Archangel*** E3 5b
[Archangel , 2 kb]22m. A totally committing layback up the left side of the superb arete. Side-runners should be avoided by all but the misguided. From the starting block, take a deep breath, and sprint for the midway break. Thankfully things are easier above. © ROCKFAX
FA. Ed Drummond 1972

Ticklists: Top 20 Gritstone UKC Wishlist Climbs, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Stanage Routes Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Big Rons 100 extremes in a day, World Graded List, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Peak Rock/11/Gritstone in the Seventies., Ultimate E3 ticklist, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist.

Photo: Archangel © Nadir khan
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 213 logbooks, and on 152 wishlists.

Hidden - Solo - 04/Oct/14

MoWalker3 - TR dnf - 29/Jun/14

Incredible. Couple of pads so not E3 but felt worthy of a couple of E's at the top! Technically easier than Crescent Arete but psychologically a lot harder. Turn off the brain, don't look down and keep going.
spidermonkey09 - Sent O/S - 16/Feb/14 with Tom Frost

TRFrost - Sent - 16/Feb/14 with J. Hulbert

mike mo - 2nd - 2014

hilty - Solo β - 28/Dec/13

Ankle bye bye
joese7en - Solo dnf - 17/Dec/13

Matt Cooke - Lead β - 30/Nov/13 with Scott, Sam Taylor

Side runner, fell first time
JamesTurnbull97 - Lead RP - 06/Oct/13 with Dave Turnbull

Tried for fun and to see what sort of standard would need to be to lead it. Confirmed my belief that i cant layback.
Clemmo - TR dnf - 28/Aug/13

Just keep going!
rurp - TR O/S - 25/Jun/13

F**k YES, I'm back and no snow or mats this time for the pure tick. For my next trick...
Graeme Hammond - Lead rpt - 31/May/13 with Cleo

Blew the on-sight falling at 5m's... quick change of shoes and a windy top out, happy dayz!
Dibdawg - Solo - 28/Apr/13 with Dean Merchant

snow, previously bailed off more rounded bit onto pad out L
ellis - Sent - 10/Apr/13 with Tom Holdsworth, Dave Musgrove

Snowball. Technically easier than Crescent Arete i think
Cake - Sent O/S - 09/Apr/13 with Matt

CharlieMack - Solo O/S - 09/Apr/13 with Matt

Snowball!
Harry Chaplin - Solo O/S - 09/Apr/13

Hidden - Sent - 09/Apr/13

Hidden - Solo RP - 08/Apr/13

above snow so not really E3
Gus - Solo O/S - 07/Apr/13

mark20 - Solo O/S - 07/Apr/13

Snowballed
Andrew Jennings - Sent rpt - 07/Apr/13 with Maria Jeffery, Lindy Smith, Si Wilson, Brian McAlinden

...with the help of a pad on the snow platform. Still felt high, really pleased to get it ticked.
Obi-Wan is lost... - Solo - 07/Apr/13

Snowballed
liamoloughlin - Solo O/S - 07/Apr/13

Snowball... Watched a mate fall from near the break and twat himself pretty badly 10 years before so was nice to do it in relative safety.
Duncan Disorderly - Sent - 07/Apr/13

Above a snowdrift. The decent from the cliff top in rockshoes was harrowing. The next time I went down Don.
Brown - Solo - 06/Apr/13 with Solo

Hidden - Sent O/S - 06/Apr/13

Hidden - Sent O/S - 06/Apr/13

All the way
Laurence Everitt - Sent O/S - 06/Apr/13

Hidden - Sent O/S - 06/Apr/13

above snow, topped it out.
john lynch - Solo O/S - 06/Apr/13

Hidden - Sent O/S - 06/Apr/13

Snowballed. Topped out.
Jeronimo - Sent O/S - 06/Apr/13

Hidden - Solo O/S - 06/Apr/13

Hidden - Solo O/S - 06/Apr/13

whitehouse_rhys - Solo O/S - 05/Apr/13 with heather osborn, Mark Roe

Fell of the start in the past when it was hot, so can't claim the on-sight. Snowballed the hard bit. Amazing!!
MarkRoe - Solo RP - 05/Apr/13 with Heather Osborne, Martin Veale, Rhys Whitehouse

