Rockfax Description
Climb a tricky thin crack to a rest at a flake below the roof. Traverse away right and finish up the side-wall. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown early 1950s 1952

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+.

Hidden 01/Nov TR O/S
Climbster 17/Oct Lead O/S
with Vick
luke glaister 11/Oct Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Sep 2nd O/S
andyman666999 19/Sep Lead O/S

Nice route.

with Phardy
danm 10/Sep Lead

Bold but easy up onto the ledge and gear. Great techy moves out right using some positive crimps with smears for feet, feels easier if you stay low before moving up for the obvious good hold. Balancy rockover around the arete with an easy finish.

with Dan Arkle
NickJH 15/Aug Lead rpt
with P Stridgen
Montecore 06/Aug 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Jul 2nd
tallginge 23/Jun Lead O/S
with ralph
Palmer 07/Jun Lead
bullwinkle 07/Jun 2nd rpt
with Chris
lost.arrow 23/May Lead
with Stu Sherwood
spenser 10/May Lead O/S

Made the error of wearing a helmet for this one, made getting established on the traverse pretty difficult as there isn't a great deal of space between the foot holds and the roof! Coming around the arete felt harder than anything on Tower Face direct which I had climbed earlier in the day!

with Jo Trendell
scottcoates 04/May Lead O/S
with Will
mattleepianist ?/May Lead O/S
Chris M 24/Apr AltLd
islandlynx 18/Apr Lead O/S
theomoore 17/Apr Solo O/S

got scared but pressed on.

Hidden 14/Apr 2nd
Hidden 22/Mar Solo O/S
Tom Keaveny 18/Jan Lead O/S
with Coel
Canyak ??/2015 -
knighty 09/Nov/14 Lead O/S

I found this climb easier than I was expecting to. Fantastic moves.

with Dan Roberts
Binder 18/Oct/14 Lead dog

Came off just before the traverse. Annoying though quite strenuous.

with Dave M
the power 12/Oct/14 2nd rpt
pebbles 12/Oct/14 Lead

right bugger to reach the crimps in the corner but eventuallt managed it. bomber gear all the way so happy as larry.

with steve jenkins
Hidden 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby 27/Sep/14 2nd rpt
with Pauline & Andy, Helen
Mowglee 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Ali
Hidden 27/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 31/Aug/14 2nd
rurp 26/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Nice challenging route

with bill farmer
ashtond6 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Not 5a

ashtond6 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Not 5a

alp79 24/Aug/14 2nd dnf

Couldn't do the move up to the jug so couldn't get on to the traverse.

RichardLeggett 23/Aug/14 TR dog

Tough first 2/3. Reachy.

Hidden 27/Jul/14 Lead
sjbrook 05/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with PCC, Tim
charley 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Nicer & tricker then it looks...

with Ange, Kev
Tithe Technique 01/Jun/14 2nd dog
valentinesbabe 01/Jun/14 TR dog

Third up. Gutted not to get this clean as had worked the moves out but just slipped off the crimps as I went to move across under the roof.

gavinpeach 26/May/14 Lead O/S

Nice climb. Quite tricky stepping out on to the traverse; certainly an interesting sequence.

with Andy
andy.smythe 26/May/14 2nd
GazzerM54 17/May/14 Lead
with Ronnie Wriggs
Radical-G 06/May/14 2nd β
dr_botnik 28/Apr/14 2nd O/S
the power 28/Apr/14 Lead rpt
with rob
paul79 27/Apr/14 Lead
Batt 27/Apr/14 2nd rpt
admackie 14/Apr/14 -
the power 14/Apr/14 2nd rpt
ralphio 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Didn't find any of the individual moves too hard but the route as a whole was pretty strenuous. There's gear where its needed.

with Nik
Hidden 10/Apr/14 Lead O/S
WillDoyle 24/Mar/14 2nd
Goodstuff 24/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Good route, spoilt by strong winds- the gusts seemed to read my mind, picking up whenever I was about to commit to a move.

