UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

16m.

Rockfax Description
Start at a vertical crack that ends at 6m. Climb this then traverse left to the base of the continuation crack which is entered by harder moves. Follow it more easily to finish up a right-facing groove. The direct start is a boldish 5a problem. © Rockfax

FA. Herbert Hartley 1929.

Ticklists

Top 23 UKC Climbed Climbs , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , 14 In A Day , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Eastern Grit Jamming , 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide) , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion , King of VDiff , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Stanage Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Popular , Consolidation and developmental path to VS , Severe Stanage , The Gritlist , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , Top 20 UKC Gritstone Climbs , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , Seb's Recommendations , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Stanage Ticklist , Pixies Lightweight Bowline CC - VS Challenge - Stanage , Top 25 routes , Stanage 1956

Feedback

User Date Notes
milanboez 29 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant
Andy Hobson 14 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: VS 4c - just. The move into the crack is tricky but well protected; the crux seemed to be the taverse. Not at all sustained really as footholds are invariably good and the angle is pretty laid back. An ideal first VS.
Show beta
βeta: VS 4c - just. The move into the crack is tricky but well protected; the crux seemed to be the taverse. Not at all sustained really as footholds are invariably good and the angle is pretty laid back. An ideal first VS.
Simon Caldwell 27 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Well I'm just pushing VS and it wasn't a 3 star route for me. Just one move of 4c, the rest was disappointingly easy.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Well I'm just pushing VS and it wasn't a 3 star route for me. Just one move of 4c, the rest was disappointingly easy.
Monk 13 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: I didn't think this was worth 3 stars. It's good but not as good as many other routes nearby. he ledge and easy top spoil it a bit.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I didn't think this was worth 3 stars. It's good but not as good as many other routes nearby. he ledge and easy top spoil it a bit.
gav p 15 Aug, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: A good route with nice moves, well worth doing. Found it quite strenuous placing gear in lower section, eases significantly after that.
Show beta
βeta: A good route with nice moves, well worth doing. Found it quite strenuous placing gear in lower section, eases significantly after that.

Logged Ascents

5393 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage Popular

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 241 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 386
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 361
Votes cast 369
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Quien Sabe?

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Bamford Edge)

Loading Notifications...