Heather Osborne - Solo O/S - 05/Apr/13 with rhys whitehouse

SNOW cheat ascent!
Joe Costello - Sent β - 04/Apr/13 with James, Liam

SNOWBALL and slide!!
elliepygall - Sent - 04/Apr/13 with Tash Ottley

Snowball to the break
wi11 - Sent β - 04/Apr/13 with Rob Greenwood, Duncan C

snowballed, almost onsight...
fresherjohn - Solo O/S - 04/Apr/13

Snowball - cut off about the bottom 5-6 feet and made the landing much flatter! :)
Si dH - Solo O/S - 04/Apr/13

Snowball
highrepute - Sent O/S - 04/Apr/13

Above snow platform.
drysori - Solo β - 04/Apr/13

Snowballed to break, looked like topout was snowy. Psyched to do it properly now!
Duncan Campbell - Sent O/S - 04/Apr/13 with Will hardy, Robbie

Excellent - snowball, topped out. Not as hard as I expected might be back in the summer...
Graeme Hammond - Solo O/S - 04/Apr/13

Snowball to first break & traverse off
AlistairB - Solo - 04/Apr/13

Hidden - 03/Apr/13

snowballed so hardly a route
aretherenoneleft - Sent O/S - 03/Apr/13 with Richard Morley

SNOWBALL
fp219 - 02/Apr/13

snowballed
birdie1989 - Sent - 02/Apr/13

Snowballed.
Chris_barr - Sent - 02/Apr/13 with Drew

WillDoyle - Sent O/S - 02/Apr/13

Haydn Jones - Sent O/S - 02/Apr/13

above snow
soph - Sent O/S - 02/Apr/13 with Alex Hughes

Up it then down it.
andi turner - Sent - 01/Apr/13

Hidden - Sent - 01/Apr/13

Snowballed.. the very top was soaking wet though, spicy even with the snow!
jake_haddock - Solo O/S - Apr/13 with Adam Jennings

Hidden - Solo O/S - Apr/13

Repeat ascent to the break above a snow platform. Much less stressful than last time. Also downclimbed it.
quiffhanger - Sent rpt - 31/Mar/13 with Jake

Hidden - 2013

fell off just below the break onto pads. steadier second go. cheated it really, but fun all the same.
nathanlee - Solo - 02/Dec/12 with Ben Norman, Oli Grounsell, Guy vg, Emlyn James

Good few pads so fall off able but still scary. Pleased to onsight, incredible feature!
BenNorman - Solo O/S - 02/Dec/12

second go, tamed with a load of pads
GuyVG - Solo - 02/Dec/12 with crew

ouch. fell from just below the break. half on pad half off. scary.
rustaldo - Solo dnf - 02/Nov/12

Top roped it ages ago like an absolute idiot. Amazing route, the fact that it's quite serious just adds to how absolutely brilliant it is and makes it that much more sweeter, three stars for sure.
BRoe - Lead rpt - 14/Jul/12 with whitehouse_rhys, Mark Roe

Wow. What a route! Amazing climbing, and a perfect line. Glad to finally do it. Had a pad and a spot (thanks cameron!) but not convinced it would have made a difference. Really serious for E3 - if every E3 leader got on this the hospital would probably fill quickly.
jacobjlloyd - Solo O/S - 10/Jun/12 with cameron

Fun to give another arete climb a go after Jacob soloed it. With luck and a bit more effort, I might have got up it, but the midges were horrendous.
cameron_hall - TR dnf - 10/Jun/12 with Jacob Lloyd

