Rockfax Description
The right-hand arete of the buttress is bold and high in the grade. Climb the thin crack to the arete then balance round left and finish direct. The big black flake right of the arete and close to the crux is hollow and not a great spot to place runners. © Rockfax

FA. John Allen early 1970s 1972

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age.

Hidden 20/Sep 2nd O/S
Gav Williams 23/Aug 2nd
with Catherine Elliott
jonhowson 06/Aug 2nd O/S


with Francis
Hidden 05/Jul 2nd
Dave Garnett 27/Jun 2nd
with Maurice Birkill, Mick Hill
Hidden 10/May Lead rpt
Chris M 24/Apr AltLd
Hidden 14/Apr Lead
Hidden 22/Mar Solo O/S
ralphio 12/Mar Lead O/S

Arete easier than it looks from below. HVS 4c.

with Nik
spenser 07/Mar Lead O/S

Rocked over onto the block near the start then paid for it by having to rock over back to the left of the arete immediately after!

Hidden 07/Mar 2nd
Tom Keaveny 18/Jan Lead O/S
with Coel
Canyak ??/2015 -
A Jackson ??/2015 Lead O/S
LakesWinter 09/Nov/14 Lead O/S

Last decent gear is at around half height...

with Cake
Cake 09/Nov/14 Lead β

Matt's gear. Bit nasty

with Matt
Binder 18/Oct/14 2nd O/S
with Alan D, Dave M, Tom L
pebbles 12/Oct/14 Lead

no side runners but got lured to middle of wall thinking I saw some valid runners, which turned out to be worth squat, score o 1 on the 1-10 list! fell out when my partner gave itva stern look.

with steve jenkins
Chris Craggs 07/Sep/14 2nd

Bold upper bit but soft for E1

with Graham Parkes
Hidden 31/Aug/14 2nd
ashtond6 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
alp79 24/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Rosa, Jonny Ashton
nrhardy 23/Aug/14 2nd O/S
the power 23/Aug/14 Lead rpt
with neil
john max 07/Aug/14 Lead
with Richard Williams
daveclarke5 29/Jun/14 2nd
dannyboy83 06/Jun/14 Solo O/S
max_chan 05/Jun/14 Lead O/S
apw 05/Jun/14 2nd
with Matthew Fennelow
GazzerM54 17/May/14 TR
with Ronnie Wriggs
Hidden 03/May/14 2nd
dr_botnik 28/Apr/14 Lead O/S
the power 14/Apr/14 Lead rpt

Solid at E1 5a

Hidden 10/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Nick1812P 04/Apr/14 Solo O/S
origamib 30/Mar/14 2nd O/S
rurp 11/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Lovely balance climbing not too scary

with bill farmer
Brown 09/Mar/14 Lead
with Lilifa
the power 04/Feb/14 2nd O/S
with Andy
Andy Peak 1 04/Feb/14 Lead
with phill ukc
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
gavinpeach 30/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Didn't place cams to the left near the top as looked off route to me. The climbing is never too difficult but sticking to the arete and avoiding using the side runner is fairly bold climbing.

with Hellen
helin 30/Nov/13 2nd
with gavin
Hidden 23/Nov/13 Lead
HB1 26/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with KB
Eagertom 12/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Dan led this extremely well. A good route, with admittedly sparse protection, but nice layback technique practice.

Hidden 12/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead RP
bobpilgrem 02/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Dennis
cem 20/Apr/13 Lead rpt
Paul Baxter 20/Apr/13 2nd
with Charles
pimpy 20/Apr/13 2nd
with Charles
Hidden 03/Nov/12 2nd
Prof. Outdoors 07/Oct/12 TR
with Lorna
torsok 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Juian
pebbles 02/Sep/12 2nd

guidos lead. balancy, and very bold I thought. even with side runner out left, getting to side runner is unprotected.

with karl claxton, guido
rustaldo 11/Aug/12 Solo O/S


deacondeacon 09/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Sardien 06/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Andy Scott
Sebastien Gastaud 18/Jun/12 Lead O/S
john_ni 18/Jun/12 TR
with Sebastien Gastaud
tigertim 18/Jun/12 2nd
jwpil 10/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Cliff
Hidden 01/Jun/12 Lead
mountaingoatgirl 25/May/12 2nd
with Nick Bean
buxtoncoffeelover 25/May/12 Lead
David Kay 23/May/12 Lead O/S
with Mel Michon
Hidden 23/May/12 2nd
Hidden 20/May/12 Lead O/S
spragglerocks 12/May/12 2nd O/S
Batt 12/May/12 Lead O/S

Not E1!!

