12m.

Rockfax Description
Start as for Verandah Buttress to the shelf then continue direct via a short crack and a final l-o-o-o-o-o-ng stretch. © Rockfax

FA. Peter Biven 1954

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage for Crack Apprentices, 'Soft' Peak HVSs..


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 18/Sep 2nd RP
nick ferro 13/Aug 2nd rpt
with Oli Birkill
Cheeks 24/Jul Lead
with Mark Murphy
FlavioL1989 19/Jun Lead O/S
rajeshwarbisht 19/Jun Lead dnf
with Flavio
Hidden 30/May -
Andy Moles 22/Apr Lead O/S
with Simon
BarnDawg 17/Apr Lead O/S

it only took me 30 tries to get the first move

with Chris
Hidden 25/Mar 2nd
shaunhumphreys 25/Mar Lead O/S
pete1993 25/Mar 2nd O/S
with Shaun
Lukem6 13/Mar Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2016 -
martinbettridge06 10/Oct/15 Lead
Ian Saxton 10/Oct/15 2nd
with martin
greenclimb 04/Oct/15 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Oct/15 2nd
Hidden 05/Sep/15 Lead
Hidden 05/Sep/15 2nd
Robaduck 29/Aug/15 Lead
ben.phillips 29/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Pati, Rob Kempster
Alan James - UKC and UKH 23/Aug/15 2nd
garywong 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Exhausting! Spent ages working out the start and the rest didn't feel easy either, though it does have good gear.

Hidden 16/Aug/15 2nd
RobScarisbrick 15/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Dave Rumney 09/Aug/15 Lead
with Tanya Milner
mapperley samurai 02/Aug/15 2nd
with Matt Jaggers
Hidden 15/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/May/15 Lead O/S
andy.smythe 23/May/15 2nd
Dan Vaj 04/May/15 Lead O/S

The start is the crux!

with Jonathon Clark
Hidden 14/Apr/15 -
Hidden ??/2015 2nd β
robgixer ??/2015 -
gazfellows 02/Nov/14 Lead
with Graham
Hidden 05/Oct/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Oct/14 2nd dnf
RichardMc 04/Sep/14 2nd
with Andy Sutton
OffshoreAndy 03/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with ukc richard
tsjx 03/Aug/14 2nd
with John Mc
Angus Taylor 17/Jul/14 2nd RP

first move seemed impossible till we found a little fingertip undercling which simplified it a bit. rest of the climb was nice, if a bit reachy, and slippery in the sunshine.

Hidden 22/Jun/14 Lead
Hardcore Pat 18/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Dr Julie
Gudge 06/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Helen B
helin 06/Jun/14 2nd
with chris
Matt Poole 01/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Thomas Heaton
Hidden 31/May/14 Lead O/S
Bullybones 21/May/14 2nd
with Neil
Hidden 18/May/14 2nd
kp64zl ?/May/14 2nd
with Julian M
admackie 28/Mar/14 Lead
dannyboy83 19/Feb/14 Lead O/S

Ridiculous first move!

Alex Hallam 19/Feb/14 2nd RP

Concur with Dan, I advise some kind of testicle protector and copious stretching beforehand.

Palmer 02/Jan/14 Lead O/S
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
Hidden 01/Dec/13 Lead
Jim Slater 19/Oct/13 2nd O/S
pebbles 29/Sep/13 2nd dog

could not make the final reach to the top and pulled on the rope. even rechy in the middle, top was just a reach too far

with kevin
mark4344 28/Sep/13 2nd
with derek, Matt Payne
Gudge 08/Aug/13 2nd rpt
Coel Hellier 08/Aug/13 Lead
hotfeet 16/Jul/13 2nd dog
with Keith
claregardiner 07/Jul/13 Lead

Getting off the ground was pretty ridiculous. Found the rest of the route quite tough but well protected, probably lots easier when its not 30deg!

rich_hw 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
treg 19/Jun/13 Lead

And I thought getting established on Martello Buttress was silly. Took a few attempts to get onto the shelf (including landing bum first on a rock in the ground; didn't load any gear, can I claim an onsight?). The interest keeps coming higher up, but the difficulties are well protected and a bomber wrist jam allows for a great rest after the first crux. Glad I'm tall for the final long reach. Quality route, just a little short.

with Patrick
SPD224 16/Jun/13 2nd
with Martin Smith
Hidden 09/Jun/13 2nd
hipyhop 06/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Lazytraveller 06/Jun/13 2nd O/S
SFrancis 26/May/13 TR O/S
alice fuller ?/May/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/13 2nd
nick ferro 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/13 Lead O/S
stuart34 13/Apr/13 Lead O/S

brilliant, too short though

Hidden 13/Apr/13 2nd
chinkus303 06/Apr/13 2nd O/S
tompilgrem 18/Nov/12 Lead O/S
with Dad
bobpilgrem 18/Nov/12 2nd O/S

