Derbyshire > New Mills Torrs >
 
Alcove Crack*** HVS 5a

Adjacent Climbs
<< The Stork
 
Sunny Day >>
[Knee jam in Alcove crack, 4 kb]20m. The dramatic fissure splitting the back wall of the shady recess of the Alcove is a steep and well-protected tussle. © ROCKFAX
FA. Dennis Carr 1977

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors).

Photo: Knee jam in Alcove crack © pauldr
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 277 logbooks, and on 17 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/14

Hidden - Lead dog - 16/Apr/14

David Kay - 2nd - 08/Apr/14 with Moritz Lesserman

Hidden - Lead rpt - 08/Apr/14

James Oakes - 2nd rpt - 05/Apr/14 with Tim Newton

tim newton - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/14 with james oakes

Too much too soon, logging as a motivation to get up before seasons end.
Pepper - TR dnf - 01/Apr/14

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Mar/14

the power - Lead rpt - 02/Mar/14 with deacon

MichaelGallimore - Lead O/S - 02/Feb/14 with Andrew Erskine

Should have warmed up first
alp79 - 2nd dog - 25/Jan/14 with Jonny Ashton

ashtond6 - Lead - 25/Jan/14

First clean HVS lead. Had to place gear, climb back down to the ledge a couple of times at the start but once I'd started managed it in one go.
ben.phillips - Lead O/S - 08/Jan/14 with Rob Kempster, Jared Kitchen

leeoftroy - Lead O/S - Oct/13

masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/13 with Mitch

sazmaz - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/13 with Frank Ramsden

MaccMark - 2nd - 03/Sep/13 with James Williams

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Sep/13

Hidden - Lead - 04/Aug/13

ClimbMad - 2nd dnf - 04/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead - 03/Aug/13

Still getting pumped !
Stoff - Lead dog - 30/Jul/13 with gpcomps

Just to see if I could do it clean if not having to place gear
Stoff - TR rpt - 30/Jul/13 with gpcomps

So close to doing clean, next time...
gpcomps - Lead dog - 30/Jul/13 with Chris Bridgland

David Kay - 2nd rpt - 28/Jul/13 with Jules Lane

Great climb, just wish I was a bit stronger so as lead in a one-er without the rest.
Julian Lane - Lead dog - 28/Jul/13

TP - TR - 28/Jul/13

jamesgodwin64 - Lead rpt - 26/Jun/13 with John Copper

Much calmer than the first time but my gear was spaced, not the best style. The route is still a tough HVS!
AlexanderRyanBanks - Lead rpt - 18/Jun/13 with Gaz

Rich Kirby - 2nd O/S - 15/Jun/13 with Robin

MischaHY - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13

sparkass - Lead O/S - 18/May/13 with Mike Shorter

Jake - 2nd O/S - 12/May/13

Matt_C9716 - Lead - 12/May/13

Lovely route - hard on the arms through the overhanging lower moves, but knee bar provided a lovely rest.
Chalky Cat - 2nd O/S - 09/May/13 with Dom

Fabulous climb, really loved it. Totally missed the knee bar. Deceptively overhanging.
Peakology - Lead O/S - 09/May/13 with Chalkycat

Hidden - 2nd - 08/May/13

Matt Rowat - Lead O/S - 08/May/13 with Ross

tatz45 - Lead O/S - 06/May/13 with Katy Vose

Hard start to get you pumped, but after that it could be VS
Cake - Lead O/S - 05/May/13 with John Cooper

Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 03/May/13 with Local Andy

Derek Furze - 02/May/13

greglad - Lead RP - May/13

samsimpson - 2nd rpt - 30/Apr/13 with Alan Barnes, Tom Doldon

jon_gill1 - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/13 with chris Lyness

