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Overhanging Wall** HVS 5a

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[Andy Smith on Overhanging Wall (HVS 5b) - an unsung gem at Stanage, 2 kb]14m. Climb a tricky thin crack to a rest at a flake below the roof. Traverse away right and finish up the side wall. © ROCKFAX
FA. Joe Brown early 1950s 1952

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Stanage Routes Graded List, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+.

Photo: Andy Smith on Overhanging Wall (HVS 5b) - an unsung gem at Stanage © r0b
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 275 logbooks, and on 11 wishlists.

Dave went up left to get under the roof. I went up right, which I think was easier. But Dave hadn't put in any gear under the roof except on the far right, so felt a bit like a lead!
crispycodd - 2nd O/S - 06/May/13 with David Tidman

Great moves from the rest under the roof
Dptidman - Lead O/S - 06/May/13 with Chris Todd

Great climb, and a great challenge. Had to rest when getting under the overhang due to wrong moves. Very enjoyable and happy, even though I rested/ had to downclimb -in a non elegant way- a bit. But enjoyed it a lot. My first HVS.
natalio - Lead dog - 20/Apr/13 with Alex S

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead - 20/Apr/13

Tricky traverse that needs commitment as there is no way back
pelvoux - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Paul M

tomwheeler - Lead - 21/Oct/12

andysroom - Lead dog - 21/Oct/12 with Lizzie

sf2000 - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12

Hidden - Lead dnf - 14/Oct/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Oct/12

spragglerocks - Lead rpt - 06/Oct/12 with Phil Shaw

Kayan - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/12 with David Brock

towdman - 2nd O/S - 15/Sep/12 with Daniel Armitage

Julesthe1st - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/12 with Richard Morgan

torsok - 2nd O/S - 09/Sep/12 with Juian

Packs a lot into a short space, in best gritstone style. For me, felt hard for 5a. Traverse seemed okay - hardest bit is starting it from the ledge & flake.
djones66 - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/12 with Stve mc D

Nickster - Lead - 21/Jul/12 with alan Purgues

Pilch - 2nd dog - 11/Jul/12

Sebastien Gastaud - 2nd O/S - 18/Jun/12 with Tim Selvage

tigertim - Lead - 18/Jun/12 with Sebastien Gastaud

David Kay - Lead O/S - 23/May/12 with James Hoyes

Hoyes - 2nd rpt - 23/May/12 with David K

A cracking climb. After trying a few permutations at the crux, I cracked it by putting my left foot high in the crack, laybacking the flake then putting my right foot onto the ledge behind my left leg. Mike was expecting me to plunge off in a death spiral but it worked well. I took the high road on the traverse starting on a pair of small crimps. The final section was a joyful romp.
Steve Waters, Mynydd - Lead - 20/May/12 with Mike Tempest

Hidden - 2nd - 20/May/12

absolutely lovely, once i'd figured out the move on the ledge and the move back off it. glad I didn't give up!
kirsten - 2nd - 12/May/12 with john

easier than it looked
caradoc - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with john b

999thAndy - Lead O/S - 12/May/12

John Nuttall - Lead - 12/May/12 with Kirsten

gb05 - Lead O/S - 06/May/12 with Claire Hoolohan, Ben Robinson

phardman - 2nd rpt - 05/May/12 with Bill McKee

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Apr/12

Fragmod - Lead - 01/Apr/12

Fragmod - 2nd - 25/Mar/12

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Mar/12

tsjx - Lead - 18/Mar/12 with John Mc, Bruce

Dave Rumney - 2nd - 11/Mar/12 with Sean Roberts

First trad route for a long while. Commitment and confidence were necessary. Psyched.
melonmike - Lead O/S - 05/Mar/12 with Josh

Well chuffed with this for first Trad route of 2012. Excellent Route.
freemanTom (Guildford MC) - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/12 with Jon Proudfoot

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Feb/12

Hidden - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

keith leonard - 2012

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Nov/11

tompilgrem - 2nd O/S - 12/Nov/11 with Dad

bobpilgrem - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/11 with Bob/Tom