Cake 09/Mar/14 2nd O/S
the power 04/Feb/14 Lead O/S


with ken
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
Hidden 30/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Nov/13 Lead O/S
apw 05/Oct/13 Lead
with Jim Slater
leon 28/Sep/13 Lead rpt

I said to fab it must have been 10 years (looks like 9) since I was last on this route & that mr wright had been boozing (and hence fell off) before seconding me.

cameron_hall 08/Sep/13 Lead dnf

Couldn't convince myself to try and move up to the huge flake.

leeoftroy ?/Sep/13 Lead dnf

tired and psyched out after climbing tower crack. Gave up and climbed left and up before the crux move. Slightly annoyed with myself!

Hidden 16/Aug/13 Lead O/S
pete1993 19/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Shaun, Dawn, Ben
benkelsey 19/Jun/13 Lead O/S

to finish. cool for grit.

with Dawn, Pete Briggs
Dawn_K_B 19/Jun/13 2nd
Reedymc 16/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Tony Holdsworth 16/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Tom Reed
David_Gledson 05/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Alan
Alex Thompson 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Took a moment to commit to the crux move, nice.

BenedictIEP 01/Jun/13 2nd dog
crispycodd 06/May/13 2nd O/S

Dave went up left to get under the roof. I went up right, which I think was easier. But Dave hadn't put in any gear under the roof except on the far right, so felt a bit like a lead!

Dptidman 06/May/13 Lead O/S

Great moves from the rest under the roof

natalio 20/Apr/13 Lead dog

Great climb, and a great challenge. Had to rest when getting under the overhang due to wrong moves. Very enjoyable and happy, even though I rested/ had to downclimb -in a non elegant way- a bit. But enjoyed it a lot. My first HVS.

with Alex S
Hidden 20/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead
pelvoux 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Tricky traverse that needs commitment as there is no way back

with Paul M
PLM ??/2013 -
tomwheeler 21/Oct/12 Lead
andysroom 21/Oct/12 Lead dog
with Lizzie
i.fish2000 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Cathleen
Hidden 14/Oct/12 Lead dnf
onlyfoddington 06/Oct/12 2nd O/S

Found the first section easier than anticipated. The converse being true for the rest of the climb.

with James H
spragglerocks 06/Oct/12 Lead rpt
with Phil Shaw
Kayan 06/Oct/12 Lead O/S
towdman 15/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Julesthe1st 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Richard Morgan
torsok 09/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Juian
djones66 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Packs a lot into a short space, in best gritstone style. For me, felt hard for 5a. Traverse seemed okay - hardest bit is starting it from the ledge & flake.

with Stve mc D
Nickster 21/Jul/12 Lead
Pilch 11/Jul/12 2nd dog
Sebastien Gastaud 18/Jun/12 2nd O/S
tigertim 18/Jun/12 Lead
David Kay 23/May/12 Lead O/S
Hoyes 23/May/12 2nd rpt
with David K
Steve Waters, Mynydd 20/May/12 Lead

A cracking climb. After trying a few permutations at the crux, I cracked it by putting my left foot high in the crack, laybacking the flake then putting my right foot onto the ledge behind my left leg. Mike was expecting me to plunge off in a death spiral but it worked well. I took the high road on the traverse starting on a pair of small crimps. The final section was a joyful romp.

mtempest 20/May/12 2nd
kirsten 12/May/12 2nd

absolutely lovely, once i'd figured out the move on the ledge and the move back off it. glad I didn't give up!

with john
caradoc 12/May/12 Lead O/S

Quite easy compared to other HVSs at Stanage.

with john b
Andy Hardy 12/May/12 Lead O/S
John Nuttall 12/May/12 Lead
with Kirsten
gb05 06/May/12 Lead O/S
phardman 05/May/12 2nd rpt
Hidden 01/Apr/12 2nd
Fragmod 01/Apr/12 Lead
Fragmod 25/Mar/12 2nd
Hidden 21/Mar/12 2nd
tsjx 18/Mar/12 Lead
with John Mc, Bruce
Dave Rumney 11/Mar/12 2nd
with Sean Roberts
melonmike 05/Mar/12 Lead O/S

First trad route for a long while. Commitment and confidence were necessary. Psyched.

with Josh
freemanTom 26/Feb/12 Lead O/S

Well chuffed with this for first Trad route of 2012. Excellent Route.

