Derbyshire > Stanage Plantation >
 
Overhanging Wall** HVS 5a

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[Overhanging Wall, Stanage, 2 kb]14m. Climb a tricky thin crack to a rest at a flake below the roof. Traverse away right and finish up the side wall. © ROCKFAX
FA. Joe Brown early 1950s 1952

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Stanage Routes Graded List, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+.

Photo: Overhanging Wall, Stanage © caradoc
View all 4 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 301 logbooks, and on 13 wishlists.

admackie - 14/Apr/14 with phil taylor

the power - 2nd rpt - 14/Apr/14 with admackie

Didn't find any of the individual moves too hard but the route as a whole was pretty strenuous. There's gear where its needed.
ralphio - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/14

slacky - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/14 with Ben Abell, Dan Bilton

WillDoyle - 2nd - 24/Mar/14

Good route, spoilt by strong winds- the gusts seemed to read my mind, picking up whenever I was about to commit to a move.
Goodstuff - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/14 with WillDoyle

Cake - 2nd O/S - 09/Mar/14

redemption
the power - Lead O/S - 04/Feb/14 with ken

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Nov/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Nov/13

apw - Lead - 05/Oct/13 with Jim Slater

I said to fab it must have been 10 years (looks like 9) since I was last on this route & that mr wright had been boozing (and hence fell off) before seconding me.
leon - Lead rpt - 28/Sep/13 with fabricio

Couldn't convince myself to try and move up to the huge flake.
cameron_hall - Lead dnf - 08/Sep/13 with Lee Hermon

tired and psyched out after climbing tower crack. Gave up and climbed left and up before the crux move. Slightly annoyed with myself!
leeoftroy - Lead dnf - Sep/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/13

pete1993 - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/13 with Shaun, Dawn, Ben

to finish. cool for grit.
benkelsey - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/13 with Dawn, Pete Briggs

Dawn_K_B - 2nd - 19/Jun/13 with Pete Briggs, Ben Kelsey

Reedymc - 2nd O/S - 16/Jun/13 with Tony Holdsworth

Tony Holdsworth - Lead rpt - 16/Jun/13 with Tom Reed

David_Gledson - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/13 with Alan

Took a moment to commit to the crux move, nice.
Alex Thompson - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Ben Powrie

BenedictIEP - 2nd dog - 01/Jun/13 with Alex Thompson

Dave went up left to get under the roof. I went up right, which I think was easier. But Dave hadn't put in any gear under the roof except on the far right, so felt a bit like a lead!
crispycodd - 2nd O/S - 06/May/13 with David Tidman

Great moves from the rest under the roof
Dptidman - Lead O/S - 06/May/13 with Chris Todd

Great climb, and a great challenge. Had to rest when getting under the overhang due to wrong moves. Very enjoyable and happy, even though I rested/ had to downclimb -in a non elegant way- a bit. But enjoyed it a lot. My first HVS.
natalio - Lead dog - 20/Apr/13 with Alex S

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead - 20/Apr/13

Tricky traverse that needs commitment as there is no way back
pelvoux - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Paul M

tomwheeler - Lead - 21/Oct/12

andysroom - Lead dog - 21/Oct/12 with Lizzie

i.fish2000 - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12

Hidden - Lead dnf - 14/Oct/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Oct/12

Hidden - Lead rpt - 06/Oct/12

Kayan - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/12 with David Brock

towdman - 2nd O/S - 15/Sep/12 with Daniel Armitage

Julesthe1st - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/12 with Richard Morgan

torsok - 2nd O/S - 09/Sep/12 with Juian

Packs a lot into a short space, in best gritstone style. For me, felt hard for 5a. Traverse seemed okay - hardest bit is starting it from the ledge & flake.
djones66 - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/12 with Stve mc D

