Derbyshire > Stanage Plantation >
 
Pegasus Rib* E1 5a

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Flake Gully >>
12m. The right-hand arete of the buttress. Climb the flake-crack to the arete and finish up this on its left-hand side. Low in the grade but as sparsely protected as the grade suggests. © ROCKFAX
FA. John Allen early 1970s 1972

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Stanage Routes Graded List, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 190 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.

Solid at E1 5a
the power - Lead rpt - 14/Apr/14 with admackie

slacky - 2nd O/S - 10/Apr/14 with Ben Abell, Dan Bilton

Nick1812P - Solo O/S - 04/Apr/14

origamib - 2nd O/S - 30/Mar/14

Lovely balance climbing not too scary
rurp - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/14 with bill farmer

Brown - Lead - 09/Mar/14 with Lily

the power - 2nd O/S - 04/Feb/14 with Andy

Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 04/Feb/14 with phill ukc

Didn't place cams to the left near the top as looked off route to me. The climbing is never too difficult but sticking to the arete and avoiding using the side runner is fairly bold climbing.
gavinpeach - Lead O/S - 30/Nov/13 with Hellen

Hidden - Lead - 23/Nov/13

HB1 - Lead rpt - 26/Jul/13 with KB

Dan led this extremely well. A good route, with admittedly sparse protection, but nice layback technique practice.
Eagertom - 2nd O/S - 12/Jul/13 with Dan Murray

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead RP - 02/Jun/13

bobpilgrem - Lead rpt - 02/Jun/13 with Dennis

cem - Lead rpt - 20/Apr/13 with Will Grayson, Paul Baxter

A lot harder with cold fingers! Good lead, Simon.
JohnHutch - 2nd - 03/Nov/12 with SC

Prof. Outdoors - TR - 07/Oct/12 with Lorna

torsok - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/12 with Juian

guidos lead. balancy, and very bold I thought. even with side runner out left, getting to side runner is unprotected.
pebbles - 2nd - 02/Sep/12 with karl claxton, guido

HVS
rustaldo - Solo O/S - 11/Aug/12

deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/12

Sardien - 2nd O/S - 06/Aug/12 with Andy Scott

Sebastien Gastaud - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/12 with Tim Selvage

john_ni - TR - 18/Jun/12 with Sebastien Gastaud

tigertim - 2nd - 18/Jun/12 with Sebastien Gastaud

jwpil - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/12 with Cliff

Overgraded? HVS 4c?
JohnHutch - Lead - 01/Jun/12 with Nik H

mountaingoatgirl - 2nd - 25/May/12 with Nick Bean

buxtoncoffeelover - Lead - 25/May/12

David Kay - Lead O/S - 23/May/12 with Mel Michon

Hidden - 2nd - 23/May/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/May/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/May/12

Not E1!!
Batt - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with rachael spraggs

Flake not as hollow as expected (having just done Tower Face Direct) and cam above it seemed bomber. Great move round onto the front face. Finishing section looked easy through belay glasses but proved much trickier. Careful footwork required. Both Mike's higher cams proved psychological and popped out as he passed them but there are a couple of small cam slots just beneath the roof that looked bomber. E1 5a/5b.
Steve Waters, Mynydd - 2nd - 06/May/12 with Mike Tempest

Hidden - Lead - 06/May/12

John Nuttall - 2nd - 06/May/12 with Cliff

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/12

Fragmod - 2nd - 01/Apr/12

Coel Hellier - Lead - 01/Apr/12

hot!
WB - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/12 with Guy

stuaart - 2nd O/S - 25/Mar/12 with Mark

Placed the gear in the wrong place
Bigfoot89 - Lead dog - 11/Mar/12

Hidden - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

keith leonard - 2012

tompilgrem - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/11 with Dad

Good lead by Tom.
bobpilgrem - 2nd O/S - 12/Nov/11 with Bob/Tom

A nice line, but it feels rather eliminate to avoid the line of holds leading out left near the top.
victim of mathematics - 2nd O/S - 28/Oct/11 with James Oswald

Good rock. Traversed leftwards at the end up the easy finish as I'd ran out of small cams...
James Oswald - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/11 with Colin Angus