with Jon Proudfoot
Hidden 26/Feb/12 2nd
Hidden ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
keith leonard ??/2012 -
Hidden 18/Nov/11 2nd O/S
tompilgrem 12/Nov/11 2nd O/S
with Dad
bobpilgrem 12/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Bob/Tom
Hidden 02/Nov/11 Solo dnf
mikeshewring 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Tobias at Home 15/Oct/11 -
with SteveM
SteveM 15/Oct/11 2nd
with Tobs
odox 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Oct/11 2nd
Hidden 15/Oct/11 2nd
pearson9596 28/Sep/11 Lead β
msoldn 25/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Excitig, due to slightly greasy holds on the jams below the roof.

with Pete Millner
buxtoncoffeelover 16/Sep/11 Lead
Nigel Bond 31/Aug/11 Lead
with Bern Hardman
tgeh 17/Aug/11 Lead O/S

no way hvs more like vs

with dan geh
Dan Geh 17/Aug/11 2nd O/S

very easy for the grade

Hidden 09/Aug/11 Lead
SteWatkins ?/Aug/11 -
Jim Slater 12/Jul/11 2nd rpt
max_chan 12/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with James PCC, Jim Slater
boulderholder 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Seemed initially tough for the grade, however every move has a reasonable rest point and turned out to be a great climb with memorable moves.

dj_brigham05 26/Jun/11 Solo O/S
mikehenesy 11/Jun/11 2nd

Very enjoyable, nice one Tim.

with Tim Reynolds
timreynolds 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
eduardo 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Really nice route, crux was getting off the first little ledge up to the crack to the left of the roof, nice move to the roof, getting into traverse was awkward as I was hunched up, actual traverse and top was fine.

with Roger F
JRae 27/May/11 Lead
spragglerocks 21/May/11 Lead O/S
Lumbering Oaf 21/May/11 2nd rpt
antdav 21/May/11 2nd O/S
hotfeet 21/May/11 Lead O/S
with Ant, Wayne
waynem1985 21/May/11 2nd O/S
JamieSparkes 18/May/11 2nd O/S
with Nick
Nick1812P 18/May/11 Lead O/S
with Jamie
Neil R 05/May/11 Lead
will randall 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with sarah
Hidden 17/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 10/Apr/11 2nd
Bargate_Champ 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Rob Davies ?/Apr/11 Lead
with Phil Ashton
RFWilkie 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Mark
Hidden 07/Mar/11 2nd
Hidden 07/Mar/11 Lead
Will Hunt 12/Feb/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Feb/11 2nd O/S
Mowglee 12/Feb/11 2nd O/S
with Tom Nichols
Brown 29/Jan/11 Solo O/S
with Solo
Aaron Hauptmann 29/Jan/11 Lead O/S
with Mungo
Cornish Cream ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
patsaunders ??/2011 2nd
nic42 14/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with dru
Lumbering Oaf 06/Nov/10 2nd rpt
James Oswald 06/Nov/10 2nd O/S

Very good. Quite delicate and a bit pumpy.

mark20 06/Nov/10 Lead O/S
Hoyes 06/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Matt B
lrandall 06/Nov/10 Lead O/S

Nice climbing. One insecure feeling move above adequate gear low down. The traverse is brilliant fun.

with Andy C
Hidden 30/Oct/10 Lead β
Batt 30/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Nice. Move up as high as poss before stepping left to ledge

Lumbering Oaf 30/Oct/10 2nd O/S

Nice route. Crux for me was getting established under the roof. Worth a star or two

Hidden 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Oct/10 Lead
Hidden 16/Oct/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Aug/10 -
holters 23/Aug/10 Lead
Chris Craggs 22/Aug/10 2nd

One of my earliest HVS routes (1970). Wonder what gear we used?

with Colin Binks
pebbles 22/Aug/10 2nd dnf

bailed off this as found it awkward, reachy, strenuous and not enjoyable climbing

with fireman ian, guido
dan gibson 03/Aug/10 Solo rpt
Hidden 29/Jul/10 Solo O/S
Jonathan Hall 25/Jul/10 2nd
Jim Slater 22/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Paul PCC
Podling 22/Jul/10 Lead
ollieben 10/Jul/10 Lead dnf
with harry henson
hazza 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Adrian Daniels 02/Jul/10 2nd
with Steve Webster
hobblingfool 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
SteveMyatt 20/Jun/10 Lead dog
with Mark Fairbank
markfairbank 19/Jun/10 Lead dnf