Steve Waters, Mynydd 06/May/12 2nd

Flake not as hollow as expected (having just done Tower Face Direct) and cam above it seemed bomber. Great move round onto the front face. Finishing section looked easy through belay glasses but proved much trickier. Careful footwork required. Both Mike's higher cams proved psychological and popped out as he passed them but there are a couple of small cam slots just beneath the roof that looked bomber. E1 5a/5b.

mtempest 06/May/12 Lead
John Nuttall 06/May/12 2nd
with Cliff
Hidden 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Fragmod 01/Apr/12 2nd
Coel Hellier 01/Apr/12 Lead
WB 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S


with Guy
stuaart 25/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Mark
Bigfoot89 11/Mar/12 Lead dog

Placed the gear in the wrong place

Hidden ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
keith leonard ??/2012 -
tompilgrem 12/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Dad
bobpilgrem 12/Nov/11 2nd O/S

Good lead by Tom.

with Bob/Tom
victim of mathematics 28/Oct/11 2nd O/S

A nice line, but it feels rather eliminate to avoid the line of holds leading out left near the top.

James Oswald 24/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Good rock. Traversed leftwards at the end up the easy finish as I'd ran out of small cams...

with Colin Angus
Martin Davies 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Really nice holds on top bit, quite bold. Gear flake on right was pretty hollow!

with Nicole Penn
tinab ?/Oct/11 Lead
ian d f 28/Sep/11 Lead O/S
missxandrabee 28/Sep/11 2nd
stevorobs3 26/Sep/11 2nd O/S
pie_eater_pete 23/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Ceridwen 18/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Be careful of the large hollow flake which is the only protection for the second part of the climb

with Phil
owain86 18/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Chris
heather rogers 18/Sep/11 TR O/S
with Ceri
GLO 18/Sep/11 2nd
Hidden 11/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/11 2nd
Hidden 24/Jul/11 TR O/S
Mark Dennison 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S

The old book says HVS :-)

with Dawn
Hidden 10/Jul/11 2nd O/S
w.pettet-smith 29/Jun/11 Solo
with me myself and pies
Rachel Slater 28/May/11 Lead O/S
with Hannah Newcombe, Sarah Rixham
Rob Davies ?/Apr/11 Lead
with Phil Ashton
Hidden 17/Jan/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jan/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
Hidden 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Oct/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Oct/10 -
Tony Holdsworth 07/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Guido
Hidden 08/Aug/10 2nd O/S
colin milton 08/Aug/10 Lead
with little vic
catblack 29/Jul/10 2nd
Andrew Barker 29/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Felt bold, didn't like the hollow sounds the large flake on the right of the arete made when I tapped it.

Hidden 29/Jul/10 Solo O/S
disturbed_one51 25/Jul/10 2nd
with Wee man
Jonathan Hall 25/Jul/10 Lead
ollieben 10/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with harry henson
hazza 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 29/Jun/10 2nd rpt
with Jim
Jim Slater 29/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Go with HVS grade, bit too soft for E1.

Hidden 28/May/10 TR
Hidden 25/May/10 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 25/Apr/10 Lead O/S

As grade suggests there is not a massive amount of gear but the climbing is never hard, maybe just HVS as per the BMC guide though E1 5a better illustrates the run-out. Nice route.

gazfellows 17/Apr/10 Lead
Hidden 13/Apr/10 TR
Ian Hamer ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Megan
TonyF ??/2010 -
Ewano ??/2010 TR
pete1993 ??/2010 -
Hidden ?/Dec/09 -
Hidden 07/Nov/09 Solo O/S
mike_clayton 17/Oct/09 2nd O/S
The Bad Cough 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Chris Craggs 18/Aug/09 -
with Graham Parkes
goi.ashmore 02/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with John Marsland
John Marsland 02/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Goi
charlesmfrench 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Anette
Hidden 24/Jun/09 Solo O/S
Coel Hellier 13/Jun/09 Lead
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 31/May/09 Lead O/S
stuartberg 30/Apr/09 TR O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/09 2nd rpt
v man 29/Mar/09 2nd O/S
OliBoyes 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with mike thomas, jo
Alex Mason 06/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Using a sling for a harness (annoying), good rock, rubbish route.