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/May/12

mhawk - TR O/S - 10/Apr/12 with Kai Ren Ong

climb the peak - TR dog - 10/Mar/12

Andy Peak 1 - TR - 21/Feb/12

One of the scarier E3s I've climbed, even with a pad.
quiffhanger - Feb/12

Hidden - 2nd RP - 14/Jan/12

Hidden - 2012

amazing amazing amazing
J.Wells - Solo O/S - 28/Oct/11

Hidden - TR dog - 15/Jun/11

Kevin Robert Jones - 2nd RP - 27/Apr/11

tomthecoolperson - TR O/S - 20/Apr/11 with Ben 250

jacobjacob - Solo rpt - 09/Apr/11

No pads used. Got it after I got scare and down climbed. Foot almost came off twice. Amazing line.
Chi Cheng - Solo O/S - 27/Mar/11 with Jon Fane, Rachel Stater

Just wanted to have a look at this line then ended up getting on it! Utterly horribly scary but amazing at the same time. Probably the happiest I've been after a trad route ever. No pads.
Rachel Slater - Solo O/S - 27/Mar/11 with Jon Fane

harvie - Solo - 19/Mar/11 with "mad" max the guy from the guide

alaan - Solo rpt - 07/Mar/11

Greasier than I would have liked - the arete felt a bit sketchy higher up, but a very satisfying tick.
highlux - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/11

Felt tougher today, bit warm, had to chalk up on pretty much every hand movement.
Mike Goldthorp - Solo rpt - 02/Mar/11 with Steve Ramsden

C coldwell-storry - Lead O/S - 25/Feb/11 with Mike Thomas

tore the tips off my fingers but finished clean, triumphant at the top with blood dripping from hands. Epic :D
Lunar25 - TR O/S - 30/Jan/11 with Nia

David Smith - 2011

jfane - Solo O/S - 2011

akhughes - Solo O/S - 10/Nov/10

Hidden - Solo dnf - 27/Oct/10

simondunf - Solo - 18/Oct/10

pipof747 - Lead RP - 05/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead - Oct/10

Awesome!
migs493 - Solo O/S - 04/May/10

no friction! 3 Mats!!! :O
MorganPreece - Solo O/S - 13/Apr/10 with Jessy and Solo

Hidden - TR O/S - 06/Apr/10

Mike Goldthorp - Solo O/S - 15/Mar/10

bigie bob - Solo O/S - 11/Mar/10

rikbattye - Solo O/S - Mar/10

very scary!
jacobjacob - Lead O/S - 23/Jan/10

TonyF - 2010

pie_eater_pete - 2010

Hidden - Dec/09

NorthernRock - TR - 10/Oct/09 with Kirk

Hidden - Solo - 03/Oct/09

Hidden - TR dnf - 24/Sep/09

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/09 with AJ

titchbach - 2nd - 11/Sep/09

Yes. Another route that's been on the list for as long as I've been climbing on grit. Very intense, I did a couple of moves up and down then went for it. I found I was concentrating so hard I didn't really consider anything other than success. It was nice to have some gear for the top even though it's much easier. A four star route.
Andrew Barker - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/09 with Will the northern southerner

Fell off at 20ft before getting first runner in. Decked it. Doh!
Bobby Gilbert - Lead dnf - 12/Aug/09

chrisdavies - TR - 20/Jun/09 with P.TARGETT

Awesome.
fennerz - Solo O/S - 14/Jun/09 with Liam Copley

EmmanuelF - TR dog - 31/May/09 with Laura

Skell - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/09 with Kelvin

Very greasy i thought. Fell from 2/3rds way up 5 times before stopping!
dj_brigham05 - Lead dnf - 14/Mar/09

alaan - Solo - 31/Jan/09

JSA - Solo dnf - 29/Dec/08 with James Rowe

Hidden - Solo β - 09/Dec/08

Andrew Jennings - Sent O/S - Dec/08 with Mia Stacey, Scott Gibson, Bob Smith, Mike Adams

