UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

14m.

Rockfax Description
From the tip of the slab, make a hard friction move to start and then just go. Unprotected but a belayer on the left is sensible! © Rockfax

FA. John Gosling 1967.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide) , Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day , Grit solos hvs -e3 , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
The old James turnbull 28 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: i agree completly with the last comments. no way anything more than e1. 5c is the first moves (safe) then the rest of the route is e1 5a, which shows a dangeous position. just needs explaining in the desciption. thought 2 stars, great buzz without being too hard
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: i agree completly with the last comments. no way anything more than e1. 5c is the first moves (safe) then the rest of the route is e1 5a, which shows a dangeous position. just needs explaining in the desciption. thought 2 stars, great buzz without being too hard
Tyler 1 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Dangerously undergraded at E1, there is no easy escape once on the arete. diud strangler the same day and found this just as scary. E2 at least.
βeta?
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βeta: Dangerously undergraded at E1, there is no easy escape once on the arete. diud strangler the same day and found this just as scary. E2 at least.
Chris the Tall 14 Nov, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: I suspect a long reach is quite useful as well
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I suspect a long reach is quite useful as well
EarlyBird 20 Dec, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: The fluttery heart symbol might be a clue.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The fluttery heart symbol might be a clue.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 37
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 35
Votes cast 32
Style of Ascent
Soloed
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Brown's Eliminate

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Froggatt Edge)

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