tarn - 2nd O/S - 25/Apr/13 with Alan Caley

Did not disappoint !
Steve Waters, Mynydd - Lead - 16/Apr/13 with Mike Tempest

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Apr/13

sputnik - Lead rpt - 16/Apr/13

sputnik - Lead rpt - 09/Apr/13 with Mrs Z

Alex@home - Lead rpt - 08/Apr/13 with leon

the power - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/13 with deacon

Frank the Husky - 2013

angus - Lead O/S - 08/Dec/12 with rich sawyer

Finished Nick's lead
Will Sheaff - Lead dog - 09/Nov/12 with Nick R

phil64 - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/12 with matt dean

RichyBOYY - Lead - 20/Oct/12 with Andy Pearson

sputnik - TR rpt - 29/Sep/12

sputnik - TR rpt - 29/Sep/12

akhughes - 2nd - 10/Sep/12 with Pete Harris

stuart34 - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/12 with rob dyer

Rob84 - 2nd rpt - 01/Sep/12 with Stu Inchley

Scared me for six but well worth it.
AlexanderRyanBanks - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/12 with Gaz

gw3285 - Lead - 23/Aug/12

Fragmod - Lead - 04/Aug/12

tsl42 - 2nd dog - 04/Aug/12 with Gaz Hooson

Done with both Deacon and Dave. Cool moves and nice steep climbing
James Oswald - 2nd rpt - 01/Aug/12 with deacon

vassy05 - Aug/12

deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/12

sputnik - Lead rpt - 24/Jul/12

Jake Young - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/12 with Jem

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead dnf - 07/Jul/12

sputnik - TR - 05/Jul/12

sputnik - TR - 05/Jul/12

sputnik - TR - 05/Jul/12

sputnik - TR - 05/Jul/12

sputnik - TR - 05/Jul/12

sputnik - TR - 05/Jul/12

bwestwood - Lead - 03/Jul/12

Rob84 - 2nd rpt - 30/Jun/12 with Alys Rook, Dave Ripley

dave657 - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/12 with Alys, Rob Dyer

chrisbussell - Lead - 26/Jun/12 with Tim O'Neill

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/12

Darron - 17/Jun/12

Just Another Dave - Lead O/S - 25/May/12 with sam kendrick

nice hvs
Tom Doldon - 2nd O/S - 17/May/12 with John Doldon

Steep, but the good holds keep on coming, making it straightforward enough.
gavinpeach - Lead O/S - 13/May/12 with Liam Talbot

Nice climb. My first use of a hand jam, fell the first time I pulled on it but managed to make it stick on the second attempt.
tolly_60 - 2nd dog - 13/May/12 with Gavin Peach

Well protected, steep but interesting climbing. Stayed dry despite heavy showers.
aipattison - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/12 with George Evans

georgeevans88 - 2nd O/S - 22/Apr/12 with Alex Pattison

Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 21/Apr/12 with john Bramwell

Took a whipper from the last serious move and ended up at the bottom of the crag! lowered down and yoyo'd but due to placing another piece to stop the same fall got too pumped and then rested on it.. annoyingly i THEN found the good crimp and the kneebar!! will lead clean next time, excellent route
OliBangbala - Lead dog - 16/Apr/12

Hidden - 2nd β - 16/Apr/12

Excellent route. deserves its three stars. bottom bulge pumpy and awkward to lead. Upper section a delight. Very well protected throughout. Good ab point off top,
stratandrew - Lead RP - 15/Apr/12 with Jim Symon

sputnik - Lead rpt - 05/Apr/12 with Mrs Z

sputnik - Lead rpt - 05/Apr/12 with Mrs Z

David Kay - 2nd - 27/Mar/12 with Simon Ward

JonF - Lead dog - 24/Mar/12

Climbed in the dark!
mike.rigby - Lead dog - 24/Mar/12 with Andy Erskine

andy_e - 2nd rpt - 24/Mar/12

samsimpson - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/12 with Scott

DaveFidler - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/12

pie_eater_pete - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/12 with Niall

jshields - Lead - 11/Mar/12 with Dave Sargent, Paul Tretheway

davewsargent - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/12 with jon shields

sputnik - Lead rpt - 19/Feb/12

James Oakes - Lead O/S - 15/Jan/12 with Ike Walker

sputnik - TR rpt - 15/Jan/12

PAJames - 2012

sputnik - Lead rpt - 19/Nov/11 with Mrs Z

sputnik - Lead rpt - 19/Nov/11 with Mrs Z

sputnik - TR rpt - 17/Nov/11 with Mrs Z

sputnik - TR rpt - 17/Nov/11 with Mrs Z

sputnik - TR rpt - 17/Nov/11 with Mrs Z

sputnik - TR rpt - 17/Nov/11 with Mrs Z

sputnik - TR rpt - 17/Nov/11 with Mrs Z

c00kie - TR - 17/Nov/11 with Gavin

v good all the things I like
Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 10/Nov/11 with James blake