Really nice holds on top bit, quite bold. Gear flake on right was pretty hollow!
Martin Davies - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Nicole Penn

ian d f - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/11 with Xandra, Steve Robinson

missxandrabee - 2nd - 28/Sep/11 with Steve, ian d f

stevorobs3 - 2nd O/S - 26/Sep/11 with Xandra, Ian Faulkner

pie_eater_pete - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/11

Be careful of the large hollow flake which is the only protection for the second part of the climb
Ceridwen - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/11 with Phil

owain86 - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/11 with Chris

heather rogers - TR O/S - 18/Sep/11 with Ceri

CJEFF - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/11 with Thomas Ramsdon

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Aug/11

Hidden - TR O/S - 24/Jul/11

The old book says HVS :-)
Mark Dennison - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/11 with Dawn

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Jul/11

w.pettet-smith - Solo - 29/Jun/11 with me myself and pies

Rachel Slater - Lead O/S - 28/May/11 with Hannah Newcombe, Sarah Rixham

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Jan/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jan/11

Hidden - Lead - 2011

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Oct/10

Hidden - 07/Oct/10

Tony Holdsworth - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/10 with Guido

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/10

colin milton - Lead - 08/Aug/10 with little vic

catblack - 2nd - 29/Jul/10 with Andy Barker

Felt bold, didn't like the hollow sounds the large flake on the right of the arete made when I tapped it.
Andrew Barker - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/10 with Cat Black

Hidden - Solo O/S - 29/Jul/10

disturbed_one51 - 2nd - 25/Jul/10 with Wee man

Jonathan Hall - Lead - 25/Jul/10 with Mark Williams

ollieben - 2nd O/S - 10/Jul/10 with harry henson

hazza - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/10

Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 29/Jun/10 with Jim

Go with HVS grade, bit too soft for E1.
Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/10 with Graeme

JohnHutch - TR - 28/May/10 with L

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/May/10

As grade suggests there is not a massive amount of gear but the climbing is never hard, maybe just HVS as per the BMC guide though E1 5a better illustrates the run-out. Nice route.
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/10 with ollie

gazfellows - Lead - 17/Apr/10

Hidden - TR - 13/Apr/10

Ian Hamer - Lead O/S - Apr/10 with Megan

TonyF - 2010

Ewano - TR - 2010

pete1993 - 2010

Hidden - Dec/09

Hidden - Solo O/S - 07/Nov/09

mike_clayton - 2nd O/S - 17/Oct/09 with paul cubbins

The Bad Cough - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09 with Michael Clayton, John Sealey

Chris Craggs - 18/Aug/09 with Graham Parkes

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/09 with John Marsland

John Marsland - 2nd O/S - 02/Aug/09 with Goi

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/09 with Anette

Hidden - Solo O/S - 24/Jun/09

Coel Hellier - Lead - 13/Jun/09

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead O/S - 31/May/09 with Iain Mount

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 18/Apr/09

stuartberg - TR O/S - 01/Apr/09

v man - 2nd O/S - 29/Mar/09

OliBoyes - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/09 with mike thomas, jo

Using a sling for a harness (annoying), good rock, rubbish route.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/09 with Lee Cooper

Ram MkiV - Solo O/S - 06/Mar/09 with lee, al, guy

delicate moves onto the front face from the arete - nice :D
JamieSparkes - 2nd - 22/Dec/08 with Dave Spencer

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Dec/08

SecretSquirrel - 2nd - 16/Nov/08 with FedUp

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/08

I enjoyed this route a lot. Good gear in the mid-height break, from there a tricky move round onto the front face is followed by interesting climbing without gear until very near the top. I climbed this route thinking it was HVS 5a and thought it fair for the grade.
lowersharpnose - Lead - 27/Sep/08 with ScoopSimpson

Si dH - Lead rpt - 21/Sep/08 with Neil Furniss

Katie Marshall - 2nd - 24/Aug/08 with Guido

Hidden - 23/Aug/08

jw231 - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/08 with Al Benson

al99 - 2nd O/S - 15/Aug/08 with James Whitlock

Peetzy - 2nd O/S - 10/Aug/08

staceyjg - TR O/S - 25/Jul/08 with Chris Gardner

minaturechris - TR O/S - 25/Jul/08 with Stacey

Shauna - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/08 with Steve

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/08

feilx - Solo O/S - 11/Jun/08

Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - 25/May/08 with Andy, Steve

Andrew Sloan - 2nd O/S - 25/May/08 with Martin Haworth

Jim Walton - 2008

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Karl Wooffindin - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/07 with Gareth Wooffindin