Thought this was v.hard at the grade. Fell on the traverse taking abit of a swing. Decided not to try again!

with SteveyM
KateBolton 13/Jun/10 2nd dog

A brilliant start which saw me pull off the move of the weekend with a cracking heel hook - reachey they say! However, the hand traverse proved too much for my weary arms and I came off and was most peeved. A great route once I got back on and one that I intend to complete next time!

Piers Harley 05/Jun/10 Lead dnf
with Jeremy Windsor
Piers Harley 05/Jun/10 2nd
with Jeremy Windsor
Hidden 03/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/May/10 Lead dog
Ketu 23/May/10 Lead O/S
with Pete H
Hidden 08/May/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Oct/09 2nd
Graeme Hammond 31/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Great route, nice moves upto and under the roof. Thought 5b in BMC guide was fair. Another Stanage unsung gem!

mike_clayton 17/Oct/09 2nd rpt
Hidden 04/Oct/09 2nd
cliffy 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S
PilarMartinez 19/Sep/09 2nd dog
with Ian Clifford
Hidden 31/Aug/09 Solo
Hidden 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Duncan Skelton 15/Aug/09 Lead β
with Jason Parker
craig d 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with penny longstaff
charlesmfrench 05/Jul/09 2nd O/S
with Anette
Hidden 24/Jun/09 Solo O/S
gregoritos 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with max
Hidden 01/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 31/May/09 2nd rpt
Alan James - UKC and UKH 30/May/09 Solo
mark4344 09/May/09 2nd
with Michel
Hidden 09/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/09 Lead
Adam Booth 22/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Mike Whiteside
Chris the Tall 21/Apr/09 Lead rpt

Easier than I remember, possibly because I traversed lower ?

rd2904 14/Apr/09 Lead
with Darren Southcott
Hidden 14/Apr/09 Lead
PenJD 29/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Heather Swift
d_meacher 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
grumpyoldjanner 15/Mar/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Adam1973 01/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Alex
galpinos 21/Feb/09 Lead rpt
with Ben
Nicos 11/Dec/08 Lead O/S
with john crook
bridget143 06/Dec/08 2nd O/S
with Jack Symmons
Dan 85 26/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with John Rous
LakesWinter 12/Oct/08 2nd
with gustav
Gustav 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Matt G
deacondeacon 27/Sep/08 Lead
Si dH 21/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Neil Furniss
Hidden 24/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Shauna 22/Aug/08 Lead rpt
with Steve
LoopyLou ?/Aug/08 Lead
with Helen Lear
Shauna 21/Jul/08 2nd O/S
with Steve
Hidden 21/Jul/08 2nd O/S
Andrew Sloan 25/May/08 Lead O/S
with Steve Grove
Guy Wilson 21/May/08 Lead O/S
with Gavin Moy
Eccentric 10/May/08 2nd O/S
Mark Walter 10/May/08 Lead O/S
darren1 10/May/08 -
Paulww 26/Apr/08 Lead
Hidden 26/Apr/08 2nd
Creep_pea 09/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Terry Jim & Tom
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/08 Lead
jamesturnbull ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
bullybones ??/2008 -
feilx 21/Oct/07 Solo O/S
williap 06/Oct/07 2nd

Nice route, did the roof no problems (apparently under here is the crux), but then messed up the final move! One for the lead wishlist of the future