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/11

Alex@home - 2nd rpt - 06/Nov/11 with Tony Moody

Nicola - 2nd O/S - 23/Oct/11 with Lee

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Oct/11

Nice route...Will lead next time I'm there.
Mike Hegarty - 2nd - 30/Sep/11 with Dave

David Kay - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/11 with Moritz Lesserman, Pete Dalzell

Viki - 2nd dog - 18/Sep/11 with Dave Latimer

Dave Latimer - Lead - 18/Sep/11

Dave Foster - 2nd rpt - 04/Sep/11 with Si 2

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/11

dylon4 - TR - 24/Aug/11

Really good and steep. Great gear, really good route.
James Oswald - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/11 with Mark Rankine

Looks a bit naff for a 3 star route but is excellent extremely well protected steep jug pulling :)
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/11 with Becky E

Seconded, definite future lead once I grow bigger balls for HVS.
Jonny Nick - 2nd O/S - 05/Aug/11 with jamesgodwin64

This route is definitely worth it. Excellent holds, bomber gear and a cheeky knee bar half way up will see you top out on a good quality route at it's grade. Enjoy.
sputnik - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/11 with Mrs Z

c00kie - 2nd - 27/Jul/11 with Leander

PeteH - 2nd O/S - 04/Jul/11 with John Cooper

John Cooper - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/11

Fairly stout.
Ian Broome - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11 with Pete, Simon

petellis - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/11 with Broomy, Sloth

Hidden - Lead dog - 25/Jun/11

tmawer - Lead rpt - 25/Jun/11 with andrea

JRae - Lead - 18/Jun/11 with Pete Graham

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Jun/11

Brilliant! So much fun I did it twice! Good rests if you can find them.
BeccaSnowden - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/11 with Tom

thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/11 with Becca

Almost clean...
gpcomps - 2nd dog - 09/Jun/11 with Chris Bridgland

Pumpy
The Blue Bucket - Lead - 24/May/11

d_evo20 - Lead O/S - 23/May/11 with James Brownhill

Pretty sustained but well protected
gpcomps - Lead dog - 12/May/11 with Chris Bridgland

Just got too pumped before the rest. Somehow harder than it looks despite all the gear and no real hard move. Found myself just getting more and more pumped. Lovely route 3*.
Stoff - Lead dog - 12/May/11 with gpcomps

gregoritos - Lead rpt - 07/May/11

mark20 - 2nd rpt - 04/May/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/May/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/May/11

Hidden - Lead - May/11

Excellent - steep, juggy, tons of gear and a great line.
Rob84 - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/11 with Rob Adie

Nick Rundall - Lead rpt - 05/Apr/11 with Adam Youd

Steep but all there
harold walmsley - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/11 with Colin Struthers

psychicbread - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/11 with James

andy_e - Lead dog - 14/Mar/11

eazyclimbing - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/11 with cliff

cliffrad - 2nd O/S - 01/Mar/11 with eazy

Hidden - Lead rpt - 23/Feb/11

Mr Sparkle - 2nd O/S - 22/Jan/11 with Mike Hayes

wolverine - Lead O/S - 22/Jan/11 with Matt Sparkes

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2011

saul cashmore - 2011

saul cashmore - 2011

Hidden - 2011

jacobjacob - Lead O/S - 26/Nov/10

Top rope soloed twice. Nice route
andy_e - TR rpt - 30/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/10

Shauna - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/10 with Jules

JulesV - 2nd - 26/Sep/10 with Shauna Cunningham

colin milton - Lead - 28/Aug/10 with Sari Nevala

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Aug/10

gregoritos - Solo β - 27/Aug/10

Tried to lead, but after doing the first half I was pumped big style and the rest looked hard. I lowered off and Dave finished off the route. I followed.
BennoC - 2nd - 16/Aug/10 with Dave

Fell off on lead in may 2009, went fine second time round with Alaina
Laurence Everitt - Lead RP - 11/Aug/10 with Alaina Beacall, Tom Green