Good lead by Tom

with Tom
deacondeacon 15/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Kirill 07/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Ramblin dave 07/Oct/12 2nd dog

Pulled on gear on the start and pumped out and had to rest before the finish.

with Paul B, Kiril
Paul Baxter 07/Oct/12 2nd
with Kirill
eduardo 06/Oct/12 Lead dog

Neeed a rest to commit to the top. Annoying really..

with James Rose
Steve Perry 04/Sep/12 Lead

Very powerful, I got pumped halfway.

mol 01/Sep/12 2nd
with Jesse
Gudge ?/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Pete Staves
Wayne S 16/Aug/12 2nd
Hidden 07/Aug/12 Lead O/S
RichyBOYY 10/Jun/12 Lead
Hidden 10/Jun/12 2nd
R0bbie 14/Apr/12 2nd
with Taba
Nigel Bond 29/Mar/12 2nd
with Bern Hardman
tallsop 20/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Sweet

with terry
Milne 20/Mar/12 2nd O/S

bit reachy at the top, great climb though.

Steve Waters, Mynydd 14/Mar/12 2nd

Arms too pumped after The Link and so handed the lead to Richard. Excellent little route with long reach to the top.

with Richard Waltham
Wilbur 20/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Certainly packs it in, 5b start, hard 5b middle I thought, pumpy and reachy top-out. quality little HVS..

with Rick
dickie01 19/Nov/11 2nd O/S
with Julian King
Pete Nugent 18/Nov/11 2nd

Dixie led. Myself & JC stuggled to get off the ground. Eventually, gave me a leg up to get established on VB - frustrating because I have soloed VB in the past. Good well protected climbing on Buitchers - must come back to lead once I have got my hip sorted!

jcurley 18/Nov/11 Lead
Falko 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Al W.
Hidden 06/Nov/11 2nd dog
Hidden 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Oct/11 Lead
Sowerby Sam 25/Oct/11 2nd dog

Fell on the last couple of moves where hands have to be turned over. Not sure why I fell.

Hidden 25/Oct/11 Lead O/S
ian d f 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Interesting start

theotherpetehill 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
mes32 22/Oct/11 2nd

Hilarious start! Refused to use a boost.

Short&Savage 22/Oct/11 -
Hidden 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
mark4344 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Andreas
Hidden 15/Oct/11 2nd O/S
buxtoncoffeelover ?/Aug/11 2nd
Andy Fielding 31/Jul/11 TR
SteveM 30/Jun/11 Lead
with Kat
kitkat78 30/Jun/11 2nd
with SteveM
thekendo 19/Jun/11 2nd dog
Hidden 19/Jun/11 2nd β
john lynch 19/May/11 Lead O/S
with Tom
busdriver 08/May/11 2nd
llamaglama 09/Apr/11 2nd dog
with Nick, Jam
Nick1812P 09/Apr/11 2nd β
with Jamie
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead β
Andy Peak 1 23/Jan/11 Lead
with Atila
thekendo 23/Jan/11 2nd rpt
uphillnow ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
Hidden ?/Dec/10 -
gnc760 20/Nov/10 2nd O/S
with Mark Duggan
Graeme Hammond 06/Nov/10 Lead O/S

nice moves, (especially the cool undercut to reach the top) after the 'start'

with Becky E
thekendo 31/Oct/10 Lead β
thekendo 30/Oct/10 Lead dnf

got to the last move then backed off

Jay C 25/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with Sam W
samwillo 25/Oct/10 Lead
with Jay
Hidden 24/Oct/10 2nd O/S
b.hayley 24/Oct/10 Lead rpt
with alfredo
Hidden 24/Oct/10 2nd O/S
James_D 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Tim
Chi Cheng 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Super reachy, as i'm a short ass (5'4").

Rachel Slater 10/Oct/10 2nd O/S
kermit_uk 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Steve Woolass
Stig 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Chris
chrishedgehog 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with James
dan gibson 03/Aug/10 Solo rpt
fatbuoybazza 01/Aug/10 Lead β
with foreman, liv_the_div
Fran S8 ?/Jul/10 Lead
Hidden 12/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/10 2nd β
drcorbasisgod 09/May/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/May/10 Lead O/S
Dogmusher 09/May/10 Lead
with chris parson
Hidden 17/Apr/10 2nd RP
paul79 17/Apr/10 Lead
gidmord 10/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Ben Harper 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/10 2nd
fatbuoybazza 20/Feb/10 Lead dog

reversed from the crux halfway up, down to ledge, then had a rest on the rope, got thru the rest fine on 2nd go, good route..