Utterly utterly intense. Foot skidded near the top but managed to stay on.
Will Hunt - Lead O/S - 22/Nov/08 with Sarah Radford, Ewan Russel, Tom Nichols

Boy - Nov/08

Hidden - TR - 15/Jul/08

harryjenner - 2nd - Apr/08

hailtryfan - 2nd dog - Mar/08 with Tobias

I top roped this about 4 years ago when i was getting into climbing, so technically not a true onsite although i don't remember any of the holds and all the beta you need to know you can get form the ground anyway. What a route!
Ed Booth - Solo - 20/Feb/08 with Gus Hudgins

jamesturnbull - Lead - 2008

Rob Greenwood - UKC - Lead - 2008 with Holly Mumford

alaan - Lead O/S - 30/Oct/07 with Grant

MYSSAK - Solo rpt - 28/Oct/07

Ram MkiV - Solo O/S - 20/Oct/07

2 pads :o)
LankyPaddy - Solo O/S - 20/Oct/07

Hidden - Solo O/S - 15/Oct/07

willackers - Solo O/S - 07/Oct/07 with Tom Mills

Apharri - Solo - Oct/07 with Tom Parry

sgl0jd - TR - Apr/07

Hidden - 10/Mar/07

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/07 with ollie

Grit Wraith - Solo O/S - Mar/07

Hidden - Lead β - 05/Nov/06

bronsonite - Solo O/S - 02/Nov/06

Kyuzo - Solo O/S - 29/Oct/06

Hidden - Solo O/S - Jun/06

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo rpt - 29/Apr/06

Paz - Lead dnf - 16/Apr/06 with CC2

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Solo rpt - 04/Apr/06

King Rat - 2nd O/S - 2006 with A

mgeek - Solo O/S - 2006

reg_measures - Solo O/S - 2006

Hidden - Solo - Dec/05

shark - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/05 with Pete Sutton

ali_robb - Solo O/S - Jul/05

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

Hidden - TR - 2005

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo O/S - 05/Sep/04

mark s - Solo O/S - 2004

Hidden - Solo O/S - 22/Nov/03

Ropeboy - Lead - 26/Oct/03

Decked.
Jus - Solo dnf - Oct/03

Hidden - TR - 13/Sep/03

kato'sdad - TR - 11/May/03 with Rob Simpson

RobSimmo - TR dog - 11/May/03 with Jon Berry

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2003

Hidden - TR RP - Sep/02

Hidden - 2002

nickdonohue - 2nd - 26/Mar/00 with David ?, Sue Pinner

Hidden - Lead - 2000

tuftynick - Lead - 2000

Hidden - TR - 18/Aug/99

Simon Pearce - 1999

CrashMat Rob - TR - 28/Mar/98 with Nicky

Well chuffed.
MONKEY78 - Lead rpt - 14/Feb/98 with Dave Irving, Chris Gilligan, William Wilson, James Kay

MONKEY78 - Lead O/S - 14/Feb/98 with Dave Irving, Chris Gilligan, William Wilson, James Kay

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jan/98

dominic lee - Solo rpt - 17/Oct/97 with Pete O'Donnovan

CrashMat Rob - TR - 20/Sep/97 with Paul Kerr

Hidden - TR O/S - 17/Jul/97

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Solo O/S - 27/Apr/97 with Simon Witcher

mattnuttall - Solo O/S - 15/Oct/94

farting around on first ever day on grit. did it twice no problem really should pull my finger out and climb it properly one day...
Dom Whillans - TR - Sep/94

