Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Climb a tricky thin crack to a rest at a flake below the roof. Traverse away right and finish up the side-wall. © Rockfax
FA. Joe Brown early 1950s.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Brown & Whillans Stanage , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Plantation , Severe Stanage , Stanage HVS Challenge , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 2023
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| MGough | 19 Apr, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Quite the matched crimp at the start of the traverse. Very committing, results may vary, some then drop low and can stretch for holds, alternatively continue up and become a crack gremlin with some hand jams you can't see because the overhang will be pushing your head down. There's a 'comfortable' rest for squatting overhang gremlins like me. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Quite the matched crimp at the start of the traverse. Very committing, results may vary, some then drop low and can stretch for holds, alternatively continue up and become a crack gremlin with some hand jams you can't see because the overhang will be pushing your head down. There's a 'comfortable' rest for squatting overhang gremlins like me. |
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| leon | 15 May, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: the rest is good and rock fax's description well confused me!!! the moves out are reachy (apparently -i was ok but my second couldn't make the move). a quality route that ends very fast. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: the rest is good and rock fax's description well confused me!!! the moves out are reachy (apparently -i was ok but my second couldn't make the move). a quality route that ends very fast. |
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| ericinbristol | 6 Jul, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: A lovely route, over too quickly, perfectly protectable. The 'awkward thin crack' the guidebook refers to isn't awkward at all - if you sort your feet out, it produces a lovely move. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A lovely route, over too quickly, perfectly protectable. The 'awkward thin crack' the guidebook refers to isn't awkward at all - if you sort your feet out, it produces a lovely move. |
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| Paz | 30 Sep, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: A Joe Brown route for those who don't normally like them. Watch the rope drag. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A Joe Brown route for those who don't normally like them. Watch the rope drag. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Alcove Crack
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(New Mills Torrs)