Nickster - Lead - 21/Jul/12 with alan Purgues

Pilch - 2nd dog - 11/Jul/12

Sebastien Gastaud - 2nd O/S - 18/Jun/12 with Tim Selvage

tigertim - Lead - 18/Jun/12 with Sebastien Gastaud

David Kay - Lead O/S - 23/May/12 with James Hoyes

Hoyes - 2nd rpt - 23/May/12 with David K

A cracking climb. After trying a few permutations at the crux, I cracked it by putting my left foot high in the crack, laybacking the flake then putting my right foot onto the ledge behind my left leg. Mike was expecting me to plunge off in a death spiral but it worked well. I took the high road on the traverse starting on a pair of small crimps. The final section was a joyful romp.
Steve Waters, Mynydd - Lead - 20/May/12 with Mike Tempest

Hidden - 2nd - 20/May/12

absolutely lovely, once i'd figured out the move on the ledge and the move back off it. glad I didn't give up!
kirsten - 2nd - 12/May/12 with john

easier than it looked
caradoc - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with john b

999thAndy - Lead O/S - 12/May/12

John Nuttall - Lead - 12/May/12 with Kirsten

gb05 - Lead O/S - 06/May/12 with Claire Hoolohan, Ben Robinson

phardman - 2nd rpt - 05/May/12 with Bill McKee

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Apr/12

Fragmod - Lead - 01/Apr/12

Fragmod - 2nd - 25/Mar/12

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Mar/12

tsjx - Lead - 18/Mar/12 with John Mc, Bruce

Dave Rumney - 2nd - 11/Mar/12 with Sean Roberts

First trad route for a long while. Commitment and confidence were necessary. Psyched.
melonmike - Lead O/S - 05/Mar/12 with Josh

Well chuffed with this for first Trad route of 2012. Excellent Route.
freemanTom (Guildford MC) - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/12 with Jon Proudfoot

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Feb/12

Hidden - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

keith leonard - 2012

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Nov/11

tompilgrem - 2nd O/S - 12/Nov/11 with Dad

bobpilgrem - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/11 with Bob/Tom

Hidden - Solo dnf - 02/Nov/11

mikeshewring - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11

brockers - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Maggie Bass

Tobias at Home - 15/Oct/11 with SteveM

SteveM - 2nd - 15/Oct/11 with Tobs

odox - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Oli Warlow

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Oct/11

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Oct/11

pearson9596 - Lead β - 28/Sep/11 with Tim Culwick

Excitig, due to slightly greasy holds on the jams below the roof.
msoldn - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/11 with Pete Millner

buxtoncoffeelover - Lead - 16/Sep/11

Nigel Bond - Lead - 31/Aug/11 with Bern Hardman

no way hvs more like vs
tgeh - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/11 with dan geh

very easy for the grade
Dan Geh - 2nd O/S - 17/Aug/11 with Thomas Geh

Hidden - Lead - 09/Aug/11

SteWatkins - Aug/11

Jim Slater - 2nd rpt - 12/Jul/11 with James, Matt

max_chan - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/11 with James PCC, Jim PCC

Seemed initially tough for the grade, however every move has a reasonable rest point and turned out to be a great climb with memorable moves.
boulderholder - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11

dj_brigham05 - Solo O/S - 26/Jun/11 with Rob Tyler, Pete Abernethy

Very enjoyable, nice one Tim.
mikehenesy - 2nd - 11/Jun/11 with Tim Reynolds

timreynolds - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11 with Mike Henesy

Really nice route, crux was getting off the first little ledge up to the crack to the left of the roof, nice move to the roof, getting into traverse was awkward as I was hunched up, actual traverse and top was fine.
eduardo - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/11 with Roger F

JRae - Lead - 27/May/11 with M Rankie

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/May/11

Lumbering Oaf - 2nd rpt - 21/May/11 with Rachel Spraggs

antdav - 2nd O/S - 21/May/11 with Alan Mountford, Wayne

hotfeet - Lead O/S - 21/May/11 with Ant, Wayne

waynem1985 - 2nd O/S - 21/May/11 with Antony Davies, Alan Mountford

JamieSparkes - 2nd O/S - 18/May/11 with Nick

Nick1812P - Lead O/S - 18/May/11 with Jamie

Hidden - Lead - 05/May/11

will randall - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/11 with sarah