with The Bull
C@rwyn 09/Sep/07 TR O/S

Climbed the start of this route, finished direct up the top of crossover

with Phil
Hidden 26/Aug/07 Lead O/S
cem 12/Aug/07 Lead rpt
with David T
Hidden 22/Jul/07 2nd rpt
Duncan Skelton 19/May/07 2nd
with Paul O'Toole
Apharri ?/Apr/07 Lead
with Andre Hedger
MeMeMe 18/Feb/07 2nd
with Andy
chrisclimber_1986 02/Feb/07 Lead O/S
with William Kelsall
Hidden ?/Feb/07 2nd
Hidden ??/2007 -
Pete Horn ??/2007 2nd
with Graham
Duncan I ??/2007 -
dannyboy83 ?/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Stig 30/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 06/Aug/06 Solo O/S
jonlord ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
colin milton 18/Jul/06 Lead
Hidden 05/May/06 Lead
shaun walby 04/May/06 2nd O/S
ArnaudG ??/2006 -
Hidden 12/Dec/05 Lead O/S
shark 13/Oct/05 Solo O/S
baldcoder 24/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Little Old Lady
cem 14/Aug/05 2nd
Hidden 27/Jul/05 Lead
ChrisBrooke 17/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with John Inkpen
Hidden 15/May/05 2nd
Hidden 15/May/05 Lead
LankyPaddy 23/Apr/05 2nd O/S
with Alistair Ross
SteveM 10/Apr/05 Lead
with Keith
Stone Muppet ??/2005 -
r0b 13/Nov/04 2nd
with Andy Smith
Hidden 09/Oct/04 Lead O/S
nige pacer 03/Oct/04 Lead O/S
Pete Nugent 19/Sep/04 Lead
with Tony Mercer
jonnyboy 01/Sep/04 Lead O/S
leon ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S

mr wright followed me up with budweiser in hand!!

with Andy Wright
chris sm ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
Hidden 18/Jul/04 Lead O/S
Carl Smethurst 06/Jun/04 Lead dog
with Dave Pemberton
Hidden 25/Apr/04 Lead
Hidden ??/2004 Lead O/S
furry 28/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Phil B
Hidden 23/Jun/03 Solo O/S
John Marsland 19/Apr/03 Lead
with Pete Theobald
Ropeboy 12/Apr/03 Lead
cornishben ?/Jan/03 Lead O/S
Phil West 13/Jul/02 2nd β
with Chris Tan
Hidden 06/Jul/02 2nd
Hidden ??/2002 -
Hidden 06/May/01 Lead
phardman 03/Sep/00 Lead O/S
with Teresa
Hidden 20/Aug/00 Lead
Hidden 19/Mar/00 Lead
dan gibson ??/2000 -
Boy ??/2000 -
BlueJohn 13/Jun/99 2nd
with Dieago
Simon Pearce ??/1999 -
Hidden 29/Aug/98 2nd
Chris the Tall ?/Jun/98 Lead O/S
with Bill G
Hidden 22/Mar/98 Lead
martroberts 07/Sep/97 Lead O/S
Reds 30/May/97 2nd O/S
with Sezer
Podling ?/Mar/96 2nd
Daniel Wrightson ?/Oct/95 Lead O/S
with Olivia Horner
Hidden 02/Jul/95 Lead
Rich Kirby ?/Mar/95 Lead O/S
bobboulderer ?/Feb/95 2nd β
with Chris Jackson Jones
nai ??/1995 Lead
Adam Greenwood ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Pete Jeffery
Gordon Stainforth 29/Jun/91 2nd
with Bill Wintrip
Roget 23/Jun/91 Solo O/S
Marti999 ??/1990 Lead
goi.ashmore 18/Jan/89 Lead O/S
with Dave Forster
Hidden 18/Jan/89 2nd
steve prior ?/Nov/88 Lead
with Rob W
BRUCESTRAC ??/1988 -
with Chris Cracknell,Various
Hidden 09/May/87 -
GordonHart ??/1985 Solo O/S
Rob Davies 11/Aug/84 Lead
Mark Kemball 23/Oct/82 Solo
stp 04/Jul/82 Lead O/S

also soloed in Jun 89

Dave Musgrove 05/Apr/80 -
with Kim Greenald
Hidden 15/Jul/77 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Oct/76 Lead
rogerskews ??/1973 -
with Dane Atkins
mikej 15/Oct/67 2nd
with Ian Clayton
mikej 04/May/67 Lead
with Geoff Williams
mikej 01/May/66 2nd
with Mike Byles
Hidden 08/May/65 TR
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, the power, Hidden, Steve Waters, Mynydd, mullermn, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Albie, Hidden, Hidden, Pete E
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 87
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 86
Votes cast 79
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set