Gazzawatson ??/2010 Lead
with Oscar Lopez & Sam Reed
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Sean Kelly ??/2010 -
Hidden 17/Oct/09 2nd O/S
Aufton 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S
The Bad Cough 12/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Christian Minett
b.hayley 05/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with alfredo
Alfredo 05/Sep/09 Lead
with Ben H
frost 19/Aug/09 Solo O/S

back roped with a grigri

leon 16/Aug/09 Lead

moving onto the route proper i spent far too much time wondering about my hands and not paying enough attention to possible foot holds that might become invisible as i moved up. a valuable lesson

with Steven Davidson
Rachel S 18/Jul/09 2nd
Hidden 18/Jul/09 TR RP
mel holmes 12/May/09 2nd
with Tony Reed
jameshall 01/May/09 2nd O/S
with Tom Blond
Alan James - UKC and UKH 19/Apr/09 Solo
Brown 19/Mar/09 Solo O/S
with Solo
Ram MkiV 06/Mar/09 Solo O/S
with lee, al, guy
koopa ??/2009 -
BRUCESTRAC ??/2009 -
keith leonard ??/2009 -
Sal37 ??/2009 Lead O/S
Si dH 18/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Neil Furniss
Hidden 18/Oct/08 2nd rpt
troutbeck 15/Oct/08 2nd
jwpil 11/Oct/08 2nd dog
with Neil
Hidden 11/Oct/08 Lead O/S
GrahamPlant 10/Sep/08 Lead
with Chris Vanderhoven
Hidden 17/Aug/08 Lead
Hidden 09/Jun/08 Lead O/S
TonyF 19/May/08 Lead O/S
with David
porridgefan 19/Apr/08 2nd β

Bottom of the route was moist...

with Heddwyn Fletcher
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/08 Lead
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Mick B 12/Jun/07 2nd rpt
with Rick Asher
TimPerkin 03/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Sue Hewitt
Hidden 24/Mar/07 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2007 2nd
dan gibson 24/Oct/06 2nd O/S
with martina
Nicos 29/Sep/06 Solo O/S
with solo
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 01/Jul/06 Solo O/S
Different Steve 03/Jun/06 Lead O/S

good route - that top move takes some working out...

Hidden ??/2006 -
ArnaudG ??/2006 -
Tobias at Home ??/2006 -
chris sm ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
Hidden 15/May/05 Lead
Hidden 23/Apr/05 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Mar/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/May/04 Lead
SMc ?/May/04 Lead O/S
with Anne
cem 21/Sep/03 Lead O/S
with Liam Mark, Rod Strachan
Carl Smethurst 31/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with Ian Pickles
beermonkey ?/Aug/03 2nd
with Mr Binks
Hidden 12/Jul/03 Lead O/S
John Marsland 05/May/02 Lead
with Darrell Small, Allen Newby
Jon Greengrass ??/2002 -
Ropeboy 16/Apr/00 Lead
rc ??/2000 Lead
tlr ??/2000 Solo
Hidden ??/2000 -
Rock Fairy ??/2000 2nd
Mark Davies ??/2000 Lead O/S
Boy ??/2000 -
cragspud ??/1999 Lead O/S
CrashMat Rob 30/May/98 Lead O/S
with Martin Smith, Nicky
Podling 21/Sep/97 Lead
goi.ashmore 28/Sep/96 Lead O/S
with James Tracey
Strong Steve 07/Sep/96 Lead O/S
jim_randell 17/Jun/95 TR O/S
Roget 05/Oct/91 Solo O/S
steve taylor ?/Jul/91 Solo
with jon jones
steve prior ?/Aug/88 Lead O/S
with Chris S
Rob Davies 03/Jul/88 Lead
mike bridges 13/Jul/86 2nd O/S
with Neil Gregory
Dave Musgrove 11/Jun/86 -
Hidden 22/Aug/85 Lead
Tom V ??/1984 -
stp 07/Aug/83 Solo O/S

Awkward start and tricky and reachy finish. Seemed like HVS and certainly considerably harder it's neighbour, Greengrocer Wall to the L.

stp 07/Aug/83 Solo O/S

Awkward start. Hard and reachy finish. Good.

Hidden 19/Mar/83 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
AlexCib, KamilJ, Hidden, Adamski1986, SJPowderham1, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Palmer, steveth
Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 56
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 54
Votes cast 55
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set