Rockfax Description
A totally committing layback up the left side of the superb arete. Side-runners should be avoided at all costs. From the starting block, take a deep breath, and sprint for the midway break. Thankfully things are easier above. © Rockfax

FA. Ed Drummond 1972

Ticklists: Top 20 Gritstone UKC Wishlist Climbs, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day, World Graded List, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Peak Rock/11/Gritstone in the Seventies., Ultimate E3 ticklist, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, 50 of the Best.

FlavioL1989 12/Jul Lead O/S

Wanted to climb it , then hesitated. Mike appeared from nowhere and said its easier than Crescent Arete. Hardest part was persuading the belayer. No pads, so full E3 please.

rajeshwarbisht 12/Jul 2nd dnf
with Flavio
Hidden 21/Jun TR
Louishmouis 23/May Solo G/U
harry_lewis 23/May Solo O/S

Above pads

with Matt, Yumeya
Dr Toph 24/Apr Solo G/U

Nice to come back to this after a year or so and feel solid. Found myself above the point of no retreat so just pushed on...

with Emily
Canyak ??/2015 -
bencoope 25/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Oct/14 Solo
MoWalker3 29/Jun/14 TR dnf
spidermonkey09 16/Feb/14 Sent O/S

Incredible. Couple of pads so not E3 but felt worthy of a couple of E's at the top! Technically easier than Crescent Arete but psychologically a lot harder. Turn off the brain, don't look down and keep going.

TRFrost 16/Feb/14 Sent
with J. Hulbert
mike mo ??/2014 2nd
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
hilty 28/Dec/13 Solo β
joese7en 17/Dec/13 Solo dnf

Ankle bye bye

Matt Cooke 30/Nov/13 Lead β
with Scott, Sam Taylor
JamesTurnbull97 06/Oct/13 Lead RP

Side runner, fell first time

DavidPC 28/Aug/13 TR dnf

Tried for fun and to see what sort of standard would need to be to lead it. Confirmed my belief that i cant layback.

rurp 25/Jun/13 TR O/S

Just keep going!

Graeme Hammond 31/May/13 Lead rpt

F**k YES, I'm back and no snow or mats this time for the pure tick. For my next trick...

with Cleo
Dibdawg 28/Apr/13 Solo

Blew the on-sight falling at 5m's... quick change of shoes and a windy top out, happy dayz!

ellis 10/Apr/13 Sent

snow, previously bailed off more rounded bit onto pad out L

with Tom Holdsworth, Dave Musgrove
Cake 09/Apr/13 Sent O/S

Snowball. Technically easier than Crescent Arete i think

with Matt
CharlieMack 09/Apr/13 Solo O/S
with Matt
Harry Chaplin 09/Apr/13 Solo O/S


samt 09/Apr/13 Sent

Snowballed and topped out

Hidden 08/Apr/13 Solo RP
Gus 07/Apr/13 Solo O/S

above snow so not really E3

mark20 07/Apr/13 Solo O/S
Andrew Jennings 07/Apr/13 Sent rpt


with Maria Jeffery, Lindy Smith, Si Wilson, Brian McAlinden
Obi-Wan is lost... 07/Apr/13 Solo

...with the help of a pad on the snow platform. Still felt high, really pleased to get it ticked.

liamoloughlin 07/Apr/13 Solo O/S


Duncan Disorderly 07/Apr/13 Sent

Snowball... Watched a mate fall from near the break and twat himself pretty badly 10 years before so was nice to do it in relative safety.

Brown 06/Apr/13 Solo

Above a snowdrift. The decent from the cliff top in rockshoes was harrowing. The next time I went down Don.

with Solo
Hidden 06/Apr/13 Sent O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/13 Sent O/S
Laurence Everitt 06/Apr/13 Sent O/S

All the way

Hidden 06/Apr/13 Sent O/S
john lynch 06/Apr/13 Solo O/S

above snow, topped it out.

Hidden 06/Apr/13 Sent O/S
Jeronimo 06/Apr/13 Sent O/S

Snowballed. Topped out.

