No description has been contributed for this climb.
FA. J.Dawes 1985.
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Graeme Hammond | 8 Apr, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: The current guide (BM&B 2005) description is that The Gordons, The Gordons climbs the square arete to the right of J.J.2 from the ledge, first on the right then on the left. This seems strange as climbing on LHS the whole way seemed like the logical independent line. Starting on the right using the layaways on the RHS seemed a lot easier by comparison. Even though it involves climbing above an ankle breaking ledge if you start on the right it would be easier to go straight up the RHS all the way at about E1 5b rather than go round to the left at some point. Surely Johnny wouldn't have done it or claimed it like this he would have pissed the LHS which would also fit the grade? Perhaps it is just a poor/misleading description and it means start on the ledge on the right but immediately step round the arete to climb it on its the left hand side? If climbing it is on the LHS is correct the following would make a better description... "The Gordons, The Gordons, E3 6a: From the ledge on the right place good gear in a the diagonal break and layback the arete entirely on the left hand side, a good boulder problem in the sky" For reference this photo gives a good view of the climb (the arete to the right of the climber: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/lawrencefield-91/excalibur-10829#photos&gid=1&pid=5 | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The current guide (BM&B 2005) description is that The Gordons, The Gordons climbs the square arete to the right of J.J.2 from the ledge, first on the right then on the left. This seems strange as climbing on LHS the whole way seemed like the logical independent line. Starting on the right using the layaways on the RHS seemed a lot easier by comparison. Even though it involves climbing above an ankle breaking ledge if you start on the right it would be easier to go straight up the RHS all the way at about E1 5b rather than go round to the left at some point. Surely Johnny wouldn't have done it or claimed it like this he would have pissed the LHS which would also fit the grade? Perhaps it is just a poor/misleading description and it means start on the ledge on the right but immediately step round the arete to climb it on its the left hand side? If climbing it is on the LHS is correct the following would make a better description... "The Gordons, The Gordons, E3 6a: From the ledge on the right place good gear in a the diagonal break and layback the arete entirely on the left hand side, a good boulder problem in the sky" For reference this photo gives a good view of the climb (the arete to the right of the climber: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/lawrencefield-91/excalibur-10829#photos&gid=1&pid=5 |
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| samt | 20 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Small wires and small microcams in the break protect but tricky to place. I'd say worth an ab to brush and to check the placements. Climbed the right hand side off the big layaways, and then rocked around left with feet in the break. Probably possible to climb it entirely on the left which whilst harder initially, might feel less intimidating. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Small wires and small microcams in the break protect but tricky to place. I'd say worth an ab to brush and to check the placements. Climbed the right hand side off the big layaways, and then rocked around left with feet in the break. Probably possible to climb it entirely on the left which whilst harder initially, might feel less intimidating. |
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Route of Interest
Nightmare of Brown Donkeys
Grade: E3 5c ***
(High Tor)