Hidden - Solo dnf - 02/Nov/11

mikeshewring - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11

brockers - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Maggie Bass

Tobias at Home - 15/Oct/11 with SteveM

SteveM - 2nd - 15/Oct/11 with Tobs

odox - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Oli Warlow

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Oct/11

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Oct/11

pearson9596 - Lead β - 28/Sep/11 with Tim Culwick

Excitig, due to slightly greasy holds on the jams below the roof.
msoldn - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/11 with Pete Millner

buxtoncoffeelover - Lead - 16/Sep/11

Nigel Bond - Lead - 31/Aug/11 with Bern Hardman

no way hvs more like vs
tgeh - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/11 with dan geh

very easy for the grade
Dan Geh - 2nd O/S - 17/Aug/11 with Thomas Geh

Hidden - Lead - 09/Aug/11

SteWatkins - Aug/11

Jim Slater - 2nd rpt - 12/Jul/11 with James Lismore, Matt Fennelow

max_chan - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/11 with James PCC, Jim PCC

Seemed initially tough for the grade, however every move has a reasonable rest point and turned out to be a great climb with memorable moves.
boulderholder - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11

dj_brigham05 - Solo O/S - 26/Jun/11 with Rob Tyler, Pete Abernethy

Very enjoyable, nice one Tim.
mikehenesy - 2nd - 11/Jun/11 with Tim Reynolds

timreynolds - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11 with Mike Henesy

Really nice route, crux was getting off the first little ledge up to the crack to the left of the roof, nice move to the roof, getting into traverse was awkward as I was hunched up, actual traverse and top was fine.
eduardo - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/11 with Roger F

JRae - Lead - 27/May/11 with M Rankie

spragglerocks - Lead O/S - 21/May/11 with Matt Box

Lumbering Oaf - 2nd rpt - 21/May/11 with Rachel Spraggs

antdav - 2nd O/S - 21/May/11 with Alan Mountford, Wayne

hotfeet - Lead O/S - 21/May/11 with Ant, Wayne

waynem1985 - 2nd O/S - 21/May/11 with Antony Davies, Alan Mountford

JamieSparkes - 2nd O/S - 18/May/11 with Nick

Nick1812P - Lead O/S - 18/May/11 with Jamie

Hidden - Lead - 05/May/11

will randall - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/11 with sarah

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Apr/11

Bargate_Champ - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11

RFWilkie - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/11 with Mark

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead - 07/Mar/11

Will Hunt - Lead O/S - 12/Feb/11 with Ben Finley

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Feb/11

Mowglee - 2nd O/S - 12/Feb/11 with Tom Nichols

Brown - Solo O/S - 29/Jan/11 with Solo

Aaron Hauptmann - Lead O/S - 29/Jan/11 with Mungo

Cornish Cream - 2011

John Roberts (JR) - Lead - 2011

patsaunders - 2nd - 2011

nic42 - Lead O/S - 14/Nov/10 with dru

Lumbering Oaf - 2nd rpt - 06/Nov/10 with James Hoyes

Very good. Quite delicate and a bit pumpy.
James Oswald - 2nd O/S - 06/Nov/10 with Mark Rankine

mark20 - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/10

Hoyes - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/10 with Matt B

Nice climbing. One insecure feeling move above adequate gear low down. The traverse is brilliant fun.
lrandall - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/10 with Andy C

Hidden - Lead β - 30/Oct/10

Nice. Move up as high as poss before stepping left to ledge
Batt - Lead O/S - 30/Oct/10 with Matt Box

Nice route. Crux for me was getting established under the roof. Worth a star or two
Lumbering Oaf - 2nd O/S - 30/Oct/10 with Rach Batt

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead - 17/Oct/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Sep/10

Hidden - 25/Aug/10

holters - Lead - 23/Aug/10

One of my earliest HVS routes (1970). Wonder what gear we used?
Chris Craggs - 2nd - 22/Aug/10 with Colin Binks

bailed off this as found it awkward, reachy, strenuous and not enjoyable climbing
pebbles - 2nd dnf - 22/Aug/10 with fireman ian, guido

dan gibson - Solo rpt - 03/Aug/10

Hidden - Solo O/S - 29/Jul/10

Jonathan Hall - 2nd - 25/Jul/10 with Rob Middleton

Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/10 with Paul PCC

Podling - Lead - 22/Jul/10

ollieben - Lead dnf - 10/Jul/10 with harry henson

hazza - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/10

Adrian Daniels - 2nd - 02/Jul/10 with Steve Webster

hobblingfool - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/10

SteveMyatt - Lead dog - 20/Jun/10 with Mark Fairbank

Thought this was v.hard at the grade. Fell on the traverse taking abit of a swing. Decided not to try again!
markfairbank - Lead dnf - 19/Jun/10 with SteveyM

