - AltLd - 11/Jul/11 with Ian Bradley, Ken Taylor

Ken Taylor - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/11 with Ian Bradley, Conan Harrod

Hidden - Lead rpt - 09/Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 03/Jul/11

JenDurden - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/11 with Max

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead - 10/Jun/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/11

Danhan - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/10 with Mostyn

bridget143 - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/10 with Toby Dunford

tobydunford - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/10 with Bridget Hall

Andrew1 - Solo - 01/Aug/10 with Hulda

Hidden - Solo - 01/Aug/10

mattcyp88 - Lead - 15/Jul/10 with Ian

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 12/Jul/10

sonnenstern - AltLd O/S - Jul/10 with Rachel

led p3. still slightly damp.
Pete Nugent - AltLd - 18/Jun/10 with Chris Vernon

Led p 1-2 & 4-5
cem - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/10 with Dave Amos

Hidden - 2010

led pitches 1,2,4,5
Dr Caterpillar - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/09 with Alan Sage

joeydurkin - Lead - 10/Aug/09 with Dave Gleave

joeydurkin - 2nd - 03/Aug/09

Led pitches 1,2,4,& 5, also with Patch
John Roe - AltLd - 02/Aug/09 with Rad Hughes

Graham Westbrook - AltLd - Aug/09

Theeni - AltLd O/S - Aug/09 with Matt Kemp

HIGHTOWER - AltLd β - 24/Jul/09 with Paul Rochford

richardlong78 - Lead - 19/Jul/09 with Martin Coleman

Andy Chubb - AltLd - 15/Jul/09 with Guy Hustinx

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/09

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Jul/09

The tricky move is at the top of the 3rd pitch, not the start of the 4th.
manwithacam - Lead - 06/Jul/09 with Sarah

not such a good route indeed. A random patchwork of a few cracks and grooves
Joris.Roulleau - Lead - Jul/09 with Libby Blundell

Roch - AltLd - Jul/09 with MRT

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/09

Drapes - 2nd - 25/Jun/09 with Thorbjørn Enevold

tuukka - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/09 with Juha

cali1001 - AltLd O/S - Jun/09 with jocke

Tarquin - 2009

Led P3&4
Different Steve - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/08 with Carol Fowles

Claire S-J - Lead - Aug/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/08

Led p3 and p5
tjkk - AltLd β - 19/Jul/08

Henrik - AltLd O/S - Jul/08 with Antonia + Rasse

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/08

biggianthead - 29/Jun/08 with T

Hidden - Solo O/S - 11/Aug/07

Hidden - Lead β - 07/Jul/07

Hidden - Lead dog - 02/Jul/07

Elsier - 2nd O/S - Jul/07 with Stuart

mattpw - AltLd O/S - Jul/07 with Juha Kaupilla

Whitt - 2nd O/S - Jun/07 with Luke, Ian

Luuuuuke - 2nd O/S - Jun/07 with ian, whitt

RAK - AltLd - 19/Jul/06 with Lauri

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/06

steev - AltLd O/S - Jun/06 with Duncan & Katie

decs - AltLd O/S - Jun/06 with Steve

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/06

dave o - AltLd O/S - Jun/06 with Julia H

Definitely only HS (4a/4b), not such a good route.
Jody - AltLd O/S - May/05 with Erik and Andres

Bad Mongo - AltLd - 2005

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/04

frotveit - AltLd - 17/Jul/03

Spectacular free 50m abseil descent into the bargain, and the fjord was an outrageous turquoise just in case it wasn't all enjoyable enough already.
chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/03 with Clare Wilkie

agtoni - AltLd - 2003 with Toni L

TobyA - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/98 with Elina

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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Voting
Total votes cast 29
hard n5-0 of 9
n5-0 of 9
easy n5-0 of 9
hard n4+0 of 9
n4+6 of 9
easy n4+3 of 9
hard n40 of 9
n40 of 9
easy n40 of 9
3 Stars7 of 20
2 Stars7 of 20
1 Star6 of 20
0 Stars0 of 20
Bag of .....0 of 20
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Style of ascent

Soloed3 of 103 (2.9%)
Lead23 of 103 (22.3%)
Followed9 of 103 (8.7%)
Alt Leads64 of 103 (62.1%)
Unknown4 of 103 (3.9%)

'Climbed'37 of 103 (35.9%)
clean O/S55 of 103 (53.4%)
clean β3 of 103 (2.9%)
clean rpt5 of 103 (4.9%)
clean RP1 of 103 (1.0%)
dogged2 of 103 (1.9%)