Ram MkiV 06/Mar/09 Solo O/S
with lee, al, guy
JamieSparkes 22/Dec/08 2nd

delicate moves onto the front face from the arete - nice :D

Hidden 22/Dec/08 Lead O/S
SecretSquirrel 16/Nov/08 2nd
with FedUp
Oli 31/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Tom Anthistle
lowersharpnose 27/Sep/08 Lead

I enjoyed this route a lot. Good gear in the mid-height break, from there a tricky move round onto the front face is followed by interesting climbing without gear until very near the top. I climbed this route thinking it was HVS 5a and thought it fair for the grade.

with ScoopSimpson
Si dH 21/Sep/08 Lead rpt
with Neil Furniss
Katie Marshall 24/Aug/08 2nd
with Guido
Hidden 23/Aug/08 -
jw231 15/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Al Benson
al99 15/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with James Whitlock
Peetzy 10/Aug/08 2nd O/S
staceyjg 25/Jul/08 TR O/S
minaturechris 25/Jul/08 TR O/S
with Stacey
Shauna 21/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Steve
paul birch ?/Jul/08 Lead O/S
feilx 11/Jun/08 Solo O/S
Martin Haworth 25/May/08 Lead O/S
with Andy, Steve
Andrew Sloan 25/May/08 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2008 -
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
Karl Wooffindin 07/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Gareth Wooffindin
Joe Dove 23/Sep/07 2nd
with kev
Hidden 22/Jul/07 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Jul/07 TR
climbingpixie 02/Jun/07 Lead O/S

First E1 lead. Pretty soft if you keep your head. Steady climbing but pretty run out above indifferent gear. Protection and holds improve at the top-out.

with Jon
Duncan Skelton 19/May/07 2nd
with Paul O'Toole
BallsofBritishSteel 29/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with Charles
cem 29/Apr/07 Lead rpt
with Rob Truckle
Hidden 21/Mar/07 TR
chrisclimber_1986 02/Feb/07 2nd O/S
with Chris Nawrat
Hidden ?/Feb/07 Lead
Pete Horn ??/2007 2nd
with Graham
Duncan I ??/2007 -
Sidekick ?/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Budge 08/Jun/06 Lead O/S
dangerousoldfool ?/Jun/06 2nd O/S
with Budge
Boy ??/2006 -
Si dH 13/Dec/05 Lead O/S
with Neil Furniss/Tom Lambert
shark 13/Oct/05 Solo O/S
leon ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S

one of the few e1's i managed in 2005

richardr ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
cem 14/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Cragrat Rich ?/Jul/05 Lead O/S

Led unconfidently during poor run of form. Poorly protected and worrying at the time

Hidden ?/Jul/05 Lead O/S
MeMeMe ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
eduardo 17/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with Duncan Willey
SteveM 10/Apr/05 2nd
with Keith
Hidden 23/Jul/04 Lead O/S
rocktigger ??/2004 Lead O/S

Graded in guild book as HVS at time of lead

with Clare
Ropeboy 15/Nov/03 Lead
furry 28/Jun/03 2nd
with Phil B
PenJD 04/Sep/02 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/02 Lead
Hidden ??/2002 -
Hidden 13/May/01 Lead
Hidden 10/Jun/00 Lead dnf
tlr ??/2000 Lead
ellie macpherson ?/Sep/99 2nd
with matt smith, Ian Holmes
BlueJohn 13/Jun/99 2nd
with Dieago
Hidden 22/Mar/98 2nd
Hidden 15/Feb/98 Lead
Iain Thow 09/Oct/96 2nd

Seconded in semi dark.

with Dave Walch
Budge 06/Jun/96 2nd O/S
with Carl Tiivas, Mike Oates
Trobbo 03/Sep/95 Lead
with john blower
nai ??/1995 2nd
djones66 ?/Oct/93 Lead O/S

I lead this as an HVS and enjoyed it, though its definitely a bold lead at this kind of grade.

with Stve mc D
Hidden 17/May/92 Lead
Hidden 26/Oct/91 2nd O/S
TonyF 30/Jun/91 Lead O/S
with Tony Cox
Gordon Stainforth 29/Jun/91 2nd
with Bill Wintrip
Roget 23/Jun/91 Solo O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/90 Lead
stp ?/Jun/89 Solo O/S
Chris the Tall ?/Oct/87 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove 03/Jan/87 Solo
steve taylor ??/1987 -
GordonHart ??/1985 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/79 Solo O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/79 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Geoff82, Hidden, Hidden, j4kub, philboy, Steve Waters, Mynydd, Hidden, tommytwotone, Hidden
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 72
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 70
Votes cast 65
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set