|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|luke glaister||11/Oct||Lead O/S|
Bold but easy up onto the ledge and gear. Great techy moves out right using some positive crimps with smears for feet, feels easier if you stay low before moving up for the obvious good hold. Balancy rockover around the arete with an easy finish.
Made the error of wearing a helmet for this one, made getting established on the traverse pretty difficult as there isn't a great deal of space between the foot holds and the roof! Coming around the arete felt harder than anything on Tower Face direct which I had climbed earlier in the day!
got scared but pressed on.
|Tom Keaveny||18/Jan||Lead O/S||
I found this climb easier than I was expecting to. Fantastic moves.
Came off just before the traverse. Annoying though quite strenuous.
|the power||12/Oct/14||2nd rpt|
right bugger to reach the crimps in the corner but eventuallt managed it. bomber gear all the way so happy as larry.
|Rich Kirby||27/Sep/14||2nd rpt||
Pauline & Andy, Helen
Nice challenging route
Couldn't do the move up to the jug so couldn't get on to the traverse.
Tough first 2/3. Reachy.
Nicer & tricker then it looks...
|Tithe Technique||01/Jun/14||2nd dog|
Third up. Gutted not to get this clean as had worked the moves out but just slipped off the crimps as I went to move across under the roof.
Nice climb. Quite tricky stepping out on to the traverse; certainly an interesting sequence.
|the power||28/Apr/14||Lead rpt|
|the power||14/Apr/14||2nd rpt|
Didn't find any of the individual moves too hard but the route as a whole was pretty strenuous. There's gear where its needed.
Good route, spoilt by strong winds- the gusts seemed to read my mind, picking up whenever I was about to commit to a move.
|the power||04/Feb/14||Lead O/S||
I said to fab it must have been 10 years (looks like 9) since I was last on this route & that mr wright had been boozing (and hence fell off) before seconding me.
Couldn't convince myself to try and move up to the huge flake.
tired and psyched out after climbing tower crack. Gave up and climbed left and up before the crux move. Slightly annoyed with myself!
to finish. cool for grit.
Dawn, Pete Briggs
|Tony Holdsworth||16/Jun/13||Lead rpt||
|Alex Thompson||01/Jun/13||Lead O/S||
Took a moment to commit to the crux move, nice.
Dave went up left to get under the roof. I went up right, which I think was easier. But Dave hadn't put in any gear under the roof except on the far right, so felt a bit like a lead!
Great moves from the rest under the roof
Great climb, and a great challenge. Had to rest when getting under the overhang due to wrong moves. Very enjoyable and happy, even though I rested/ had to downclimb -in a non elegant way- a bit. But enjoyed it a lot. My first HVS.
Tricky traverse that needs commitment as there is no way back
Packs a lot into a short space, in best gritstone style. For me, felt hard for 5a. Traverse seemed okay - hardest bit is starting it from the ledge & flake.
Stve mc D
|Sebastien Gastaud||18/Jun/12||2nd O/S|
|David Kay||23/May/12||Lead O/S|
|Steve Waters, Mynydd||20/May/12||Lead||
A cracking climb. After trying a few permutations at the crux, I cracked it by putting my left foot high in the crack, laybacking the flake then putting my right foot onto the ledge behind my left leg. Mike was expecting me to plunge off in a death spiral but it worked well. I took the high road on the traverse starting on a pair of small crimps. The final section was a joyful romp.
absolutely lovely, once i'd figured out the move on the ledge and the move back off it. glad I didn't give up!
Quite easy compared to other HVSs at Stanage.
|Andy Hardy||12/May/12||Lead O/S|
John Mc, Bruce
First trad route for a long while. Commitment and confidence were necessary. Psyched.
Well chuffed with this for first Trad route of 2012. Excellent Route.
|Tobias at Home||15/Oct/11||-|
Excitig, due to slightly greasy holds on the jams below the roof.
no way hvs more like vs
|Dan Geh||17/Aug/11||2nd O/S||
very easy for the grade
|Jim Slater||12/Jul/11||2nd rpt|
James PCC, Jim Slater
Seemed initially tough for the grade, however every move has a reasonable rest point and turned out to be a great climb with memorable moves.
Very enjoyable, nice one Tim.
Really nice route, crux was getting off the first little ledge up to the crack to the left of the roof, nice move to the roof, getting into traverse was awkward as I was hunched up, actual traverse and top was fine.
|Lumbering Oaf||21/May/11||2nd rpt|
|will randall||30/Apr/11||Lead O/S||
|Will Hunt||12/Feb/11||Lead O/S|
|Aaron Hauptmann||29/Jan/11||Lead O/S||
|Lumbering Oaf||06/Nov/10||2nd rpt|
|James Oswald||06/Nov/10||2nd O/S||
Very good. Quite delicate and a bit pumpy.
Nice climbing. One insecure feeling move above adequate gear low down. The traverse is brilliant fun.
Nice. Move up as high as poss before stepping left to ledge
|Lumbering Oaf||30/Oct/10||2nd O/S||
Nice route. Crux for me was getting established under the roof. Worth a star or two
One of my earliest HVS routes (1970). Wonder what gear we used?
bailed off this as found it awkward, reachy, strenuous and not enjoyable climbing
fireman ian, guido
|dan gibson||03/Aug/10||Solo rpt|
|Jim Slater||22/Jul/10||Lead O/S||
Thought this was v.hard at the grade. Fell on the traverse taking abit of a swing. Decided not to try again!
A brilliant start which saw me pull off the move of the weekend with a cracking heel hook - reachey they say! However, the hand traverse proved too much for my weary arms and I came off and was most peeved. A great route once I got back on and one that I intend to complete next time!
|Piers Harley||05/Jun/10||Lead dnf||
Excellent route, good gear but bold traverse.
|Graeme Hammond||31/Oct/09||Lead O/S||
Great route, nice moves upto and under the roof. Thought 5b in BMC guide was fair. Another Stanage unsung gem!
|Duncan Skelton||15/Aug/09||Lead β||
|craig d||25/Jul/09||Lead O/S||
|Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH||31/May/09||2nd rpt|
|Alan James - UKC and UKH||30/May/09||Solo|
|Adam Booth||22/Apr/09||2nd O/S||
|Chris the Tall||21/Apr/09||Lead rpt||
Easier than I remember, possibly because I traversed lower ?
|Dan 85||26/Oct/08||Lead O/S||
|Si dH||21/Sep/08||2nd O/S||
|Andrew Sloan||25/May/08||Lead O/S||
|Guy Wilson||21/May/08||Lead O/S||
|Mark Walter||10/May/08||Lead O/S|
Terry Jim & Tom
Nice route, did the roof no problems (apparently under here is the crux), but then messed up the final move! One for the lead wishlist of the future
Climbed the start of this route, finished direct up the top of crossover
|Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH||06/Aug/06||Solo O/S|
|shaun walby||04/May/06||2nd O/S|
Little Old Lady
|nige pacer||03/Oct/04||Lead O/S|
mr wright followed me up with budweiser in hand!!
|chris sm||?/Aug/04||Lead O/S||
|Carl Smethurst||06/Jun/04||Lead dog||
|Phil West||13/Jul/02||2nd β||
|Chris the Tall||?/Jun/98||Lead O/S||
|Daniel Wrightson||?/Oct/95||Lead O/S||
|Rich Kirby||?/Mar/95||Lead O/S|
Chris Jackson Jones
|Adam Greenwood||??/1995||Lead O/S||
also soloed in Jun 89