Dave Douglas - TR O/S - 25/Aug/94

Hidden - TR - 14/May/94

mikedelderfield - Solo O/S - 01/May/94

Hidden - TR - 19/Sep/93

Hidden - TR - 14/Aug/93

Cowflinger - TR - Aug/92

Cowflinger - TR O/S - 12/Apr/92 with Andy Sharp

richiebongo - Solo O/S - 1992

JSA - 1991

tapley - 2nd - 20/May/90

Andy Say - Solo O/S - 02/Jul/89

phardman - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/89 with John Lloyd

mik1miller - Solo - 1989

BRUCESTRAC - 1988 with Chris Cracknell,Various

sadams - Solo - Sep/87 with Guy Townsend

robyn1 - 1987

Pete Pozman - 2nd O/S - 03/Sep/86 with Mark Gray

Chris Ellis - 2nd - 10/May/86 with Andy Barker

Hidden - TR - 15/Jun/85

Dave Musgrove - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/84 with Keith Bostrum

My first attempt - managed to do it 21 years later !
shark - Lead dnf - 19/May/84 with Simon Matthews

Hidden - Solo - 30/Mar/84

Hidden - 29/Mar/84

Fire's came out with sticky rubber so this was an obvious route to go for. Cool.
stp - Solo β - 03/Mar/84

Hidden - TR - 25/Feb/84

In the days before mats, a rope to the side to stop me rolling down the slope, one fall, a slightly twisted ankle, got back on it and got it second go.
Mark Kemball - Lead - 15/Jun/83 with Matt Gordon

mark-abz - TR - 16/Sep/82 with Andy W

redjerry - Lead O/S - Sep/82 with Bob Duncan

andy gittins - TR - 1982

Hidden - Lead - 23/May/81

Mike Owen - 28/Oct/78 with Hugh Watkins

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Gambit, mapperley samurai, CaelanB, mop449, Alex Riley, []ł//ō|, nigel pearson, HaddRoots, alexjz, Justin T, MYox, spidermonkey09, Alex Norman, adie84, Munir Hassan, Goodstuff, michael00693, kenneM, i.fish2000, Hinchrn, Andypandyroo, theloringharvey, ajeakins, AndrewJamesCherry, TDSvejstrup, Keith Swainson, Nick Russell, jimmysdead, arandall, mhawk, mloskot, Martin Davies, robin_hackney, Dean177, Tommyads, Dickon151, climbinmunkey, Duck Egg, Just Another Dave, funsized, tpbeckley, rustaldo, Matt88, Laramadness, Dino Dave, Gaz22, Sam Cooke, pabbage, Nick1812P, Adam_42, Sam Marks, Giles1, riddle, Ewano, Liam Ingram, alexanderjwatts, madasten, Mi|es, mattrm, Dan_Carroll, sweenyt, sean0409, JonBrown, OliNewman, MaxR, rocktigger, tompilgrem, dean79, Ian Paterson, franksnb, PeteH, RockSteady, alimckay, prinny, Dan Lane, Gazleah, craig d, ebf, siah, Obi-Wan is lost..., EmmanuelF, RFWilkie, johnboyrevel, PretendClimber, tom russell, Mr Sparkle, Mr. K, tommytwotone, Tom Eagle, Owen W-G, tommytuffa, feilx, Eccentric, johnkevan, Oddjob, Jack00, jl, Tommy G, IanMulvany, Barra, timo.t, chiverstom, adam carless, Mr Wild, The Mountain Goat, Marc C, Swirly, Pythonist, Tobias at Home

Voting
Total votes cast 150
hard E40 of 51
E40 of 51
easy E48 of 51
hard E320 of 51
E322 of 51
easy E31 of 51
hard E20 of 51
E20 of 51
easy E20 of 51
hard 5c0 of 52
5c0 of 52
easy 5c2 of 52
hard 5b16 of 52
5b34 of 52
easy 5b0 of 52
hard 5a0 of 52
5a0 of 52
easy 5a0 of 52
3 Stars47 of 47
2 Stars0 of 47
1 Star0 of 47
0 Stars0 of 47
Bag of .....0 of 47
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Style of ascent

Soloed
Lead
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Toproped
Bouldered
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean rpt
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dogged
dnf