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Apr/11

Bargate_Champ - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11

RFWilkie - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/11 with Mark

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead - 07/Mar/11

Will Hunt - Lead O/S - 12/Feb/11 with Ben Finley

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Feb/11

Mowglee - 2nd O/S - 12/Feb/11 with Tom Nichols

Brown - Solo O/S - 29/Jan/11 with Solo

Aaron Hauptmann - Lead O/S - 29/Jan/11 with Mungo

Cornish Cream - 2011

John Roberts (JR) - Lead - 2011

patsaunders - 2nd - 2011

nic42 - Lead O/S - 14/Nov/10 with dru

Lumbering Oaf - 2nd rpt - 06/Nov/10 with James Hoyes

Very good. Quite delicate and a bit pumpy.
James Oswald - 2nd O/S - 06/Nov/10 with Mark Rankine

mark20 - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/10

Hoyes - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/10 with Matt B

Nice climbing. One insecure feeling move above adequate gear low down. The traverse is brilliant fun.
lrandall - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/10 with Andy C

Hidden - Lead β - 30/Oct/10

Nice. Move up as high as poss before stepping left to ledge
Batt - Lead O/S - 30/Oct/10 with Matt Box

Nice route. Crux for me was getting established under the roof. Worth a star or two
Lumbering Oaf - 2nd O/S - 30/Oct/10 with Rach Batt

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead - 17/Oct/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Sep/10

Hidden - 25/Aug/10

holters - Lead - 23/Aug/10

One of my earliest HVS routes (1970). Wonder what gear we used?
Chris Craggs - 2nd - 22/Aug/10 with Colin Binks

bailed off this as found it awkward, reachy, strenuous and not enjoyable climbing
pebbles - 2nd dnf - 22/Aug/10 with fireman ian, guido

dan gibson - Solo rpt - 03/Aug/10

Hidden - Solo O/S - 29/Jul/10

Jonathan Hall - 2nd - 25/Jul/10 with Rob Middleton

Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/10 with Paul PCC

Podling - Lead - 22/Jul/10

ollieben - Lead dnf - 10/Jul/10 with harry henson

hazza - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/10

Adrian Daniels - 2nd - 02/Jul/10 with Steve Webster

hobblingfool - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/10

SteveMyatt - Lead dog - 20/Jun/10 with Mark Fairbank

Thought this was v.hard at the grade. Fell on the traverse taking abit of a swing. Decided not to try again!
markfairbank - Lead dnf - 19/Jun/10 with SteveyM

A brilliant start which saw me pull off the move of the weekend with a cracking heel hook - reachey they say! However, the hand traverse proved too much for my weary arms and I came off and was most peeved. A great route once I got back on and one that I intend to complete next time!
KateBolton - 2nd dog - 13/Jun/10 with Tom Boeckx

Piers Harley - Lead dnf - 05/Jun/10 with Jeremy Windsor

Piers Harley - 2nd - 05/Jun/10 with Jeremy Windsor

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/10

JohnHutch - Lead dog - 28/May/10 with L

Ketu - Lead O/S - 23/May/10 with Pete H

Hidden - Solo O/S - 08/May/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/10

Seymore Butt - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2010

Hidden - 2nd - 31/Oct/09

Great route, nice moves upto and under the roof. Thought 5b in BMC guide was fair. Another Stanage unsung gem!
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/09 with Sari Nevala

mike_clayton - 2nd rpt - 17/Oct/09 with paul cubbins

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Oct/09

cliffy - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/09 with Pilar Martinez

PilarMartinez - 2nd dog - 19/Sep/09 with Ian Clifford

Hidden - Solo - 31/Aug/09

Ant Man Bee - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/09 with Dan Aresti