A brilliant start which saw me pull off the move of the weekend with a cracking heel hook - reachey they say! However, the hand traverse proved too much for my weary arms and I came off and was most peeved. A great route once I got back on and one that I intend to complete next time!
KateBolton - 2nd dog - 13/Jun/10 with Tom Boeckx

Piers Harley - Lead dnf - 05/Jun/10 with Jeremy Windsor

Piers Harley - 2nd - 05/Jun/10 with Jeremy Windsor

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/10

JohnHutch - Lead dog - 28/May/10 with L

Ketu - Lead O/S - 23/May/10 with Pete H

Hidden - Solo O/S - 08/May/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/10

Seymore Butt - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2010

Sari Nevala - 2nd - 31/Oct/09

Great route, nice moves upto and under the roof. Thought 5b in BMC guide was fair. Another Stanage unsung gem!
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/09 with Sari Nevala

mike_clayton - 2nd rpt - 17/Oct/09 with paul cubbins

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Oct/09

cliffy - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/09 with Pilar Martinez

PilarMartinez - 2nd dog - 19/Sep/09 with Ian Clifford

Hidden - Solo - 31/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/09

Duncan Skelton - Lead β - 15/Aug/09 with Jason Parker

craig d - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/09 with penny longstaff

charlesmfrench - 2nd O/S - 05/Jul/09 with Anette

madmats - Solo O/S - 24/Jun/09

gregoritos - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/09 with max

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/09

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - 2nd rpt - 31/May/09 with Iain Mount

Alan James - UKC and UKH - Solo - 30/May/09

mark4344 - 2nd - 09/May/09 with Michel

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/May/09

Hidden - Lead - 25/Apr/09

Adam Booth - 2nd O/S - 22/Apr/09 with Mike Whiteside

Easier than I remember, possibly because I traversed lower ?
Chris the Tall - Lead rpt - 21/Apr/09 with Simon Shaw

rd2904 - Lead - 14/Apr/09 with Darren Southcott

Hidden - Lead - 14/Apr/09

PenJD - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/09 with Heather Swift

d_meacher - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/09 with Harry Andrews

grumpyoldjanner - 2nd O/S - 15/Mar/09 with d_meacher

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/09

Adam1973 - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/09 with Alex

galpinos - Lead rpt - 21/Feb/09 with Ben

Nicos - Lead O/S - 11/Dec/08 with john crook

bridget143 - 2nd O/S - 06/Dec/08 with Jack Symmons

Dan 85 - Lead O/S - 26/Oct/08 with John Rous

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Oct/08

Gustav - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/08 with Matt G

deacondeacon - Lead - 27/Sep/08

Si dH - 2nd O/S - 21/Sep/08 with Neil Furniss

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Aug/08

Shauna - Lead rpt - 22/Aug/08 with Steve

LoopyLou - Lead - Aug/08 with Helen Lear

Shauna - 2nd O/S - 21/Jul/08 with Steve

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Jul/08

Andrew Sloan - Lead O/S - 25/May/08 with Steve Grove

Guy Wilson - Lead O/S - 21/May/08 with Gavin Moy

Eccentric - 2nd O/S - 10/May/08 with Mark Walter

Mark Walter - Lead O/S - 10/May/08 with Olly Birrell

darren1 - 10/May/08

Paulww - Lead - 26/Apr/08

Chris wilson - 2nd - 26/Apr/08 with Paul

Creep_pea - Lead O/S - 09/Feb/08 with Terry Jim & Tom

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/08

jamesturnbull - Lead - 2008

Jim Walton - 2008

Hidden - 2008

bullybones - 2008

feilx - Solo O/S - 21/Oct/07

Nice route, did the roof no problems (apparently under here is the crux), but then messed up the final move! One for the lead wishlist of the future
williap - 2nd - 06/Oct/07 with The Bull

Climbed the start of this route, finished direct up the top of crossover
C@rwyn - TR O/S - 09/Sep/07 with Phil

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/07

cem - Lead rpt - 12/Aug/07 with David T

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 22/Jul/07

Duncan Skelton - 2nd - 19/May/07 with Paul O'Toole

Apharri - Lead - Apr/07 with Andre Hedger

MeMeMe - 2nd - 18/Feb/07 with Andy

chrisclimber_1986 - Lead O/S - 02/Feb/07 with William Kelsall

Hidden - 2nd - Feb/07

Hidden - 2007

Pete Horn - 2nd - 2007 with Graham

Duncan I - 2007

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - Oct/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/06

