There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Powerful moves access the prominent niche at 4m (overhead gear). Continue up the flake of 'the flange' then the steep slab on rounded and sometimes green holds to a final short crack. © Rockfax
FA. Peter Biven 1956.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade , 'Soft' Peak HVSs. , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Jus | 20 Jan, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Bit necky/ slopey at the top if soloing | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Bit necky/ slopey at the top if soloing |
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Duz Walker | 13 Sep, 2007 |
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βeta: Pinged my only nut hanging lifting my foot hanging off the ledge. I can obviously only finger jam in desperation. Underrated route I reckon, fair at the grade. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Pinged my only nut hanging lifting my foot hanging off the ledge. I can obviously only finger jam in desperation. Underrated route I reckon, fair at the grade. |
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sheffieldchris | 30 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: thought i was cruising on the start untill you try and get onto the small ledge above the overhang. Was forced to wear a helmet by partner on this climb and as my foot slipped and the rope flipped me head first and a nut pinged i was mighty glad i had, just stopped short of the deck but did bash the hell out of myself | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: thought i was cruising on the start untill you try and get onto the small ledge above the overhang. Was forced to wear a helmet by partner on this climb and as my foot slipped and the rope flipped me head first and a nut pinged i was mighty glad i had, just stopped short of the deck but did bash the hell out of myself |
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Neil Morbey | 9 Nov, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: A tad artificial but a good start and good sloper finish with some longish reaches. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: A tad artificial but a good start and good sloper finish with some longish reaches. |
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Stanage Popular)