Duncan Skelton - Lead β - 15/Aug/09 with Jason Parker

craig d - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/09 with penny longstaff

charlesmfrench - 2nd O/S - 05/Jul/09 with Anette

Hidden - Solo O/S - 24/Jun/09

gregoritos - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/09 with max

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/09

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - 2nd rpt - 31/May/09 with Iain Mount

Alan James - UKC and UKH - Solo - 30/May/09

mark4344 - 2nd - 09/May/09 with Michel

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/May/09

Hidden - Lead - 25/Apr/09

Adam Booth - 2nd O/S - 22/Apr/09 with Mike Whiteside

Easier than I remember, possibly because I traversed lower ?
Chris the Tall - Lead rpt - 21/Apr/09 with Simon Shaw

rd2904 - Lead - 14/Apr/09 with Darren Southcott

Hidden - Lead - 14/Apr/09

PenJD - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/09 with Heather Swift

d_meacher - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/09 with Harry Andrews

grumpyoldjanner - 2nd O/S - 15/Mar/09 with d_meacher

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/09

Adam1973 - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/09 with Alex

galpinos - Lead rpt - 21/Feb/09 with Ben

Nicos - Lead O/S - 11/Dec/08 with john crook

bridget143 - 2nd O/S - 06/Dec/08 with Jack Symmons

Dan 85 - Lead O/S - 26/Oct/08 with John Rous

LakesWinter - 2nd - 12/Oct/08 with gustav

Gustav - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/08 with Matt G

deacondeacon - Lead - 27/Sep/08

Si dH - 2nd O/S - 21/Sep/08 with Neil Furniss

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Aug/08

Shauna - Lead rpt - 22/Aug/08 with Steve

LoopyLou - Lead - Aug/08 with Helen Lear

Shauna - 2nd O/S - 21/Jul/08 with Steve

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Jul/08

Andrew Sloan - Lead O/S - 25/May/08 with Steve Grove

Guy Wilson - Lead O/S - 21/May/08 with Gavin Moy

Eccentric - 2nd O/S - 10/May/08 with Mark Walter

Mark Walter - Lead O/S - 10/May/08 with Olly Birrell

darren1 - 10/May/08

Paulww - Lead - 26/Apr/08

Chris wilson - 2nd - 26/Apr/08 with Paul

Creep_pea - Lead O/S - 09/Feb/08 with Terry Jim & Tom

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/08

jamesturnbull - Lead - 2008

Jim Walton - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - 2008

feilx - Solo O/S - 21/Oct/07

Nice route, did the roof no problems (apparently under here is the crux), but then messed up the final move! One for the lead wishlist of the future
williap - 2nd - 06/Oct/07 with The Bull

Climbed the start of this route, finished direct up the top of crossover
C@rwyn - TR O/S - 09/Sep/07 with Phil

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/07

cem - Lead rpt - 12/Aug/07 with David T

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 22/Jul/07

Duncan Skelton - 2nd - 19/May/07 with Paul O'Toole

Apharri - Lead - Apr/07 with Andre Hedger

MeMeMe - 2nd - 18/Feb/07 with Andy

chrisclimber_1986 - Lead O/S - 02/Feb/07 with William Kelsall

Hidden - 2nd - Feb/07

Hidden - 2007

Pete Horn - 2nd - 2007 with Graham

Duncan I - 2007

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - Oct/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/06

Stig - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/06 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo O/S - 06/Aug/06

jonlord - Lead O/S - Aug/06

colin milton - Lead - 18/Jul/06 with rodger bramham

Hidden - Lead - 05/May/06

shaun walby - 2nd O/S - 04/May/06

ArnaudG - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Dec/05

shark - Solo O/S - 13/Oct/05

baldcoder - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/05 with Little Old Lady

cem - 2nd O/S - 14/Aug/05 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - Lead - 27/Jul/05

ChrisBrooke - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/05 with John Inkpen