Hidden 06/Apr/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/13 Solo O/S
whitehouse_rhys 05/Apr/13 Solo O/S
with heather osborn, Mark Roe
MarkRoe 05/Apr/13 Solo G/U

Fell of the start in the past when it was hot, so can't claim the on-sight. Snowballed the hard bit. Amazing!!

with Heather Osborne, Martin Veale, Rhys Whitehouse
Heather Osborne 05/Apr/13 Solo O/S
Joe Costello 04/Apr/13 Sent β

SNOW cheat ascent!

with James, Liam
Hidden 04/Apr/13 Sent
wi11 04/Apr/13 Sent β

Snowball to the break

with Rob Greenwood, Duncan C
fresherjohn 04/Apr/13 Solo O/S

snowballed, almost onsight...

Si dH 04/Apr/13 Solo O/S

Snowball - cut off about the bottom 5-6 feet and made the landing much flatter! :)

highrepute 04/Apr/13 Sent O/S


drysori 04/Apr/13 Solo β

Above snow platform.

Duncan Campbell 04/Apr/13 Sent O/S

Snowballed to break, looked like topout was snowy. Psyched to do it properly now!

with Will hardy, Robbie
Graeme Hammond 04/Apr/13 Solo O/S

Excellent - snowball, topped out. Not as hard as I expected might be back in the summer...

AlistairB 04/Apr/13 Solo

Snowball to first break & traverse off

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 04/Apr/13 Sent
Hidden 03/Apr/13 -
aretherenoneleft 03/Apr/13 Sent O/S

snowballed so hardly a route

with Richard Morley
fp219 02/Apr/13 -


birdie1989 02/Apr/13 Sent


Chris_barr 02/Apr/13 Sent


with Drew
WillDoyle 02/Apr/13 Sent O/S
Haydn Jones 02/Apr/13 Sent O/S
soph 02/Apr/13 Sent O/S

above snow

with Alex Hughes
andi turner 01/Apr/13 Sent

Up it then down it.

Hidden 01/Apr/13 Sent
jake_haddock ?/Apr/13 Solo O/S

Snowballed.. the very top was soaking wet though, spicy even with the snow!

with Adam Jennings
Hidden ?/Apr/13 Solo O/S
quiffhanger 31/Mar/13 Sent rpt

Repeat ascent to the break above a snow platform. Much less stressful than last time. Also downclimbed it.

with Jake
samt ??/2013 -
nathanlee 02/Dec/12 Solo

fell off just below the break onto pads. steadier second go. cheated it really, but fun all the same.

BenNorman 02/Dec/12 Solo O/S

Good few pads so fall off able but still scary. Pleased to onsight, incredible feature!

GuyVG 02/Dec/12 Solo

second go, tamed with a load of pads

with crew
rustaldo 02/Nov/12 Solo dnf

ouch. fell from just below the break. half on pad half off. scary.

BRoe 14/Jul/12 Lead rpt

Top roped it ages ago like an absolute idiot. Amazing route, the fact that it's quite serious just adds to how absolutely brilliant it is and makes it that much more sweeter, three stars for sure.

jacobjlloyd 10/Jun/12 Solo O/S

Wow. What a route! Amazing climbing, and a perfect line. Glad to finally do it. Had a pad and a spot (thanks cameron!) but not convinced it would have made a difference. Really serious for E3 - if every E3 leader got on this the hospital would probably fill quickly.

with cameron
cameron_hall 10/Jun/12 TR dnf

Fun to give another arete climb a go after Jacob soloed it. With luck and a bit more effort, I might have got up it, but the midges were horrendous.

Hidden 03/May/12 Lead O/S
mhawk 10/Apr/12 TR O/S
climb the peak 10/Mar/12 TR dog
Andy Peak 1 21/Feb/12 TR
quiffhanger ?/Feb/12 -

One of the scarier E3s I've climbed, even with a pad.

Hidden 14/Jan/12 2nd RP
Hidden ?/Jan/12 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
J.Wells 28/Oct/11 Solo O/S

amazing amazing amazing

Hidden 15/Jun/11 TR dog
Kevin Robert Jones 27/Apr/11 2nd RP
tomthecoolperson 20/Apr/11 TR O/S
with Ben 250
jacobjacob 09/Apr/11 Solo rpt
Chi Cheng 27/Mar/11 Solo O/S

No pads used. Got it after I got scare and down climbed. Foot almost came off twice. Amazing line.