Hannes B - Solo - 06/Aug/10 with Rik

Jonathan Hall - Lead - 31/Jul/10 with Mark Williams

disturbed_one51 - 2nd - 31/Jul/10 with Wee man

Steep ledge shuffling failing to avoid the pigeon poo.
Dave Foster - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/10 with Andy

crag_hopper_Jay - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/10

samsimpson - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/10 with JNewbiggin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/10

enjoyable, but hard work.
JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/10 with Nick

Nick1812P - 2nd O/S - 10/Jun/10 with Jamie

simonward - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/10

Fantastic! My first HVS lead-yippee! Excellent climbing. Very well protected throughout. Did rest on gear but happy that I've broke the mental block of HVS's. Would love to do again in one.
andrea83 - Lead dog - 13/May/10 with Saffra, Dan

Awesome climb. Top roped previously and came back to lead
R8JimBob88 - Lead rpt - 09/May/10 with James

Super annoyed, got massively pumped and rested on the two smallest holds on the route, little did i know huge jug only 1ft above me. Rested on gear and then finished
joe.91 - Lead - 08/May/10 with Olli Crudge, Thomas Reid

Hidden - 2nd - 08/May/10

Awesome climb. Will be back to lead it next time.
R8JimBob88 - 2nd O/S - 03/May/10 with James

huge holds in great places good and lots of safe gear with a slight over hang but personally just a smaller easier mathers crack but none the less just as good for those not at that grade yet :)
jamesgodwin64 - Lead O/S - 03/May/10 with R8JimBob88

Nick Rundall - Lead rpt - 02/May/10 with Jon Taylor

mark20 - Lead O/S - 01/May/10

Chi Cheng - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/10 with Emily Bond

Em66 - 2nd - 26/Apr/10 with Chi

pumpy.
lewisg - TR O/S - 11/Apr/10 with Nat

mikecollins - 2nd O/S - 26/Mar/10 with stg

andy_e - 2nd dog - 07/Mar/10

JoshJLewis - Lead dog - 07/Mar/10

Great climb but I wouldn't have been able to lead it!!! Slowly getting there though!
Leo Woodhead - 2nd - 07/Mar/10

buxtoncoffeelover - 2nd - 2010

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Nov/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Oct/09

david morse - 2nd O/S - 03/Oct/09 with Lambros

tlmarjot - Lead O/S - 03/Oct/09 with Dave Morse

one rest, two moves later found a two hands off knee bar!
Steeve - Lead dog - Sep/09

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Aug/09

Did this climb after a spell away from climbing. Found it very pumpy and it just wouldn't let up. Not my bag, but superb in many other ways.
Jon Dittman - AltLd - 12/Aug/09

Nice climbing although gear isnt quite as good as i would like it to be in parts, crack just seem to flare a little making it hard to get nuts and wires to seat well. sustained but not cruxy climbing. Can't remember belayers name, possibly Catherine?
Dan Lane - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/09 with Martin Kocsis

Kuarlos - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/09 with My bro

didn't realise there was no way down... had to traverse the ivy (E13 at least!!!) then mantle over the wall onto some guys drive (V23) as he arrived home from work! fortunately he was a climber tho :)
willoates - Solo O/S - Jul/09

pauldr - Solo O/S - 26/Jun/09 with some unknown people

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/May/09

A Downing - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/09 with Damian Lawson, Tom Parott

Brown - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/09 with Henry

Daymo - 2nd O/S - 08/Mar/09 with A Downing

tomparrott - 2nd - 08/Mar/09 with A Downing, Daymo

Ian Parnell - 2nd O/S - 02/Mar/09 with Jon Winter

tommakin - Lead - Mar/09 with James Maxwell

themax16 - 2nd O/S - Mar/09 with Tom Makin

joe bailey - Lead O/S - 14/Nov/08 with Dave Roddis

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/08

loved this route just hard enough without making me want to cry!
chriswh84 - Lead - 28/Jun/08 with danny and mark

metal arms - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/08

Pete Horn - Lead β - 01/Jun/08 with Gerard

Loved it. Quite pumpy on the 1st half and fairly sustained to the top out. Scraped my knuckles a little due to some desperate jamming!
mark2572 - 2nd O/S - 01/Mar/08 with Danny