Joe Dove - 2nd - 23/Sep/07 with kev

Hidden - Lead rpt - 22/Jul/07

Hidden - TR - Jul/07

First E1 lead. Pretty soft if you keep your head. Steady climbing but pretty run out above indifferent gear. Protection and holds improve at the top-out.
climbingpixie - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/07 with Jon

Duncan Skelton - 2nd - 19/May/07 with Paul O'Toole

BallsofBritishSteel - 2nd O/S - 29/Apr/07 with Charles

cem - Lead rpt - 29/Apr/07 with Rob Truckle

Hidden - TR - 21/Mar/07

chrisclimber_1986 - 2nd O/S - 02/Feb/07 with Chris Nawrat

Hidden - Lead - Feb/07

Pete Horn - 2nd - 2007 with Graham

Duncan I - 2007

Sidekick - Lead O/S - Oct/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/06

Budge - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/06 with Dave Valentine-Hagart

dangerousoldfool - 2nd O/S - Jun/06 with Budge

Boy - 2006

Si dH - Lead O/S - 13/Dec/05 with Neil Furniss/Tom Lambert

shark - Solo O/S - 13/Oct/05

one of the few e1's i managed in 2005
leon - Lead O/S - Sep/05 with Amanda Skeldon

richardr - Lead O/S - Sep/05

cem - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/05 with Graham Dolman

Led unconfidently during poor run of form. Poorly protected and worrying at the time
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - Jul/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/05

MeMeMe - Lead O/S - Jun/05

eduardo - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/05 with Duncan Willey

SteveM - 2nd - 10/Apr/05 with Keith

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/04

Graded in guild book as HVS at time of lead
rocktigger - Lead O/S - 2004 with Clare

Ropeboy - Lead - 15/Nov/03

furry - 2nd - 28/Jun/03 with Phil B

PenJD - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/02 with Lianna Scholes

Hidden - Lead - Sep/02

Hidden - 2002

Hidden - Lead - 13/May/01

Hidden - Lead dnf - 10/Jun/00

tlr - Lead - 2000

ellie macpherson - 2nd - Sep/99 with matt smith, Ian Holmes

BlueJohn - 2nd - 13/Jun/99 with Dieago

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Mar/98

Hidden - Lead - 15/Feb/98

Seconded in semi dark.
Iain Thow - 2nd - 09/Oct/96 with Dave Walch

Budge - 2nd O/S - 06/Jun/96 with Carl Tiivas, Mike Oates

Trobbo - Lead - 03/Sep/95 with john blower

nai - 2nd - 1995

I lead this as an HVS and enjoyed it, though its definitely a bold lead at this kind of grade.
djones66 - Lead O/S - Oct/93 with Stve mc D

Hidden - Lead - 17/May/92

Gordon Stainforth - 2nd - 29/Jun/91 with Bill Wintrip

Roget - Solo O/S - 23/Jun/91

Hidden - Lead - 11/Jul/90

stp - Solo O/S - Jun/89

Chris the Tall - Lead O/S - Oct/87

Dave Musgrove - Solo - 03/Jan/87

steve taylor - 1987

GordonHart - 2nd O/S - 1985

Hidden - Solo O/S - Sep/79

Hidden - Lead - 05/Aug/79

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, j4kub, philboy, Steve Waters, Mynydd, Hidden, tommytwotone, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 184
hard E20 of 64
E20 of 64
easy E20 of 64
hard E10 of 64
E116 of 64
easy E131 of 64
hard HVS17 of 64
HVS0 of 64
easy HVS0 of 64
hard 5b0 of 62
5b0 of 62
easy 5b0 of 62
hard 5a2 of 62
5a48 of 62
easy 5a12 of 62
hard 4c0 of 62
4c0 of 62
easy 4c0 of 62
3 Stars2 of 58
2 Stars25 of 58
1 Star31 of 58
0 Stars0 of 58
Bag of .....0 of 58
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Style of ascent

Soloed13 of 190 (6.8%)
Lead97 of 190 (51.1%)
Followed53 of 190 (27.9%)
Toproped12 of 190 (6.3%)
Unknown15 of 190 (7.9%)

'Climbed'74 of 190 (38.9%)
clean O/S104 of 190 (54.7%)
clean rpt9 of 190 (4.7%)
clean RP1 of 190 (0.5%)
dogged1 of 190 (0.5%)
dnf1 of 190 (0.5%)