Rachel Slater 27/Mar/11 Solo O/S

Just wanted to have a look at this line then ended up getting on it! Utterly horribly scary but amazing at the same time. Probably the happiest I've been after a trad route ever. No pads.

harvie 19/Mar/11 Solo
with "mad" max the guy from the guide
alaan 07/Mar/11 Solo rpt
highlux 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Greasier than I would have liked - the arete felt a bit sketchy higher up, but a very satisfying tick.

Mike Goldthorp 02/Mar/11 Solo rpt

Felt tougher today, bit warm, had to chalk up on pretty much every hand movement.

C coldwell-storry 25/Feb/11 Lead O/S
with Mike Thomas
Lunar25 30/Jan/11 TR O/S

tore the tips off my fingers but finished clean, triumphant at the top with blood dripping from hands. Epic :D

with Nia
uphillnow ??/2011 -
jfane ??/2011 Solo O/S
akhughes 10/Nov/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 27/Oct/10 Solo dnf
simondunf 18/Oct/10 Solo
pipof747 05/Oct/10 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Oct/10 Lead
migs493 04/May/10 Solo O/S


MorganPreece 13/Apr/10 Solo O/S

no friction! 3 Mats!!! :O

with Jessy and Solo
Hidden 06/Apr/10 TR O/S
Mike Goldthorp 15/Mar/10 Solo O/S
bigie bob 11/Mar/10 Solo O/S
rikbattye ?/Mar/10 Solo O/S
jacobjacob 23/Jan/10 Lead O/S

very scary!

TonyF ??/2010 -
pie_eater_pete ??/2010 -
Hidden ?/Dec/09 -
NorthernRock 10/Oct/09 TR
with Kirk
Hidden 03/Oct/09 Solo
Hidden 24/Sep/09 TR dnf
dan gibson 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with AJ
titchbach 11/Sep/09 2nd
Andrew Barker 30/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Yes. Another route that's been on the list for as long as I've been climbing on grit. Very intense, I did a couple of moves up and down then went for it. I found I was concentrating so hard I didn't really consider anything other than success. It was nice to have some gear for the top even though it's much easier. A four star route.

with Will the northern southerner
Bobby Gilbert 12/Aug/09 Lead dnf

Fell off at 20ft before getting first runner in. Decked it. Doh!

chrisdavies 20/Jun/09 TR
fennerz 14/Jun/09 Solo O/S


with Liam Copley
EmmanuelF 31/May/09 TR dog
with Laura
Skell 19/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Kelvin
dj_brigham05 14/Mar/09 Lead dnf

Very greasy i thought. Fell from 2/3rds way up 5 times before stopping!

alaan 31/Jan/09 Solo
JSA 29/Dec/08 Solo dnf
with James Rowe
Hidden 09/Dec/08 Solo β
Andrew Jennings ?/Dec/08 Sent O/S
with Mia Stacey, Scott Gibson, Bob Smith, Mike Adams
Will Hunt 22/Nov/08 Lead O/S

Utterly utterly intense. Foot skidded near the top but managed to stay on.

with Sarah Radford, Ewan Russel, Tom Nichols
Boy ?/Nov/08 -
Hidden 15/Jul/08 TR
harryjenner ?/Apr/08 2nd
hailtryfan ?/Mar/08 2nd dog
with Tobias
Ed Booth 20/Feb/08 Solo

I top roped this about 4 years ago when i was getting into climbing, so technically not a true onsite although i don't remember any of the holds and all the beta you need to know you can get form the ground anyway. What a route!

jamesturnbull ??/2008 Lead
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2008 Lead
with Holly Mumford
alaan 30/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Grant
MYSSAK 28/Oct/07 Solo rpt
Ram MkiV 20/Oct/07 Solo O/S
LankyPaddy 20/Oct/07 Solo O/S

2 pads :o)