Climbing at my limit here.I'll leave Electric Circus for another day.
dan1stdan - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/08 with Mark

clintos - Lead - Mar/08 with jonny green

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/Jan/08

Hidden - Lead dnf - 2008

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

stuc - Lead O/S - 2008

Hidden - 2nd - 2008

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 14/Dec/07

arrived here in rain without guidebook after retreiting from froggatt thought this one looked about vs and bottom 34 was dry so had a go at leading it only got about 34 of the way up got pumped out and took a big whiper pulled the ropes through and dave lead after the rest seconded clean exellent route and crag will definatly visit again
martin48 - 2nd - 24/Nov/07 with dave

BallsofBritishSteel - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/07 with Charles

cem - 2nd rpt - 18/Aug/07 with Rob Truckle

Pythonist - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/07 with Hazel

dpmUK - TR dog - 24/May/07

good steep fun. probably nade more exciting by still being pumped after seconding elecrtric circus a few minutes before
Alex@home - Lead O/S - 24/May/07 with nick from bmc

This is a great route!
LakesWinter - 2nd - 12/May/07 with Gustav and Chris

psychicbread - 2nd O/S - 11/May/07 with Max

Gustav - 2nd O/S - 11/May/07 with Matt G and Chris

Hidden - Lead - 2007

Hidden - TR - 22/Oct/06

cem - Lead rpt - 22/Oct/06 with Miles Butteriss

gregoritos - Lead O/S - Sep/06

JdotP - 2nd dog - 12/May/06 with Stuart Bury

Hidden - Lead - 23/Apr/06

Hidden - TR - 09/Apr/06

cem - Lead rpt - 06/Nov/05 with James Gill, Graham Dolman

Ben1983 - Lead O/S - Aug/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/May/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/May/05

FrankW - 2nd O/S - 28/Mar/04 with Joe

JohnHutch - 2nd - 15/Mar/04 with L

Got pumped out of my box
Stig - Lead O/S - 08/Nov/03 with Jonathan Teale

Mark A Humphries - Lead β - 17/Aug/03 with Fiend

cem - 2nd O/S - 20/Oct/02 with Graham Dolman

Trashed myself on this one
adamwesthead - Lead dog - 31/Aug/01 with Taylor

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Apr/01

LittleJoe - 2nd O/S - 2001

Le Chevalier Mal Fet - Lead - Jul/97 with Richard Bower

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/97

JonBray - Lead O/S - 1997

Stoney Boy - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/96 with Rick Scott

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Feb/92

Roget - Solo O/S - 18/Nov/90

David Smith - Sep/90

Nick Rundall - Lead O/S - 1990

Hidden - Lead - 09/Oct/77

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Oct/77

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
steveth, alp79, DanBothwell, Richard Alderton, Stefan Trebicki, Garson, mmmhumous, Hidden, Steve Waters, Mynydd, iceaxejuggler, Dizz, Hidden, alimckay, Hidden, djdf, Hidden, The Pylon King

Voting
Total votes cast 215
hard E10 of 76
E10 of 76
easy E12 of 76
hard HVS18 of 76
HVS51 of 76
easy HVS5 of 76
hard VS0 of 76
VS0 of 76
easy VS0 of 76
hard 5b0 of 71
5b0 of 71
easy 5b1 of 71
hard 5a5 of 71
5a58 of 71
easy 5a7 of 71
hard 4c0 of 71
4c0 of 71
easy 4c0 of 71
3 Stars56 of 68
2 Stars8 of 68
1 Star4 of 68
0 Stars0 of 68
Bag of .....0 of 68
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed5 of 277 (1.8%)
Lead160 of 277 (57.8%)
Followed78 of 277 (28.2%)
Toproped24 of 277 (8.7%)
Alt Leads1 of 277 (0.4%)
Unknown9 of 277 (3.2%)

'Climbed'76 of 277 (27.4%)
clean O/S122 of 277 (44.0%)
clean β4 of 277 (1.4%)
clean rpt44 of 277 (15.9%)
clean RP3 of 277 (1.1%)
dogged24 of 277 (8.7%)
dnf4 of 277 (1.4%)