ChrisJD - 2nd - 15/May/05 with Mike

Hidden - Lead - 15/May/05

LankyPaddy - 2nd O/S - 23/Apr/05 with Alistair Ross

SteveM - Lead - 10/Apr/05 with Keith

Stone Muppet - 2005

r0b - 2nd - 13/Nov/04 with Andy Smith

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Oct/04

Pete Nugent - Lead - 19/Sep/04 with Tony Mercer

jonnyboy - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/04 with Daniel Armitage

mr wright followed me up with budweiser in hand!!
leon - Lead O/S - Aug/04 with Andy Wright

chris sm - Lead O/S - Aug/04 with Pippa Froggatt

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/04

Carl Smethurst - Lead dog - 06/Jun/04 with Dave Pemberton

Hidden - Lead - 25/Apr/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2004

furry - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/03 with Phil B

Hidden - Solo O/S - 23/Jun/03

John Marsland - Lead - 19/Apr/03 with Pete Theobald

Ropeboy - Lead - 12/Apr/03

cornishben - Lead O/S - Jan/03

Phil West - 2nd β - 13/Jul/02 with Chris Tan

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Jul/02

Hidden - 2002

Hidden - Lead - 06/May/01

phardman - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/00 with Teresa

Hidden - Lead - 20/Aug/00

Hidden - Lead - 19/Mar/00

dan gibson - 2000

Boy - 2000

BlueJohn - 2nd - 13/Jun/99 with Dieago

Simon Pearce - 1999

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Aug/98

Chris the Tall - Lead O/S - Jun/98 with Bill G

Hidden - Lead - 22/Mar/98

martroberts - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/97

Reds - 2nd O/S - 30/May/97 with Sezer

Podling - 2nd - Mar/96

rurp - 1996

Daniel Wrightson - Lead O/S - Oct/95 with Olivia Horner

Hidden - Lead - 02/Jul/95

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - Mar/95 with Paul Tanton

bobboulderer - 2nd β - Feb/95 with Chris Jackson Jones

nai - Lead - 1995

Adam Greenwood - Lead O/S - 1995 with Pete Jeffery

Gordon Stainforth - 2nd - 29/Jun/91 with Bill Wintrip

Roget - Solo O/S - 23/Jun/91

Marti999 - Lead - 1990

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 18/Jan/89 with Dave Forster

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Jan/89

BRUCESTRAC - 1988 with Chris Cracknell,Various

Hidden - 09/May/87

GordonHart - Solo O/S - 1985

Mark Kemball - Solo - 23/Oct/82

also soloed in Jun 89
stp - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/82

Dave Musgrove - 05/Apr/80 with Kim Greenald

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/77

Hidden - Lead - 16/Oct/76

rogerskews - 1973 with Dane Atkins

mikej - 2nd - 15/Oct/67 with Ian Clayton

mikej - 2nd - 01/May/66 with Mike Byles

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
the power, Hidden, Steve Waters, Mynydd, mullermn, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Albie, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Pete E

Voting
Total votes cast 209
hard E10 of 71
E10 of 71
easy E11 of 71
hard HVS11 of 71
HVS53 of 71
easy HVS4 of 71
hard VS2 of 71
VS0 of 71
easy VS0 of 71
hard 5b0 of 70
5b0 of 70
easy 5b18 of 70
hard 5a37 of 70
5a14 of 70
easy 5a0 of 70
hard 4c1 of 70
4c0 of 70
easy 4c0 of 70
3 Stars8 of 68
2 Stars53 of 68
1 Star7 of 68
0 Stars0 of 68
Bag of .....0 of 68
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Style of ascent

Soloed16 of 301 (5.3%)
Lead165 of 301 (54.8%)
Followed93 of 301 (30.9%)
Toproped1 of 301 (0.3%)
Unknown26 of 301 (8.6%)

'Climbed'116 of 301 (38.5%)
clean O/S146 of 301 (48.5%)
clean β5 of 301 (1.7%)
clean rpt17 of 301 (5.6%)
dogged9 of 301 (3.0%)
dnf8 of 301 (2.7%)