Hidden 15/Oct/07 Solo O/S
willackers 07/Oct/07 Solo O/S
with Tom Mills
Apharri ?/Oct/07 Solo
with Tom Parry
sgl0jd ?/Apr/07 TR
timbanton 10/Mar/07 -
Dave Bond 10/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with ollie
Grit Wraith ?/Mar/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 05/Nov/06 Lead β
bronsonite 02/Nov/06 Solo O/S
Kyuzo 29/Oct/06 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/06 Solo O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 29/Apr/06 Solo rpt
Paz 16/Apr/06 Lead dnf
with CC2
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 04/Apr/06 Solo rpt
King Rat ??/2006 2nd O/S
with A
mgeek ??/2006 Solo O/S
reg_measures ??/2006 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Dec/05 Solo
shark 13/Oct/05 Lead O/S
with Pete Sutton
ali_robb ?/Jul/05 Solo O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 TR
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 05/Sep/04 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2004 Solo O/S
Hidden 22/Nov/03 Solo O/S
Ropeboy 26/Oct/03 Lead
Jus ?/Oct/03 Solo dnf


Hidden 13/Sep/03 TR
kato'sdad 11/May/03 TR
RobSimmo 11/May/03 TR dog
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/02 TR RP
Hidden ??/2002 -
nickdonohue 26/Mar/00 2nd
with David ?, Sue Pinner
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Hidden 18/Aug/99 TR
Simon Pearce ??/1999 -
CrashMat Rob 28/Mar/98 TR
with Nicky
DavidEvans 14/Feb/98 Lead rpt

Well chuffed.

with Dave Irving, Chris Gilligan, William Wilson, James Kay
DavidEvans 14/Feb/98 Lead O/S
with Dave Irving, Chris Gilligan, William Wilson, James Kay
Hidden 25/Jan/98 Lead O/S
dominic lee 17/Oct/97 Solo rpt
with Pete O'Donnovan
CrashMat Rob 20/Sep/97 TR
with Paul Kerr
Hidden 17/Jul/97 TR O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 27/Apr/97 Solo O/S
mattnuttall 15/Oct/94 Solo O/S
Dom Whillans ?/Sep/94 TR

farting around on first ever day on grit. did it twice no problem really should pull my finger out and climb it properly one day...

Dave Douglas 25/Aug/94 TR O/S
Hidden 14/May/94 TR
mikedelderfield 01/May/94 Solo O/S
Hidden 19/Sep/93 TR
Hidden 14/Aug/93 TR
Craig Barton ??/1993 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/1993 Lead O/S
Cowflinger ?/Aug/92 TR
Cowflinger 12/Apr/92 TR O/S
richiebongo ??/1992 Solo O/S
JSA ??/1991 -
tapley 20/May/90 2nd
Andy Say 02/Jul/89 Solo O/S
Rob Davies 21/May/89 TR
with Mick Moss
phardman 15/Apr/89 Lead O/S
with John Lloyd
mik1miller ??/1989 Solo
BRUCESTRAC ??/1988 -
with Chris Cracknell,Various
sadams ?/Sep/87 Solo
with Guy Townsend
robyn1 ??/1987 -
Pete Pozman 03/Sep/86 2nd O/S
with Mark Gray
Chris Ellis 10/May/86 2nd
with Andy Barker
Hidden 15/Jun/85 TR
Dave Musgrove 15/Jul/84 Lead O/S
with Keith Bostrum
shark 19/May/84 Lead dnf

My first attempt - managed to do it 21 years later !

with Simon Matthews
Hidden 30/Mar/84 Solo
Hidden 29/Mar/84 -
stp 03/Mar/84 Solo β

Fire's came out with sticky rubber so this was an obvious route to go for. Cool.

Hidden 25/Feb/84 TR
Mark Kemball 15/Jun/83 Lead

In the days before mats, a rope to the side to stop me rolling down the slope, one fall, a slightly twisted ankle, got back on it and got it second go.

with Matt Gordon
mark-abz 16/Sep/82 TR
with Andy W
redjerry ?/Sep/82 Lead O/S
with Bob Duncan
andy gittins ??/1982 TR
Hidden 23/May/81 Lead
Mike Owen 28/Oct/78 -
with Hugh Watkins
steve L 27/May/78 Lead O/S
Chris Terrey ??/1978 TR
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 53
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 54
Votes cast 49
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set