Stig - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/06 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo O/S - 06/Aug/06

colin milton - Lead - 18/Jul/06 with rodger bramham

Hidden - Lead - 05/May/06

shaun walby - 2nd O/S - 04/May/06

ArnaudG - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Dec/05

shark - Solo O/S - 13/Oct/05

baldcoder - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/05 with Little Old Lady

cem - 2nd O/S - 14/Aug/05 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - Lead - 27/Jul/05

ChrisBrooke - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/05 with John Inkpen

ChrisJD - 2nd - 15/May/05 with Mike

Hidden - Lead - 15/May/05

LankyPaddy - 2nd O/S - 23/Apr/05 with Alistair Ross

SteveM - Lead - 10/Apr/05 with Keith

Stone Muppet - 2005

r0b - 2nd - 13/Nov/04 with Andy Smith

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Oct/04

Pete Nugent - Lead - 19/Sep/04 with Tony Mercer

jonnyboy - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/04 with Daniel Armitage

mr wright followed me up with budweiser in hand!!
leon - Lead O/S - Aug/04 with Andy Wright

chris sm - Lead O/S - Aug/04 with Pippa Froggatt

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/04

Carl Smethurst - Lead dog - 06/Jun/04 with Dave Pemberton

Hidden - Lead - 25/Apr/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2004

furry - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/03 with Phil B

Hidden - Solo O/S - 23/Jun/03

John Marsland - Lead - 19/Apr/03 with Pete Theobald

Ropeboy - Lead - 12/Apr/03

cornishben - Lead O/S - Jan/03

Phil West - 2nd β - 13/Jul/02 with Chris Tan

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Jul/02

Hidden - 2002

Hidden - Lead - 06/May/01

phardman - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/00 with Teresa

Hidden - Lead - 20/Aug/00

Hidden - Lead - 19/Mar/00

dan gibson - 2000

Boy - 2000

BlueJohn - 2nd - 13/Jun/99 with Dieago

Simon Pearce - 1999

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Aug/98

Chris the Tall - Lead O/S - Jun/98 with Bill G

Hidden - Lead - 22/Mar/98

martroberts - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/97

Reds - 2nd O/S - 30/May/97 with Sezer

Podling - 2nd - Mar/96

rurp - 1996

Daniel Wrightson - Lead O/S - Oct/95 with Olivia Horner

Hidden - Lead - 02/Jul/95

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - Mar/95 with Paul Tanton

bobboulderer - 2nd β - Feb/95 with Chris Jackson Jones

nai - Lead - 1995

Adam Greenwood - Lead O/S - 1995 with Pete Jeffery

Gordon Stainforth - 2nd - 29/Jun/91 with Bill Wintrip

Roget - Solo O/S - 23/Jun/91

Marti999 - Lead - 1990

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 18/Jan/89 with Dave Forster

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Jan/89

BRUCESTRAC - 1988 with Chris Cracknell,Various

Hidden - 09/May/87

GordonHart - Solo O/S - 1985

Mark Kemball - Solo - 23/Oct/82

also soloed in Jun 89
stp - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/82

Dave Musgrove - 05/Apr/80 with Kim Greenald

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/77

Hidden - Lead - 16/Oct/76

rogerskews - 1973 with Dane Atkins

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Steve Waters, Mynydd, mullermn, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Albie, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Pete E

Voting
Total votes cast 192
hard E10 of 65
E10 of 65
easy E11 of 65
hard HVS10 of 65
HVS48 of 65
easy HVS4 of 65
hard VS2 of 65
VS0 of 65
easy VS0 of 65
hard 5b0 of 65
5b0 of 65
easy 5b18 of 65
hard 5a32 of 65
5a14 of 65
easy 5a0 of 65
hard 4c1 of 65
4c0 of 65
easy 4c0 of 65
3 Stars6 of 62
2 Stars50 of 62
1 Star6 of 62
0 Stars0 of 62
Bag of .....0 of 62
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Style of ascent

Soloed16 of 275 (5.8%)
Lead149 of 275 (54.2%)
Followed84 of 275 (30.5%)
Toproped1 of 275 (0.4%)
Unknown25 of 275 (9.1%)

'Climbed'110 of 275 (40.0%)
clean O/S132 of 275 (48.0%)
clean β5 of 275 (1.8%)
clean rpt14 of 275 (5.1%)
dogged8 of 275 (2.9%)
dnf6 of 275 (2.2%)